I’ve been thinking for some time that Grand Cru WB is more prone to oxidation than “lesser” wines. I formed that impression through sporadic encounters rather than systematic enquiry – a Batard from a producer somewhat advanced tasting, then a month or so later a 1er cru that still needs years for example. So I thought I would pay homage to the humble Village Puligny for a month to check in on how these are holding up. Based on this, I would certainly encourage people to cellar and enjoy the Village offerings; I had a great time, not exactly slumming it ! They were just how WB “should” age. Over the course of a couple of weeks, I had the following, usually over a couple of days and with dinners:
• Carillon Puligny Montrachet 2005 (x2)
• Carillon Puligny Montrachet 2001
• Carillon Puligny Montrachet 2002
• JM Boillot Puligny Montrachet 2005
Not a single one was oxidised, let alone prematurely. The ’05 Carillon probably the stand out, some fruit sweetness and reductive complexity, mainly minerally. And quite consistent across both bottles. The ’02 had a touch of nougat developing, probably the most developed tasting, more so than the ’01 that was quite steely, nuts and iodine. The only one that wasn’t better on day 2 was the JM Boillot, certainly not oxidised but perhaps more ambitious oak treatment than the fruit needed. Lacked integration on day 2, but still quite a good effort.
So is a major driver of oxidation, or the propensity to oxidise prematurely, actually about the extract levels? By having more weight, more extract, do the grander wines actually just have more stuff to oxidise?
If there is truth to this hypothesis, I would think it would have more to do with the higher appellations being more ‘worked’ - more new oak, for longer; more battonage (inc. after the completion of malo). I have found the Lafon’s Perrières is more likely to be premoxed than the Clos de la Barre, and always assumed that was for this reason.
The higher appellations didn’t suddenly become more weighty in the premox era, so I think that thesis is a blind alley.
I had a bottle of the same 2005 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet on October 10th and it was Horribly oxidized… I’m glad to hear your was doing better than mine, and my point does not prove anything, but I still see it as a luck of the draw set up…
It is only that - a hypothesis. And I realise my sampling is far from statistically valid, though would be happy to correct that with lots of help ! I’m interested in what others have experienced, particularly where you have aged vintages from a producer up and down the hierarchy.
! They were just how WB “should” age. Over the course of a couple of weeks, I had the following, usually over a couple of days and with dinners: