Ian, I found this interesting. I had to read it twice (probably just me), but when it clicked, it clicked. Their progress with the Nero di Troia grape - from severe to more gentle - is to be commended. Perhaps more so for how they went about it. I hope you find it as interesting as I did. cheers
from Sebastiano "Nero di Troia, also known as Uva di Troia, ranks third among native grape varieties in Puglia in quantity of hectares planted (ca 1,800 ha), coming after Negroamaro and Primitivo. It is also the third native red variety to achieve deeper appreciation, and better attention in the marketplace, by being produced as a 100% varietal.
Negroamaro, grown in the provinces of Brindisi and Lecce, is the predominant grape in all of the denomination wines of the Salentine peninsula, while Primitivo characterises the wines in the province of Taranto. Nero di Troia, on the other hand, is centred on the province of Foggia and the northern Bari area. Puglia can thus boast a trinity of red grape varieties that together offer a rich patrimony of wine diversity and complexity.
Origins
The origins of Nero di Troia are not completely clear, the few scientific facts outweighed by not a few myths. The name itself provides the first evidence, or the first false step. The name is supposedly connected to the band of exiles, led by the Greek hero Diomedes, who fled the destruction of Troy, as recounted in Homer, and disembarked on the bank of the river Ofanto, on the Tavoliere plain.
Up to this point, the legend, like all legends, contains a grain of truth. The theory of an Adriatic origin for the variety does seem to be true, as shown by research by ampelographical experts of the calibre of Attilio Scienza of the University of Milano. Haplotype frequency analysis, in fact, has demonstrated that the Nero di Troia is genetically close to a group of varieties belonging to the Adriatic viticultural region. Even the name may derive from an Albanian site, the city of Cruja, which is translated locally as “Troia.”
Characteristics
From the point of view of its growth traits (phenology), Nero di Troia can be classified as late developing, especially regarding fruit maturation (mid- to late-October). In this, it is different from the other two Puglia red varieties, Negroamaro and in particular Primitivo, both decidedly early ripeners (Primitivo in late August and Negroamaro in mid-September).
The Nero di Troia displays marked diversity of ampelographical traits, due in particular to unwise methods of propagation relying on ungrafted stock to boost yields. Two different cultivars can be distinguished in the vineyards, although for lack of proper research they cannot properly be defined as separate clones: the ruvese presents a tight-packed cluster with large berries; it is the most widely-grown and was preferred in the past for its high yield per hectare. The second type, the canosina, has a smaller berry (ad acino piccolo) and a more open cluster; perhaps the more ancient of the two, its lighter yield has made it less widely planted today. But research and hopes for high-quality wine production are focusing on this latter cultivar, and Rivera has been working for many years with Prof. Attilio Scienza on a programme to rehabilitate this biotype, with its impressive qualities. A vineyard currently amounting to 6,4 hectares has been planted to it.
Vinified, Nero di Troia shows lively colour; an elegant, crisp nose typically hinting of violets; a palate that while not high in acidity is rich in polyphenols, in particular with tannins that can be quite pronounced if the fruit is not fully ripe. The small-berried biotype has a high ratio of skin to pulp and a more pronounced fleshiness, characteristics contributing to a later harvest date and better overall ripeness. The wine thus has a darker colour and very smooth tannins.
Production
Optimal conditions are rarely encountered in the average vineyard, and thus the resultant astringency of the Nero di Troia tannins is traditionally softened by blending with other grapes. This practice is recognized in all of the wine denominations of north-central Puglia that utilize Nero di Troia. Traditional practice in the DOC Castel del Monte utilises Montepulciano to blunt the edge of Nero di Troia, so much so that it was customary to plant in the vineyards one row of Montepulciano for every three of Nero di Troia. Rivera has been producing Il Falcone Castel del Monte Riserva DOC since 1971 -and soon-to-be-released 2011 vintage as DOCG- using this traditional blend profile, which marries increased roundedness and softness to impressive structure and excellent ageing capacity. If a softer, more approachable wine is desired, the proportion of Nero di Troia and Montepulciano is traditionally reversed, emphasising the latter, as Rivera does with Rupìcolo.
Over the last 18-20 years, thanks also to Rivera’s experimentation, monovarietal Nero di Troia wines are being produced that no longer need help from Montepulciano and which can therefore confidently express the characteristics of that variety, resulting in wines of significant complexity and distinctiveness, such as Puer Apuliae, for example, but also wines such as Violante, crisp, refreshing, and aromatic.
The recovery of the Nero di Troia ad acino piccolo and the use of appropriate winemaking practices aimed at optimizing its fruitiness and smoothing its tannins show every sign of being the right direction for the rediscovery of this grape variety."
