It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

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Alan Rath
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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1201 Post by Alan Rath » September 16th, 2020, 6:13 pm

Keith Levenberg wrote:
September 13th, 2020, 3:37 pm
By the way, for those playing along at home, "closing shades of nuance" gets its own square on the bingo card, separate from the unmodified nuance.
99 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous: “Like Tignanello, the 2016 Solaia is a wine of extraordinary nuance and finesse. Super-ripe blackberry, plum jam, espresso, menthol, licorice and sweet spice build as the sublime 2016 shows off its personality and breeding. The 2016 somehow manages to be incredibly deep and also light on its feet. Sweet floral and spice notes add the closing shades of nuance to an exotic, beguilingly beautiful Solaia endowed with an eternal finish and mind-blowing beauty. The 2016 is an epic Solaia. That's all there is to it.” 08/19
Antonio Galloni 96 points! "The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is elegant, plush and silky, like the 2012, but with a little more of everything. Dark cherry, plum, licorice, leather and espresso are all nicely lifted by the natural freshness of the year. At present, the 2016 is a bit shy, but it undoubtedly has a very bright future. Floral, perfumed notes add the closing shades of nuance. Spottswoode's Cabernet is quite gracious in 2016, not to mention incredibly delicious."
Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media: "The 2013 Barbaresco Pajè will leave readers weak at the knees with its stunning aromatics. Spicebox, cedar, tobacco, licorice and menthol speak to the essence of Pajè. A wine of depth and pedigree, the 2013 has a lot to offer. Orange peel, cinnamon, rose petal and mint add the closing shades of nuance in a deceptively medium-bodied Barbaresco that has plenty of backing structure and tannic clout to age well for many years to come."
Tasted from magnum, the 1996 Barolo is absolutely stunning. Vibrant and wonderfully alive, the 1996 exudes class. Time has gently softened the 1996 tannins, rendering the 1996 super-expressive today. Balsamic, mentholated notes, along with scents of tobacco and dried stone fruit continue to open up with time in the glass. The 1996 is still firm and quite powerful, but not as austere as many wines are in this vintage. Tar, licorice and scorched earth add the closing shades of nuance in an impeccably balanced, vivid Barolo that captures the personality of the vintage at its best.
A classic Stags Leap Cabernet, the 2014 exudes richness, power and depth. Graphite, crème de cassis, lavender, violets, chocolate and sweet spices infuse this beautifully expressive, sculpted Cabernet Sauvignon. Chocolate, inky black fruits and a dollop of new oak add the closing shades of nuance. The tannins need time to siften, but there is plenty to look forward to. The 2014 is gorgeous. It’s as simple as that. – Antonio Galloni, Oct. 2016
Ridge's 2013 Zinfandel Paso Robles, from the Benito Dusi Ranch, exudes Paso warmth and richness. Unquestionably racy and overt, the 2013 offers striking depth and intensity, with a slightly roasted, sweet quality to the fruit. Sweet tobacco, cedar and dried herbs add closing shades of nuance, but the 2013 remains quite opulent in style. Still, all the elements are in the right place. The 2013 could use a few years to soften. It will be appreciated most by readers who enjoy intense, super-ripe Zinfandels. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
This has me worried “shades of nuance” is some kind of code to wake up a dormant sleeper cell.
I'm just one lost soul, swimming in a fish bowl, year after year

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1202 Post by John Morris » September 16th, 2020, 6:22 pm

Judging by the repetition, it looks like they’ve slept the alarm.
"But they told me there would be a hand basket."

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1203 Post by Leonard Maran » September 16th, 2020, 9:57 pm

In another thread a negotiant throws around phrases like "uber pure", "just a bit of air it turns cologne-like", "sexy red and black fruit", "a resplendent finish", "kiss of brett, leather upholstery", "mysterious deep and savory tones", "nutmeg and brown sugar, blackberry syrup". Of course, this is mailing list only (a hallmark of this site), so it matters not that you do not know what you are buying.
Last edited by Leonard Maran on September 16th, 2020, 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1204 Post by Leonard Maran » September 16th, 2020, 10:02 pm

My palate aligns with Galloni and I don't care about his prose. Actually, aside from Charlie Olken (California), he's the only critic I do trust for wines from California and Italy.

