TN: 2017 Villa d’Este Wine Symposium - Kelly and Kevin's excellent adventure

2017 VILLA D’ESTE WINE SYMPOSIUM - KELLY AND KEVIN’S EXCELLENT ADVENTURE - Villa D’este, Lake Como and Milan (11/9/2017-11/14/2017)

The time flies as this was the ninth edition of the Villa D’Este wine symposium. Since Kelly and I had so much fun last year, we signed up early to ensure that we get our spots. The flights to Milan were easy and uneventful.

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I could never get tired of this. So calm and serene this time of the year.
11/9/2017 - Producer Tasting
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The most modest man in the wine world.

Some of the producers that I loved.
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Szepsy

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Chateau Pauque, my friend Abi’s wine from Luxembourg

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Von Winning

• 2014 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (11/9/2017)
  Small pour, expressive nose displaying sweet red fruit, cranberry, strawberry jam, a hint of blackberry, strong stem note, Vosne spice, dark spices, cinnamon, sap, cola and mineral. Already showing exceptional balance, very polished, bright silky red fruit and stem driven palate impression, bright acidity, very fine tannins and a long crunch red fruit and stem driven finish. Based on the strong stem, I suspect this will develop a wonderful Asian spice note. Excellent showing. (96 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (11/9/2017)
  Medium expressive nose displaying dense black fruit, blackberry, a hint of strawberry jam, rose, roasted cep, oolong tea, sap, mocha and earth. Excellent concentration, packed blackberry, a hint of stem, good acidity and mineral, and a long deeply toned finish that resonates with blackberry and mocha. Although enjoyable, the opulent fruit has subsided a bit and mineral has emerged. Need another decade to reach the peak. (95 pts.)

11/9/2017 - Opening Dinner
The opening dinner is always BYOB. I finally had the pleasure of meeting Jeff Zacharia and Christine Erickson who is my point of contact at Zachys. It was nice to see old friends as well as new.

• 1988 Domaine de L’Arlot Côte de Nuits Villages Clos du Chapeau - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages (11/9/2017)
  Fully mature subtle nose displaying shy warm sweet red fruit, sous bois, button mushroom, iron and earth. Medium concentration, subtle red fruit and mushroom driven palate impression, good acidity, steely mineral and a clean medium finish. The tertiary notes give nice complexity, a great example of properly cellared village wine. (91 pts.)
• 2010 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (11/9/2017)
  Expressive concentrated nose displaying intense black fruit, crème de cassis, crushed blackberry, ink, licorice, smoke and lead pencil. Excellent concentration, nicely layered black fruit, silky and polished, good acidity, very fine tannins and a long cassis and ink driven finish. Incredibly youthful and needs at least ten years of cellaring. Not the most complex 10 but an impressively scaled wine with exceptional texture. (94 pts.)
• 2006 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (11/9/2017)
  Beautifully balanced nose displaying raspberry, crushed blackberry, a hint of mint and sous bois, caramel, sweet spices, Asian spice and earth. Nicely integrated palate, ripe red fruit and caramel driven palate impression, medium acidity. Nicely integrated tannins and a lovely long finish. Drinking beautifully, the delicate nature of Chambolle but the generous ripe fruit of the domaine. (93 pts.)
• 2007 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (11/9/2017)
  A bit coiled youthful nose displaying ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, strawberry jam, sweet spices and earth. Medium concentration, ripe black fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, noticeable but none obtrusive tannins and a medium to long jammy black fruit and limestone/mineral driven finish. Not the level of the Roumier version but enjoyable and promising. Perhaps another ten years to reach the peak. (93 pts.)
• 2001 Vieux Château Certan - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (11/9/2017)
  Very youthful nose displaying intense cassis, black cherry, plum, ink, lavender and mineral. Excellent concentration, intense cassis driven palate impression, bright acidity, noticeable sweet tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish. I am surprised by the intensity especially considering the vintage. The nose is a bit one dimensional. It will need another ten years to reach the peak. (93 pts.)
• 2007 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (11/9/2017)
  Very pure and energetic nose displaying fresh white fruit, apple, lemon, pear, a hint of flint and sesame, white flowers, cool mountain stream and limestone. Beautifully integrated harmonious palate, fresh white fruit driven palate impression, good precision, medium acidity, excellent mineral presence and a long white fruit and sesame driven finish. Very complete energetic wine that is such a pleasure to drink. (96 pts.)
• 1979 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (11/9/2017)
  Fully mature claret nose, still noticeable cassis with a hint of plum, also cherry, cedar, lead pencil, leather, dirty damp cellar and scorched earth. Medium concentration, fully integrated palate, subtle cassis and cedar driven palate impression, good acidity, still a bit of noticeable slightly coarse tannins and a medium finish. This is a good but not great Latour. (92 pts.)
• 2005 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/9/2017)
  Intense nose displaying decadent concentrated black fruit, crushed blackberry, blackberry jelly, raspberry jam, dark flowers, caramel, tree bark, grilled meat and earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered decadent black fruit, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish that resonates. Concentrated decadent yet pure black fruit makes this wine really enjoyable. Certainly not a delicate wine so Caveat Emptor. Perhaps it has reached the first stage of the youthful peak but can easily improve for another decade. (94 pts.)
• 2008 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (11/9/2017)
  Intense nose displaying decadent bright red fruit, raspberry preserve, caramel, sweet spices, sap, mocha and mineral. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered bright red fruit, very precise and energetic, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long bright sweet red fruit and mocha driven finish. A great example of the top '08 GCs, i.e. very pure and energetic but also with generous fruit. Excellent showing. (97 pts.)
• 2006 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (11/9/2017)
  Beautiful ripe nose displaying decadent red and black fruit, raspberry jelly, crushed blackberry, black cherry, caramel, cinnamon, a hint of sous bois and earth. Excellent concentration, packed decadent raspberry and blackberry, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a long decadent red fruit driven finish. This is a very ripe and opulent wine that needs another five to ten years to reach the youthful peak. (95 pts.)
• 1989 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (11/9/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying crème de cassis, a hint of blueberry, scorched earth, lavender, strong lead pencil, cedar, tobacco and earth. Beautifully integrated harmonious palate, very finely layered blue fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence, fully integrated tannins and a long finish that resonates. A classic La Mission Haut Brion, more “masculine” than the 89 Haut Brion. It has reached the youthful peak but will improve for another two decades or more, gaining more cedar and sweetness of red fruit, becoming like the 59 or 61. Excellent showing. (98 pts.)
• 2010 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/9/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying very ripe red fruit, dry cherry, plum, caramel, sap and strong iron. Excellent concentration, finely layered jammy red fruit, very polished and fluid, incredibly silky tannins and a long dry cherry and iron driven finish. A classic Voerzio, i.e. ripe and concentrated with very silky tannins. This is no Giuseppe Rinaldi but I would not call it modern. Like the Mortet, not for the hardcore purists. However, another decade of cellaring may change that. (96 pts.)

