TNs--Mike on Tour--Oct 13--Dinner in Philly with Sarah Kirschbaum et al

We had debated about having dinner at Jaxon restaurant, but we looked at the menu and what we were bringing as wines and Sarah suggested instead that she and her marvelous husband Jonathan host at their place instead. I felt a bit bad making Jonathan work on a last-minute basis like that, but I think we all agreed that we made the right decision, as what followed was one of the nicest evenings I’ve had in a long time, a night where food, wine and friends all meshed together.

I had had the fine opportunity to once again spend some of my afternoon hours with Stuart Niemtzow. He treated me to a Philly Cheesesteak from Mama’s in Bala Cynwyd and, while it’s probably a good thing that I have one only once every 3 years, it was supremely delicious! So was our time together, as BeauneHead and I talked some politics, careers, music (of course) and Jewish history past and present, on the heels of his and Elly’s recent trip to Russia and Belarus. I was thrilled that Elly was able to come with us to dinner and that Ted and JoAnn Erfer could make it as well.

I had not met Sarah and Jonathan before this, but I am hugely glad I’ve corrected that. They are wonderful people and generous to a fault.

2013 Pearl Morissette Cuvee Metis

I think this was the vintage that was 50% CF, 50% pinot. Regardless, it has a lovely red berry nose tinged with greens and a round, delectable palate with those replays. Stuart very much enjoyed the last PM I brought down and I believe this one also found the sweet spot for him. I liked it plenty and left the rest with Sarah and Jonathan to enjoy.

Diebolt-Vallois NV BdB Cremant

From mag–grass notes to go with slightly sweet lemon fruit. For relative youth, this is very tasty. Crisp and tangy citrus and apple peel. Good length too, a nice surprise.

Andre Clouet Rose

Pure watermelon juice in the nuzzie–sooo fresh! Quite lively, a little on the sweet side and loses vitality after a bit in the glass, but red-fruited cranberry and watermelon makes for a tasty sip.

1990 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche

The first of two wines tonight where we had some table division and real uncertainty as to whether it was corked or not. Stuart gave this 2 hours of slow-oxygenation. For me, I think it manifested a tiny bit on the palate and more in the sense that the wine didn’t have the depth and fortitude that I might have expected. There is, for me, some earth and plum and sous-bois that does come through. Will welcome others’ thoughts.

1997 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche

Decanted for 1 hour. Very polished nose–hints of lots of things, touch of mincemeat. Not too deep, but very elegant, very complete. Red cherry and plum. Fine.

1992 Chateau Montelana Estate Cab

Very classy bouquet–peppercorns, black cherry, mint, menthol (eucalyptus was commented on by many). This is sweet, but not oppressively, and very lilting…in no way heavy. It’s in a good spot and very distinctively Montelana. Possibly my #2 tonight.

A retaste of the 2010 EMH Black Cat Cab from yesterday finds it having a little more blue fruit and surprisingly, to me, more freshness. We again raised a glass to our California wine friends.

2002 Domaine de Courcel Pommard Fremiers

I brought this and slow-oxed it for about an hour, followed by 1.5 hour decant. Wow. The decanter sure helped. This was awfully tight when opened but now the aromas are of pure plum core, some light touches of mocha and blackberry. Very solid–not super (yet)–but solid, good richness and presence on the tongue. Later a kinda piney note. Still quite aggressive, but lots of stuff. Grows on me over the night. #3 and much better in 10 years.

1998 Georges Vernay Coteau de Vernon Condrieu

The type of wine that brought us all together, as Sarah, Stuart and I were all on a thread on this a little while ago. This has caramel a bit, honey and bits of peach and a sliver of marmalade. Now this is in a real interesting place. Very wildflower honey to taste and kind of a Calvados thing going on–there’s certainly a bitter aspect to it just now. It’s got great stuff, but surprisingly snarly and primal—even after all this time!

1998 Boxler Sommerberg Grand Cru Ries

A heavenly dazzler dans le nez. Smells of the Alsatian mountainside–honey and lilac and star fruit and apple. I adore wines which can take me to remembered places. Even more of that on the palate, this is a beautiful, gorgeous wine. A ballerina with all the sparkles. Lime, star fruit, it has suave and forever length. Very firmly my WOTN, probably a 92 or so.

1983 Chateau Grillet

Evil temptress hostess showed me this “just in case” wine and of course I puppydogged my way to getting it opened. This one we were also very unsure about corked. It may be flawed in some way, but we decide not corked. Nuzzie is quite shy, kind of lemon candied scents. For me, it gets more complete and shaped with each sip, but in an oblique way without anything identifiable, and not what I’m used to in this area—to be fair, the oldest Grillet I’ve had is an 04.

