TN: Kelly, Kevin, RJ and Tom's excellent NYC adventure

KELLY, KEVIN, RJ AND TOM’S EXCELLENT NYC ADVENTURE - New York City (12/1/2017-12/3/2017)

Tom suggested a wine and dine trip to NYC a few months ago. Four of us traveled to NYC for a nice weekend trip.
Sparks Steak House
Sparks has a great wine list. After checking in, we dropped by to have to share a nice bottle. The wait staff treated the bottle like a young cab resulting in a lot of sediment floating. Nevertheless, the bottle was very enjoyable, a nice way to start the trip.

2000 Leroy Clos de la Roche

  • 2000 Domaine Leroy Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (12/1/2017)
    Classic concentrated opulent red fruit driven Leroy profile, cherry compote, raspberry tart, cinnamon, sous bois, sweet spices and mineral. Very good concentration, packed opulent red fruit, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium to long opulent red fruit and cinnamon driven finish. Unfortunately, the bottle was shaken by the restaurant staff. The palate shows a hint of metal and remains a bit rough. Nevertheless, this is drinking beautifully in a classic Leroy way. (95 pts.)

Dovetail
This is a calm and romantic setting. The dishes were very good and the wine service was exceptional.

Amuse Bouche

Wagyu

  • 2002 Dom Perignon Champagne Rosé Luminous - France, Champagne (12/1/2017)
    Despite Disco/club look, the nose is really refined and delicate. It reminds RJ, the 02 Dom Ruinart rose he had recently and I agree. It also reminds the 96 Dom Rose. Pale pink and the nose clearly reflects. Delicate nose displaying subtle red fruit and a hint of yellow, raspberry water, rose, cooper, a hint of sugar candy, crushed white pepper, sweet spices and limestone. Beautifully integrated palate, soft and warm, fine slightly shy mousse, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long subtle raspberry and mineral driven finish. This is a beautifully balanced medium body Dom Rose, very subtle and sophisticate but not having the wow factor. Really delicious. I wonder if this was disgorged later than the regular version. (94 pts.)
  • 2001 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (12/1/2017)
    A great example of fully mature Chablis we love. European release with perfect fill. Harmonious mature Chablis nose, ripe yellow fruit, lemon curd, a hint of fresh OJ, white flower, honey, sugar candy, smoke, oyster jus and oyster shell. Very good concentration, beautifully integrated palate, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a seamless long lemon curd and oyster shell driven finish. Drinking beautifully but no need to wait. (96 pts.)
  • 1971 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/1/2017)
    It is fascinating and amusing to compare the color of the 71 Aldo Conterno. Remarkably dark and impenetrable color indicating the possibility of some Barbera. Expressive nose displaying intense slightly dry black fruit, dry cherry, dry fig, fruit cake, licorice, dark caramel, leather and earth. Incredible concentration, intense dry cherry and fig driven palate impression, remains unctuous, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long deeply tone finish with dry fig and leather at the end. This is an impressive big scale wine. Everyone slightly prefers the pure Nebbiolo expression of the 71 Aldo Conterno. Nevertheless, this is an impressive big scale wine that will last for another half century. (95 pts.)
  • 1971 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/1/2017)
    Absolutely gorgeous pure Nebbiolo nose displaying subtle pure red fruit, fresh strawberry, cherry, anise, strong iron and crushed rock. Perfectly harmonious and refined palate, silky and airy, subtle sweet red fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, strong iron/mineral and a seamless long subtle red fruit and iron driven finish. Absolutely gorgeous. (97 pts.)
  • 1974 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/1/2017)
    Exquisite harmonious nose displaying subtle sweet red fruit that Giacosa is known for, fresh strawberry, raspberry, a hint of cherry, anise, spearmint, Asian spices, caramel, porcini and strong iron. Perfectly harmonious Burgundian palate, silky and weightless, medium acidity, strong iron/mineral and a seamless long finish with decadent yet delicate red fruit at the end. With air, it becomes even more expressive. I believe this is the only year that Giacosa made Ginestra. It totally exceeds our expectation. This clearly demonstrates why Bruno Giacosa is one of the greatest wine makers in the world. (98 pts.)
  • 1982 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/1/2017)
    When Tom opened this earlier, he thought that it might be madeirized. Initially subtle red and black fruit, dry cherry, dry fig, a hint of madeira, caramel, iron and mineral. With air, riper and sweeter fruit, leather and tar emerge, also noticeable VA. Good concentration, dry cherry and dry fig driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong iron and a medium long slightly coarse and rustic finish. With air, VA becomes very pronounced. Not a representative bottle but still enjoyable. (91 pts.)
  • 1985 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/1/2017)
    Intense youthful rich nose displaying decadent black fruits, dry cherry, blackberry jam, a hint of dry fig, licorice, caramel, tar, iron, baking spices, balsamico and earthy mineral. Excellent concentration, packed decadent dry cherry and dry fig driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long dry cherry and licorice driven finish. This is a big scale deeply toned wine. Drinking beautifully in a very youthful way but will improve for another decade or two. (95 pts.)
  • 1998 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/1/2017)
    Gorgeous Burgundy nose displaying delicious red fruit, raspberry, strawberry, caramel, rose, black truffle, mushroom, sous bois and earth. Medium concentration, silky palate, perfect amount of acidity, noticeable dry tannins and a medium finish with strong dry tannins at the end. Beautiful nose but the dry tannins are bothersome. (93 pts.)
  • 1937 Château Coutet - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac (12/1/2017)
    Dark ambler with perfect fill level. Intense deeply toned nose displaying sweet dry fruit, dry apricot, dry fig, dark caramel, molasses, honey, baking spices and noticeable VA. Excellent concentration, intense dry fruit driven palate impression, mouth puckering acidity and a long intense dry fruit and VA driven finish. This is drinking like a Madeira. (93 pts.)

