Flavor Napa Valley Trip Report (plus a few extras - VHR, EMH, MACDONALD, and others)

OK folks,

Having just crossed the 25 post barrier after two years of sparse commenting and even longer with merely lurking, I thought I’d contribute a trip report from last week to the community. We attended the 6th annual Flavor! Napa Valley event, which was a combination of food and wine classes, dinners, and tasting events, all benefiting the Culinary Institute of America Greystone at St. Helena. This was a five day extravaganza, which we added to with a few side visits, some of which may be familiar to the board.

Now some comments about how I usually rate wines in my notes:

• I’m not a tasting note poet. Generating adjectives at length to describe wines doesn’t come naturally to me yet. Maybe in time.
• The Mrs. has a better taste for quality than I do, so some notes are leveraged from her.
• I don’t use the 80-100 scale as I’d rather not get into what constitutes a 95 vs a 94 or 96, although I sincerely respect those who have the proven expertise to do so.
• Instead, I give a simple 1-5 rating for my own later reference:
  1.0 Undrinkable
  2.0 I don’t like it. Others might.
  3.0 It’s just OK
  4.0 I like this wine.
  4.5 I really like this wine, I’d buy it
  5.0 I would go out of my way to buy it
  If the Mrs mentions (particularly without prompting) that she likes the wine, then I’ll add an asterisk to highlight it. In this way I’m not looking to say that two wines with the same rating have equal quality, simply that I have roughly an equal desire to acquire or drink them.

Day 1: Anaba, VHR, and First Taste Napa

Anaba Wines
On the way into the valley from SFO, we stopped in at Anaba Wines in Sonoma County. This is where we first joined a wine club several years ago, early in our journey into the wine world. They produce some Rhone varietals, in addition to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all in a decent range of $25-40, and they typically do a nice job with them.

2015 Anaba Wines Viognier, Landa Vineyard 4
2014 Anaba Wines Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 4.5*
2014 Anaba Wines Turbine White 4*
2013 Anaba Wines Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 4.5
2013 Anaba Wines Pinot Noir, RRV, Dutton Ranch Vineyard 4.5
2013 Anaba Wines Pinot Noir, Las Brisas Vineyard 4+

Vine Hill Ranch
On to lunch at Bistro Jeanty (always good), and then on to VHR in the afternoon. Heather Phillips hosted us and showed us around the property, as Bruce Phillips was away, although he joined us at the end. This is a great property. Heather explained the history behind VHR, and showed us the different blocks of the property and their character. The ground cover was quite healthy, reaching up to waist level in some places, although the vineyard otherwise wasn’t muddy. In regards to the wet winter that the region experienced, she said that while it didn’t affect the vines, the rains should be good for replenishing the microbiology of the soil that the vines depend on. Bruce estimated bud break could be a couple of weeks away.

Another interesting comment was that vineyards in the valley are at the point post-phylloxera where decisions will have to be made about quality vs yield. Vines replanted in the wake of phylloxera a couple decades ago are now reaching the point where yield may start to go down, yet older vines have a character that young vines don’t necessarily have. Vineyard owners and wineries will need to determine which way they will go.

In all we had a great time to chat with the Phillips’, sit on their porch listening to the wind machines going through test runs, and savor the 2014 VHR together. Not much to say about the wine except that it is outstanding and we’ll continue to buy it. On another note, VHR comes in a nice cedar wood box that is nailed shut, intended to reflect the heritage of the site. Advice is to use a butter knife to help pry the lid open.

First Taste Napa
The First Taste Napa event took place at COPIA, which famously was intended as a Food/Wine/Arts center and funded by Robert & Margrit Mondavi, among others, but never became a success and sat empty until the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) purchased it, and reopened it just earlier this year.

Our time at VHR ran a bit long, so we were late to the event, although it was an open tasting format with many restaurants serving small bites and wineries serving pours.
Food highlights: Many good things happening in the valley, but Torc hit it out of the park, and Tarla was quite popular as well. Those were our two favorites.