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1205 Post by John Morris » September 20th, 2020, 10:27 am

We've discussed "vertical" as a descriptor before. In most cases, I don't have a clue what the critic means when he/she uses it. As William Kelley said many pages back, it seemed once to be in contrast to a wine that is broad or expansive, and the French use the equivalent to refer to a wine with a good spine of acid. But what on earth does it mean here, both "dense and vertical"?
2015 Bruno Giacosa - Barolo - Falletto
"Superb aromas of ripe fruit, such as plums and berries with peaches and tar. Very intense. Full body, great depth and density. Incredible richness and power with superb length and persistence. One of the most dense and vertical Falletos I have tasted."-James Suckling, 95 points
(Peach scents in a Barolo?!?)
"But they told me there would be a hand basket."

"I'm not slurring my words. I'm speaking cursive."

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1206 Post by K.C0LBURN » September 20th, 2020, 11:56 am

John Morris wrote:
September 20th, 2020, 10:27 am
We've discussed "vertical" as a descriptor before. In most cases, I don't have a clue what the critic means when he/she uses it. As William Kelley said many pages back, it seemed once to be in contrast to a wine that is broad or expansive, and the French use the equivalent to refer to a wine with a good spine of acid. But what on earth does it mean here, both "dense and vertical"?
2015 Bruno Giacosa - Barolo - Falletto
"Superb aromas of ripe fruit, such as plums and berries with peaches and tar. Very intense. Full body, great depth and density. Incredible richness and power with superb length and persistence. One of the most dense and vertical Falletos I have tasted."-James Suckling, 95 points
(Peach scents in a Barolo?!?)
(You do have to wonder, don't you?)
K A T H E R I N E

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1207 Post by RichardFlack » September 20th, 2020, 12:52 pm

Alan Rath wrote:
September 16th, 2020, 6:13 pm
Keith Levenberg wrote:
September 13th, 2020, 3:37 pm
By the way, for those playing along at home, "closing shades of nuance" gets its own square on the bingo card, separate from the unmodified nuance.
99 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous: “Like Tignanello, the 2016 Solaia is a wine of extraordinary nuance and finesse. Super-ripe blackberry, plum jam, espresso, menthol, licorice and sweet spice build as the sublime 2016 shows off its personality and breeding. The 2016 somehow manages to be incredibly deep and also light on its feet. Sweet floral and spice notes add the closing shades of nuance to an exotic, beguilingly beautiful Solaia endowed with an eternal finish and mind-blowing beauty. The 2016 is an epic Solaia. That's all there is to it.” 08/19
Antonio Galloni 96 points! "The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is elegant, plush and silky, like the 2012, but with a little more of everything. Dark cherry, plum, licorice, leather and espresso are all nicely lifted by the natural freshness of the year. At present, the 2016 is a bit shy, but it undoubtedly has a very bright future. Floral, perfumed notes add the closing shades of nuance. Spottswoode's Cabernet is quite gracious in 2016, not to mention incredibly delicious."
Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media: "The 2013 Barbaresco Pajè will leave readers weak at the knees with its stunning aromatics. Spicebox, cedar, tobacco, licorice and menthol speak to the essence of Pajè. A wine of depth and pedigree, the 2013 has a lot to offer. Orange peel, cinnamon, rose petal and mint add the closing shades of nuance in a deceptively medium-bodied Barbaresco that has plenty of backing structure and tannic clout to age well for many years to come."
Tasted from magnum, the 1996 Barolo is absolutely stunning. Vibrant and wonderfully alive, the 1996 exudes class. Time has gently softened the 1996 tannins, rendering the 1996 super-expressive today. Balsamic, mentholated notes, along with scents of tobacco and dried stone fruit continue to open up with time in the glass. The 1996 is still firm and quite powerful, but not as austere as many wines are in this vintage. Tar, licorice and scorched earth add the closing shades of nuance in an impeccably balanced, vivid Barolo that captures the personality of the vintage at its best.
A classic Stags Leap Cabernet, the 2014 exudes richness, power and depth. Graphite, crème de cassis, lavender, violets, chocolate and sweet spices infuse this beautifully expressive, sculpted Cabernet Sauvignon. Chocolate, inky black fruits and a dollop of new oak add the closing shades of nuance. The tannins need time to siften, but there is plenty to look forward to. The 2014 is gorgeous. It’s as simple as that. – Antonio Galloni, Oct. 2016
Ridge's 2013 Zinfandel Paso Robles, from the Benito Dusi Ranch, exudes Paso warmth and richness. Unquestionably racy and overt, the 2013 offers striking depth and intensity, with a slightly roasted, sweet quality to the fruit. Sweet tobacco, cedar and dried herbs add closing shades of nuance, but the 2013 remains quite opulent in style. Still, all the elements are in the right place. The 2013 could use a few years to soften. It will be appreciated most by readers who enjoy intense, super-ripe Zinfandels. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
This has me worried “shades of nuance” is some kind of code to wake up a dormant sleeper cell.
I think he just means “finishing touch”. But this is a great game.

