Weekend of Pernot and Dujac

Friend up from CA for the weekend and he still keeps his wine here I Portland so usually an interesting wine or two when he is here.

2007 Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet: Still lightly straw colored. Fresh and brightly fruited nose. Some bottle age richness, but generally speaking still a very nice combination of the nature of the vintage and the style of the village. Easy to like. Not thunderously complex but delicious, fresh and clean Chardonnay.

2007 Paul Pernot Bienvenue-Batard Montrachet: much deeper golden color to this than the PM but likely due to obvious higher percentage of new barrel and perhaps even longer barrel aging. Definitely shows barrel tones with opulent fruits and an olive oil over stones sort of character. Viscous and textured without being alcoholic or obvious. Holds its size together nicely. Long with the texture folding into some back end structure. This all being said the person whose this was found it pre-moxxed and moved off of it (more for me!) and decided, yes, to see if another bottle of it the next day would show differently so…we had it again the next day and while it may have shown slightly more brightness in the 2nd bottle I would attribute this more to bottle variation than anything. Thought both were delicious and glad he found the first wanting so we could run it back the next day.

2004 Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny: I definitely found the GMs here. Pretty typical in the sense that there was clearly stylish, relatively youthful and nice material underneath but this, to my senses, was too much representative of the downside of this vintage (and I actually not only don’t mind the 2004s but have had a distinct run of very nice wines as of late).

2005 Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny: Quite the wine. Young and jumpy but not so much so that it was shrouded in either baby fat and/or youthful tannin. Has the extra bump of dark fruit ripeness that the vintage seems to carry but handles it gracefully and while it edges to darker tones still busts out the CM redder notes as its primary focus. Lovely character and spot on texture. Punches above the weight class and was truly very, very tasty. Years in front of it but by no means a crime to enjoy now.

Great notes, Jim. I’ve found 2007 to be the best drinking recent white burgundy vintage for my palate and I also find 2004 red burgundy to be better than its reputation.

have had several 07 premoxed Pernots. I think yours was.

Huh?! I thought Pernot was one of the safe ones aside from their solitary issue with 95 Batard. I have a LOT of 13-15 in the cellar…

Except that it wasn’t.

Jim - certainly doesn’t sound like premox to me based on your note. At 9-10 years old some wines and vintages are just mature :slight_smile:! I’ve actually seen it with GCs quite often - e.g. a recent '06 CBM was much more mature than the 1er from the same stable. Sure, bottle variation plays a part, but I also think there might be links to ripeness and extract in some cases. Funnily enough, I’ve not had a “fully mature” village Puligny yet (out of dozens) but several fully mature GCs and 1ers.

I also put Pernot in the “safe from premox” category, but have had 2 shot bottles of '01 Batard and in general advanced wines across the board in 2007–for me the least consistent of Pernot vintages in the past 15+ years. Happened to have the '02 Pernot Batard on Saturday (and the '02 Dujac CSD for thread continuity) that was a big wine that took several hours of air to really strut its stuff.

Thanks for the notes, Jim, a
As always great to read you on burgundy varietals–can really get a picture of what tasting the wine might be like.

Just had here in Paris (at Ambassade de Bourgogne) a '90 Puligny Montrachet, Rauno from one of the Amiot clan; it was indeed fully mature, but not pre-moxed nor even over the hill. It was just beautifully soft, with the fruit, oak, and minerals perfectly integrated and balanced…