BIG 50 LUNCH - Mi Casa (10/22/2017)
Nine of DCwinos got together for a long lunch. I met Chef Monnier in early August when Tom M generously hosted the Produttori dinner at Arome in Baltimore. I thought the dishes were creative, pure, precise and perfectly executed. I contacted Chef and he gladly accepted my proposal. He went above and beyond and created an incredible eight course meal. As usual, everyone was incredibly generous and we had a blast!
Champagne
It was a beautiful sunny autumn afternoon. We enjoyed the champagnes in the backyard patio. Both showed well.
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1996 Dom Perignon Champagne Oenothèque - France, Champagne
One of the more decadent and ready examples, decadent yellow fruit, lemon curd, tarte tatin, honey, sweet spices, brioche and mineral. Excellent concentration, decadent yellow fruit driven palate impression, fine generous mousse, excellent density, good mineral presence, bright acidity and a long sweet yellow fruit and mineral driven finish. This particular bottle has reached the peak. Excellent showing. (97 pts.) -
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut - France, Champagne
What I go crazy about Rose is the hint of a mature Burgundian nose, i.e. subtle sweet red fruit and sous bois and this wine has it. Beautiful complex nose displaying subtle red fruit, strawberry, raspberry tart, cherry, a hint of sous bois, sweet spices, copper and strong limestone. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered, fine abundant mousse, subtle sweet red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long subtle red fruit finish with copper/mineral at the end. I am really loving it and hoping that it will develop like the 85 Dom Rose. Looking back at the price trend for this wine, not a bad one to own. (97 pts.)
Marcassin Chardonnay
Very good showing of Marcassins!
Osetra Caviar
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2008 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Very mineral driven nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, lemon curd, a hint of crème brulee, burnt sugar and sweet spices. There is a hint of heat at the end. Excellent concentration, very steely mineral, pineapple and sweet spices driven palate impression, bright acidity and a long decadent yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of alcohol at the end. The mineral presence is impressive. If you have low tolerance for alcohol or ripeness, this is not for you. This is an excellent modern style Domestic Chardonnay. (96 pts.) -
2009 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Decadent yellow fruit driven nose, once again pineapple, also crème brulee, pina colada, butter scotch, toasted oak, caramel, honey and mineral. There is a hint of heat. Excellent concentration, quite dense and oily, decadent yellow fruit and honey driven palate impression, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a long decadent yellow fruit and honey driven finish. Once again a hint of alcohol at the end. The fruit seems riper as the wine displays less mineral than the 08. This is more opulent and denser than the 08. (94 pts.) -
2010 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Youthful ripe yellow fruit driven nose, peach, pineapple, lemon curd, white flowers, a hint of black truffle, sweet spices, butter scotch, honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, generous opulent yellow fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. Once again a hint of heat at the end. More primary fruit driven than the 08 and 09. Very opulent and flamboyant showing. (96 pts.)
White Burgundy
I love the 14 whites. The 14 PYCM Chevalier rocks! The other two were not entirely premoxed but a bit tired.
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2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
For my palate, Chevalier Montrachet is noble, it is all about finesse, purity and balance. It is perhaps the most intense and concentrated Chevalier of my life, a bit of Batard. Expressive nose displaying sweet succulent yellow and white fruit, lemon curd, poached pear, a hint of flint, honey, smoke and crushed rock. Unbelievably concentrated and layered, dense, ripe and oily yet pure, fresh and energetic, mouth puckering acidity, strong mineral presence and a never ending finish. This is a sensory overload. (98 pts.) -
2002 Louis Jadot Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Similar to the last bottle from 2012. Pop and pour, a bit clumsy, ripe and advanced. All of us think that it is premoxed. With a couple hours of air, it freshens up a bit and the color becomes a bit lighter. However, It remains ripe and a bit cloying. Barry acquired upon release and kept in perfect condition. NR (flawed) -
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Once again from Kelly’s cellar. The last bottle was close to perfect. This seems a bit advanced. The same case, one glorious, one borderline premox. NR (flawed)
Barolo and Barbaresco
The Rionda was memorable as usual.
3 oz, actually pretty good showing.
Squash and white truffle in a brioche
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1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Collina Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Unbelievably youthful intense nose displaying decadent red and black fruit, dry cherry, blackberry jam, candied rose petal, tar, sap, strong iron/rust a la Monfortino, anise, black truffle, limestone and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of decadent black fruit, unctuous yet silky and polished, incredible iron and mineral presence, bright acidity and still a hint of tannins. The finish that never ends. Perhaps the most youthful and intense example of this wine. It is so youthful that it can improve for another two decades or more. Monumental immortal wine. (100 pts.) -
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Expressive masculine nose displaying dry red fruit, dry cherry, dry tomato, dry fig, rust, iron, beef blood, roasted nut and earth. Excellent concentration, a bit chunky and rustic, good acidity, strong earthy mineral and a medium to long dry red fruit and rust driven finish. It is an old school masculine Barbaresco with impressive concentration. Seems a bit rustic and monolithic next to the 78 Rionda. (93 pts.) -
1967 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Speciale - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Pop and pour in the morning. Tired and maderized. Chestnut, roasted fruit, remnants of dry cherry, strong va and madeira. Six hours later, not much improvement. NR (flawed)
Red Burgundy
Paul was a doubter but now he is a believer of Comte Liger Belair!
