TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

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John Morris
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#1 Post by John Morris » October 3rd, 2017, 8:16 pm

Chambers Street teamed up with Jancis Robinson to sponsor a tasting of 43 Barolos from 2013 tonight at the Tribeca Grill. This was perhaps the best walk-around events I've ever been to -- lots of wine, no need to elbow your way in, more than two and a half hours to taste, with good nibbles. Certainly a great bargain at $150 including food.

The payoff of events like this is you get a feel for overall vintage. The drawback is that 43 young Barolos take a toll on the palate, and in this setting, it's hard to see how a wine evolves in the glass, and it's hard to take notes. It definitely paid to retaste with a refreshed palate. Also, bottles that had been open a bit often showed better than freshly opened ones.

The best wines showed richness but great structure. A few showed some heat and VA. If the danger in 2012 was wines that were underripe and lacking in concentration, the risk in 2013 seems to be in the other direction.

The wines from Verduno and La Morra seemed to show better at this stage. Those areas tend to produce more approachable wines. But perhaps they were favored in 2013.

The wines were selected by Walter Speller, Robinson's delightfully opinionated Italian specialist, and were provided by the Enoteca Regionale di Barolo. It was a good selection of producers but didn't include any trophy wines.

My scores are conservative because most these wines are tough sledding at the moment -- tight and tannic. Greg dal Piaz, who was there, said these were much more forthcoming when he tasted them in May.

Wines I particularly liked -- most of them tasted at least twice over several hours:

Burlotto - Acclivi (a blend of their Verduno vineyards): fabulous floral nose, spicy, elegant; a good poor man's substitute for the unobtainable Monvigliero. 92-ish for me

Oddero - Barolo (a blend of some pretty good vineyards where they don't have enough vines to bottle a cru): Lovely, fruity, very approachable -- less tannic than some. 90-ish.

Vajra - Bricco delle Viole: Quite taut on the first pour, but lots of fruit concentration underneath. Retrying it later there were intense floral notes on the nose. 92-ish.

Scarzello - Vigna Merenda - Sarmassa: Hard tannins at first, but this opened up. Returning near the end this was rich, ripe, full of fruit but with boatloads of structure. Greg d P was oohing and ahing over this. I agree. Old fashioned in the best sense. 92+ -ish.

Cogno - Ravera: Lots of concentration of fruit here, plus structure. 91-ish.

Cavalloto - Bricco Boschi: Outstanding! Focused, concentrated, with lots of fruit and grip. My wine of the evening. 93++ ish

Rivetto - Serralunga d'Alba: A producer I'm unfamiliar with, but this showed very well. Perfumed -- sort of unusual for Serralunga. "Elegant with lots of grip," I wrote. 91-ish.

Luigi Baudana - Cerretta (owned by Vajra): I've liked these wines since I first tasted them at Vajra in 2011. This is real Serralunga: dense, tannic, concentrated. But there's a long, rich, fruit-filled finish. I wrote 91, but that's probably stingy.

The tasting certainly confirmed my preference for the traditionalists. Some of the modern-style wines I wasn't keen on:

Scavino - Monvigliero: rich, balanced, but without any detail; kind of muddy flavors; certainly no Monvigliero terroir speaking here
Silvio Grasso - Bricco Manzoni: dominated by oak, with oak tannins to boot
Conterno-Fantino - Sori Ginestra: hot, alcohol scents, also hot on the palate. Later some shoe polish VA showed up. Wood tannins at the back.
Parusso - Bussia: very odd vegetal nose; later this seemed like green oak, and there was a marked oaky taste
Prunotto - Bussia: strangely pale hue -- almost rose like. This was particularly odd in a modern style wine. Some oak on the nose and in the mouth. This just didn't seem like cru bottling quality.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#2 Post by Max K » October 3rd, 2017, 9:45 pm

Great notes, John. Thanks for posting so soon after the tasting.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#3 Post by DanielP » October 3rd, 2017, 9:51 pm