11/9/2017 - After Dinner Gathering at Villa Chima
As usual,small group of us headed to Villa Chima for our “real” dinner.

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Nice bottles and a Galician Tomahawk!

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Before

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After

• 2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart - France, Champagne (11/9/2017)
  En Magnum, limited release and my friend Laurent seems to have 50% of the world allocation. Expressive nose displaying intense ripe yellow fruit, lemon curd, tarte tatin, brioche, honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, dense and oily, generous fine mousse, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long sweet yellow fruit and mineral driven finish. It is a big scale decedent yet energetic Champagne. Drinking beautifully now but will age gracefully especially in magnum format. (96 pts.)
• 1964 Fernand Pernot Griotte-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru (11/9/2017)
  Shy and a bit thin nose displaying mostly tertiary notes, shy strawberry, shiitake, wet forest floor and iron. Light and airy, perhaps a bit watery at this point, shy red fruit and shiitake driven palate impression, subtle acidity, strong steely mineral accentuated by subdued fruit and a medium iron driven finish. For my palate, needs more fruit but others seem to like it more. (90 pts.)
• 1964 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (11/9/2017)
  Medium expressive nose, subtle red fruit, cedar, a hint of tobacco, leather and oyster shell. Fully resolved palate, shy red fruits, medium acidity and a medium long finish. This particular bottle is slightly past the peak. Still enjoyable with mostly tertiary notes. (92 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru (11/9/2017)
  Very youthful energetic nose displaying raspberry, crushed blackberry, cherry, sap, dark spices, a hint of Asian medicine and strong Gevrey earth. Excellent concentration, nicely packed intense youthful red fruit, bright acidity, strong sappy mineral and a long energetic finish. Not as detailed and refined as the 09 CSJ or Chambertin. However, it displays a lot of power and energy. Needs another ten to twenty years to reach the peak. (95 pts.)
• 2004 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/9/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying mostly ripe yet pure red fruit, sap, tar, baking spices and strong iron which is surprising. Beautifully integrated palate, nicely layered decadent red fruit, very silky and polished despite showing noticeable tannins towards to the end, bright acidity and a long decadent red fruit and iron driven finish. Perhaps the wine to seek. Drinking beautifully but definitely can improve for two more decades. (95 pts.)

11/10/2017 - Lunch Osteria del Beuc
Kelly and I have a tradition of having lunch at Trattoria del Vapore. Since someone made a reservation here, we gave it a try. Typically seeing a lot of the locals dining is a good sign… but not this time. The pasta with ragu tasted like something from a cafeteria. Add insult to injury, two reds we brought showed poorly.

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It must be a root day!