Marta
I had the pleasure of meeting Chet whom I have been corresponding over email and social media for the past few years. The pizza was excellent, also the wine service.




  • NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Le Cran - France, Champagne (12/1/2017)
    Medium expressive nose displaying cool red fruit, raspberry water, lemon curd, rose, brioche, honey, white pepper and mineral. Good concentration, medium size mousse, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a medium finish. This gives the impression of Blanc de Noir, solid wine. (92 pts.)
  • 2010 Henri Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (12/1/2017)
    Pop and pour, coiled but beautifully balanced nose displaying lemon curd, vanilla, mint and crushed rock. Perfectly precise and beautifully balanced palate, airy, silky and weightless, noticeable dry extract, bright acidity and a seamless long finish. With air, the nose becomes complex, a hint of pineapple, flint, lanoline and anise develop. This is a very precise and sophisticate Batard that needs time to open up. Decanting may not be a bad idea. (97 pts.)
  • 2007 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune - France, Alsace (12/2/2017)
    Very mineral driven nose displaying meyer lemon, apple, honey, strong petrol, white flowers, lanoline, saline and crushed rock. Excellent concentration, rich and round citrus fruit, precise and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long citrus fruit driven finish with strong mineral and petrol at the end. Drinking beautifully but will improve for another decade or two. (95 pts.)
  • 1985 Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d’Or - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (12/2/2017)
    Incredibly light color for a 30 plus year white Burgundy. Nice mature nose displaying yellow citrus, lemon curd, a hint of pineapple, wet sox, smoke and oyster shell. Fully integrated palate, citrus driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium finish with pineapple and oyster shell at the end. This is a remarkably fresh wine with subtle and delicate fruit. (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru (12/2/2017)
    Big scale nose displaying Intense ripe and rich yellow fruit, peach, apple tart, caramel, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, rich oily yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, medium mineral and a medium long ripe yellow fruit driven finish. I suspect this was harvested very ripe. Rich and powerful but perhaps a bit too ripe and chunky. (93 pts.)
  • 1989 Maison Leroy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (12/2/2017)
    Youthful nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, peach, lemon curd, light caramel, biscotti, smoke and oyster shell. Fully integrated palate, peach and lemon curd driven palate impression, slightly lacking acidity, good mineral presence and a medium long yellow fruit driven finish. Enjoyable. (93 pts.)
  • 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (12/2/2017)
    Perfect fill. Initially Tom thinks the bottle is corked. Slight brett which blows off, incredibly youthful and precise nose displaying slightly dry red fruit, dry cherry, lavender, fruit cake, tar, licorice, leather and tobacco. Very youthful and precise palate, nicely layered dry cherry and raspberry jam driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral, still noticeable but fine tannins and a medium long finish. It remains a bit “dirty”, perhaps brett. Kelly mentions that it always has been a perfect wine and for me, always near perfect…not this time. NR (flawed)
  • 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (12/2/2017)
    Slightly low fill. Noticeable brett that remains. Sweet red fruit driven nose, dry cherry, cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, fruit cake, licorice, animal, tobacco, a hint of leather and earthy mineral. Fully integrated palate, silky, decadent ripe red fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, earthy mineral and a long cherry liqueur and leather driven finish with noticeable brett at the end. Others love it even more. (94 pts.)
  • 1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/2/2017)
    Decanted in advance, hedonistic nose displaying rich black fruit, dry fig, fruit cake, dark caramel, tar, licorice, rose, balsamico, baking spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, dense, rich and deeply toned black fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, medium mineral and a long intense sweet black fruit and baking spices driven finish. Such a contrast to the pure red fruit driven 2000 Asili Riserva, but both equally great. It is drinking beautifully in a youthful opulent fruit driven way but will improve for the next decade or two. (97 pts.)
  • 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/2/2017)
    Decanted in advance, absolutely gorgeous nose displaying pure sweet red fruit, fresh strawberry and raspberry, dry cherry, a hint of mocha, anise, subtle sweet spices and iron/mineral. Perfect harmonious palate, beautifully detail, exceptional precision and purity, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a lovely long pure sweet red fruit and mineral driven finish. This particular bottle is drinking incredibly well in a very Burgundian way. (97 pts.)

