As many of you already know, each year in February and March I host a series of white burgundy vintage appraisal and oxidation check dinners in Los Angeles. We taste the vintage which is then 7.5 years from the date of harvest, and we usually taste 60 to 75 of the top wines from the vintage over the course of three nights. This was our twelfth consecutive year of holding these dinners and this year the vintage was 2009. Fot the 2009 vintage, we held only two dinners – with a total of 62 wines tasted – on March 1 and March 15.
On Wednesday March 1, fourteen of us gathered in the Gold Room at Valentino to taste thirty-one of the top 2009 Chablis, Meursault and Corton Charlemagnes. With 434 stems required for the burgundies, we once again taxed the limits of the restaurant, but Valentino’s wine director, Paul Sherman, handled it splendidly. The wine service was flawless as usual.
Valentino, which is owned by Pierro Selvaggio, has been a fixture of the Los Angeles fine dining scene for decades. It is well known for its Wine Spectator Grand Award winning wine cellar as well as its Italian regional cuisine. The dinner arrangements were well planned by Giuseppe Mollica, Valentino’s director of special events, and the service was top notch as always.
The wines and food courses are set forth below. All of the wines were served blind and none of the attendees knew the identity of our one ringer for night one. All of the voting was completely blind with the attendees ranking their top five wines identified by the number on the glass.
Appetizer Course
Oysters, Frico, Grilled Flat Bed Pizza, Shrimp Milanese, Bruschetta With Wild Arugula And Parmiggiano Schegge
Bruschetta With Wild Arugula And Parmiggiano Schegge
2004 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee Champagne (two 750 ml)
Light gold color; citrus, biscuit and lemon zest aromas; bright citrusy flavors with a lightly toasty element which adds complexity; a very long citrus and minerals finish. Very nice champagne. 94
Flight One – Grand Cru Chablis (and one 1er)
Crab Cake with white wine caper sauce
#1 [2009 Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre]
Light gold color; sweet lemon (Meyer lemon) aromas; very light lemon flavors, and a mid-palate which is mostly some glyceryl effect and some modest minerals; this is a fairly thin wine. Group Rank: Tied for 17th, 1 points (0/0/0/0/1) 90
#2 [2009 Dauvissat Chablis Preuses]
Color between light and medium gold; distinct honeysuckle aromas that remind me much more of BBM than Chablis; light green apple and citrus flavors; this has better acidity than #1, but less minerality; a light mineral finish. Four tasters thought this was advanced. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 91
#3 [2009 Fevre Chablis Preuses]
Light yellow gold color; very light green apple and lime aromas; on the palate this is thin with a little green apple but not much other discernable character on the palate My score in retrospect is probably generous. This got one vote for best in flight. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 90
#4 [2009 Raveneau Chablis Valmur]
Medium gold color; light green apple and some very faint anise aromas; very light bodied wine with mostly minerals and glyceryl elements; the finish is very light but minerally and fairly long (best feature). This got five votes for best in flight and our Somm. Paul Sherman had it in his top 5 for the night. Group Rank: Tied for 17th, 1 points (0/0/0/0/1) 91
The Chablis Wines from Flight One (after the reveal at the end)
#5 [2009 Dauvissat Chablis Clos]
Medium gold color; Lychee fruit and faintly oaky aromas – but as this sat the aromas started to get more like apricot; this has some odd, sour apple juice flavors; there is notable acidity, but the acidity reminds me more of “end acidity” when the wine is oxidizing rather than natural malic or lactic acid. This is definitely advanced. That is also the group consensus. Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 87 Advanced
#6 [2009 Faiveley Chablis Clos]
Medium gold color; light green apple aromas; modestly rich green apple flavors and seemed to be more like a Cote de Beaune wine than a Chablis to me; not all that much to be excited about in the finish though. After some air there were some pineapple notes in the aromas on the second pass. Hard to see this as Chablis and I’m almost suspicious of what’s in the bottle. Three votes for best in flight. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 89?
