For those here that know me, (1) I buy and drink lots of Ridge and have for many years and (2) I have been complaining (whining, sure) about the uptick in the use of new oak in their Zins and Cabs these last handful of years. I found the entire lot of 2013s, which I bought aplenty, to be heavy-handed with new American oak. I was delighted to see a slight decrease in new oak in the Geyserville, and it showed beautifully, better to me than the last several years. And the 2015 has even less new oak, down to 5% (2014, 15%; 2013, 20%).
So I was sorta psyched to see the 2014 Estate Cab roll out, as it is a perrenial buy and QPR for me, one of the few Cali Cabs that I buy. Well, the winemaking cut-sheet is on the site, and the new American oak has actually increased more than 50% over 2013, which was more than 100% over prior years.
2014
70% at 19 mos.
2013
48% at 21 mos.
2012
20% at 21 mos.
2011
20% at 21 mos.
2010
16% at 22 mos.
2009
15% at 19 mos.
2008
40% at 20 mos.
(Not its most successful year)
I am psyched to buy the 2015 Geyserville, but am becoming far less enamored with continuing to buy the Estate Cabs. By the way, the 2013 Torre Cab was heavy on new oak as well (100% new), as is the 2014. I personally do not get it, they have excellent materials and winemaking skills, yet are allowing the new American oak to play a more pronounced role in the character of the wine. Even the winemaker’s note refers to oak twice:
Deep purple color. Aromas of blackcurrant, cherries, clove spice, > toasted oak> , and cocoa. Ripe bramble fruit entry, medium-full body, supple tannins, and > sweet oak> ; firm acid persists in a long finish. EB (1/17)
I know, many will chime in, “it needs more time”. I’ve drank enough Ridge over the last 25 years, including older vintages of Montebello, to make my own assessment there, whether new American oak actually does integrate enough for my palate, not to be a detractor. Montebello pulls it off decently, but the Estate Cab, the jury is out. It has not on the 2008, and I’m not so sure on the 2013. Not to say the 2013 is bad - its actually darn good - but the oak presence is pronounced.
I’m probably rambling a bit here, and perhaps have lost my point, but it’s disappointing to me. I will grab a 2014 Cab to try, but I may be bailing out, just like I have on Lytton (did grab some 2014s). I may be down to Geyserville only, which ironically, is what brought me to this winery with the incredible 1991 vintage and Geyserville bottling.