• 1989 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Tourtine - France, Provence, Bandol (11/10/2017)
  Excellent appearance, unfortunately stewed fruit. Perhaps slowly heat damaged or just not good. NR (flawed)
• 1968 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley (11/10/2017)
  Just like the Tempier, excellent appearance but not showing well. Ripe fruit, plum, licorice, a hint of Madeira and VA, and earth. Need to try another one. NR (flawed)
• 2014 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Cervaro della Sala Umbria IGT - Italy, Umbria, Umbria IGT (11/10/2017)
  Modern ripe style of Chardonnay blend, lemon, lemon curd, a hint of pineapple, spicy spices, creme brulee and steely mineral. Excellent concentration, ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, steely mineral, good acidity and a long lemon and steel driven finish. Very good wine with good freshness but a bit heavy palate. For those who like the opulent fruit of California Chardonnay. (92 pts.)

11/10/2017 - Villa Chima
Since we were still hungry, we headed back to Villa Chima.

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Italian cheese

• 2014 Domaine François Cotat (Paul & François) Sancerre La Grande Côte - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (11/10/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying kiwi, citrus, cat pee, lanoline, honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, oily, succulent citrus and grass driven palate impression, bright acidity, good mineral expression and a medium to long citrus driven finish. It displays the classic Sauvignon profile but is surprisingly ripe showing a hint of honey. Very enjoyable. (92 pts.)
• 1994 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville (11/10/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying opulent black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry jam, a hint of plum, caramel, vanilla, dark flowers, tobacco and earth. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered jammy black fruit, silky and polished, good acidity, nicely integrated silky tannins and a long cassis driven finish. It has reached the first stage of its youthful peak. Excellent showing. (95 pts.)

11/10/2017 - Prestige tasting - Egon Muller
A great educational tasting with Egon. For my palate, Egon Muller is like D’yquem, a step above all the others. I love the energy and purity, also the weightless texture. The 05 Spatlese was exceptional.

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• 2015 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben Auction - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Cool clean white fruit, citrus, sour apple, pear and limestone. Medium concentration, very precise and focused, and a medium to long clean mineral driven finish. (91 pts.)
• 1994 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Very youthful clean nose with a hint of petrol, granny smith, citrus and wet stone. Medium concentration, very precise, quite dry, mouth puckering acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium cool white fruit driven finish. The white fruit is subtle. (90 pts.)
• 2015 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Very focused expressive nose displaying lemon curd, golden delicious, key lime pie, pear, honey, beeswax, a hint of spearmint, spicy spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, oily, beautifully layered white fruit, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long intense white fruit and mineral driven finish. Most over achieved wine of the night. (95 pts.)
• 1997 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Very focused and harmonious nose displaying cool white fruit, white peach, granny smith, a hint of petrol, spicy spices, mountain stream and wet stone. Fully integrated, cool and precise citrus driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium to long cool clean finish. I imagine this would have been a bit less concentrated than the 05 at its youth. (93 pts.)
• 1988 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Incredibly focused singular nose, subtle white fruit, white and yellow peach, white flowers, honey, and petrol. Fully integrated harmonious palate, cool and energetic, medium sweetness, good acidity and mineral presence and a long clean finish. Very precise mineral driven wine. (94 pts.)
• 1975 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Bright gold. Beautifully balanced sweet nose displaying apricot, candied orange peel, burnt sugar, honey and mineral. Fully integrated airy palate, silky and polished, nicely layered dry yellow fruit, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long finish. Fully mature, no need to wait. Really enjoyable wine. (94 pts.)
• 1975 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Beerenauslese Eiswein - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Incredible complex and energetic nose displaying hedonistic yellow fruit, apricot tart, peach cobbler, creme brulee, honey, a hint of petrol and sweet spices. Wonderfully focused, very precise, D’Yquem like ethereal texture, bright acidity and the finish that never ends. Very noble wine. (97 pts.)
• 1976 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/10/2017)
  Fully mature nose displaying raisin, dry apricot, burnt sugar, honey, crème brulee and medium dark caramel. Oily but not heavy, nice balance and an intense long finish that resonates. Excellent TBA but need a bit more detail to be perfect. (95 pts.)

11/10/2017 - Friday Dinner
It was quite nice but we were saving some room for white truffle and pasta at Villa Chima!

• 2016 Jean-Luc Colombo Condrieu Amour de Dieu - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (11/10/2017)
  Ripe yellow fruit driven nose, not showing much lychee fruit, honey and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, quite dense, decadent yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and a medium to long finish. (92 pts.)
• 2010 Caves Albert Duhr (Château Pauqué) Auxerrois Blanc Clos du Paradis - Luxembourg, Moselle, Moselle Luxembourgeoise (11/10/2017)
  This displays mostly fresh white fruit, pear, peach and bubble gum in the youth. Fully mature nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, peach, smoke, honey and sweet spices. Dense, deeply tone yellow fruit, slightly lacking acidity, medium mineral and a medium to long peach and honey driven finish. Really a unique expression Very good showing. (92 pts.)
• 2011 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas Les Ruchets - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (11/10/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying intense black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, licorice and a hint of tapenade. Excellent concentration, intense ripe black fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and a medium to long black fruit and tapenade driven finish. Need another decade to reach the full maturity. (91 pts.)
• 2007 Romano Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore (11/10/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying intense black fruit, blackberry jam, dry fig, licorice, ink, molasses and oak. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, unctuous yet silky, bright acidity, still noticeable tannins, oak tannins I suspect, that is a bit dry. There is enough fruit to last the prominent oak. It is certainly a divisive wine as it is as big as the biggest Napa cabs. Based on the aging curve of Quintarelli Valpolicella, this will need another decade or two to reach the peak. (94 pts.)

