TN: Saturday lunch with Eddie

SATURDAY LUNCH WITH EDDIE - Masseria, DC (12/9/2017)

Eddie mentioned that he will be in DC. Drinking with Eddie is always a pleasure as despite drinking better than anyone I know, he is just one of the guys and never takes himself too seriously. I contacted the usual suspects for a leisurely lunch. The theme was Barolo and Burgundy. It was a challenge to find a venue but Pierre came through and Chef Stefanelli at Masseria opened just for us. The chef did an incredible job preparing an eight course meal. The wine service by David and John was perfect.

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Just for us!

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The usual suspects!

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The soldiers!

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John at work.

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Bread service, delicious savory doughnuts.

Champagne

• 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
  Absolutely gorgeous nose displaying subtle yet decadent red fruit with a hint of yellow, red currant, tarte tatin, raspberry water, brioche, honey, cinnamon, honey and cooper. Perfectly harmonious palate, very refined and polished, very fine generous mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long subtle yet decadent red fruit driven finish. The 96 Krug have been drinking incredibly well for the past couple of years, i.e. combining the energy, freshness and generous mousse of the youth with the decadence and sweetness of the mature champagne. (98 pts.)

White Burgundy - Flight 1

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Generous amount of Beluga and Burrata.

• 2001 Henri Boillot Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
  Oxidized, considering the provenance, premoxed. NR (flawed)
• 1993 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
  Absolutely gorgeous nose displaying sweet opulent ripe yellow fruit, peach and lemon curd, lanolin, a hint of petrol, oyster, vanilla, cedar, smoke, light honey and mineral. Excellent concentration, rich and oily yet airy and precise, low acidity which is typical of the vintage, medium mineral and a long rich opulent sweet yellow fruit driven finish. There is a hint of cedar/oak even after twenty some years which is not bothersome. Despite lacking acidity, it remains energetic, pure and precise which is truly remarkable. For my palate, this is richer than the Batard. This is why I love mature white Burgundy. (97 pts.)
• 1993 Domaine Michel Niellon Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
  Another remarkably youthful nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, lemon curd, honey, ginger, spicy spices, vanilla, cedar/oak, smoke and a hint of flint. Beautifully integrated harmonious palate, nicely layered decadent yellow fruit, rich and oily yet pure and precise, medium acidity, good mineral expression and a long sweet yellow fruit and vanilla driven finish with a hint of oak/cedar at the end. For my palate, the Chevalier is even richer. Excellent showing. (96 pts.)

White Burgundy - Flight 2

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A whole lobe of Foie Gras

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Artichoke and Foie Gras soup, incredibly rich and delicious. The 01 Boillot Montrachet adding nice acidity and body.

• 2011 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
  Very pure and precise nose displaying fresh white fruit, pear, white peach, granny smith, lemon, a hint of Coche flint, sesame, cool mountain stream and limestone. Very clean and pure, fresh white fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long seamless fresh white fruit driven finish. This has gained weight compare to the last bottle drunk in January, 2005. This is very pure and energetic. Really delicious. (97 pts.)
• 2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
  As usual, very opulent and exotic nose displaying decadent ripe yellow fruit, yellow peach, peach pie, apricot, cremes brulee, vanilla and light honey. Rich and oily, opulent yellow fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral, and a long rich yellow fruit and honey driven finish. Alan’s first DRC Montrachet and it is quite different than what he expected. Based on my limited experiences, DRC Montrachets always exotic and opulent. Excellent showing and drinking beautifully but not sure how it will age. (97 pts.)

Red Burgundy - Flight 1

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Lobster and tripe cooked in red wine

• 1955 Vandermeulen Clos de Tart - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
  Really opaque color. Noticeable VA and a bit rough. DOA. NR (flawed)
• 1957 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
  Slightly low fill. Shy nose displaying remnant of slightly dry shy red fruit, dry cherry, a hint of raspberry jam, raw button mushroom, sous bois and strong soy. Fully resolved palate, mostly faded red fruit, good acidity and a medium long finish with a hint of dry cherry and strong soy at the end. Past its prime but the faded yet very sweet fruit makes this enjoyable. (91 pts.)