Thank you for the impressions. Tasting 43 barolos sounds like insanity, but the good kind of insane. Do you have a sense for how the vintage might compare similarly to past vintages? Were any of Fratelli Alessandria's barolos poured? If Verduno might have done particularly well in 2013, their wines may be of particular nterest to me.
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#4 Post by etomasi » October 3rd, 2017, 10:14 pm

Thanks for the notes! I find barolos really hard to understand when young. When at tastings I tend to pick the modern style ( fruit forward, easy) when I know don't like that style when aged 10-20 yrs. I simply don't have the decades of knowledge to know that what to look for in young barolos that allow them to transform into the marvelous aged classic barolos I love.
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#5 Post by Andrew Hamilton » October 3rd, 2017, 11:15 pm

Thanks for sharing John, much appreciated.

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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#6 Post by Ron Slye » October 4th, 2017, 2:00 am

etomasi wrote:Thanks for the notes! I find barolos really hard to understand when young. When at tastings I tend to pick the modern style ( fruit forward, easy) when I know don't like that style when aged 10-20 yrs. I simply don't have the decades of knowledge to know that what to look for in young barolos that allow them to transform into the marvelous aged classic barolos I love.
Yes. That seems to be my problem as well. I have a number of older Barolo (i?) that are in the modern style that I am not sure I like anymore........

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#7 Post by Sanjay Nandurkar » October 4th, 2017, 2:34 am

Thanks for your impressions John.

Incidentally, I opened a bottle of 2013 Conterno-Fantino - Sori Ginestra few hours ago and I am drinking it at the moment. I do not get any heat or VA ( I am very sensitive to both). FWIW, I am drinking from a Zalto Burgundy glass. Wine not decanted but left to open up in the glass over few hours. There are tannins on the back palate which I thought were fruit tannins before reading your report. But there is beautiful fruit and the wine has intensity to match the tannins which I do not think are overwhelming. NB: I do not have much experience with this producer or his style. I have tasted Conterno-Fantino few times but is the first time I have actually purchased his wines. I will leave a half bottle for tasting tomorrow.

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#8 Post by Sanjay Nandurkar » October 4th, 2017, 2:37 am

Last week I opened a 2013 Produttori Normale and the first bootle did not look good at all. I could pin point the exact flaw but it just was not there. So I opened a second bottle few days later and it was beautiful. So I guess there is some bottle variation to be expected.

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#9 Post by James Billy » October 4th, 2017, 3:12 am

John Morris wrote:The best wines showed richness but great structure. A few showed some heat and VA. If the danger in 2012 was wines that were underripe and lacking in concentration, the risk in 2013 seems to be in the other direction.

The wines from Verduno and La Morra seemed to show better at this stage. Those areas tend to produce more approachable wines. But perhaps they were favored in 2013.
.
Great notes, John! I attended a similar (incredibly, much bigger) 2012 event. I didn't detect any under ripeness. The Serralunga/Monforte wines were definitely the highlight for me: complex and delightful as apposed to the more gloopy, sweet La Morra and to a lesser degree, Barolo commune wines. 2013 wines may be 'better', but the SE commune's wines were good enough for me.

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#10 Post by R Nanda » October 4th, 2017, 5:30 am

Thanks for the data points on some of my favorites -- Burlotto, Vajra, Cavallotto, Cogno.

Scarzello and Rivetto are new names for me. Will have to check them out.
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#11 Post by John Morris » October 4th, 2017, 5:33 am

DanielPaik wrote:Thank you for the impressions. Tasting 43 barolos sounds like insanity, but the good kind of insane. Do you have a sense for how the vintage might compare similarly to past vintages? Were any of Fratelli Alessandria's barolos poured? If Verduno might have done particularly well in 2013, their wines may be of particular nterest to me.
Speller said this was the post-2010 vintage to buy, and that seems right. I liked the '12s quite a bit for their elegance and aromatics, but the '13s are more concentrated and riper. They seem much better structured than the '11s, many of which I found deficient in acid.

Sadly, there were no Fratelli Alessandria wines. I'd hoped to try them. The Castello di Verduno Massara was poured, though. I wrote: "Lovely, elegant, spicy," and put it around 90 points.