11/10/2017 - After Dinner Dinner Gathering at Villa Chima
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300g only vs usual 2 kilos, bad white truffle year so far, ugly but divine smell!

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Renzo is not only the master wine maker but also the master truffle cleaner!

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Kelly the debonair working hard on grating Parmesan.

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Enzo the critic, aka maestro serving Romano and his lovely wife.

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Nice line-up

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Romano and Orazio

• 1992 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé (11/10/2017)
  Golden yellow. Fully mature nose displaying honey, burnt sugar, citrus, kiwi, a hint of grass and mineral. Excellent concentration, lemon oil and burnt sugar driven palate impression, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long burnt sugar and citrus driven finish. At or slightly past the peak but very interesting. (92 pts.)
• 1961 Château Léoville Barton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (11/10/2017)
  Fully mature nose displaying sweet red fruit, cherry, raspberry, a hint of plum, a lot of cedar, a hint of lead pencil, leather, tobacco and earthy. Fully integrated harmonious palate, subtle sweet red fruit driven palate impression, silky and polished, very broad, perfect amount of acidity, fully integrated tannins and a long sweet red fruit and cedar driven finish. The tertiary complexity comes from ideal cellaring. A bit straightforward compare to the top 61s. Nevertheless, this is a classic claret that is drinking beautifully. (95 pts.)
• 1975 Château Trotanoy - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (11/10/2017)
  Pop and pour not as expressive as the last bottle less than a month ago, showing a bid of fine sediment resulting in a hint of metal in the nose. Still complex nose displaying black fruit, caramel, leather and dark milk chocolate. Excellent concentration, opulent black fruit, silky, good acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long sweet red fruit and dark milk chocolate driven finish. Good showing but clearly suffered from travel shock. (96 pts.)
• 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11/10/2017)
  Explosive nose displaying intense slightly dry red fruit, cherry, dry cherry, strawberry jam, sweet spices, tar, porcini, rare steak and iron. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered opulent cherry fruit, silky and polished strong iron, bright acidity and a lovely long finish. Drinking incredibly well in a very youthful way but can improve for another two decades or more. Excellent showing. (97 pts.)
• 1997 Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Lodoletta - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella (11/10/2017)
  Explosive nose displaying intense dark fruit, blackberry jam, dry fig, ink, licorice, molasses, balsamico, milk chocolate and oak. Incredible concentration, unctuous, intense rip black fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and the finish that never ends. The tannins are completely masked by the concentrated fruit. One of the most concentrated wines of my life. For my palate, very imposing and impressive. It certainly is not for everyone. Some may also consider the wine to be flawed due to the noticeable VA. This will definitely outlive me. (97 pts.)
• 1988 Romano Dal Forno Recioto della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella (11/10/2017)
  As some of you may recall, Dal Forno wines were highly sought-after in the early 90s and this was the wine to chase. At youth, I was amazed by the balance despite 17% ABV. A quarter century later, it hasn’t budged much. Intense nose displaying chocolate dipped cherry, dry fig, wet tobacco, molasses, baking spices and dark caramel. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of black fruit, unctuous yet pure and precise, silky and polished, strong acidity and the finish that resonates with tobacco and dry fig. This is a unique monumental wine. I am sensitive to alcohol but this shows none. Amazing experience as usual. Once again, not for everyone. (99 pts.)

11/11/2017 - Lunch at Ristorante Materia
We were looking for a nice place for lunch near the hotel. Our good friend Enzo, the director of Guide dell’Espresso, recommended the restaurant. The dishes were exceptional, very pure, precise and intensely flavored. The Chef, Davide Caranchini, worked at Enoteca Pinchiori and Noma but got homesick and moved back to Como.

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Delicious Bun

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Lake trout from Lake Como, perfectly executed

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Amuse Bouche

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Faux gnocchi with smoked eel in intense tomato broth

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Wood pigeon before

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After

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Dessert

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Christy, Davide, Kelly and me

And… The damage done at Villa Chima while we were gone

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• 2007 Azienda Agricola Dossi Retici Stabia - Italy, Lombardia, Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio IGT (11/11/2017)
  We are all pleasantly surprised by the classic Nebbiolo expression. Round and warm nose displaying cherry, strawberry, cinnamon and iron. Medium concentration, round and silky, subtle sweet red fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, strong iron/mineral and a medium iron and round red fruit driven finish. For 30 euros, an excellent value. (92 pts.)

