Here a video into to many wines tasted from bottle earlier this month.
How good are Bordeaux 2015 from bottle? Based on two days of tasting top Médoc wines in early November 2017, I would say quite good.
For complete version, more videos and pictures: http://wine-chronicles.com/blog/2015-bordeaux-from-bottle-part-1-mostly-medoc-wines/
It does not seem to reach the heights, on a more generalized level, of the 2016 vintage. In some cases – particularly in the northern Médoc – 2014 rivals and sometimes beats 2015.
The golden nugget in 2015?
As discovered from barrel tastings, the Margaux appellation’s veritable heights are unmatched by either 2016 or 2014. I pack many of my top Médoc wines at this early stage from bottle (among those tasted) with Margaux AOC wines.
It was a glorious time – and glorious Indian Summer like weather – tasting through scores of wines, often single blind, on Thursday and Friday, 2-3 November, with noted Bordeaux wine critic and wine author Jane Anson and Yohan Castaing, whose excellent blog https://www.anthocyanes.fr is worth reading if you can understand French.
Although we tasted most of the classified growths, along with a few Cru Bourgeois level wines, we did not assess Haut Brion, Latour and Mouton Rothschild.
But we got to most all 1855 classification wines, beginning with Château Margaux, which in my book gets wine of the vintage among all Médoc wines tasted.
We ended tastings on Friday 3 November at Château Pichon Longueville Baron, where we assessed many Pauillacs blind, including the Baron, which is excellent in 2015.
Overall the Pauillacs were solid to great, lacking the consistency of 2016. Certainly 2014 can give 2015 in Pauillac a run for its money: from GPL to Pichon Comtesse, 2014 is a vintage that offers high quality at more affordable prices. While I enjoyed many Saint Juliens, I felt they were overall solid to great, but not spectacular with the exceptions of LLC and Ducru Beaucaillou.
The big surprise was how well the Saint Estephes did. For example an excellent Calon Segur and an even more surprising Cos d’Estournel that tasted far better now from bottle than from barrel. To me at least.
I will do part 2 perhaps in December, depending on whether I return to Bordeaux, and part 3 certainly in January 2018 after the UGCB tour. If I do not return to Bordeaux next month, there will only be a part 2 for the January tastings.
Morning visits to Châteaux Margaux, Palmer and Lafite Rothschild
As most readers know, each château features at least two wines (first and seconds) but at Lafite, we also tried other wines from the same owner, including Evangile, Duhart Milon, Rieussec … Overall, very positive experiences. With the wine of the vintage candidate shining most bright 
- 2015 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Like many of the Margaux I tasted in November 2017, this one from bottle gets a note on the higher end of my rating scale from en primeur. Bottled at the beginning of July, it shows beautiful red berry fruit with focused intensity and licorice, leading to crushed fruit, red and blue, on the palate, with much freshness and twang from the acidity. The energy is matched by a lovely svelte palate that epitomizes Margaux elegance. 50% new barrel and 14% alcohol. Best ever second wine from this estate? (95 pts.) - 2015 Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
I rarely if ever give 100 points to such young wines, but this one gets it. And while tasting with Jane Anson of Decanter, we both agreed. “If you cannot give 100 points to the top wine from the top appellation in a given vintage, to which wine can you do so?” she quipped. I agree. This was to be Paul Pontallier’s final vintage sadly. And 2015 marks the 200th anniversary of the estate. So all the stars aligned to yield an exceptional wine, surely overpriced, but just amazing. 14% alcohol as well, and its August bottling actually muted its glory somewhat in early November, but still: Gorgeous dark fruit aspect on the nose turning to floral (violets) with aeration, and not super ripe with a healthy 3,65 pH. I call it “deep freshness” with Merlots lending opulence to the structure of the Cabernets. The feeling on the palate is tannic suave as you almost want to eat this wine, given the texture. Tannin levels were high, approaching that of 2009. Oak? 100% super integrated, nary a sense of stick. And give credit to the precision of 96 tanks used to afford the most careful parcel by parcel vinification, with only 35 percent of the harvest going into this veritably grand vin. (100 pts.) - 2015 Alter Ego de Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Bottled at the end of August and perhaps more muted now than it would be in January 2018, but still, it fulfills the promise from barrel. At 14% alcohol, the combined richness and elegance, with bright red fruit and floral aspects, even somewhat herbal, leading to a palate of cassis black fruit with a lip smacking juicy aspect. With the Alter Ego, “we focus on aromatic maturity,” said Thomas Duroux and this has it in spades. A real pleasure. Bravo! (93 pts.) - 2015 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
This blend of 50 percent Cabernet, 44 percent Merlot and 6 percent Petit Verdot has a somewhat tighter aspect as compared to the Alter Ego, with superior depth as well. I love the vivid expressions of ripe fruit, with a rich palate, matched by tannic power on the palate: the 80 tannic index is rather high for the vintage, with 14.2 percent alcohol. In 2015, Palmer takes a back seat to Margaux, as these two wines are often the two top wines of the appellation each year. In any case, the overall sense is a wine that is not quite as pristinely refined as the Margaux, but still a stellar performance of opulence and depth. (96 pts.) - 2015 Château Duhart-Milon - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (11/2/2017)
Tasted after Château Palmer and noticeably a climb down. I do think that 2014 rivals this 2015 - and that 2016 will be better. Having said all this, Duhart-Milon is a fine bottle of wine in 2015, both rich and expressive, with smooth tannins and a cool tobacco note on the long finish. I would just say that there have been superior density levels from this wine. (92 pts.) - 2015 Carruades de Lafite - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (11/2/2017)
For the lofty price you pay for this second wine, I would pass. About 35% of harvest went to make the Carruades and as estate director said estate director Eric Koehler. He also said that - unlike 2014 - more careful selection was needed because of the rains. Certainly a bit thinner than Duhart even if perhaps a bit more finesse.