Again: My point scores need to be taken with a grain of salt since there was no chance to coax things out of the glass over time.
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#12 Post by John Morris » October 4th, 2017, 5:38 am

etomasi wrote:Thanks for the notes! I find barolos really hard to understand when young. When at tastings I tend to pick the modern style ( fruit forward, easy) when I know don't like that style when aged 10-20 yrs. I simply don't have the decades of knowledge to know that what to look for in young barolos that allow them to transform into the marvelous aged classic barolos I love.
Interestingly, the modern wines here were not necessarily the most fruit-forward. The most approachable wines were probably the Burlotto Acclivi and the Oddero normale. Most of the barriqued wines showed some oak flavors and aromas, and a numbers seemed to have harsh oak tannins. Of course, this is just one moment in these wines' lives. Greg said the '13s generally were more open and fruity when he tasted them in May. (Jamie Wolfe of Chambers Street said the wines had been shipped two weeks ahead. Some might still be suffering a little travel shock.)

It is hard to judge serious nebbiolo young because of the ferocious tannin. As Speller said, you need to try to look for the fruit concentration and balance. I've been visiting the region since 1996 and have drunk a fair number of young Barolos here in the US, but I still find these harder to assess young than wines from other regions of the world.
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#13 Post by John Morris » October 4th, 2017, 5:49 am

Sanjay Nandurkar wrote:Thanks for your impressions John.

Incidentally, I opened a bottle of 2013 Conterno-Fantino - Sori Ginestra few hours ago and I am drinking it at the moment. I do not get any heat or VA ( I am very sensitive to both). FWIW, I am drinking from a Zalto Burgundy glass. Wine not decanted but left to open up in the glass over few hours. There are tannins on the back palate which I thought were fruit tannins before reading your report. But there is beautiful fruit and the wine has intensity to match the tannins which I do not think are overwhelming. NB: I do not have much experience with this producer or his style. I have tasted Conterno-Fantino few times but is the first time I have actually purchased his wines. I will leave a half bottle for tasting tomorrow.
The VA was on the second pass through. It wasn't anywhere near the point of saying the bottle was spoiled; just at that level you sometimes get because of Barolo's alcohol levels and time in wood. It was of the shoe polish type, which I can take only in very small doses. The room and wine were probably in the mid-70s by that point, which might make it more conspicuous. Or maybe that bottle had a cork that allowed in too much air.

FYI, according to the cantina website, the techniques are pretty modern. The Sori Ginestra has a relatively short maceration (8-15 days) in "horizontal fermenters" (which I assume means roto-fermenters) and it spends two years in French oak. I haven't tasted their wines all that often. I remember a couple over the years seeming fairly oaky, but sometimes that worked for me.
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#14 Post by John Morris » October 4th, 2017, 5:52 am

James Billy wrote:
John Morris wrote:The best wines showed richness but great structure. A few showed some heat and VA. If the danger in 2012 was wines that were underripe and lacking in concentration, the risk in 2013 seems to be in the other direction.

The wines from Verduno and La Morra seemed to show better at this stage. Those areas tend to produce more approachable wines. But perhaps they were favored in 2013.
.
Great notes, John! I attended a similar (incredibly, much bigger) 2012 event. I didn't detect any under ripeness. The Serralunga/Monforte wines were definitely the highlight for me: complex and delightful as apposed to the more gloopy, sweet La Morra and to a lesser degree, Barolo commune wines. 2013 wines may be 'better', but the SE commune's wines were good enough for me.
I can't recall any '12s that were underripe for my palate -- I liked many of them a lot for earlier drinking -- but I think some people reacted to some of the wines that way. I was just trying to convey where '12 and '13 lie on the style/ripeness scale relative to each other.
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#15 Post by Subu Ramachandran » October 4th, 2017, 7:55 am

Great notes John, what an event! was planning on attending but ended up being away from city.

And thanks for explaining what to look for in young non-modern wines! I always find it hard to taste past those rough tannin.

