2015 Henri Boillot and Rafael Coche white wines ( and probably the best Coche wine ever )

Every year , I get to taste the recently bottled wines from Coche Dury . My gracious host always offers them blind against the same vintage of Henri Boillot . This time 2015 .
A few remarks : As the Coche wines were bottled only a few weeks ago , they tend to suffer from " maladie de bouteille " : bottle shock in English ? My tasting notes need to be read with the necessary grain of salt . The Boillot wines were bottled earlier .
Both Boillot and Coche started the vendages around August 26/27 . Key for 2015 white burgundy was to start picking early . They did… The vintage overall has similar characteristics like 2003 and 2006 : even the best wines are made for early drinking . But Boillot really excelled in 2015 : Burghound rates them the highest of al , and from what I tasted , I fully agree .
Here are the notes : blind tasting with a few ringers in it . I did very poorly this time , mostly confusing Coche and Boillot ( as I usually prefered the Boillot , except for the 2 wines of the night…)

1a: mineral , wet stones , excellent class , medium length 89/100 ( Coche Dury aligoté )
1b: very rich ( too much ) , misses a bit of tension compared to the other 3 but good wine : 87/100 ( Cote Chalonaise , Stephane Aladame , Bourgogne blanc )
1c: mineral and elegant , more floral , drink now 89/100 ( H Boillot Bourgogne Blanc )
1d: more tight , more mineral , stony , well done 88/100 ( Coche Dury Bourgogne Blanc )


2a :really lovely wine , tension and acidity , spicy with candied apples , this must be Coche 92/100 ( H Boillot Meursault villages ) ( ps. apparently , a lot of Chevalieres in his )
2b : cooler , less complexity now , I don’t see the balance and where is the fruit ? NR ( Coche Dury Meursault Villages ) ( ps. probably suffering from bottle shock , should be great wine in a few months )

3a : lot’s of well integrated acidities , really rich but in an elegant fine style . 92+/100 ( H Boillot Meursault Charmes )
3b: more full bodied and a little heavy , not a great balance NR ( Coche Dury Meursault Caillerets )
3c: wow , even more complex than bottle 1 : spicy and rich but it has retained some good freshness . Most classy of this series 94/100( H Boillot Meursault Poruzots )
3d : smoky , spicy , rich , big wine , power dominates 93/100( Coche Dury Meursault Rougeots )

4a: mineral but very rich , some butter scotch at the moment NR ( Meursault Genevrieres Coche Dury )
4b: pure and floral , still monolytic , this wine needs time and is not typical of the vintage 93+/100 ( Meursault Genevrieres H Boillot )
4c: finesse and power , super classy wine , light-to-medium bodied , I really love this 96/100 ( Coche Dury Puligny Ensegnieres )
4d : more floral , apples , long and still monolytic 92+/100 ( H Boillot Puligny Villages ) ( a wow wine for a villages )
4e: harmonious and medium-to-full bodied , long with candied apples , lovely 94/100 ( h Boillot Puligny les Pucelles )

5a : honey on the nose , fine and delicate , I guessed Chevalier Montrachet 96+/100 ( 2010 ! Corton Charlemagne Roumier )
5b: Coche spice on the nose , this is not 2015 , incredible length , fenomenal wine , layer after layer of Coche spice , apple , salt , you name it . This must be one of the best white wines I EVER had in my life : 99+/100 ( Jean-Francois Coche Dury : Corton Charlemagne 2010 )

The jury is still out whether Rafael can make wines like father Jean Francois . I miss the fantastic " JF Coche nose " in the Rafael wine . Bur Rafael wines tend to gain some finesse . For the moment , I am nostalgic and prefer the JF wines .

Herwig, starting what vintage did the change in winemaking occur?

I hope what happened to Leflaive doesn’t happen to Coche.

Thank you,
Fred

Herwig,

What a treat to be able to taste so many Coche wines, thanks for posting your notes.

I’m excited that you tasted the 2010 Coche CC, does that mean that it has finally been released from the domaine?

Yes , it has now been released .
Fred , not sure what you mean : Coche wines are still fantastic , Leflaive has premox issues .

You mentioned that you miss the “Coche nose”.

I assumed you meant some of the matchstick/sulfur nose. Leflaive used to have that nose before their premox days. Now, no classic Leflaive nose anymore and now premox. Which is why I’m saying I hope Coche doesn’t go the way of Leflaive.

Thank you for the notes Herwig. 2015 was the first time I had the chance to buy the Boillot wines.

Thanks for the notes will try de 2010 Coche-Dury Perrieres in a few weeks!

BTW,- Jean-Francoise officially retired after the 2009 vintage and the winemaking duties in 2010 passed on to his son Raphael who has been working alongside his father since 2001 as well as his daughter-in-law Charline.

Thanks for the report Herwig.

Great notes - thanks. I’d give an appendage for some '10 Coche CC, and that’s probably what it’s gonna cost.

Great notes as always Herwig. Interesting observations and news also. Does anyone know how much less of the CC there is in 2010 ? I’ve never seen them hold back the MP. Any word on prices ?

MP has been held back a couple times, 96 being the first.

Great notes, Herwig.

I look forward to tasting the 2015s when I visit the Domaine in October or November.

There’s no secret to Jean-François Coche making these great wines. He must be one of the hardest-working vignerons. To get hold of him, I had to call either between 7 and 7:15 AM (after he finished breakfast and before he headed out to the vineyards) or between 7:30 and 7:45 PM (after he finished dinner and before he went to the winery). But on the last visit, he told me he can’t tend the vines for more than a few hours a day because he has back problems (from a lifetime of work in the vineyards). Raphaël is just as hard-working.

Khiem

Thanks Herwig, fascinating comparison. Very much enjoying H. Boillot’s wines these days.

Beautiful wine!
The Coche Dury 2001 CC stands for me as one of greatest wines that has ever graced my palette. The 2004 and 2007 didn’t suck either.