The Grill
Beautiful and a bit imposing space. We were joined by Jay, RJ’s debonair son who is a fellow wino. It was a bit dim for a wine dinner but having all Zalto stems was a big plus. The wine service was excellent. The menu consisted of perfectly executed classic dishes.

Excellent Crudite

Wine line up

  • 2009 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (12/2/2017)
    Rich dense yellow fruit driven nose, lemon curd, pineapple, peach, honey, sweet spies, only a slight hint of Coche flint and limestone. Excellent concentration, dense and oily yellow fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long dense sweet yellow fruit driven finish. A bit dull and less detail than the July bottle. I seem to prefer to drink Coche wines young when the fruit expression is white. Perhaps it has reach the slightly awkward stage. (96 pts.)
  • 2014 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (12/2/2017)
    Initially the nose has a hint of oxidized apple skin, so… is it me or the wine? Slightly coiled nose expressing very ripe subtle yellow fruit with a hint of white, lemon curd, peach, biscotti, apple, honey, saline and strong wet stone. Very good concentration, dense and coiled ripe yellow citrus fruit and honey driven palate impression, a hint of sweetness, good acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long ripe citrus fruit drive finish. With air, it gets fresher, more precise and purer, whiter fruit and lighter palate. Although I like the wine, others like it even more. (94 pts.)
  • 2006 Pétrus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (12/2/2017)
    Youthful flamboyant nose displaying decadent red fruit, perfectly ripe cherry, raspberry jelly, caramel, milk chocolate, a hint of floral perfume, rose and crushed rock mix and lead pencil. Already displaying perfectly integrated sensual palate, beautiful finely layered perfectly ripe red fruit, silky, polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine sweet tannins and the finish that never ends. Although very young, drinking incredibly well, so refined yet so decadent and flamboyant. As the brother Jeff may say, liquid sex. (97 pts.)
  • 1995 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (12/2/2017)
    A classic refined and balanced Pauillac nose displaying creme de cassis, crushed blueberry, strong lead pencil, cedar, light caramel and mineral. Very precise and harmonious palate, finely layered black fruit, silky and polished, noticeable but non-obtrusive tannins and a seamless long black fruit and lead pencil driven finish with very noticeable tannins at the end. This wine clearly displays Latour’s finesse and power. It also displays the 95 typicity, i.e. ripe slightly roasted fruit and slightly coarse tannins. It is fascinating to compare with my last bottle, i.e. drank next to the 95 Lafite which seemed very broad and rich. On the other hand, drinking next to the 06 Petrus which is very flamboyant, the wine seems precise and classic. (96 pts.)
  • 1970 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru (12/2/2017)
    Very little expectation as the 70 DRCs that I had thus far were not exceptional. John the sommelier smiles and mentions that this is one of the freshest mature DRCs the clients brought in. Perfectly mature Burgundy nose displaying decadent sweet red fruit, cranberry sauce, cherry, warm strawberry jam, smoke, a hint of soy, caramel, sous bois, iron and mineral. Fully mature palate, decadent mature sweet red fruit driven palate impression, very fluid, good acidity and a medium to long mature sweet red fruit and soy driven finish. Although the nose is a great example of the mature Burgundy, it slightly lacks the DRC signature Asian spices and oolong tea. The palate is slightly coarse. Nevertheless, a great example of perfectly mature GC Burgundy. I believe the groups second or third WOTN. (96 pts.)
  • 1991 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru (12/2/2017)
    Mildly corked. Lovely caramel and very refined palate underneath. Such a shame. I agree with RJ, if I were at home, I would have used saran wrap. NR (flawed)
  • 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (12/2/2017)
    Unbelievably expressive and energetic nose displaying intense pure and decadent black fruit with a hint of red, crushed blackberry, cherry pie, raspberry jam, roasted dark fruit, strong Vosne spice, Asian medicine, a hint of tea, licorice, stem, sap, rose and mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of perfectly ripe pure black fruit, silky, polished and refined, perfect amount of acidity, strong flowery mineral and a decadent yet pure black fruit and Vosne spice driven finish that resonates. It is now open for business in a very youthful way. Absolutely hedonistic, ethereal and breathtaking. (99 pts.)
  • 1970 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru (12/2/2017)
    DOA, soy dominates. NR (flawed)
  • 2007 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/2/2017)
    Expressive nose displaying decadent ripe red fruit, strawberry jam, raspberry jelly, mocha, floral perfume, sautéed mushroom and earthy mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered sweet red fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, excellent earthy mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with earthy mineral and mocha at the end. This is a nicely concentrated 07 GC Burgundy with decadent red fruit. Drinking deliciously in a very youthful way. It will reach the pick in another decade, gaining complexity through sous bois and other tertiary notes. (96 pts.)
  • 1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/2/2017)
    Expressive nose displaying ripe black and red fruits, crushed blackberry and raspberry, roasted fruit, latte, caramel, rose, smoke and earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered sweet roasted black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long decadent black fruit and latte driven finish. Although very youthful, this is drinking magnificently with the opulent fruit and the very precise and silky palate. This will age beautifully for another decade or two. (96 pts.)
  • 2015 von Winning Forster Pechstein Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Pfalz (12/2/2017)
    Very rich and opulent yet pure and precise nose displaying white and yellow fruit, lemon curd, white peach, pear, pineapple, thyme, spicy spices, cool mountain stream and mineral. Very pure and precise, energetic white fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long mineral and white fruit driven finish. The opulent fruit gives a sweet impression. Really delicious yet pretty serious. (94 pts.)
  • 1937 Château Coutet - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac (12/2/2017)
    We pour the rest as John the sommelier wishes to try. Not changed much, more like Madeira, really intense with noticeable VA. (93 pts.)

A quick trip but a great time was had by all.
Posted from CellarTracker

Wow…impressive…I can remember eating at the original Sparks when it was located downtown, a much smaller venue than the one in midtown…Very much a wine oriented “go to” place even back in those days, not as fancy but a lot of fun and good food as well as terrific wine list.

Hey Kevin,

Does this look to you like the same 71 Conterno you had? This was my favorite at a recent barolo dinner with 4 or 5 71s.

Joe
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Joe,
When I get to my offsite storage, I will check. Great wine, very pure classic Barolo which semi ironical.

What was corkage at Dovetail?

Something like $35 for the first two bottles than $50. Our corkage was always more than our meals. [wink.gif]

I can believe that! Nicely done.