Some mighty fine bottles were served up at my brown-bag group last night. We taste completely blindly – only the person who brought the wine is. The rest of us embarrass ourselves by guessing.
2005 Taittinger- Comtes de Champagne – Blanc de Blanc: Lots of fizz; nice medium golden color. Nutty nose. More nuts and yeast in the mouth – almonds and yeast in spades – with some residual sugar. Persistent, creamy mousse. Soft, slightly sweet finish. I guessed a 12-15-year-old wine. The mousse suggested Champagne, the lowish acid and sweetness suggested New World. I vacillated. Very nice. 89+ ish. I’d like a bit more acid. The wine was a tad warm, and might have tasted crisper if it had been chilled more.
1971 Schiavenza Barolo: Slightly cloudy from fine sediment (it had only been upright for a couple of days), but it didn’t impart any bitterness. Cherries on the nose. Many of us guessed pinot at first, and probably New World because of its sweetness. There was a ripeness about the cherry fruit that precluded Burgundy for me. Then I started wondering if it could be warm-year Cote Rotie – 1990? I even wondered if it could be an elegant Chateauneuf. There is a luscious warmth about it and oodles of fruit. “Generous” was the word I used, and others concurred. Silky. Warm, caressing finish. Totally integrated, everything in sync.
WOTN. What a wonderful example of nebbiolo fleshing out with time. This is Exhibit A in the case for waiting out Barolo. It helps that this is from Serralunga, I think. That probably explains the depth. 94+ Purchased from Chambers Street Wines.
1999 Silvio Grasso – Barolo – Ciabot Manzoni: A trace of VA on the nose, then strong fennel seed and leather. Big and savory in the mouth, with ripe plums. Tannic, but in balance. No oak apparent on the palate, though the winery uses barriques. Tuscan, I guessed? Terrific balance. “This was a beast when young,” someone commented. A trace of oak in the finish, and not quite as full as I’d hope, but still excellent. A bit lacking in nebbiolo-ishness, though. According to the importer’s website, this bottling has a very short fermentation and maceration: just six days. 92-ish.
2001 Il Poggione – Brunello: I brought this, so I couldn’t embarrass myself with bad guesses in this case. Big, ripe, some alcohol showing, but it’s all in balance. Some age, with tannins slightly softening, but lots of grip in the mouth and at the back end.
This is in early adulthood. This cries out for red meat. Then I’d be chugging it. This is what I want/expect in a 16-year-old Brunello. 92-ish.
2016 Dom. de Traginer – Banyuls Rimage – Vin Doux Naturel: I’ve never had such a young, fresh Banyuls, with fruit instead of chocolate flavors dominating. 17%. Dark cherry essence on the nose. Taut, tannic, then plum jam. Sweet raspberries, too. Great acid. I guessed a seven-year-old late harvest zin – a guess that is not embarrassing. A great deal at $22 for a 500ml. Great with cheeses and dessert.