11/11/2017 - Prestige tasting - Armand Rousseau
Unfortunately Eric was unable to join but Cyrielle Rousseau did a wonderful job leading the group

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• 2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/11/2017)
  Medium expressive nose displaying ripe red and black fruit, strawberry, black cherry, strawberry jam, very floral, sap and strong earthy mineral. Good concentration, silky and polished, generous sweet red fruit, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium to long sweet red fruit and mineral driven finish. Initially very polished impression but after the others, seems a bit straightforward. Nevertheless, it is a very good wine that is still open for business. (92 pts.)
• 2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/11/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying pure black fruit, crushed blackberry, spice spices, sap, very floral, caramel, toasted bread and strong limestone. Exceptional finesse and balance for such a young wine, beautifully layered decadent yet pure black fruit, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence, very fine tannins and a long crushed blackberry and dark flower driven finish. The nose is quite intense yet the overall all expression is quite elegant and refined. It is drinking beautifully in a very youthful way which is not surprising. (96 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/11/2017)
  Beautifully perfumed nose, raspberry preserve, crushed blackberry, very floral, grilled fat, sesame, toast, sap and earthy mineral. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered black and red fruit, exceptional finesse and purity especially for the vintage, silky and airy, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence and a long pure black fruit and sesame/toast driven finish. This has settled a bit, not as opulent but more detailed and floral. Still needs another decade to reach the youthful peak. What I really love about Rouseeau wines is that they never shutdown hard, always delicate, pure and hedonistic. (96 pts.)
• 2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/11/2017)
  The most elegant, pure, balanced and enjoyable wine of the CSJ flight. Beautifully perfumed nose displaying raspberry water, crushed blackberry, rose, exotic spices, sesame and strong limestone. Perfectly harmonious palate, airy and weightless, so finely layered subtle red fruit, bright acidity, incredibly mineral and a seamless subtle red fruit and sesame driven finish. The palate to die for, simply ethereal. Can a seven year red Burgundy be drinking perfectly? For me, yes! (99 pts.)
• 2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/11/2017)
  Very mineral and floral driven nose, decadent ripe black fruit, mocha, sesame, a hint of sous bois, perfume, grilled fat and earth. Beautifully integrated palate, incredibly finesse, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a seamless long finish with blackberry and sesame at the end. This has reach its youthful peak. Drinking beautifully. The pleasant surprise of the evening along with the 06 Chambertin. (96 pts.)
• 2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru (11/11/2017)
  Big scale nose displaying rich sweet red fruit, strawberry, raspberry jam, a hint of mocha, sap, spicy spices, grilled cep, sesame and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense red fruit, rich and round, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long sweet red fruit and sesame driven finish. This is fuller and richer than the 12 CSJ. I find it enjoyable in a primary way but needs another two decades to reach peak. (97 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru (11/11/2017)
  Another big scale nose displaying decadent black fruit, blackberry jelly, mocha, rose, sap, grilled fat, spicy spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of opulent black fruit, silky, medium acidity, strong mineral presence, a hint of fine tannins and a long seamless black fruit driven finish. Just like the 09 CSJ, the opulent fruit has subsided, becoming more precise and classic. Another monumental wine that will need another decade or two to reach maturity. (97 pts.)
• 2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru (11/11/2017)
  Truly a sensory overload. Simply perfect nose displaying perfectly ripe blackberries, cornucopia of flowers, coffee beans, exotics spices, a hint of vosne spice and mineral. The nose remains perfect but constantly evolving and changing. Though so much going on in the nose, all components interplay beautifully and perfectly harmonious. Deceptively light as the palate is incredibly polished and silky. Perfect balance and precision. Despite being young, incredibly complex and drinking perfectly. I recall Jeremy H and Paul H mentioned this is actually better than the Beze. I didn’t think so earlier but now I agree based on this example. The Beze is more intense but this is even purer and more precise. One of the greatest young wines of my life. Perfect in every way! The best wine unanimously. (100 pts.)
• 2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru (11/11/2017)
  Hedonistic nose displaying ripe black fruit, animal, Asian spices, oolong tea, sesame and a hint of sous bois. Beautifully integrated palate, nicely layered decadent black fruit, silky and fluid, medium acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long decadent black fruit and Asian spice driven finish. Pleasantly surprised by how well the 06 CSJ and this showed. Drinking beautifully. (97 pts.)