Red Burgundy - Flight 2

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Cestnut Caramelle

• 1966 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
  Very good appearance. Medium expressive earthy nose displaying shy red fruit, dry cherries, strawberry soda, rose, soy, grilled cep and earth. Fully integrated palate, dry cherry and grill cep driven palate impression, slightly lean and angular, medium acidity, strong earthy mineral and a medium long dry cherry and earthy driven finish. Perhaps a bit tired, no great wines, only great bottles. (93 pts.)
• 1969 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
  My bad luck with the 69 La Tache continues. Some think it is corked, musty but perhaps not the cork TCA. Either way, flawed. NR (flawed)
• 1990 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
  As usual very ripe red fruit, cherry pie, blackberry jelly, dark spices, sap and earth. Excellent concentration, packed jammy red and black fruit, good acidity, strong mineral, still noticeable slightly dry tannins and a medium finish. I find it to be too ripe and rustic and still don’t see the future promising. Only time will tell. (92 pts.)

Piedmont - Flight 1 + Burgundy

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Tagliolini

• 1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Much paler than the 64 Gaja barbaresco, shy red fruit, cherry water, dry cherry, roasted chestnut, leather, caramel, rose, a hint of va, madeira and earth. Fully integrated palate, soft and a bit watery, subtle dry red fruit, medium acidity, fully integrated tannins and a medium long subtle red fruit and madeira driven finish with a hint of va at the end. Although there are a few positive TNs, my experiences have been good but not great and I am not a buyer. (92 pts.)
• 1964 Gaja Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
  Expressive nose displaying ripe slightly dry red fruits, dry cherry, fruit cake, anise, grilled meat, rose, leather, tar and earth. Still showing excellent concentration, generous dry cherry and caramel driven palate impression, good acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long deeply toned finish with dry cherry and leather at the end. The nose and palate are generous but not pure and a bit straightforward. I suspect a bit of Barbera. (93 pts.)
• 1969 Faiveley Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
  Stewed red fruit, dry cherry, strawberry, tomato paste, soy, licorice, rose and earth. Fully integrated palate, sweet slightly dry red fruit, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a medium to long stewed red fruit and soy driven finish. Too much soy, past its prime. (92 pts.)

Red Burgundy - Flight 3

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Magret

• 1957 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
  How often do you get to try the 57 Vogue Musigny twice?! Eddie thought the first bottle didn’t show well so he generously opens the second bottle with a better fill. Quite delicate but very complex nose displaying essence of raspberry, light caramel, dry apricot, strong sous bois, a hint of soy, grilled fat and earth. Fully integrated delicate palate, silky, fluid and airy, medium acidity, good earthy mineral and a seamless subtle red fruit and sous bois driven finish that subtly resonates. Fragile yet gorgeous showing. (95 pts.)
• 1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
  Expressive nose displaying ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry a hint of raspberry, mocha, rose, dark spices, liquid smoke and earth. Excellent concentration, packed blackberry and black cherry, chewy yet silky and polished, bright acidity, noticeable but sweet tannins and a long deeply toned roasted black fruit and mocha driven finish. It remains very youthful and structured. Needs another decade or more to reach the youthful peak. (97 pts.)
• 2007 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
  Expressive nose displaying subtle sweet black and a hint of red fruit, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of raspberry jam, Vosne spice, roasted coffee bean, rose, a hint of oak/vanilla and earth. Medium concentration, finely layered subtle black fruit, excellent balance, detail and purity, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a long pure black fruit and mocha driven finish. Clearing reflecting the lighter palate of the 07 vintage and refine yet expressive style of Louis Michel. Drinking beautifully in a youthful way but will improve for another decade, gaining sous bois and decadent red fruit. (96 pts.)

Piedmont - Flight 2

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Lamb with sliced fresh Matsutake

• 1970 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Speciale - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  En magnum with $4.99 price tag. Explosive nose displaying intense dry fruit, dry cherry, fruitcake, licorice strong iron, balsamico and tar, baking spices, molasses and earth. Unbelievable concentration, packed cherry black fruit, unctuous, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and the dark fruit driven finish that never ends. In magnum format, it is incredibly youthful perhaps need another ten years. Unbelievably powerful wine. (97 pts.)
• 1974 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Much paler than the Villero and the Monfortino. Harmonious nose displaying subtle red fruit, strawberry, a hint of cherry, anise, raw button mushroom, light caramel and iron. Very precise and slightly lean, subtle red fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long subtle red fruit driven finish. This is one of the few wines that would have benefited from warmer room temperate. (95 pts.)
• 1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Villero di Castiglione Falletto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Intense iron and crushed stoned driven nose, lean black fruit, a hint of dry cherry, licorice, spearmint, tar, cinnamon and earth. Very focused, linear and precise palate, very finely layered subtle black fruit, silky and polished, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long silky black fruit and licorice driven finish with spearmint at the end. This is all about perfect precision and iron driven mineral. (97 pts.)

