The Managing Director of Mouton Rothschild, Mr. Philippe Dhalluin was in town to present Château Mouton Rothschild at the 2017 Heart’s Delight’s Vintners Dinner & Auction. Mr. Bernard Burtschy, the wine writer for Le Figaro and a great friend, was also in town. So Bijan planned a Mouton vertical dinner in their honor. Twelve of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero to drink 13 vintages of Mouton. The tasting menu was good and complemented the wines very well. The wine service was exceptional as usual! The great classic private room was a big plus.
I am a big fan of the opulent fruit and seamless silky palate of Mouton. I am keenly aware that some wine lovers do not agree with the promotion of Mouton Rothschild to First Growth. For mY palate, this tasting clearly validated the Mouton’s first growth status. The wines showed beautifully, generous opulent fruit and seamless silky palate were impossible to resist. I was particularly surprised by the 52, 76, 89, 95 and 96. The 82, 86, 00, 05 and 09 also performed magnificently which weren’t surprisingly. Philippe was a great ambassador of Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a passionate wine lover with an encyclopedic knowledge of everything related to Chateau Mouton Rothschild.
Champagne
The 02 Dom seemed a bit awkward at the moment.
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2002 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
Very bright harmonious nose displaying candied lemon, pear and almond tart, brioche and white pepper. Fully integrated palate, very fine mousse, candied yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long sweet finish. This has reached the youthful peak. Drinking beautifully. (95 pts.) -
2002 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
I feel that the 02 Dom has entered the second stage of maturity. Very ripe nose displaying lemon curd, apple pie, cinnamon and honey. Excellent concentration, quite dense, ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, fine mousse, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long finish. This seems a bit disjoined and awkward. Upon release, this showed an excellent precision. I still believe this will be a great Champagne in another decade. (94 pts.) -
1990 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne
I last had this in March, 2014 and thought it was slightly advanced. This is very similar and I suspect this is correct showing. Decadent nose displaying apple pie, dry apricot, honey, spicy spices and toffee. Fully integrated palate, good acidity, shy mousse and a medium to long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. Though enjoyable, it would be even better with a bit more energy and freshness. (94 pts.)
White
The 86 Ygay GR was exceptional, a real deal.
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1986 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Blanco - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Beautiful elegant nose displaying subtle yellow fruit, peach, apricot, honeysuckle, acacia, a hint of sherry, spicy spices, noticeable lanoline, light honey and mineral. Perfectly harmonious, a hint of honey and lanoline driven palate impression, very polished and silky, beautifully layered, rich yet elegant and airy, perfect amount of acidity and a lovely long seamless finish. It is a serious wine yet so delicious. The nose constantly evolves and gains fruit weight. Excellent showing. (96 pts.) -
2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Quite fresh, displaying white fruit and strong mineral. I can’t get over the pyrazine. YMMV, depend on your GM sensitivity. (87 pts.)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild - Oldies
The 52 was spectacular, excellent concentration, still with generous sweet fruit. The 76 also showed extremely well. Not a bad wine to seek at auction.
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1952 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The fill is mid to low shoulder but the color is exceptional. I use Durand and the cork is quite tight and hard to pull. Expressive nose displaying intense cassis, dry blueberry, black cherry, mint, eucalyptus, leather, cedar, caramel, sous bois, dark spices and earth. The nose is incredibly detailed and the notes are quite clear, i.e. cassis, mint, eucalyptus and etc. are very distinctive. Yet, it remains perfectly harmonious. Initially, slightly disjointed hallow palate but with air, it quickly fills up, becoming generous and rich. Still showing excellent concentration, bright acidity, still a hint of tannins and the finish deeply resonates. It actually gains weight with air and doesn’t fall apart. Philippe has never had the 52 before. It is surprisingly concentrated, make me to look for more ‘52 Bordeauxs. It is WOTN for a lot of folks. This is an incredibly fresh example, so… no great wines, just great bottles apply here. (96 pts.) -
1976 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I have enjoyed a few of the 76 Bordeauxs in the past. Opulent sweet red fruit driven nose, cherry, plum, a hint of cassis, cedar, leather, very fine floral dust, eucalyptus and caramel. Fully integrated palate, warm and round, fully resolved tannins and a medium to long mature red fruit driven finish. I find the nose expression a bit straightforward. Nevertheless, this is a fully mature Bordeaux with opulent red fruit that is really enjoyable. @$250 at current auction, not a bad wine to seek. I would also love to try in magnum. (94 pts.)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild - 80s
IMO, the 86 Mouton is one of the great Bordeauxs of modern era. Some thought that the wine was too young. I loved it. I was pleasantly surprised by how well the 89 showed.
