Did you think we were done? We’re not done!
It is a true joy to be with Mikhail, Sveta and their son Zach. My friend Glenn came into town to join us for dinner
The leftover 2001 Valdicava Brunello was even more memorable than the night before.
2015 Keller Scheurebe had a very accessible bouquet of lilac, peach and marmalade. Quite sweet to taste, it still was balanced by a requisite thread of acidity, with aromatic replays
2014 Pollak Meritage was a chance for me to assess this wine more fully. You can tell it has CF in the blend, there is a muted green component in the sniffer, but on the palate, this has a velvet sweet and slightly rich presentation. Not a lot of depth, but maybe that’s not what this is shooting for. Good quaffing to be had here.
2005 Paumanok Assemblage was a treat for me to get to try an older Paumanok. There is immediately for me a tomatoes and meat sauce element to both the nose and mouth. But in the best way I’ve seen those things, because it melds into fairly robust red plum and berry fruit. That integration just gets more seamless as time in the glass is added, and there might indeed be some Bordeaux qualities of pencil shavings and sliver of tabac by the end. I started thinking it was interesting and wondering if I’d enjoy it, but I didn’t have to wonder by the end of the night—I enjoyed it!
I can always count on my very stalwart friend, Jay Miller, to organize a crack OL. He came through again in flying colours as we descended on Ping Seafood restaurant. They had a nice big round table for us with good service (albeit a couple of quickly-corrected dish glitches) and splendid Peking duck and fried rice dishes.
DRAMATIS PERSONAE
Jay Miller
Thomas Rippe
Benjamin and Lynn Chew
Yon Befuddled Recorder
Dan and Janice Hammer
Marc Hanes
Kaitlyn Kacsuda
Derek Polzien (sorry! my lame brain left you off the initial posted list–glad to have connected with you!)
Christophe Mignon Brut Nature
A NV, from 100% Pinot Meunier. Has some overt red-fruitedness about the overall scents and some apple peel. Very tasty! It has grassy apple but also a delightful streak of lime and pepper. Very individual and authoritative
2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
More heft here, baked bread, hint of limoncello. Smooth, deep, caresses your mouth. If it doesn’t have quite the depth and finish of the 02, it has arguably more in reserve than that wine in terms of palate colour. I have been very spoiled to taste 3 vintages of Comtes already on this trip.
2001 Weingut Knoll Gruner Veltliner Loibner Schutt
Stylish nose with hay, slight smoke and mineral all poking their heads up. Quite fascinatingly atypical (compared, at least, to younger Gruvee) with a very silky, almost creamy, feel and key lime pie notes. Very glad to have the chance to taste.
2010 Antica Azienda Paolo Bea Arboreus
Another fascinating wine. 100% Trebbiano. Bits of sultana raisin, bits of date, but bits of citrusy sunshine too. To taste, bit of oxidative, get the dried pineapple. In an obscure way, it reminds me of a Vina Tondonia Bianco…and that impression (some cream cheese/waxy maybe?) is only reinforced with subsequent sips from the glass. Another one I was very happy to try.
2014 Keller Kirchspiel Ries
Delineated—crisp, unripe melon and Mirabelle plum. Precise in the mouth—young, but vervy with lime, lemon and apple all in play. I liked it, but less presence than some other Kellers.
2011 Thomas Haag Schloss Lieser Juffer Sonnenuhr Ries
My, my! Cinnamon candy apple. Definitely gets there. Kinetic to a degree, but also perhaps on the too-correct side vs. having its own identity as yet. Probably just too young.
2010 A.J. Adam Hofberg Ries
Dan mentioned he had mistaken the identity of this bottle. Oh well, such is life. It was a happy accident in this case. Star fruit and a hint of light herbs accents the bouquet. And when it hits your tongue…WOW. That has zap. So vibrant at the tip of the tongue. And continues with lemon and apple main. You can like a wine that is so full of life. #2 tonight.
2007 Rhys Alpine Pinot Noir
Evocative earth start and then cocoa, coffee, strawberry and sweet rhubarb join the fray. Dans la bouche, this is super stuff. Polished and deep and beautifully secure in its earth-strawberry-cherry presentation. Maybe the best Rhys red I’ve ever had. WOTN
1997 Domaine J. Chamonard le Clos de Lys Morgon
Minty “feel” to it, dried berries and dirt. This is terribly interesting too. Like the memory of Gamay, an artist’s rendering maybe. Almost no fruit left, but still active acid and structure here to hold what this is together. Very interesting indeed.
2010 Sojourn Sangiacomo Pinot Noir
Glad Dan and Janice brought this—I drank through mine years ago. Strawberry and some underlying plum aromatics. Palate finds this settled, with Erich’s signature high level of richness. Complete, this is sure-footed if a little one-dimensional. Very gulpable, though a very little spike in alcohol/heat.
2012 Michel Noellat Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts
After some time in the glass, that does smell nice—perfume and raspberry and lots of hidden treasure. In the mouth, definitely Burgundy. Huge lifespan, but this infant does have great balance, carry and core of rhubarb, cranberry and strawberry. Tomorrow would be incredible wine. #3 tonight.
2006 Chateau Clerc Milon
Tobacco, graphite, black cherry and cassis waft up the glass. Still primary, but it has the vintage—soe expressiveness of red and black fruit. Good and I liked how representative it was, but 10 years will only do good for this wine.
2001 Chateau Rieussec
A great surprise from Jay. And I had to gulp this quickly, but popped and open air for only a couple hours. Such a difference from my full a couple months ago, this was chock-full of exuberant honey, citrus, apricot, butterscotch and vanilla bean notes and bordering—but not crossing over into—voluptuousness. It was a heck of a mouthful of Sauternes goodness. #4.
So nice again to see my old friends and meet many new friends on this night.
A bientot, j’espere
Mike