Wine highlights: We made a few random stops, and ended up lingering at Phifer Pavitt & Switchback Ridge, which are separate wineries but combine their marketing and customer service. We were quite surprised by how good these were.
Phifer Pavitt Date Night Sauvignon Blanc 2016 4*
Phifer Pavitt Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 4.5*
Switchback Ridge Merlot 2013 4.5* - really liked this one
Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 N/A** - too early to tell in my view, but the Mrs was very positive about it.
Switchback Ridge Petit Sirah N/A - still thinking about the Merlot

I don’t have notes recorded for the few other places we tried. It was a bit loud and crowded in there. Also, sometimes I forgot to write notes.

Day 2: Inglenook, EMH, and Flavor Napa Valley Icons dinner w/ Heidi Barrett

This day was relatively open in regards to the Flavor Napa Valley event schedule, so we made a couple of stops during the day, before going to the formal dinner that evening.

Inglenook
We’d curious to stop by for a visit in our last visit to the area, but didn’t have time, so we did so this time. They’ve changed to an odd system where you park up front first at a welcome center of sorts because the path to the actual winery itself is gated off. In the center they phone you in for whatever it is you wanted to do (e.g. a tasting session), then give you a pass; you then get back in your car, drive to the gate, use the pass to open the gate, and then go in to actually park at the winery. Not sure why they do it this way.


The property itself is quite beautiful, of course, and we were blessed with a clear morning. The wines themselves were noticeably more European, with everything more integrated and smooth, and not blatantly tannic.

Inglenook Blancaneaux 2015 4*
Inglenook Edizione Penino Zinfandel 2014 4*
Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 4.5*
Inglenook Rubicon Cabernet Sauvignon 4.5*

Not sure I would pay $210 retail for the Rubicon, although it is very good, but $158 is much more like it.

Lunch was a short drive down to Yountville, where Ad Hoc’s Addendum had just opened up for the season, offering a choice of Ad Hoc’s Fried Chicken or Lobster Rolls. I would most certainly do those again.

EMH Vineyards
We reserved time to make a visit up to Calistoga and see Merrill and her corner of Pickett Rd in Calistoga. The cats were out and about somewhat, going in and out of the house or lounging on the porch. And we were inside, enjoying the 2006 Black Cat, 2012 SS Black Cat, and 2014 Black Cat cabernets.

Our experience with older cabernets has been limited so far, but the 2006 was quite surprising, at least to me, of how fresh and bright it was. The younger Black Cats were that much more vibrant in comparison, of course, but the Mrs with her better palate for quality kept going back to the 2006. We used the opportunity to pick up our BD order, plus two of the 2006 and one more of the 2011.

Note that Merrill says that the 2015 offer will go out starting next month, so be sure to get in on it. The Mrs doesn’t venture into online wine communities, but with this visit she now is a fan of Merrill and her work, much like many here.

Flavor Napa Valley Icons Dinner
The honored guest for the Icons Dinner was none other then Heidi Barrett, who I assume needs little introduction. It took place at the Silverado Resort, with a number of guest chefs providing the food, and La Sirena wines pared with it.

1st course: Tuna and Caviar with Onion Ponzu, Scallion, Pickled Radish
Chef: Michael Schulson (Schulson Collective, Philadelphia, PA)
Wine: La Sirena 2015 Muscat Azul 4*

2nd course (1): Bacon Wrapped Pork Tenderloin
Chef (1): Ken Frank (La Toque, Napa, CA)
2nd course (2): Squab wrapped with prosciutto, Foie Gras
Chef (2): Waldy Malouf (CIA)
Wine: La Sirena 2013 Grenache 4*

3rd course (1): Roasted Liberty Farms Duck
Chef (1): Stuart Brioza (State Bird Provisions and The Progress, SF, CA)
3rd course (2): Wagu Beef Shortrib
Chef (2) Matthew Accarrino (SPQR, SF, CA)
Wine: La Sirena 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon 4.5*

4th course: Bittersweet Chocolate & Greengage Plum Cake
Chef: Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions and The Progress, SF, CA)
Wine: Pirate 2013 TreasuRED 4*

Heidi and Bo Barrett, along with Heidi’s father and one of their daughters, were at the next table over. After dinner we went over and said hello to Heidi and Bo and told her that we enjoyed her wines this evening, and got a picture as well. So that was a pretty neat experience.

Thanks for the notes and photos, Tom. Looks like a great trip.

What was your top wine of the trip?

I’m not sure I can narrow it down to just one single top wine, so I’ll punt and say MACDONALD '14 (coming on Day 4). Days 3-5 to be posted later today.

Tom,

What did the '12 EMH SS taste like? Nice report.

Awesome report Tom - appreciate you taking the time to post it.

VHR is top of my list in regards to places I’d like to visit.

Did you taste the '15 EMH?

Thanks so much for sharing your experiences, those beautiful photos and some of what you learned.

I found this fascinating:

Another interesting comment was that vineyards in the valley are at the point post-phylloxera where decisions will have to be made about quality vs yield. Vines replanted in the wake of phylloxera a couple decades ago are now reaching the point where yield may start to go down, yet older vines have a character that young vines don’t necessarily have. Vineyard owners and wineries will need to determine which way they will go.

… and appreciate that you shared these insights beyond just the tasting notes!

Thank you for that perfect vicarious thrill.

Seems like a great trip! Thanks for sharing. I had grand plans to condense two recent Napa trips to share, with tasting notes, dinner reviews, and overall impressions, but life and work has gotten in the way. This inspires me to carve out some time at some point and share some nuggets.

I will say that I visited Alex at MACDONALD and yes, their 2014 is going to be AMAZING…

Another word of thanks. It as been a few years since our last trip to Napa and Sonoma and we keep saying we won’t go back as we have been out west about a dozen times in 15+ years. Reading your words makes us reconsider and begin thinking about this fall.

Cheers,
Curt

Looking forward to the rest of your notes. I didn’t realize there were more days to follow. Finally some Napa talk on WB.

I had the 14 MacDonald last September, but it was just shortly after bottling and it was a pop and pour, with no decant. It was really tight but you could still tell it was going to be awesome. Can’t wait to hear your more recent thoughts on it.

Dan, I don’t get the opportunity to taste my Special Selections much, due to their small lot bottlings. I was liking the 12SS a lot, and I have shared it with friends since then, and they were all over it. More than the 2006 and the 2014. I only produced 30 cases of that 2012SS, so I think tasting notes will be sparse. If you or anyone here has it, it is in a nice place now, but not going over that cliff any time soon.

I always remember an early tasting note you wrote that said “tastes like grapes.” That would be the 2012SS .

Michael - 2015 is still in barrel until first week of June. But I can tell you that there are 3 offerings, each with its place in the EMH lineup.

The government has approved and all artwork is done for a new label named “Lady Sapphire.” The “Sparkles” follow-on, which I did not intend, but when a single barrel stands out, barrel tasting after barrel tasting, why not? For label geeks, this one has 3 colors: Blue metallic (Sapphire) for the name and redesigned necklace. All other print is silver, as the original “regular” Black Cat. Lady Sapphire is my one year old kitten, and she is worthy. So 25 cases of pure Black Cat. Also the Special Selection (gold cap) will be offered in 750ml and also a few magnums. That offer will go live sometime in early April (soon!).

In order to give your credit card relief, the regular Black Cat will be offered, as usual, in June.

Shipping will be charged at the time of order for the 2015s, to simplify admin. As always, I am here for questions and comments, posted or private.

I figured it was early, but I wasn’t sure if you had a secret barrel sample stash for visitors.

Thanks for chiming in, Merrill! I was going to cite my writer’s block when it comes to generating tasting notes. All to say that we really liked it as well. We liked all three for sure.

Perhaps for you.

We’re sipping the '14 Black Cat right now. Holy cow Merrill. Great wine. I can only imagine what the SS and the Sparkles tastes like that are sitting in our cellar.

Thanks everyone for the kind feedback so far. Who says online wine boards have to be brutal?

Day 3: More Flavor Napa Valley events - Learning about ice cream, “cult” wines, and a dinner featuring newer chefs on the scene

Flavor Napa Valley: Chef Demo with Tyler Malek and Lisa Vega
Flavor Napa Valley is tilted more towards the wine side of things, but still has a heavy food component. We had a morning “Chef Demo” class featuring Tyler Malek of Salt & Straw, and Lisa Vega of Dandelion Chocolate. Any true Portlander knows the wonders of Salt & Straw, an ice cream shop offering some very interesting combinations like Stumptown coffee and bourbon, pear and blue cheese, etc. I won’t go at length here since no wines were involved, but one takeaway was that making ice cream itself is actually pretty easy. That won’t stop the long lines around town at their shops, though.

