I had an appointment at the Embassy, so I had to be in Berlin Friday morning. Because of the timing I was taking a bus, and left a good chunk of the afternoon free. This ended up being my good luck, as Martin Zwick invited me to lunch.
Martin lives in an absolutely beautiful, classic Berlin apartment. Very large, with moulded ceilings (also wood-framed with original art), and beautifully furnished. I got there early (11:30), which was good because the bus trip was an all-nighter with no sleep, and I was tired and hungry. The weather was chilly, but with sunny skies, and Martin had made a potato gratin - rich, delicious and it went well with red and white.
I brought a bottle:
1982 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino
But I was left with no good option with its transport, so I carried it upright the whole way. (At the embassy they were great about not laying it down and putting it through the scanner) Still, it had had a rough ride for an old gal. The cork was in great shape and came out cleanly. The first taste was a bit cloudy, muted, and tired. I was digging around in it, but, although interesting, it wasn’t offering up much.
Not to worry. Martin had a 2010 Keller Hubacker ready when I came in. Very beautiful, but at first taste it felt like there was more to be had. Then with the meal he brought out a 2004 Poggione. This was the real deal - fresh, full, grippy, and still tasting quite young (also at the right temperature). After an hour or so I went back to the 82. It had calmed down and cleared up. The nose was coming along, and the on the palate was much better, with tobacco. leather, and a touch of carmel in the back. Still, it would have been better a few years ago (and with better treatment). Martin said it was on the edge. I said it was over the edge, but still interesting. Coming back to the Riesling at the end of lunch was great. It had really opened up and the nose poured out of the glass. Very alive and fresh in the mouth.
The whole thing was a big treat for me. It turned a grueling, annoying chore into a real highlight. Warm welcome, delicious lunch, great wine, good conversation…
Thanks Martin!