11/11/2017 - Saturday Dinner

• 2008 Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi - Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG (11/11/2017)
  En magnum, medium expressive nose displaying rich ripe yellow fruit, baked apple, brioche, honey, sweet spices and mineral. Very good concentration, generous medium size mousse, good acidity and a medium to long decadent yellow fruit driven finish. Really enjoyable. (93 pts.)
• 2011 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune - France, Alsace (11/11/2017)
  A hint of petrol, opulent yet fresh white fruit, pear, granny smith, white peach, white flowers, honey and mineral. Very good concentration, good acidity, incredibly mineral and a long pear and mineral driven finish. It starts with a hint of sweetness but the finish is dry. Drinking beautifully already but will improve for at least a couple of decades. (95 pts.)
• 2006 Gaja Langhe Chardonnay Gaia & Rey - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/11/2017)
  Ripe yellow fruit, baked apple, pineapple, hazelnut, a hint of oak and steely mineral. Excellent concentration, ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, steely mineral and a medium finish. It is enjoyable but not extraordinary. (92 pts.)
• 2014 Martin Waßmer Dottinger Castellberg Spätburgunder trocken - Germany, Baden (11/11/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying very ripe expression of pinot, mostly jammy dark fruit, dark spices, quite floral and limestone. Excellent concentration, intense black fruit, quite chewy, good acidity, strong mineral presence and a long jammy black fruit driven finish. It is a big ripe scale pinot. Closer to California than Burgundy. (92 pts.)
• 2008 Roberto Voerzio Barbera d’Alba Riserva Vigneto Pozzo dell’Annunziata - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (11/11/2017)
  En double magnum. As expected from Voerzio Barbare, this is an incredibly concentrated and big scale Barbera. A hint of VA, mostly dark cherry, dry cherry, licorice, baking spices, vanilla, espresso, tar and mineral. Incredibly concentrated, layers upon layers of intense jammy black fruit, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long deeply toned black fruit driven finish. Certainly not for everyone. If you love big cal cabs and want to start explorer Piedmont wines, this may not be a bad introduction. (94 pts.)
• 2004 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/11/2017)
  En double magnum. Starting to show a bit of maturity. Expressive nose displaying black cherry, plum, licorice, tar, leather, violet, caramel, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered dark fruits, incredibly polished and silky, very fine tannins and a long plum and caramel driven finish. Unlike the 08 Barbera, this feels very traditional. Excellent showing. (97 pts.)
• 2013 István Szepsy Tokaji Szamorodni - Hungary, Tokaji (11/11/2017)
  Incredibly decadent nose displaying apricot preserve, canned peach, acacia and honey. Excellent concentration, decadent ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, mouth puckering acidity and an incredibly long intense yellow fruit driven finish. A wonderful dessert wine, a great palate cleanser. (94 pts.)

11/12/2017 - Villa Chima aftermath
We stopped by at Villa Chima to find Orazio’s glasses.

And the damage

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11/12/2017 - Dinner at Roberto’s
We met the three Italian amigos over ten years ago through Grand Jury European. Since then, we have become great friends. Roberto generously offered to host us and we obliged.