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1208 Post by RichardFlack » September 20th, 2020, 12:53 pm

Leonard Maran wrote:
September 16th, 2020, 9:57 pm
In another thread a negotiant throws around phrases like "uber pure", "just a bit of air it turns cologne-like", "sexy red and black fruit", "a resplendent finish", "kiss of brett, leather upholstery", "mysterious deep and savory tones", "nutmeg and brown sugar, blackberry syrup". Of course, this is mailing list only (a hallmark of this site), so it matters not that you do not know what you are buying.
“Kiss of Brett , leather upholstery “ sounds like quite the fetish.

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1209 Post by John Morris » September 23rd, 2020, 11:32 am

So which is it? First it's "ample, creamy and expansive," then it's not as "rich and powerful" as normal and instead is fresh, finessed and tranluscent -- all implying that it's not so ample and expansive.
2016 Sandrone Barolo Aleste

"The 2016 Barolo Aleste is ample, creamy and expansive in feel. But more than that, the 2016 stands out for its freshness, persistence and brilliance. In so many vintages, the Aleste (formerly known as Cannubi Boschis) has been rich and powerful in feel, but in 2016, the wine is all about finesse. The red-fruited, floral purity of Nebbiolo comes through beautifully here; I especially admire the wine’s translucence. Wow." --Antonio Galloni, Vinous 98
"But they told me there would be a hand basket."

"I'm not slurring my words. I'm speaking cursive."

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1210 Post by John Morris » September 28th, 2020, 3:03 pm

Huh?
“The 2016 [Ulysses Napa] Cabernet Sauvignon is fabulous. Bright, powerful and pulsing with energy, the 2016 possesses stunning textural depth allied to a real sense of drive. Black cherry, tobacco, menthol, sage and licorice give this Cabernet from southern Oakville much of its distinctive personality. In this tasting, the 2016 Ulysses simply towers with pedigree and character. I loved it. Although the track record is short, the 2016 is the finest wine Christian Moueix and Tod Mostero have made at Ulysses. 98+ Points.”
(Keep those cards and letters coming in folks!)
"But they told me there would be a hand basket."

"I'm not slurring my words. I'm speaking cursive."

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1211 Post by John Morris » September 28th, 2020, 3:49 pm

