…Suchots lot of good wine…?? Best leave this game to Alan and Jeremy I guess.
These are brief notes on a tasting I led for my local group this week. The idea had been bubbling around in my brain for some years based on the vertical of Confuron-Cotetidot I’d been building and I’d always liked the idea of focusing on a specific site. Not sure I learned much about Suchots in the end, but I certainly learned a bit about the three domaines featured.
Confuron-Cotetidot bracket
2004
Briary and spicy but not immediately green. A hint of the vegetal on the palate and a disappointing touch of resin in the texture. The green flavours weren’t too intrusive however. This will always be a savoury rather than a sweet/generous style. Big volume and weight. Attractive spice on the mid-palate and then a dry finish. 16/20
2005
Crystalline and extremely pure. Has energy to match its mass. Massive tannic grip. Totally primary. A bit of a beast with a muscular, powerful finish. 17.5/20
2006
Very slightly dusty and just on the edge of perceptible TCA. Superb, bright and rich fruit underneath. Lovely energy and a more delicate tannin profile than the 2005. Impressive length. Probably 17/20 without the taint.
2007
Attractive Vosne musk and scent. Spicy. Pretty red fruit and spice perfume. Elegant, with lift and a sense of light and shade on the finish. A really smart 2007. 18/20
2008
Pristine, beautifully detailed fruit and great spice characters. Light on its feet and crisp. Very youthful. Pixellated and bursting with energy. 18.5/20
Arnoux-Lachaux bracket
2007
Extremely ripe and succulent. Flattering, richly-textured attack but falls away towards the finish. Slightly superficial and simple at its core. Warm on the back with alcohol. 16/20
2011
Aromas have more cohesion and focus than the '07. Fruit expression has precision and delicacy. Fine boned structure and a high-toned edge throughout. Finish just isn’t quite there. 17/20
2013
Sweet fruit on the nose but the ‘whole’ is slightly unformed at this stage. Palate shows light, shade and energy. Seriously impressive. Crisp, mineral tannin and a great build - crescendo - to the finish. 18/20
2014
Very shy nose. Fatter than the '13 and quite dense for the vintage. Deluxe and glossy style. Dark-toned fruit and a dry finish. 17.5/20
Hudelot-Noellat bracket
1996
Delicate, slightly leafy perfume. Very sweet with a firm structure behind it - marked chaptalisation character? Seems manipulated. Bit hard and angular on the finish. 16/20
2001
Very impressive showing. Spicy, leafy, briary aromas. Attractive sweetness and volume, with much greater harmony than the '96. Successfully combines richness and tension. 17.5/20
2010
Really class act. Nose is tightly wound but this has a superb, light on its feet, profile on the palate. It dances. Very fine-spun web of tannin. Elegant and silky finish. 18.5/20
I guess the domaines performed as expected. Confuron-Cotetidot was heavily marked by the stem inclusion. They’re large-scaled wines, need lots of time, and flirt with the rustic. The 2007 and '08 were extremely exciting. I didn’t quite ‘get’ Arnoux-Lachaux. They seemed quite plush and slightly ‘emperor’s new clothes’ but I know many people love them. Is their Suchots of Grand Cru quality? Not for my palate. Hudelot-Noellat seemed much more elegant than C-C but much more classical and more typically Vosne than A-L.
Cheers,
M