Matsutake mushroom dumplings, pear and ginger tea
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2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
Strong DRC stem/green and exotic Vosne spice hit you first. Expressive youthful nose displaying decadent black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of raspberry, roasted nuts, floral dust, perfume, stem, Asian medicine, caramel, sap, mocha, crushed rock, black pepper, baking spices and earthy mineral. Excellent concentration, floral and mineral dust, nicely layered youthful black fruit, good acidity, strong mineral presence, still noticeable but fine tannins and a long black fruit and Vosne spice driven finish. Showing strong DRC stem note that needs to integrate more. Neither the most concentrated nor layered La Tache but still a classic expression of La Tache that needs time. (97 pts.) -
2009 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
Intense yet perfectly harmonious nose displaying sweet red and black fruit, raspberry tart, strawberry rhubarb tart, blackberry jelly, stem, a hint of Vosne spice, mocha, sweet spices and limestone. Despite being youthful, it’s showing perfect balance and harmony. A palate to die for, so finely layered pure red and black fruit, airy like a great D’Yuqem or Amoureuse, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence and a seamless finish that resonates. Perhaps it is a Jedi mind trick, this brings back a fond memory of the 94 Jayer Crox Parantoux I had twenty years ago for less than $200 at a restaurant in Dijon. The epitome of finesse and balance. (99 pts.)
Yquem
Although the 67 D’Yqume is my birth year wine, I seem to always prefer the 75 and this was no exception.
A whole lobe of foie gras
Chef Monnier and a whole lobe of foie gras
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1975 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Finally starting to show maturity. Perfectly harmonious unbelievably complex nose displaying apricot, dry apricot, red currant, candied orange peel, a hint of medicine, crème bruless, candied ginger, botrytis, spicy spices and coppery mineral. Perfectly harmonious and balanced palate, classic airy cotton candy like D’Yquem texture, so finely layered, spicy/botrytis mouthfeel, bright acidity, coppery mineral and a seamless long apricot, red currant and ginger driven finish. Incredibly airy texture, intensity, purity, balance and harmony make this perfect! IMO, two of the greatest D’yquems made since 1950 are the 75 and 01. (100 pts.) -
1967 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Expressive deeply tone nose displaying decadent dry yellow and red fruit, dry apricot, dry mango, peach cobbler, orange marmalade, butter scotch, toffee, honey, candied ginger and spicy spices. Still showing incredible concentration, deeply toned dense yellow fruit, dense yet fluid and precise, bright acidity and a long decadent yellow fruit and honey driven finish. For my palate, one of the most concentrated and dense D’Yquem since the 50. Perhaps the best wine made in my birth year. However, I prefer the energy and precision of the 75. (98 pts.)
75 LMHB
This showed perfect in magnum format.
Grilled duck with beet and red Dulse
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1975 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
En magnum, splash decanting. Explosive complex nose displaying decadent slightly dry black fruit, crème de cassis, plum, milky chocolate, caramel, wet tobacco, leather, black truffle, a hint of cedar and a hint of scorched earth. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of decadent black fruit and tobacco, still unctuous yet silky and polished and still a hint of fine tannins. The finish is incredibly long. This reminds me the 59 Latour drank fifteen years ago, i.e. fully mature and perfectly harmonious yet retains the concentrated rich fruit and noticeable structure. En magnum, this is perfect. (100 pts.)
50s Bordeaux
The 55 La Mission Haut Brion was perfect. No real consensus for WOTF.
Pheasant cooked in hay
Pheasant cooked in hay, celeriac tagliatelle , hay sauce and green juniper berry
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1955 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Unbelievably complex hedonistic nose displaying decadent black fruit, black cherry, blackberry jam, a hint of crème de cassis, black truffle, cedar, caramel, ash, forest floor, eucalyptus and earth. There is a hint of VA that adds sweetness and complexity. Perfectly harmonious palate, silky and polished, very finely layered decadent black fruit, bright acidity, still a hint of tannins and a long black fruit and cedar driven finish. For my palate, there are different stages of peak and this has reached nirvana. (100 pts.) -
1959 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Black hole of wine, intense nose displaying intense deeply toned black fruit, cassis, blackberry jam, licorice, ink, a hint of mint, mocha, roasted nuts, mint, chocolate, leather and cedar. Perfectly integrated palate, finely layered rich black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity, fully resolved tannins and a long incredible dark fruit driven finish. The fruit expression is intense and black. A memorable wine but I prefer the 75 and the 55 LMHB slightly for the richness and complexity. (98 pts.) -
1959 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Youthful expressive nose displaying ripe black fruit, cassis, ink, plum, cedar, a hint of VA, leather, mint and earth. Very good concentration, intense cassis driven palate impression, silky and polished, still showing a hint of tannins and a long cassis driven finish. The wine remains very youthful. Excellent showing. (96 pts.)
Faiveley Musigny
It was a last minute addition, really needed more air.
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1969 Faiveley Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Impromptu addition, pop and pour, showing a lot of soy and steely mineral, slightly advanced impression. With air, starts to show subtle raspberry and blackberry, sous bois, rose, sweet spices and mineral. Fully integrated palate, showing a hint of soy and subtle red fruit, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a medium finish. This would have shown better if slow oxed/adouzed. The stem with only a drop showed a beautiful floral nose. (93 pts.)
Brandy
The 1818 was excellent despite served out of the last third.
Kiwi berries tart, sweet clover pastry cream, matcha tea
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1818 Unknown Grande Champagne Cognac Tuileries Reserve Grand Champagne Napoleon - France, Cognac, Grande Champagne Cognac
From the last third. There is a decadent sweetness and intensity. A lot of caramel and strong cedar. Really complex expression. Something very unique. -
1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Marc de Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Marc de Bourgogne
Deeply toned, sweet caramel and very complex. As usual there is a hint of sharp heat at the end. Incredibly generous gift from Barry. The perfect way to end the evening.
We were having so much fun that the lunch lasted seven hours! My sincere gratitude goes to the Chef and the guests.
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