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#16 Post by C. Mc Cart » October 4th, 2017, 8:40 am

Thanks for the notes John. Those Cavallotto wines usually show well young.
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#17 Post by joz€f p1nxten » October 4th, 2017, 9:32 am

Did you taste any Silvano Bolmida Bussia, John? Not a trophy wine so maybe it was available?
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#18 Post by John Morris » October 4th, 2017, 9:41 am

I'm afraid I didn't. I skipped two or three in the interests of palate preservation, and I think a friend there said that one was skippable.
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#19 Post by Markus S » October 4th, 2017, 9:42 am

John Morris wrote:... A few showed some heat...
Surprised more didn't show this, as B&B begins at 14% alcohol...
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#20 Post by John Morris » October 4th, 2017, 10:12 am

Markus S wrote:
John Morris wrote:... A few showed some heat...
Surprised more didn't show this, as B&B begins at 14% alcohol...
Yes, I found the alcohol stands out on some '07s and '11s, in particular, but there were only a handful last night that showed heat for me. And I'm generally pretty sensitive to high alcohols.
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#21 Post by G. Newman » October 4th, 2017, 1:25 pm

I tend to shy away from wines showing heat and was quite surprised at how few of the 2013 Barolo seemed hot. I counted 7 wines out of 42 that I tasted that I found hot---including Scavino Monvigliero, Virna Borgogno Sarmassa, Silvio Grasso Bricco Manzoni and Conterno Fantino Sori Ginestra. It was remarkable at how well the alcohol was controlled.

John definitely deserves some kind of WB badge for good work for posting so many details so shortly after the event. Does WB give out recognition badges?
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#22 Post by Gregory Dal Piaz » October 4th, 2017, 3:02 pm

A bit of a shocker, though I think much of the wackiness of the wines is attributable to the short time they had to settle once they were shipped.

I have to say that if I had only tasted these wines last night I would be a tentative buyer at best for almost everything I've already bought. The 2/3s or so of these that I tasted in March and May of this year all showed better, some by a small degree, others exponentially. The delicacy and nuance of the vintage was totally submerged in tannin and acid last night, well at least we don't have to wonder if these have the structure to age!
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#23 Post by John Morris » October 4th, 2017, 4:19 pm

Gregory Dal Piaz wrote:A bit of a shocker, though I think much of the wackiness of the wines is attributable to the short time they had to settle once they were shipped.
Be careful, or the moderators will merge this with the travel shock thread, and then we're all done for.
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#24 Post by Gene Ferrara » October 5th, 2017, 7:01 am

Gregory Dal Piaz wrote:I have to say that if I had only tasted these wines last night I would be a tentative buyer at best for almost everything I've already bought. The 2/3s or so of these that I tasted in March and May of this year all showed better, some by a small degree, others exponentially. The delicacy and nuance of the vintage was totally submerged in tannin and acid last night, well at least we don't have to wonder if these have the structure to age!
I felt exactly the same way.

Overall, I think the wines showed sweet, ripe (mostly cherry) fruit - a few were bordering on candied.

The wines had a boatload of tannin and it appeared to me that there was a commonality in winemaking style. While there were a few outliers, the wines were very clean (as far as I could tell with the immense tannins), the oaking was prominent and I I had difficulty discerning if some new oak was present on some of the wines. I think that may be due to the ripeness of the fruit.

My favorites from the night were:

Cavallotto Boschis - Deep and intense, showing alot of oak but alot of flavor and stuffing to match.

Diego Conterno Ginestra - I thought this showed a bit more restraint with better overall balance.

Burlotto Acclivi - Nice transparency, fresh but traditional in style and not as weighty/overblown.

Castello di Verduno - Great midpalate hit, expansive and expressive with alot of flavor. Tried it again at the end of the night and it was showing a touch herbal with a spicy intensity that I really liked.

Oddero - This was a nice surprise since I have not enjoyed any of their wine in the past. I thought it had a nice combo of sweet tannin, spicy with good structure and length.

S & B Borgogno Cannubi - Very tannic but with a nice core. Balanced, spicy and intense with good fruit that is not candied or cloying.