Still, it lacks the veritable stuffing one would expect from a Pauillac of this calibre, even if it is certainly drinkable with what the French call
buvabilité… A bit more of vrac however - 25% in 2015: A year of selection, he said. (88 pts.) - 2015 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (11/2/2017)
Yes, I do realize that tasting young Lafites is not the easiest thing to do. Compared to, say, Mouton or Haut Brion, Lafite Rothschild is far more reticent in expression. And - as one trader said recently - it is getting harder to taste older ones as they are all in China. But I digress. About 40% of the harvest made it into this 2015 vintage. Bottled in June, and here we have more expression indeed than in the Carruades, with lovely finesse on the nose, certainly floral and pencil lead aspects (although you get those, too, in Leoville Las Cases, and even more pronounced at this stage). Time in glass reveals superb elegance and subtle strength through to the finish especially, as the tannins and structure are felt. An excellent wine indeed, but shorter on the finish than the glorious Château Margaux, by comparison, and not quite as dense either. It is as if Lafite is acting as a Margaux in 2015. That is not bad at all, but it does not match up to Margaux as the top first growth. And of course, it ain’t cheap. (96 pts.) - 2015 Blason de l’Evangile - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (11/2/2017)
Here a case of saving the really good stuff for the first wine. The overall negative impression is that of too much stewed fruit for such a young wine. Rich and smooth, yes, but a tad soupy and warm on the finish. Lots of young Cabernet Franc lends some freshness but not enough to make this anything more than a “high 80s” wine at best. (87 pts.) - 2015 Château L’Evangile - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (11/2/2017)
Wow. Just wow. What opulence, what focused ripe dark fruit and freshness, too, with loads of spicy fun. 14.5% alcohol? Not really felt, and this with 90% new oak. I really loved the 2016, but the 2015 is at least an equal from bottle. The finish is sexy and exciting and long, with the sense of balance following through. Weight and lift. Lifting weights? No, just pleasure. (97 pts.) - 2015 Carmes de Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (11/2/2017)
OK, it is pleasant enough but where is the botrytis? It would be wiser to spend your hard earned money on a lesser known first wine from Sauternes than on this second, which seems more like sweet fruit juice than a Sauternes. (86 pts.) - 2015 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (11/2/2017)
An excellent Sauternes! One of my preferences from barrel, it fulfills the promise so far, as it will be bottled in January. The tidal wave of density and depth has receded just a bit, and shows more complexity along with gorgeous notes of botrytis spice. There is very pleasing roasted fruit as well as white stone fruit matching that spice, with density and power throughout the palate. About 60% new oak. (95 pts.)
Blind tasting of Margaux classified growths, part 1
Overall very good wines here including some of the top in the vintage. Best Prieuré Lichine I have ever tried.
- 2015 Château Marquis d’Alesme - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Far better from bottle than from cask, which was marked by more austerity. This wine could be worth your while - and wallet. The first of 19 Margaux AOCs tasted blind at Château Dauzac, the Marquis d’Alesme exudes a fresh, floral nose. The palate conveys a robust character, with smooth tannins that get a bit imposing on the finish, but smooth overall. A tad austere on the finish. Give it time. Time in bottle should resolve things of course. (92 pts.) - 2015 Château Rauzan-Ségla - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Fulfills the promise from barrel, with a pure expression of fruit and refined tannins, albeit structured and powerful on the finish. There is a kind of iron like richness, as the finish exudes more a strict tannic structure. Still, ripe fruit throughout, with a long finish marked by gorgeous floral aromatics. (95 pts.) - 2015 Château Rauzan-Gassies - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Tasted just after what turned out to be neighbor Rauzan-Segla, this wine seemed more “open knit” both aromatically and on the palate, which is nice and smooth. Lovely expressions of ripe fruit with a tannic grip, as well: the concentration is felt more on the finish, which lingers pleasingly. What is pleasing is that it is performs even better than from barrel. Indeed the oak is already better integrated than it was from cask. (92 pts.) - 2015 Château Dauzac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Well, well, well. More than fulfills its promise from barrel, this estate. While the 2014 came across as a bit too oaky and “modern” from bottle when I tasted it last year, the 2015 is just great. I love the deep, floral nose. This has loads of power and fruit, a bit austere on the finish, but that is normal - and will calm down with a few years of bottle aging. (93 pts.) - 2015 Château Kirwan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Of course tasting wines that have been recently bottled means taking into account a certain closed nature, which I found more pronounced with Kirwan. It meets the hopes from barrel however, with ripe fruit concentration on the mid palate, and a smooth tannic grain leading to a long and pleasing finish. Look forward to re-evaluating in January. (92 pts.) - 2015 Château Ferrière - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Tasted just after the Kirwan, I though this was a Pauillac. Seems more tannic and edgy, with impressive grip. Like the Kirwan, a bit closed in, but time in glass revealed a bit of menthol along with dark fruit. (91 pts.) - 2015 Château Prieuré-Lichine - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Yes, I will go out on a limb and say that this may be the best Prieuré-Lichine I have ever tasted from bottle. More than fulfilling its promise from barrel, this wine conveys aromatic opulence, with white flowers and dark fruit. There is grip and ripe fruit as well throughout the palate. Shows much “stuffing” as well as poise. A truly fine Margaux to please palates – give it at least five years in bottle before cracking open. (95 pts.) - 2015 Château Desmirail - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