#7 [2009 Fevre Chablis Clos]
This between medium and full gold color – definitely the darkest of the first flight; forward apple cider aromas with slightly oaky/toasty note – definitely advanced; advanced red apple fruit flavors. This was definitely advanced and the group all agreed. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 86 Advanced
#8 [2009 Raveneau Chablis Clos]
Medium gold color; aromas of oyster shell and light lime – finally a Chablis aroma set; on the palate, this had richer fruit than the other wines in the flight, but it was still in a lighter and softer style. Some fairly light minerality and a short finish. While the aromas were definitely Chablis, the palate wasn’t and this wine didn’t seem to have anywhere left to go. Five votes for best in flight. Group Rank: Tied for 17th, 1 points (0/0/0/0/1) 90?
Flight Two – Meursault 1ers
Risotto Ai Frutti Di Mare
#9 [2009 Roulot Meursault Charmes]
Medium gold color; overly sweet lemon/lime aromas – I immediately said “7-Up” with agreement from several in the room; on the palate, it had similar, overly sweet, almost syrupy lemon-lime flavors, but it had very good acidity and a decent finish. This wine strongly reminded me of what I didn’t like when I first tasted the 2009 vintage on release. [NB Retasting this after the reveal, it was impossible to identify this wine as either Roulot or Meursault Charmes] Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 91
#10 [2009 Henri Boillot Meursault Charmes]
Medium gold color; white flowers and pear aromas; lightly sweet citrus fruit on the palate but with some grilled nut background character; this reminds me more of a Meursault than #9; but this one is a bit harsh and almost phenolic on the finish. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 90
#11 [2009 Colin-Morey Meursault Charmes]
Medikum plus gold color; light white flowers and some lemon – lime fruit aromas; very bright, medium bodied and charming lemon citrus and light pain grille flavors; a very long subtle fruit finish with a minor degree of acidity in the finish. Real Meursault with just a hint of upside. Four votes for best in flight. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 93+
#12 [Andre Jobard Meursault Charmes]
Between medium gold and full gold color; aromas of cheerios with sweetness (an aroma Ron Movich has traditionally flagged as outright oxidiation); on the palate, the wine is very fat, buttery, and has a sweet caramel flavor. This is exceedingly advanced and the group unanimously concurs. In hindsight my score seems too generous. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 89 Advanced
The Meursault 1er Flight
#13 [2009 Latour-Giraud Meursault Genevrieres]
Very light gold color; aromas of green fruit (like Midiori liquer) and oysters; on the palate, intense, bright citrus flavors with excellent acidity and a good dollop of minerality; this also had a very long minerals and citrus finish that just kept improviing as the night went on. A genuinely impressive Meursault. One vote for best in flight. Group Rank: Tied for 15th, 3 points (0/0/0/1/1) 94
#14 [2009 Latour-Giraud Meursault Genevrieres Cuvee des Pierre]
Light gold color; bright lemon citrus aromas with a hint of grilled nuts; very bright lemon-lime flavors with lots of minerality and noticeable acidity; some powerful citrus fruit and abundant minerality on the finish – excellent; this has a bit more fat on the finish than #13. Five votes for wine of the flight. My number four wine of the night. Group Rank: Fifth , 13 points (1/0/1/2/1) 94+
#15 [2009 Roulot Meursault Porusots]
Light gold color; aromas of lemon citrus and hints of green midori liquer; very bright wine with good acidity, moderate intensity lemony fruit and intensely minerally mid-palate; nice components but there seem to be mismatches in intensity levels here; fairly long sweet finish. This got two votes for favorite of the flight, but five people thought it was advanced. On my second pass through it definitely seemed to have lost something. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 93|92
Flight Three: Meursault Perrieres (and one Pretender)
Pan Roasted Napa Quail Stuffed With Wild Mushrooms On Soft Polenta
#16 [2009 Lafon Meursault Charmes]
Between light and medium yellow gold color; light lemon citrus and minerals aromas; not much fruit here, but some intense minerality on the mid-palate and finsih; this is classic but dry; nice minerality on the finish. Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92
#17 [2009 Roulot Meursault Perrieres]
Between light and medium gold color; fresh peach and hazelnut aromas; some lemon citrus, with stony, ground rock mid-palate and great acidity; a very long, mostly mineral and light lemon finish. I love this wine for the stoniness and mineral intensity, though some could find it too austere in the fruit department. Group Rank: Fourteenth , 6 points (1/0/0//1) 94
#18 [2009 H. Boillot Meursault Perrieres]
Between light and medium gold color; again peach and hazelnut aromas; unlike #17, this has some fat and richness on the mid-palate, the biggest wine of the flight; a nice minerally finish too. One vote for best in flight. Group Rank: Tied for 12th, 8 points (0/1/1/0/1) 94
#19 [2009 Bouchard Meursault Perrieres DIAM]
Light yellow gold color; light green apple aromas; clean and bright citrusy flavors; very good acidity here; a very long minerals and fruit finish. There is some upside here. Four votes for best in flight. My No. 6 ranked wine of the night. Group Rank: Tenth, 10 points (1/1/0/0/1) 94+
The Meursault Perrieres Flight – my personal favorite flight. Every MP here was excellent!