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1982 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Beautiful mature nose displaying cremes de cassis, cherry, plum, floral dust, tobacco, cedar, lead pencil and earth. Fully integrated sensual palate, silky and polished, beautifully layered, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a seamless long finish with a hint of cedar and caramel at the end. Excellent showing. (98 pts.) -
1986 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I am not going to lie. I love the 86 Mouton and consider it one of the greatest Bordeauxs. Explosive nose displaying intense creme de cassis, subtle floral perfume, liquid smoke, ink, caramel, cedar, milk chocolate, lead pencil and mineral. Mindboggling concentration, layers upon layers of cassis and ink driven fruit, silky and polished, a hint of sweet tannins and the finish that subtly resonates. This particular bottle is incredibly youthful yet perfectly hedonistic. A couple tasters mentions this being tight and young. Though youthful, I find the wine to be perfect. Phillipe mentions that there was no selection at Mouton in 1986. I wonder what would have happened if the Chateau had a second label. (100 pts.) -
1988 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Medium expressive nose displaying bright sweet red fruit, cherry, strawberry jam, plum, a hint of cassis, ash, a slightly unripe cabernet/bell pepper/pyrazine note that adds the freshness and eucalyptus. Medium concentration , slightly hollow middle palate, still a hint of dry tannins and a medium to long red fruit and ash driven finish. Perhaps the leanest and greenest wine of the night. (93 pts.) -
1989 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Youthful expressive nose displaying bright red fruit and cassis, very floral, sweet spices, dark milk chocolate, cedar and peppery mineral. Beautifully integrated palate, medium concentration, silky and polished, bright acidity and silky tannins and a long harmonious finish. I actually like the 89, for the harmony and balance. It is not an impressive but a classy Mouton. (95 pts.)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild - 90s
Both the 95 and 96 were showing incredibly well.
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1995 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
A lot more black fruit compare to the 88 and 89. Youthful nose displaying crème de cassis, roasted black fruit, mocha, lead pencil and dark spices. Excellent concentration, unctuous yet silky and polished, beautifully layered dark fruit, bright acidity, noticeable but silky tannins and a long cassis driven finish. The roasted fruit and the tannins are telltale signs of the 95. It has reach the youthful peak but certainly can improve for another decade or two. Excellent showing but slightly overshadowed by the 96. (96 pts.) -
1996 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive youthful nose displaying crème de cassis, crushed blackberry, ink, lead pencil, cedar and earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered cassis fruit, silk and polished, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long cassis driven finish. The fruit is purer than the 95. It resembles the 86 a lot in the purity and structure. Excellent showing. (97 pts.) -
1999 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Medium expressive nose displaying warm black fruit, black cherry, blackberry, mocha, mint and a hint of cedar. Neither as concentrated nor structured as the 95 or 96, soft, round, warm, nicely integrated tannins and a medium to long clean black fruit driven finish. It is a charming warm Mouton but a bit straightforward. It can still add a bit more tertiary notes but will get even softer. Based on the current auction values, the 95 and 96 provide much better value. (93 pts.)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild - 00s
I really liked how the 00 evolved. The 05 was spectacular and the 09 was quite primary but very promising.
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2000 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive nose displaying creme de cassis, surprisingly a good amount of red fruit, raspberry jam, plum, roasted nuts, coffee, lead pencil, and a hint of green and cedar. Sparingly harmonious palate compare to a few years ago when the wine felt slightly disjointed or overwhelming, beautifully layered, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long seamless finish. It is hard to believe that this is already 17 years old. This is coming together nicely, lost the youthful opulence but became polished and harmonious. It is already enjoyable but can improve for another decade or two. Really nice showing. (97 pts.) -
2003 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
It sticks out like a sore thumb especially in the vertical format. Soft and warm pruney nose, stewed fruit, dry cherry, very ripe red fruit, leather, tobacco and earth. Soft and round, good concentration, a slight hint of dry tannins and a hint of bitterness that clips the finish. For my palate, there are a lot of other/cheaper ’03 Bordeauxs, e.g. LB, LP, Montrose and etc,that are better. The auction price is close to the 95 and 96 which represent much better value, IMO. I hope that this will either magically transform or evolve like the 76. My least favorite Mouton of the night. (92 pts.) -
2005 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Very youthful yet harmonious and beautifully detailed nose displaying intense crème de cassis, wild Maine blueberry jam, ink, liquid smoke, dark milk chocolate, a hint of floral dust and lead pencil. Excellent concentration, incredibly layered, oily yet silky, weightless and polished, perfect amount of acidity, the tannins are masked by the sophisticated opulent fruit, and a long clean cassis and liquid smoke driven finish. Despite the opulent youthful fruit, the overall impression is quite calm and classic. It is surprisingly enjoyable but will improve for another few decades, hopefully becoming like the 59. Absolute pleasure! (98 pts.) -
2009 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Very primary nose displaying opulent black fruits, crushed blackberry, cassis, a hint of ink, mocha and cabernet floral dust. Excellent concentration, quite unctuous yet silky, cassis and sweet black fruit dominating palate impression, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long primary black fruit driven finish. Very young but very promising. I however prefer the silkiness and subtlety of the 05 slightly. Excellent showing. (96 pts.)
It was a memorable evening! A great time was had by all. My sincere thanks to Phillipe, Bernard and Bijan!
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