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Carne Cruda

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Maestro Orazio

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Damage done

• NV Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Brut Platine - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (11/12/2017)
  Cuvee from 2003 to 2006 vintages. En magnum, rich and generous succulent yellow fruit, lemon curd, baked apple, a hint of raspberry added, honey, brioche and a hint of limestone. Very good concentration, generous deeply toned yellow fruit, generous medium mousse, bright acidity and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit and brioche driven finish. Nice complexity coming from aging. This is a generous ripe style Champagne. (93 pts.)
• 2012 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (11/12/2017)
  This has come together beautifully from a year ago. Decadent yellow fruit, fresh OJ, candied orange peel, lemon curd, a hint of pineapple, smoke, burnt sugar, flint, oyster jus and limestone. Excellent concentration, good energy, ripe dense yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long deeply toned sweet yellow fruit and smoke driven finish. This is a big scale wine with opulent ripe fruit and strong mineral. (95 pts.)
• 2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (11/12/2017)
  Ripe yellow fruit, peach, lemon oil, caramel, sweet spices and oak. Excellent concentration, quite dense and oily, ripe yellow fruit and oak driven palate impression, slightly lacking acidity and a medium finish with ripe yellow fruit and oak at the end. For my palate, a bit Californiaesque. (91 pts.)
• 1992 Chartron et Trébuchet Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (11/12/2017)
  Pop and pour, a bit cloying nose and advanced nose initially. It settles down, ripe yellow fruit, crème brulee, butterscotch, sweet spices, oyster jus and oyster shell. Fully integrated palate, ripe yellow fruit, oyster shell, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium finish with crème brulee and oyster shell at the end. Not showing as well as the ones back home. (91 pts.)
• 2014 A. et P. de Villaine Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise (11/12/2017)
  Very pure and mineral, bright red fruit, raspberry and strawberry, strong mineral and a hint of stem. Medium concentration, bright red fruit, bright acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long clean red fruit driven finish. I believe this will improve for another decade, gaining a bit of sous bois and sweetness. (92 pts.)
• 1982 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11/12/2017)
  Fully mature masculine nose displaying ripe red and black fruit, dry cherry, cherry brandy, dry fig, sweet spices, caramel, leather and strong iron. Excellent concentration, slightly chunky and rustic dry cherry fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong iron/mineral, still noticeable coarse tannins and a long dry cherry and iron driven finish. After 35 years, it remains quite firm and masculine. Sort of old school, can detect anything modern other than concentration. (95 pts.)
• 1980 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (11/12/2017)
  Rather shy nose displaying subtle red fruit, a hint of blood, tapenade, garrigue and leather and earth. Fully integrated palate, shy red fruit, medium acidity and a short to medium finish. This particular bottle is past its prime. The remnants of classic Chave profile makes it still enjoyable. Perhaps better in Magnum format? (91 pts.)
• 1980 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (11/12/2017)
  Initially a bit murky after traveling for a few days. With an hour of air, expressive nose displaying raspberry and blackberry jelly, a hint of black cherry, bacon fat, licorice, garrigue and black pepper. Fully integrated yet youthful palate, very finely layered sweet black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and earthy mineral, and a seamless finish with blackberry and bacon fat at the end. This is a classic mature La La that is drinking beautifully. Considering the current prices of the 78s and the 85s, perhaps the wine to seek. (96 pts.)
• 1997 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (11/12/2017)
  Imposing nose displaying slightly dry red fruit, dry cherry, dry fig, plums, cinnamon, molasses, anise, ink, tobacco, leather, a hint of VA and earth. Nicely integrated palate, layers upon layers of dry cherry and dry fig, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and the finish that never ends. It is a monster scale wine. Still needs time to develop more tobacco and leather. If you consider a hint of VA as a major flaw, avoid. As usual for Quintarelli and Dal Forno wines, certainly not for everyone. (96 pts.)
• 1969 Robert -Bouzereau-Millot Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (11/12/2017)
  Fully mature mostly tertiary notes, apricot, orange peel, burnt sugar, sweet spices and copper. Fully integrated palate, warm and round yellow fruit, medium acidity and medium finish. Still enjoyable. (90 pts.)
• 1995 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Nahe (11/12/2017)
  Beautifully mature yet energetic nose, peach, apricot, lemon curd, ginger, green herbs, caramel and limestone. Excellent concentration, oily, ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. Excellent showing especially for a Kabinett. (93 pts.)
• 2012 Bettschen Steve Cabernet Franc metaphusis 6.5 Plamont - Switzerland, Valais, Charrat (11/12/2017)
  Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe strawberry and blackberry, dark flowers, rosemary, spicy spices, caramel and earthy mineral. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered jammy red fruits, bright acidity and mineral and a long sweet red fruit and mineral driven finish. I would love to serve it blind next to Clos Rougeard. (93 pts.)

11/13/2017 - Lunch at Setta
Since Enzo’s recommendation of Restaurant Materia was so on point, I asked him where to dine in Milan. I really love his enthusiasm and appreciate his kindness and generosity as not only he recommended a place but also insisted on making the reservation on our behalf.
At this point of the trip, we were a bit tired and debated whether to cancel. It would have been a big mistake as this was perhaps the best meal of the year along with the meals at Troisgros. It must been the “friends of Enzo special” as we got so many small courses. By the time the main dish was served, I was completely full. In addition, the sommelier served us two reds double blind which put a lot of pressure on Kelly and I as we didn’t want to let Enzo down.

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Beautiful understated serene setting

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Amuse Bouche

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Chicken liver Amuse Bouche

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Perhaps the best oyster dish of my life

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Squid ink risotoo with Cuman oil – perfectly perfectly al dente and intensely flavored

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Chicken gizzard that I actually enjoyed

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Table side service!

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Maialino to die for - a bit like Pata Negra but made in Italy!

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Great palate cleanser

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My dessert that Kelly ate cause I was too full

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Petit four

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Great line-up

• NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée - France, Champagne (11/13/2017)
  Celebrated 164th version. Beautiful harmonious nose displaying granny smith, lemon curd, honey, smoke, brioche and wetstone. Nicely integrated plate, pure and energetic yellow fruit, generous very fine mousse, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long pure yellow fruit and mineral driven finish. This seems fresher, more detailed and energetic than usual. It is also drinking incredible well at the moment. (97 pts.)
• 2011 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-Pape Omnia - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (11/13/2017)
  Served blind, we are thinking Pinot, very pure red fruit, raspberry and strawberry, perfume, anise and strong mineral. Beautiful harmonious palate, very fined layered sweet pure red fruit, silky and fluid, perfect amount of mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. There is a hint of heat/alcohol at the end. The nose and palate are very Pinot but too sweet and too alcoholic to be Burgundy. MY guess is a German pinot or a small production wine from Etna. We are pleasantly surprised. This is a Rayas junior, i.e. similar but a bit gentler and not as decadent, if that makes sense. (95 pts.)
• 2013 Gillardi Barolo Vignane - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/13/2017)
  Served blind, soft and warm red fruit, strawberry, cherry, cinnamon, rose, nutmeg and iron. Medium concentration, round and warm red fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, good iron/mineral presence and a clean medium finish with soft red fruit at the end. Our guess is Barolo which is correct, a big relief! This is a very pretty early drinking Barolo. (93 pts.)
• 2012 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (11/13/2017)
  Beautiful ripe yellow fruit driven nose, peach, candied orange peel, burnt sugar and strong mineral. Excellent concentration, ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and a long decadent yellow fruit and burnt sugar driven finish. Similar to the last night’s bottle. (95 pts.)