#20 [2009 Coiin-Morey Meursault Perrieres]
Light plus gold color; very subtle white flowers and lemon pastry aromas; on the palate this had some more dense lemon fruit character and minerality; decent acidity; very long minerals and citrus finish. Impressive with some upside. Three votes for best in flight. My No. 3 ranked wine of the night. Group Rank: Tied for sixth, 12 points (0/1/2/1/0) 94+
#21 [2009 Drouhin Meursault Perrieres]
Between light and medium gold color; light green apple aromas that don’t really seem open or developed yet; on the palate this was backward, with very good acidity and had intense mineral-saline character over some light citrus fruit. This one needs time to open, but seems very impressive. Four votes for best in flight. My No. 2 ranked wine of the night. Group Rank: Tied for sixth, 12 points (0/1/1/2/1) 94+ [N.B… Another bottle purchased from the same source opened a month earlier was not nearly as impressive. I rated it 90 and thought it was the least impressive bottle of the twelve different 2009s I opened in the six months before this dinner.]
#22 [2009 Lafon Meursault Perrieres
Between light and medium gold color; very light white flowers aromas; this wine has very bright acidity, light citrus and intense minerality; a long minerally finish too. Two votes for best in flight. This was my No. 5 ranked wine of the night. Group Rank: Tied for 8th, 11 points (0/0/2/2/1) 94+
Flight Four – Corton Charlemagne
Sicilian Boneless Rabbit With Prosciutto, Caciocavallo, A Hint Of Chocolate
#23 [2009 Faiveley Corton Charlemagne]
Light plus gold color; aromas of pears and white flowers; nice medium density pear flavors, nice depth; it didn’t seem to follow through on the finish though. Group Rank: Tied for 8th, 11 points (0/2/0/1/1) 92
#24 [2009 Javillier Corton Charlemagne DIAM]
Just short of medium gold color; this had pear and green apple aromas; also similar flavors; this has an elegant and long finish which distinguishes it from #23. Group Rank: Tied for 15th, 3 points (0/0/1/0/0) 93
#25 [2009 Montille Corton Charlemagne DIAM]
Between light and medium gold color; white flowers and pear aromas; this has some greater richness and depth on the mid-palate with good acidity; minerality isn’t obvious here; fruity finish with some acidity. Group Rank: Tied for 20th (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 93
#26 [2009 Vougeraie Corton Charlemagne]
Between light and medium gold color; sweet white flowers aromas; intense pear flavors; this has more power and depth and more minerality than the preceding wines in this flight; it also has brilliant acidity, and very nice minerality; a very long minerally finish… Two votes for best in flight. Group Rank: 11th, 9 points (1/0/0/2/0) 94
The Corton Charlemagne flight – the group’s favorite flight
#27 [2009 Henri Boillot Corton Charlemagne]
Between light and medium gold color; light white flowers and sweet citrus aromas; less depth of fruit than the others, and more citrus here, good acidity, but I found this somewhat dry, almost phenolic on the back of the palate; nice minerals on the finish. May round out with more time. Two votes for best in flight. Group Rank: Third, 22 points (2/2/1/0/1) 93+
#28 [2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne]
Between light and medium gold color; aromas of white flowers and lemon blossoms; on the palate this had some sweet citrus and a long dry minerally finish. Needs more time. This got five votes for best in flight. Group Rank: Fourth, 15 points (/3/0/0/0/0) 93+
#29 [2009 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne DIAM]
Light yellow gold color, the lightest of the flight; light white flowers and green apple aromas; this had relatively simple green apple flavors but an incredibly long structured minerally finish. At first I thought this wine had good development potential, but by the end of the night, I just wasn’t sure. Group Rank: Twelfth, 9 points (0/1/1/0/1) 93
#30 [Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne]