Rivetto - Tannic but a nice (softer?) mouthfeel. Good intensity, anise. A bit harsh on the finish.

Cascina Fontana and Giacomo Fenocchio also were a cut above IMHO.

Disappointments:

Scavino Monvigliero - I thought the 08 showed promise and a distinct change in style from what Scavino was doing in the late 80’s/90’s. I was hoping for another step forward with 13, but was left a bit cold. Not as spoofed as in the past but still oaky, some new. Not bad, but overall uninspiring. Nothing in the flavor profile would suggest this is Monvigliero.

Silvano Bolmida - Odd nose, anise and herbal (not in a good way) which comes through to the palate. Is this a bit off? (Note: I should have went back and tried another bottle).

Parusso Bussia - This was right next to the Bolmida. Also odd, grassy, herbal. Grapefruit and lemon zest quality to the acids and in the finish. It’s possible that this was the after effect of the Bolmida, though I did rinse and made sure I was ready to taste this wine.

Summary:

I think if I was just getting interested in Barolo I would be enthused about these wines and this vintage. The wines showed plenty of fruit and weight, they were all clean (only a few showed overt bitterness) and I only detected some corky/moldy/dirtiness in one of the wines - and that could have been me and/or the bottle.

I probably enjoyed the “better” wines from the 2012 Barolo Night event more than these. Jaime and crew did their usual magnificent job and Robinson and Speller are very nice people who are accessible and engaging. Speller’s speech was like his reviews, concise, valuable and honest.

I hope they all can make this an annual event.

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#25 Post by John Morris » October 5th, 2017, 7:44 am

A few thoughts in response:
Gene Ferrara wrote:Cavallotto Boschis - Deep and intense, showing alot of oak but alot of flavor and stuffing to match.
I like that a lot, too. They don't use new/small oak, though. I didn't get any oak in this.
Gene Ferrara wrote:Cascina Fontana and Giacomo Fenocchio also were a cut above IMHO.
I liked these both, too. I didn't mention them only because they weren't the top tier for me. But, as we agree, making finally graded assessments in this context was impossible. I have not great conviction in my scores except for the ones that seem flawed in some way.
Gene Ferrara wrote:Scavino Monvigliero - I thought the 08 showed promise and a distinct change in style from what Scavino was doing in the late 80’s/90’s. I was hoping for another step forward with 13, but was left a bit cold. Not as spoofed as in the past but still oaky, some new. Not bad, but overall uninspiring. Nothing in the flavor profile would suggest this is Monvigliero.
I tasted the Scavino 13s a few months ago and found them all monolithic -- the opposite of transparent. I thought this showed marginally better than earlier in the year, but it has no appeal for me.
Gene Ferrara wrote:Parusso Bussia - This was right next to the Bolmida. Also odd, grassy, herbal. Grapefruit and lemon zest quality to the acids and in the finish. It’s possible that this was the after effect of the Bolmida, though I did rinse and made sure I was ready to taste this wine.
That grassy/herbal thing was not a holdover from the Bolmida. My notes on the Parusso read: "Oddly vegetal nose. Green oak? Oaky in the mouth." I can't say I've ever had a wine aged in unseasoned oak, but this is what I imagine it would taste like. Not pleasant.
Gene Ferrara wrote:I probably enjoyed the “better” wines from the 2012 Barolo Night event more than these.
The 2012s are just easier to like young, I think, particularly tasting them en masse. In big tastings, nebbiolo tannins eventually get the better of your palate, and the '13s certainly have a lot of grip.
Gene Ferrara wrote:Jaime and crew did their usual magnificent job and Robinson and Speller are very nice people who are accessible and engaging. Speller’s speech was like his reviews, concise, valuable and honest.
+1
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#26 Post by joz€f p1nxten » October 5th, 2017, 8:24 am

Gene Ferrara wrote: Disappointments:
Silvano Bolmida - Odd nose, anise and herbal (not in a good way) which comes through to the palate. Is this a bit off? (Note: I should have went back and tried another bottle).
Strange, that is not how I tasted them in Piemonte back in August and it also did not show like this in the bottle I tried back home (and we tried it next to other Barolo's / Barbaresco's).
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#27 Post by Nathan Smyth » October 5th, 2017, 8:55 am