The over oaky nose from barrel lives on in bottle, darkening my perspective for this wine that was more optimistic initially. If anything, a charry, oaky nose seems to overcome the fruit and concentration on the palate more than it did from barrel. (87 pts.) - 2015 Château d’Issan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Issan fulfills its promise from barrel. A hint of oak - maybe I was made more sensitive with the Desmirail, tasted blind just before - but far better balance on the nose. I like this wine’s suave nature and ultra smooth delivery. Perhaps so close to bottling, its evident aromatic charms from barrel were muted. It has tannic backbone, too, so give it time in bottle. May be better in January 2018, but for now, I will be a bit conservative. (94 pts.) - 2015 Château Durfort-Vivens - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Overall, a wine that seems to be getting riper and richer - as opposed to many previous vintages. I like the bout of jammy fruit and even a bit heady on the finish. But it lacks the depth and nuance of the upper echelons in this blind tasting of classified Margaux AOC. First bottle was faulty, but second was sound. (90 pts.)
Blind tasting of Margaux classified growths, part 2
More excellent Margaux AOC classified growths tasted blind, at Château Dauzac.
- 2015 Château Malescot St. Exupéry - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
An excellent Malescot from bottle and clearly better than it was from barrel. Lovely nose, fruit driven, open and floral. This has a very friendly attitude throughout the palate, seemed to embrace the Margaux delicacy while showing underlying depth on the palate. Long finish, too. (94 pts.) - 2015 Château Giscours - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Another bottle, another gorgeous Margaux, with Giscours having more weight than it showed from bottle. It seems downright “tannin driven,” even armored, but with the svelte of Margaux in mind! Ripe red and dark fruits indeed, with a rich overlay on the tannin and long finish. Lovely! (94 pts.) - 2015 Château du Tertre - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Tasted blind, Du Tertre seems just a bit simple as compared to some of its peers in 2015. A pleasure in that is conveys both ample structure and ripe fruit, but not quite the depth or potential complexity of the better wines here. (91 pts.) - 2015 Château Lascombes - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
In recent years, Lascombes has been lowering its über oak emphasis. And the wine? It has gotten much better. 2015 is a case in point. Thank goodness we asked for a second bottle in this blind tasting, as the first seemed off. So what do you get? Loads of rich, ripe fruit … and freshness, yielding a fine balance. Bravo! I guessed Brane Cantenac and got Lascombes: How about that? (94 pts.) - 2015 Château Brane-Cantenac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
One of the best Branes I can recall. I really liked the 2005 and here we find a similarly structured wine, but with more aromatic depth. More than fulfills its promise from barrel, which was already very high. What do you get from the wine, so close to its bottling? An opulent nose and an opulent palate. And what it shows as well is a rare power that one is more accustomed to getting from, say, Rauzan-Segla. Just a great wine. (96 pts.) - 2015 Château Marquis de Terme - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
When I wrote a story about this estate for Decanter last year, I was impressed with the steps being taken to improve quality. For example, their 2014 is more interesting than the 2010, as the selection process has been improved and the vinification is better. From barrel, I liked the sumptuousness, which shows through again in bottle: A lovely, fruit driven nose. Smooth and refined on the palate with a hint of oak. (93 pts.) - 2015 Château Pouget - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Along with Desmirail, this estate counts as one of two clear disappointments from the appellation in 2015. An oak dominated nose precedes an oak dominated palate. The finish is drying. What the heck? (87 pts.) - 2015 Château Cantenac Brown - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
The best Cantenac Brown I have ever had. I was not so impressed from barrel and probably misjudged it. Just bottled, it comes across as solid and delicious, showcasing both power and elegance. There is much breadth to this wine. Bravo! (95 pts.) - 2015 Château Boyd-Cantenac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/2/2017)
Spicy and rich nose. A bit of harder tannin here than was experienced tasting the Cantenac Brown but just chalk that up to resolve in bottle aging. I like the backbone and a certain freshness that I had experienced from barrel. It just lacks the opulence of the Cantenac Brown. (92 pts.)
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