11/13/2017 - Dinner at Christian’s
I met Christian, one of the three Italian amigos, over ten years ago. Since then we have share a lot of great wines. The night before, Christian thought Orazio’s generous use of lemon peel in his version of risotto Milanese was blasphemy and he insisted that we try the “real” deal. Our original plan was to get to the airport after lunch, check in at the airport Sheraton and grab a cab to Gallarate, a charming town near Malpensa, to dine at the usual spot. However we couldn’t resist the idea of trying the best risotto Milanese!

Christian’s wife used to run a classic Milanese cooking school. Her version was amazing, the best risotto Milanese of life by far, great subtle yet complex flavor and texture that is to die for.

This was a great way to end another memorable trip.

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Best Risotto Milanese - Thank you Christian and sorry Orazio!

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Christian’s wine which was really good

• NV Krug Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne (11/13/2017)
  Expressive vinous nose, subtle yet decadent red fruit, raspberry jam, strawberry, sweet spices and coopery mineral. Beautiful harmonious palate, generous very fine mousse, decadent sweet red fruit, bright acidity, strong coppery mineral and a seamless finish with yummy red fruit and cooper at the end. Excellent showing. (95 pts.)
• 2007 Morgassi Superiore Gavi TIMORGASSO - Italy, Piedmont, Gavi (11/13/2017)
  Fully mature nose, a hint of licorice, light caramel, a bit of mature Chenin, burnt sugar, oyster jus and oyster shell. Fully mature palate, slightly oily, oyster shell, caramel, bright acidity and a medium finish. Fully mature and drinking surprisingly well. Good match with the Risotto Milanese. (91 pts.)

Another incredible time at Villa D’Este wine symposium! I am already looking forward to the tenth edition!
Posted from CellarTracker

Amazing!
Kevin your style is awesome. Thanks

Good stuff

I was at Rousseau last thursday … interesting 2016, by the cask …
The Clos St-Jacques 2005, still very young, however turned out to be a great wine.

Beautiful pictures , Kevin . And as usual great tasting notes . Only one 100 pointer ? Are you getting conservative ?

You should come next year, Herwig, for our Xth anniversary ! From nov 8 to nov 11 : put that as a priority in your agenda !

This is the good life.

I visited Como for the first time this year and can imagine how wonderful it would be in this quiet time of year. Didn’t have as good wine as you, though!

Did you eat or drink anything good on your trip?

Hands down post of the year. Congrats.

Amazing report and photographs, thank you.

How is your liver?

You have a far better liver than mine!

I ate it with a fine Chianti

As always my first response to Kevin’s write-ups is that, after reading, it was almost like being there

There is no use in me posting my notes given Kevin’s yeoman work.

The Villa d’Este Wine Symposium is such a unique event. Kevin and I have been blessed with so many friends that we have made over the years both through the Grand Jury (we love you Francois) and now the evolution of the Wine Symposium (hard to believe it will be 10 years next November). Great time of year to not only be at Villa d’Este but to also be in such close proximity to the Langhe and some of the greatest restaurants in the world during truffle season.

I would like to give a special shout-out to one of the producers that poured their wines during the event : Von Winning. Stephan Attman and Andreas Hutwohl are making amazing wines. The Riesling Ungeheuer GG (I think it was the 2016) was stunning in its purity and depth. A wine I am on the hunt for.

I am willing to draw and evaluate liver function testing on you both, gratis. Biopsies too if indicated.

I’m in awe.

Dear Glenn : I am anxious to get the results ! Finally, I am responsible for these guys !

Any lawyer in the room to help me ?

Some serious eating and drinking Kevin. When one dinner is not enough, follow up with another one.

Jeremy,
I wanna be like you. Your annual trip to France is something that I always look forward to reading.

Agree Kevin. I want to like Jeremy when I grow up … but in the mean time, we strive.

Kelly … I’m curious about your singling out of the Von Winning wines. Can you elaborate a bit about why they grabbed your attention? At first , the barrique model for Riesling scares me a bit but I like to keep an open mind…

I lost my tns on Von Winning wines. I thought they were intense yet very pure and energetic. There was only one wine that was aged in new oak barrel and I really loved it, reminding me an excellent 1er crus white Burgundy.

Here a report in english done and written by Angelique de Lencquesaing who manage in France IDEALWINE, an auction House specialized in wines.

It is an other style but it shows very well what we achieved at Villa d’Este !

While I generally agree with regard to Jeremy H, the length and quality of reporting, Kevin, comes second to none. Thanks for the great and detailed notes!