Time for a quick survey of wines with pedigree (bolded), which evidently is now an attribute of the wine in the bottle, like a flavor or aroma. It is often conjoined with class. (Other intriguing descriptors in red.)
2008 Louis Roederer Brut Cristal Rose
"The 2008 Cristal Rosé is all tension, nuance and class. Fresh and utterly brilliant, the 2008 bristles on the palate with pure pedigree. In the glass, the 2008 is at once translucent, weightless and powerful. Readers should be in no hurry to drink the 2008, a wine that will age effortlessly for many, many decades to come."-Antonio Galloni
2017 Raen Pinot Noir Royal St. Robert Cuvee
"The 2017 Pinot Noir Royal St. Robert is absolutely gorgeous. A wild array of floral and savory notes make a strong opening statement. Expressive and multi-faceted, the Royal St. Robert is positively dazzling from the very first taste. The interplay of fruit, whole cluster savoriness and structure results in a captivating Pinot that has more than enough pedigree to reward a number of years of cellaring. This is a brilliant showing. Wow!" -Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94
2018 Tensley Syrah Colson Canyon
"A wine of immense pedigree and stature, the 2018 Syrah Colson Canyon Vineyard captures the essence of Joey Tensley's style. Soaring aromatics, dense fruit and beams of tannin shape a Syrah of intense richness and savory depth. The Colson Canyon Syrah is a wine of tremendous dimension that gets better and better with time in the glass. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, iron and bright red fruit build into the palate-staining finish. All I can say is: Wow!!" -Antonio Galloni, Vinous 97
2009 Bond Cabernet Sauvignon St. Eden
"The 2009 Proprietary Blend St. Eden is simply stunning. A rich, resonant bouquet melds seamlessly into layers of fruit as the 2009 shows off its breathtaking pedigree and sheer class. There is virtually no perception of tannin in this voluptuous, beautifully balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. Freshly cut roses and a hint of cinnamon add complexity on the finish, but ultimately the St. Eden is first and foremost a wine of textural brilliance and spherical palate presence." -- WA 97, Antonio Galloni
2014 Fontodi Chianti Classico
"Fontodi's 2014 Chianti Classico is one of the most finessed vintages of this wine in recent memory. The combination of the cool growing conditions and a move toward larger oak casks has resulted in a deep yet translucent wine of notable pedigree and class. There is plenty of the typical Panzano richness, but less of the overt weight that has characterized some recent vintages."-Antonio Galloni, Vinous 92
2017 Ridge Lytton Springs
"Ridge's 2017 Lytton Springs opens up beautifully, with bright acids that drive a whole range of red/purplish fruit intermingled with floral notes. Creamy and ample in feel, the 2017 boasts superb balance and pedigree. Readers lucky enough to owe it should plan on cellaring it for at least a few years."-Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94
2016 Ch Margaux Margaux
"A gorgeous, captivating bouquet gives the 2016 Margaux an irresistible allure. Weightless and yet wonderfully persistent, in the way only the château's wines can be, the 2016 Grand Vin is a wine of exceptional breeding and pedigree. So many wines in this vintage are obvious, but Margaux is a wine that takes time to discover, like a great book or piece of music. Shades of tobacco, cedar, mint, licorice and bright, red-toned fruit reveal themselves over time. And yet it is a sense of total harmony and seductiveness that elevates Margaux into the stratosphere in 2016."-Antonio Galloni. Vinous 99
(Note breeding = pedigree)
"But they told me there would be a hand basket."

"I'm not slurring my words. I'm speaking cursive."

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1212 Post by RichardFlack » September 28th, 2020, 3:58 pm

the 2008 bristles on the palate with pure pedigree.
That sounds quite unappetising.

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1213 Post by Jayson Cohen » September 28th, 2020, 4:50 pm

Maybe Vinous should implement new features for each regional review: Best in Breed; Best in Show.

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1214 Post by Marcu$ Stanley » September 29th, 2020, 12:33 pm

"bristling with pedigree" would actually be a great literary description of a particularly snobbish and arrogant aristocrat

I think one reason these guys like the "pedigree" descriptor is because it fits well with the branding game of giving sky-high scores year after year to the same small group of wines with sky-high prices. "This wine traces its bloodline to the ancient and honorable house of 98 points!"

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1215 Post by Jonathan Loesberg » September 29th, 2020, 1:27 pm

John, assuming the critics you quote actually read this and are ashamed enough into amending their ways, you will be doing a public service. Assuming, as I expect is the case, that they either do not read this or, if they do, react with standard defensiveness and go on their merry way, you might consider whether you are needlessly inflicting pain on yourself. I do admit that I am regularly amused, though.

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Re: It's critic bingo! (Dept. of Neologisms)

#1216 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » September 29th, 2020, 2:55 pm

Jonathan Loesberg wrote:
September 29th, 2020, 1:27 pm
John, assuming the critics you quote actually read this and are ashamed enough into amending their ways, you will be doing a public service. Assuming, as I expect is the case, that they either do not read this or, if they do, react with standard defensiveness and go on their merry way, you might consider whether you are needlessly inflicting pain on yourself. I do admit that I am regularly amused, though.
Ha, worth it at every level.

Galloni pops in from time to time.

"@lf3rt was clearly raised in an outhouse in the Loire. . . ."

Kenny H (circa 2015)

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