TN: 1947 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

  • 1947 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/8/2017)
    At first there’s a smell of spent fireworks. A few hours in the decanter unlocks the real fireworks. There are notes of molasses, chocolate, tar, truffle, raisins, earth and leather. Some volatility punches sweet florals up into the nostrils. It is full and rich, with a nice interplay between the sweet and the savoury. There’s still some chew to the long finish.

Posted from CellarTracker

Thanks for the note! Had that wine twice and been very good both times. Pretty amazing.

Thank you for the note. I have one of these in the cellar, as well as a bottle of the Cannubi version, that I plan to open next month for a 70th birthday celebration. I plan to stand them up a couple of weeks in advance and decant 2-3 hours ahead of time.

I’d decant for a bit longer David, maybe 6-8 hours.

I used to drink a bit of this in Sydney when the Gavania Brothers were importing it, used to decant it in the morning before work for dinner that night

+1, this wine greatly benefited from air.

Will do, thank you for the advice.

Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1947 : 17/20 - 2/7/2022
An excellent old Barolo, meaty, smoky (with spices, Vermouth, mushrooms … and still fruity with sour cherry). Faded tannins (with time), good acidity, length. Great longevity and no traces of these evolved notes I sometimes regret/fear in younger Barolos (umami, soy sauce, nuoc-mam, viandox … depending on your cultural landmarks). Not easy to guess the origin (around the table, I heared : Pessac-Léognan, Burgundy and of course also Rioja Lopez de Heredia Tondonia).

Thanks Laurent for your note. What good timing, as I’m planning to open our second bottle of this for a 75th birthday celebration later this year. First bottle opened for a 70th birthday dinner 5 years ago was excellent, just as you’ve described.

Still a 6-8 hour decant?

A magnificent old Barolo that seems to be immortal, I’ve been opening these over the past decade and they always seem to be in stasis, some minor bottle variation, but always outstanding. Glad I still have some left :slight_smile:

You’re crazy if you do anything but P&P with a 75 year old wine.

Call me crazy. This bottle 5 years ago was much better after sitting in the decanter for 6 hours.

Completely disagree. Especially old Barolo. I prefer an Audouze in the morning and then decant about 4 hours before the event. Taste at that point and it usually wants more air, but if it’s over the hill, you can cap it off. I’ve been at events where people subscribe to your beliefs and try to PnP old wines and it’s usually disappointing.

I don’t do such an extreme decant on these, I stand up a week or two in advance, remove the cork in the morning, give it a sniff. If it smells “off” I leave it to “Audouze”, checking back on it ever hour or two. Totally subjective, I know, but when I feel those funky aromas have mostly dissipated, I drop a T cork in it until close to service. An hour or so in advance I’ll decant off sediment, and we’re ready to go and watch it evolve in the glass. System has worked out very well for many bottles of this, as well as other quite old Barolo. There is no question in my mind that this wine improves with air, but I guess you could argue “how much”.

I must be crazy. It is counterintuitive, but a long and vigorous decant works on young, middle-aged and very old Barolo and Barbaresco.

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