Despite it being cold, dark and wet in this northern hell-hole I am really attracted to freshness in wine at the moment. My first 2016 Riesling turned out to be a very solid drink while Doquet just seems to be always on point.
2016 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett- Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (30.11.2017)
Smells like a spontaneously fermented wine with notes of green apple, carambola and some funk. On the palate sweetish on the entry, then gradually gets drier and on the finish does not really carry any sweetness at all. Energetic and ultra juicy without the most prominent acidity ever but not lacking any either. There is clearly some fat here to shed, however not enough to take away from the drinkability. Great density and persistence, finishes mouth-wateringly tangy. Very much green-fruited, nothing tropical or sugary about this one. Fantastic value.
NV Pascal Doquet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Horizon- France, Champagne (26.11.2017)
A blend of 2013 (67 %) and 2012 (33 %), disgorged July 28th of 2016 with a dosage of 6 g/l. Seductively toasty on the nose with notes of green apple, smoke and baking spices. The mousse is mouth-filling, dense and lively, revealing a bone-dry wine that is all about energy and drinkability. Bursting with bright green apple and zestiness, the autolytic notes almost go unnoticed. Fantastic drive and lift, there is just very little fat or weight to be found here. A true classic and the perfect wine for fresh seafood.
Schlossberg Kabinett is one of the best value wines anywhere. It’s also closer to “real” Kabinett. Given how much you liked it, I would recommend their Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinett Halbtrocken.
I’ve throughly enjoyed the Pascal Doquet’s that I’ve had, drank lots of the Horizion but can’t remember the disgorgment date from the case I had. One of my favorite growers and don’t see them mentioned often.
I think you said it best, this drinks very much like a true Kabinett, even thoughI suppose it technically could have been labelled a Spätlese based on the oechsle. Thanks for the recommendation, I’ll try if I see it.
You and me both! Although on the other hand I am happy that price increases of the years have been quite reasonable.
Another data point on the Doquet Horizon from yesterday, this time 50% 2017-50% 2012-16 reserve wine. Enjoyed it well enough but felt like it was less focused and driven than before - well no wonder considering the blend of my previous bottle (OP)!
NV Pascal Doquet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Horizon- France, Champagne (26.3.2021)
The nose here absolutely swarms from the glass and fills the nostrils with lots of bread dough, crisp apple, sea breeze and some baking spices. It’s not massively refined but it is expressive and very pleasant. The mousse caresses the palate and is admirably persistent. The 5 g/l dosage feels a bit high at first but integrates nicely soon. The flavor profile comes off as young with its crisp apple fruit. It is also strong on yeasty and stony notes. The finish falls of somewhat - nothing horrible but it just loses some of the fruit and bitter tones come to the fore. While not super complex it is overall well balanced and drinks like a charm. I am enjoying it more than fine but I can’t help but compare it to last week’s Lilbert which makes it seem a bit unfocused and simplistic. Not sure how fair that is, but nevertheless this is a successful wine at its price point.
I love the wines that Pascal Doquet makes and the Horizon is a really great example of the Cote de Perthois. It is like bottled sunshine. Not as intense as the classic Grand Crus of the Cote des Blancs, but still mineral - just in a slightly richer/more textured, and creamier way. 2017 was a rough year. Chardonnay did the best by far, but it would be an outlier for a 2017 based NV to compete with a 2013/2012 blend.
In general, the Cote de Perthois deserves way more attention. At one point, this area was well known for its grapes, but after phylloxera, it suffered and really didn’t get replanted until the 1960s and 1970s. The vines are now really starting to thrive and with only the south facing slopes being permitted for planting, you have really good material. I’d take Chardonnay from this area over just about anything from the south end of the Cote des Blancs, Petit Morin, and Sezennais. This area along with the village of Bisseuil (which is in between the Pinot Noir heavy villages of Mareuil-sur-Ay and Tour-sur-Marne) are two very overlooked places for top notch Chardonnay in Champagne.
I think “bottled sunshine” describes this wine really well. Cote de Perthois is not on my radar at all or rather has not been thus far (could not locate it on the map if my life depended on it) but I suppose I need to keep my eyes open for wines coming from there moving forward. The vintage commentary is not surprising but definitely appreciated. Thanks for chiming in!