This was a very depressing exercise.
John Morris wrote:Burlotto - Acclivi... 92-ish
2013_Burlotto_Acclivi.png
2013_Burlotto_Acclivi.png (145.08 KiB) Viewed 2824 times
John Morris wrote:Vajra - Bricco delle Viole... 92-ish
2013_Vajra_Bricco-delle-Viole.png
2013_Vajra_Bricco-delle-Viole.png (126.59 KiB) Viewed 2824 times
John Morris wrote:Scarzello - Vigna Merenda - Sarmassa... 92+ish
No listings yet at free Wine-Searcher, but the older vintages don't offer much hope.
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John Morris wrote:Cavalloto - Bricco Boschi... 93++ ish
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#28 Post by Nathan Smyth » October 5th, 2017, 8:59 am

I guess the Cavalloto, at $67, is the "value" wine here.

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#29 Post by John Morris » October 5th, 2017, 9:24 am

Greg dal Piaz said that Scarzello bottles and releases their wines late. He seemed surprised it was even bottled, so that's probably some ways off from being available.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#30 Post by Gene Ferrara » October 5th, 2017, 9:38 am

John Morris wrote:A few thoughts in response:
Gene Ferrara wrote:Cavallotto Boschis - Deep and intense, showing alot of oak but alot of flavor and stuffing to match.
I like that a lot, too. They don't use new/small oak, though. I didn't get any oak in this.
Agreed John, no new or small oak. I try to make a distinction as to type of tannin - if it is skin/pip/extraction and/or if it is coming from oak (large or barrique). I short changed this note as I “know” Cavallotto is traditional and the oak would be large cask.

Thanks also for your take on the Parusso. I hit a wine or two like this when I’m 3 dozen or so in and I start wondering if its me.

I agree with your point about the 12’s showing easier (if not better). There were a few 2012’s that I felt (hoped) would be enjoyable within 5 to 10 years and had that traditional fruit and flavor profile that says “Barolo” to me. As good as 13 may be, I am still struggling a bit with ripeness and clarity of fruit in these wines at such a young age.

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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#31 Post by John Morris » October 5th, 2017, 9:46 am

Gene Ferrara wrote: Thanks also for your take on the Parusso. I hit a wine or two like this when I’m 3 dozen or so in and I start wondering if its me.
[basic-smile.gif] I think we all had that experience on Tuesday!
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#32 Post by Gene Ferrara » October 5th, 2017, 9:54 am

jwpinxten wrote:
Gene Ferrara wrote: Disappointments:
Silvano Bolmida - Odd nose, anise and herbal (not in a good way) which comes through to the palate. Is this a bit off? (Note: I should have went back and tried another bottle).
Strange, that is not how I tasted them in Piemonte back in August and it also did not show like this in the bottle I tried back home (and we tried it next to other Barolo's / Barbaresco's).
Could be me, or the bottle I tried. I think Greg above stated he thought these wines showed a bit less favorably than they did earlier. Travel shock was also mentioned as a possibility.

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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#33 Post by Gene Ferrara » October 5th, 2017, 9:57 am

John Morris wrote:
Gene Ferrara wrote: Thanks also for your take on the Parusso. I hit a wine or two like this when I’m 3 dozen or so in and I start wondering if its me.
[basic-smile.gif] I think we all had that experience on Tuesday!
Also agreed. By the time I tried the Massolino (which probably was very good) I wasn’t wondering if it was me anymore - I was trying to remember who I was [cheers.gif]

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#34 Post by John Morris » October 5th, 2017, 10:00 am

I started at the other end of the middle table, so I hit the Massolino about 10 wines in. It didn't grab me, at first or on a retaste two hours later. So you may not have missed anything there.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#35 Post by Gene Ferrara » October 5th, 2017, 10:01 am

Nathan Smyth wrote:I guess the Cavalloto, at $67, is the "value" wine here.
As for pricing and availability, many I would guess we will see many more offers - I bet many of the wines have not been released through their main distributors/wholesalers.