CIA Copia shares a parking lot with the excellent Oxbow Market in Napa, but we stayed in and had lunch at the creatively named Restaurant at CIA Copia. You could sit at the bar and watch the chefs at work. And you know they’ll be on top of their game.

Flavor Napa Valley Wine Class: Extreme Napa Valley - Cult Wines and Food Pairings

Panelists:
Steve Matthiasson, Winemaker/Proprietor, Matthiasson Wines
John Kongsgaard, Winemaker/Proprietor, Kongsgaard
Shari Staglin, Co-Founder/Proprietor, Staglin Family Vineyard
Cleo Pahlmeyer, President, Pahlmeyer Wine

Steve Matthiason brought his Ribolla Gialla, noting that in all of the U.S. there is probably just 5 acres planted to this grape. It has a low 12.2% ABV, yet is full bodied. It was made like a red wine, being fermented on the skins and stems to give it mouthfeel. The character was described as savory, with celery salt and oyster shell characteristics. It is popular in Japan, where it works well as a counterpart to the cuisine, and in Denmark for similar reasons. He said it “will age forever.”

John Kongsgaard started by talking about how Chardonnay was not on the scene in Napa 50 years ago, when he was growing up. The Chardonnay he brought (it wasn’t The Judge but his Napa Valley chard) was sourced from two vineyards in Carneros, belonging to Lee Hudson and Larry Hyde. He picked riper than Matthiason, towards 24-24.5 Brix, then it spends 2 years in barrel, vs the typical 10 months for chardonnay. The grapes he gets are “little tiny grapes,” leading to more skin vs juice, and more tannins as a result. After 1 year in barrel, the wine would still be too tannic, but the 2nd year “allows the fruit to go to the horizon and minerality to the forefront.” His stated goal was “to be like Burgundy of the 1980s.”

Shari Staglin provided a brief history of her family’s wine venture, which started in 1985 in Rutherford. The vineyard itself was planted in the 19th century by a family from Missouri knowledgeable in grapes, but was taken out during Prohibition, and then replanted by Andre Tschelistcheff in the 1960s, and replanted since in 1985. She brought a 2011 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, describing the challenges of that vintage, but indicating that this wine has now has become a favorite. She also shared an interesting anecdote where in that last replanting they had a part of the vineyard that their vineyard manager and experts all agreed would be best suited to plant merlot, and they called up Andre Tschelistcheff and he also recommended that they plant merlot there. But she wanted chardonnay, and that’s what ultimately went in.

Cleo Pahlmeyer also gave a brief summary of her family’s winery, stating the philosophy that the goal is to be Bordeaux in style. The 2013 that she brought comes from the family’s estate vineyard on Atlas Peak.

Matthiason Ribolla Gialla 2014 4*
Kongsgaard Chardonnay 2013 4.5*
Staglin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 4* (a bit of red bell pepper spiciness)
Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red 2013 4.5* (the Mrs. notes “light, sweet, hint of cinnamon”)

The food pairings consisted of Point Reyes Original Blue, Point Reyes Baby Blue, salumi and country pate from the Fatted Calf in Napa, and Hackleback caviar and Kaluga caviar from SF’s Caviar Company.

Flavor Napa Valley Dinner: New Stars of Napa Valley Presented by Robert Mondavi
This was a sit down dinner affair onsite at Robert Mondavi to showcase new chefs on the scene, although Press has arguably proven itself by now.

Schramsberg Brut Carneros 2011 3* For some reason I didn’t like this one. I’ve liked other Schramsbergs and the Mrs liked this one, though.
Robert Mondavi Oakville Fume Blanc 2013 4*
Robert Mondavi Maestro Red Blend 2013 4+* I was pleasantly surprised by this one, having only seen ads for it until now.
Robert Mondavi To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013 4.5+*
Robert Mondavi Moscato d’Oro 2014 4*

Day 4 report coming up in a few hours.

Man, killer trip and notes Tom. Keep this stuff coming buddy - really enjoying it!