Yquem

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Cheese

• 1988 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  Powerful nose displaying ripe tropical fruit, mango, pineapple, apricot, botrytis, lanoline, crème burlee and candied ginger. Incredible concentration, dense and oily yet perfectly precise and weightless, layers upon layers of ripe yellow fruit, bright acidity and a long opulent sweet yellow fruit and ginger driven finish that resonates. This has to be the most concentrated Yquem of the 80s. (98 pts.)

Red Burgundy - Flight 4

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Dead soldiers - left half

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Dead soldiers - right half

• 1993 Fernand Lécheneaut et Fils (Philippe et Vincent) Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
  Hedonistic nose displaying opulent red and fruit, raspberry jelly, fresh blackberry, light caramel, a hint of sous bois, Asian spices, grilled fat and vanilla. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of rich and opulent red and black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, fully integrated tannins and an intense long opulent fruit and Asian spices driven finish. Absolutely beautiful drinking experience. Truly a pleasant surprise. (97 pts.)
• 1990 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
  Significantly fresher and more expressive than the bottle from Sep, 2015. Expressive nose displaying ripe red fruit with a hint of black, raspberry jelly, black cherry, espresso, a hint of sous bois, grilled cep, black truffle, iron and earth. Excellent concentration, packed ripe raspberry and blackberry, good acidity and mineral, still a hint of tannins and a long ripe blackberry and mocha driven finish. This is a ripe, imposing and powerful Beze, not very Rousseau but impressive and enjoyable. (97 pts.)
• 1964 Pio Cesare Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Chef Stefanelli generously served it blind. Orange/amber, mostly faded. My guess is old madeirized Quintarelli Amarone. Madeirized. NR (flawed)
• 1962 Maison Leroy La Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
  Showing a bit more soy than I like, a lot of sous bois, dry cherry, cherry and tree bark. Medium concentration and a bit sharp at the end. Not the best example. (93 pts.)
• 1985 Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
  Medium expressive nose, raspberry jelly, dry orange rind, strong soy, raw button mushroom, root beer and caramel. Fully integrated palate, subtle red fruit and mushroom driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium finish with clippings soy at the end. (93 pts.)

Truly a memorable lunch! My sincere gratitude goes to Chef Stefanelli and the team at Masseria. Come visit again, Eddie!

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Still standing!

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The menu
Posted from CellarTracker

Wow! Phenomenal wines and notes. It’s nice living vicariously through your write-ups, which are noticeably better than Alfert’s.

that is awesome

…oh so was Kevin’s wine event…wow

A great report, Kevin–thanks!

Please tell us you skipped dinner. Thanks for the photos, scrumptious.

Well done !
Btw , never buy Vandermeulen Clos de Tart , they are all bad .

A bit too late, two more to go. The 47 Chateau Margaux can be excellent!

Great set of notes for a proper lunch - thanks for sharing! Monfortino needs so much time - the older the better.

Wow…not sure which I am more jealous of - the food or the wine. Call it a draw. Awesome lunch.

Thanks Kevin. Some seriously good wines there.

Had that '62 Leroy La Romanee a few years ago and it was stunning.

Cheers
Jeremy

No doubt, that Alfert has the palate of a Yak, or worse, a rutting Florida boar.

To heck with the wines, I’m drooling over the foodie pics! I think I gained 5 pounds.

Looks like a great lunch. While I follow Eddie on Instagram, both of you drink very well! Food looks incredible!

Nobody drinks as well as Eddie.

This makes me reevaluate my definition of leisurely lunch. Well done.

Lecheneaut is an under the wire CdlR producer that few know. Jerry Hey was just touting 88 Yquem. I have never liked 90 Vogue Musigny. 62 La Romanee can be better, as you know.

Great notes but the bottles all look like Alsatians and Germans!

As impressive as the wine selection may be, the foods at the meal are mind-blowing!

Truly incredible.

Kevin- great write up and food photos- one of those days where the chef’s food was hitting on all cylinders and the wines,while good/great just weren’t up to food. I can’t recommend Nick’s food highly enough and I’m sure we’ll do it again. Great seeing you and the guys.Sorry we missed Tom.

I’m putting Masseria on the list for my May trip. What’s dinner like if you’re a regular patron and drinking off their list?

The chef is a wine geek. The list is interesting but not cheap so perhaps by the glass may not be a bad option. The corkage is $75 so on the high side. They only serve dinner, you can pick four, five or six courses.