Burlotto will be tough because of Galloni’s praise of the wines in general and Monvigliero in particular. The Acclivi was open stock as of last year, in 13 I was allocated 2 bottles.

We are lucky though, there are still so many very good producers that are/will be available for less. A quick check shows Wine Library (no affiliation) listing the Fenocchio Bussia for $43.

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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#36 Post by Doug Schulman » October 5th, 2017, 10:03 am

John Morris wrote:
Gene Ferrara wrote:Scavino Monvigliero - I thought the 08 showed promise and a distinct change in style from what Scavino was doing in the late 80’s/90’s. I was hoping for another step forward with 13, but was left a bit cold. Not as spoofed as in the past but still oaky, some new. Not bad, but overall uninspiring. Nothing in the flavor profile would suggest this is Monvigliero.
I tasted the Scavino 13s a few months ago and found them all monolithic -- the opposite of transparent. I thought this showed marginally better than earlier in the year, but it has no appeal for me.
This all makes sense based on my impressions of the past few vintages. They keep talking about how dramatically they've changed their winemaking, but the wines are still not a style that I can appreciate at all, partially because the oak is so apparent. If Monvigliero naturally produces wines of extreme elegance, they must be working against the terroir somehow.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#37 Post by Gregory Dal Piaz » October 5th, 2017, 10:12 am

I should add that the Cogno Ravera was a knockout in May. Could be found for under $60 and at that price it's a multi case purchase for me. One of the top dozen or so wines of the vintage for me. The Cascina Nuova isn't that far behind and at under $40 a bottle it's the value play of the vintage. YMMV and all that but the Cogno wines have never been better.

I would have been more interested in seeing the Massolino Margheria at this tasting, usually more elegant and finer, an easier read easrly on.

I lost my guidebook so I don't recall everything that was there but the Poderi Colla and the Le Strette both showed well.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#38 Post by Gene Ferrara » October 5th, 2017, 10:13 am

John Morris wrote:I started at the other end of the middle table, so I hit the Massolino about 10 wines in. It didn't grab me, at first or on a retaste two hours later. So you may not have missed anything there.
Thanks also for this. I was disappointed since I like the producer and was interested in purchasing. I wrote “very tannic” but by that time it is hard to trust my perceptions.

I thought the wine showed muted but traditionally styled - I know I was very muted by that time as well.

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#39 Post by John Morris » October 5th, 2017, 11:00 am

Actually, while the Massolini didn't leave much of an impression, I wrote some notes:

First pass: "Lovely, sweet but not hot. Balanced, elegant."

On a retry later: "A bit hot, disjointed now."

Retrying at the end of the evening: "Much better."

Kind of the story of the night.

I wrote "90??"
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#40 Post by lleichtman » October 5th, 2017, 12:18 pm

[stirthepothal.gif] I can't fathom how you could have taste 43 of them. I had 6 2013 two weeks ago and my mouth was burning they were so acidic.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#41 Post by John Morris » October 5th, 2017, 1:08 pm

Endurance training. Practice, practice, practice.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#42 Post by Sanjay Nandurkar » October 5th, 2017, 1:14 pm

Gene Ferrara wrote:
John Morris wrote:I started at the other end of the middle table, so I hit the Massolino about 10 wines in. It didn't grab me, at first or on a retaste two hours later. So you may not have missed anything there.
Thanks also for this. I was disappointed since I like the producer and was interested in purchasing. I wrote “very tannic” but by that time it is hard to trust my perceptions.

I thought the wine showed muted but traditionally styled - I know I was very muted by that time as well.
When I tasted the 2006 and 2008 Massolino at release they were very tannic with mouth puckering effect from both the tannins and acid. Brutish. Could not glean much. I had tasted the older Vigna Rionda in the past and it was a seamless wine but these young ones were so hard on the palate. Not much enjoyment.