Just short of medium gold color; light white flowers and green apple aromas; the most complex mix of fruit flavors of the flight – lemon, lime and green apple, with very nice depth and length; a very pretty wine though not as much minerality as some of the others. I liked this even a little more on my second pass. Five votes for best in flight. Group Rank: Second, 30 points (3/2/2/0/1) 94
#31 [Colin-Morey Corton Charlemagne]
Light gold color; very light white flowers aromas with some green apple undertones; very bright green apple flavors which are intense and snappy; this wine is extremely long on the palate and has amazingly good minerality on the finish. A wow wine. Three votes for best in flight (including mine). My number one wine of the night. Group Rank: First, 34 points (2/3/2/3/0) 95
Dessert Course
Cassatina di Ricotta with Pistachio Gelato – this tasted as great as it looked
1976 Schloss Eltz Auslese
Deep brown color; some burnt sugar and apricot aromas; from a personal perspective I had a real problem getting past the strong burned toast and earthy character on this wine that made the sweetness unreachable for me. Not my cup of tea, but I’ve never been a fan of the 1976 German vintage. NR
Premox statistics:
Corked: 0 of 29 0.0%
Advanced: 3 of 31 9.7%
Oxidized 0 of 31 0.0%
Advanced or oxidized 3 of 31 9.7%
DIAM bottles (4) – none were advanced or oxidized
Some general comments –
This was the fourth consecutive dinner where a Colin-Morey wine finished either the number one or number two ranked wine by the group (and all of the voting has been totally blind.) BDM Corton made the top five for the first time ever. Vougeraie made a very impressive first time appearance.
Except for the Chablis, the wines from 2009 far exceeded my initial expectations. When the Cote de Beaune wines were released, I thought most of them were excessively sweet (I frequently used the descriptor of “7-Up”). As a result, I cellared very few 2009s. But the Cote de Beaune wines we tasted, as well as the dozen other bottles of 2009 I’ve opened in the past six months, for the most part, far exceeded my initial expectation. The level of improvement was even more profound than what we experienced with the 2006 vintage.
The bad news for 2009 is that, in my judgment, 2009 is the least impressive vintage of Chablis that I’ve ever tasted – far worse than the 2007s or the 2005s. The Chablis were extremely thin and mostly lacking in Chablis character. The three best wines of the flight, all from Raveneau, were very light bodied wines with some minerality but very little else to commend them. In my opinion, it’s a vintage of Chablis to avoid.
But in contrast to the disappointing Chablis, the flight of Meursault Perrieres was, when considered as a whole, the most consistent flight of Meursault Perrieres, from top to bottom, that we’ve ever had. Excluding the Lafon Charmes, (which I usually include with the MPs because of those vines’ immediate proximity to Perrieres and the fact that the Lafon Charmes usually tastes more like MP than Charmes), the wines were uniformly very impressive. After writing my notes and provisionally scoring the wines I was astonished to realize that I’d rated every MP at 94 points and it was very hard to pick a favorite in this flight. While the group overall preferred the Corton flight, I had four of my top six wines coming from the Meursault Perrieres flight. I also thought that several of the wines had additional development potential, which I would never have expected based on what I tasted on release.
The Corton flight, while it had a greater range of variation, was also excellent. The wines were bigger bodied and richer than the MPs, as you would expect. They were surprisingly classic in style compared to how sweet and 7-Up like many of the wines tasted like at the time of release.
As one of the panel said, the real measure of the vintage each year is always whether there are wines you tasted that you would consider buying more of. On the 2009s, given that the pricing on some of the top 2009 Meursault Perrieres and Corton Charlemagnes have not moved much since release, the answer for me was a definite yes on the top-rated MPs and Cortons and the two Latour-Giraud Meursault Genevrirees.
An ultra-wide angle group shot taken by Andy Gavin
My thanks to Andy Gavin for all of the great photos he took of the dinner and the wines.