2002 Daniel Lenko Viognier Icewine

Freight trains you with maple fudge, apricot and honey. Dessert in a glass–thick and rich and orange and vanilla. Very sturdy and with just enough acidity to carry the day. Fun to share, as I doubt there are more than 100 half-bottles of this still in existence.

As a bonus, Sarah and Jonathan (who are whisky fiends as well) shares a very special pour of a 1971 Ben Nevis (36 yrs to bottling?). Strong, strong stuff–primal, the pepperiest whisky I’ve ever had. Tinge of ginger and huge nut component, wonderful character here.

For opening their home and their hearts to us, can’t thank Sarah and Jonathan enough. I am also very happy to have seen Stuart, Elly, Ted and JoAnn again.

A bientot, J’espere

Mike

Yes, indeed. Special nights follow invites from those two.

I’m surprised this is still kicking around. Had this years ago and thought it more than ready already.
And don’t fear cheesesteaks: they do a body good.

Another wonderful adventure with stellar people, food and wines Mike. BTW, the 90`Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche is one of my favs of all time. I bought many bottles and have thoroughly enjoyed all to date with 1 remaining. Sorry your bottle was not up to par. I may still have the one to share with you when you come West.

Thanks for the notes, Mike!!!

Sounds like a nice night, Mike. I’m sorry we missed you this time around.

FWIW, I thought this bottle more than “up to par”. I took the 1/4 bottle that was left after someone concluded it was “corked” immediately on tasting it, since the demand went way down. I spent at least 6 times smelling and tasting it yesterday as it opened further in glass. I could not detect even the slightist hint of “cork” at any point…despite being openminded about the possiblity. Coincidentally, a couple, old friends came over for from-scratch “Trenton” pizza. The husband, who’s been a friend since a 1985 wine trip, was the wine critic of the Philadelphia Inquirer at that point. He has one of the two most probing palates I know of. I served this to him blind. He also detected no scintilla of “cork” and said he really “loved” the wine…then he asked what it was.

These bottles were bought at the winery in 1992 and shipped over here via reefer (not that that would change anything if it were affected by TCA. At that point, Hubert Lignier was still making the wines (Romain was imminent for his short, tragic reign). The '88s, during a visit in 1990, were still made in older, less hygenic style with the “barnyard, sous-bois” stuff that people attributed to red Burgundy as a positive, but was really a reflection of the lack of great hygeine still prevalent at the artisanal producers through the '80s and early '90s when the boomers took over from their fathers. If anything, there was a very slight element of that beloved “barnyard” in this wine; that was suggested by our friend, too.

But, for me, it was a glorious, serious wine from a great vineyard and great vintage. And, I have no reason to deny flaws in a wine…and find them regularly. This wasn’t flawed, and it was puzzling that someone thought so.

A lesson: beware of snap judgments…and beware particularly of making snap judgments on “pop and pour” wines…(though this one had been opened, cleaned , aerated for two hours and put back in the bottle. I am a total skeptic about “slow ox”; I think it is little more than 'no-ox".

I post this only as a warning about the need to see a wine evolve (and whites evolve to room temperature)_ before evaluating them conclusively. And, especially, of offering ones views of such things…as others will often defer to such decrees. (For me, it was a plus, as 1/4 bottle was left and I immediately put a cork in it and put in on the floor next to me to ponder the next day. )

Whether my palate is a good one…or not…I make no argument…I have long been sensitive to the flaws of the green meanies, corked wines and wines with , in my view, excessive alcohol for the level of fruit and structure…and have had many arguments with winemakers at their places over these areas…all taken well (and usually resulting in the opening of another of the same bottle for comparison.)
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+1

Loved your post Stuart and can easily relate. I prefer that no table conversation take place until all have sampled a wine and then after some time in the glass. That way there isn`t a bias suggested to shift ones experience or impression and the wine has an opportunity to open up and let go of any compounds contained upon receiving its cork.

Much appreciate your posting on your subsequent check-in on the wine, Stuart, and of course your thoughts as well. I do like sous-bois and funk myself, finding it adds to character. For me, there was the question of depth and overall character that I may have wanted more…but also worth noting that my palate may have still been “recovering” from the 27 wines at the Bordeaux dinner the night before!

I can only re-emphasize that the highlight for me was the splendid night with old and new friends talking with each other…the thing I look for on all my trips and OLs now.

Mike

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