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#43 Post by Gregory Dal Piaz » October 5th, 2017, 3:05 pm

And while I'm at it, while we didn't taste the Brovia base Barolo last night it is fantastic and worth every penny of its sub $50 price.
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#44 Post by Doug Schulman » October 6th, 2017, 7:52 am

Gregory Dal Piaz wrote:And while I'm at it, while we didn't taste the Brovia base Barolo last night it is fantastic and worth every penny of its sub $50 price.
I tried this recently and totally agree. I was very impressed given the price.
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TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#45 Post by Daniel Moritz » October 6th, 2017, 10:13 am

Kudos to you. I'm a Baroloholic and I think I'd have trouble getting through 43 in one seating!!!!
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Re: TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#46 Post by Andrew Hamilton » February 17th, 2019, 11:20 pm

John Morris wrote:
October 3rd, 2017, 8:16 pm
Rivetto - Serralunga d'Alba: A producer I'm unfamiliar with, but this showed very well. Perfumed -- sort of unusual for Serralunga. "Elegant with lots of grip," I wrote. 91-ish.
So I had the 2013 Rivetto over the weekend John. I picked up a 3 pack based on your note above. That said it was so long ago I had forgotten the specifics of your note. Looking back now though i can confirm that I'm in 100% agreement with you on this wine. My overriding impression of the wine was "pretty yet powerful". It's definitely more red than black fruited, bright, ripe, but not overripe. That said there's heaps of tannic structure which is to be expected from Serralunga. I opened it on Saturday afternoon and finished it on Sunday night. It never closed down and was open for business the entire time.

Thanks for the recommendation. This is definitely a good QPR Traditionalist Barolo in my opinion. [cheers.gif]

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Re: TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#47 Post by John Morris » February 19th, 2019, 3:22 pm

Andrew Hamilton wrote:
February 17th, 2019, 11:20 pm
So I had the 2013 Rivetto over the weekend John. I picked up a 3 pack based on your note above. [cheers.gif]
Does this make me an "influencer"? And, if I add that to my LinkedIn profile, will people start sending me free samples?
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Re: TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#48 Post by Andrew Hamilton » February 20th, 2019, 4:35 pm

John Morris wrote:
February 19th, 2019, 3:22 pm
Andrew Hamilton wrote:
February 17th, 2019, 11:20 pm
So I had the 2013 Rivetto over the weekend John. I picked up a 3 pack based on your note above. [cheers.gif]
Does this make me an "influencer"? And, if I add that to my LinkedIn profile, will people start sending me free samples?
I suspect text notes don't readily equate to a true influencer John! For that you need off angle photos of unicorn bottles on the Instagrizzy. :D

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Re: TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#49 Post by Nicos Neocleous » March 14th, 2019, 11:54 am

Gregory Dal Piaz wrote:
October 5th, 2017, 10:12 am
I should add that the Cogno Ravera was a knockout in May. Could be found for under $60 and at that price it's a multi case purchase for me. One of the top dozen or so wines of the vintage for me. The Cascina Nuova isn't that far behind and at under $40 a bottle it's the value play of the vintage. YMMV and all that but the Cogno wines have never been better.

I would have been more interested in seeing the Massolino Margheria at this tasting, usually more elegant and finer, an easier read easrly on.

I lost my guidebook so I don't recall everything that was there but the Poderi Colla and the Le Strette both showed well.
That is very helpful. Thank you for sharing your expert view.
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Re: TN: 43 Barolos from 2013 -- and a very dry mouth to show for it

#50 Post by Claus Jeppesen » March 14th, 2019, 11:59 am

Andrew Hamilton wrote:
February 20th, 2019, 4:35 pm
John Morris wrote:
February 19th, 2019, 3:22 pm
Andrew Hamilton wrote:
February 17th, 2019, 11:20 pm
So I had the 2013 Rivetto over the weekend John. I picked up a 3 pack based on your note above. [cheers.gif]
Does this make me an "influencer"? And, if I add that to my LinkedIn profile, will people start sending me free samples?
I suspect text notes don't readily equate to a true influencer John! For that you need off angle photos of unicorn bottles on the Instagrizzy. :D
And a glimps of hot curves to carry them champagne.gif champagne.gif
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