After serving a Dönhoff Tonschiefer 2013 and a Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Halbtrocken 2012 with asian food earlier this year, I’ve decided I’d like to learn a bit more about German Riesling. I have nearly zero experience with German Rieslings, but was astonished at how the fruit flavors of the wines–the S-O in particular–managed to be both transparent and persistent in the glass. Didn’t really notice much petrol, etc, but each was really outstanding. I thought these wines fit squarely in my white wine wheelhouse (Chablis, Sancerre, Assyrtiko, Moschofilero, assorted Italian whites) while also offering something completely different.
With all the good things I’ve heard about the 2015 vintage in Germany, I’d like to try to put together a case or so of bottles of $20-$40 dry-ish Riesling that I can crack open now to get a sense of what dry German Riesling is “all about.” (Can I open 2015’s and “get” the potential for Riesling?) I’d like to get a sense of stylistic and terroir distinctions between regions, if possible, so I can have a better sense of what I’m looking at when I pick up a bottle. I live in Chicago, and have easy access to stores like Binny’s. All recommendations and experiences (i.e., where did you start?) are much appreciated.
Also in Chicago. Also have great interest in this. German’s are lost on me out of complete lack of exposure but am more than willing to lay up a few cases if the experts here say “stock up” on this vintage. I simply have no clue what to look for at all…
Sounds like we have similar tastes in white wines . I am curious to see what is recommended. I’ll start with Wagner-Stempel Vom Porphyl and Schafer Frohlic Vulkangestein. Both Trocken and delicious.
I don’t know what Binny’s is carrying, but if you want dry-ish, focus on estate Rieslings, Trocken, Halbtrocken and Feinherb bottlings.
The Donnhoff Tonscheifer is a good choice, as is their Estate Riesling ($22ish). That Selbach-Oster you had is one of my favorite value bottlings. For a few dollars more, try to find one of their Ur-Alte Reben Feinherb wines. They are a big step up in class.
There are lots of great options from all over the place:
Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Kabinett
Schafer-Frohlich “Medium Dry” (I presume they still do this wine)
Leitz Einz Zwei Dry
Kruger-Rumpf Grosses Gewachs (multiple vineyards)
Spreitzer Winkeler Jesuitengarten Alte Reben halbtrocken
Crush in NYC has all of these available: Talk to Jess
2015 Lauer Senior off dry perfection
2015 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kab Should always try a prum
2015 Zilikin Saarberger Rausch Kab Saar equals searing and crisp even in kabinett form
2015 Lauer Stirin just a little less dry than the senior. Feinherb.
2015 Weiser Kunstler GAispfad Kabinett Trocken Terrific and fun to drink and ponder
Please try some 2014s as well as I think it is a stellar vintage.
2014 J haart Goldtropfchen kab this is damn near perfect Kabinett
2014 J Haart Ohligsberg Grand Cru. Very young but a great window into trocken
2014 Weiser Kunstler ellergrub KAB amazing every year and will be a nice counterpoint to the Gaispfad trocken
2012 Stein 1900 Uli Stein can make knee bending trockens… this is one of them
ok I am going to get over a case really quick. To this list you need to add a cabinet and a trocken each from Willi Schaefer, Donnhoff, and Schafer-Frohlich, Schloss Leiser and trocken from schonleber.
For the record, I started with 2008 Senior from Peter Lauer… been hooked ever since. Good info at Vom Boden, Lars Carberg, and tons of great regular drinkers on WB. David Schildkenect and John Gilman are two pros with great palates and write ups. I don’t take Vinous so I haven’t seen David’s writing lately…
Good luck and please tell us what you end up buying and liking.
David I trust your palate tons, I guess I have been lucky for 2014. I have stuck with the young turks if you will: Haart, Lauer, W-K. Keller’s little Kabinett H is sublime. I think Julian Heart hit it out of the park and around the world in 2014. I still have some I am waiting on, or have received, but haven’t opened yet. I need to get round to them. To this point, I have bought smart…
How does J Haart’s Goldtropfchen kab compare with the Schubertslay? Not that I could source the Schubertslay even if I wanted, so I guess it’s more of an academic question
There are great dry rieslings out there that have been suggested by others, but you would really be missing something profound if you reneged on the Spatlese and Auslese. There is some sweetness, but also balanced acidity and beautiful flavors. And if you really want to pair with Asian food, the spiciest Thai, Vietnamese, Indian, Laotian etc pair beautifully with Spat/Auslesen. A pairing not to be missed.
You can find older vintages of many of these wines if you are looking for petrol - that’s not something that shows up in the young wines you’re mentioning. The 1971 SA Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese I had this weekend was full of it, but a similar 2001 hadn’t yet picked it up…
Also, if you’re dead set on dry, you’d best pick up some Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile, and maybe a few choice examples of Alzinger, Pichler, Dirler-Cade. You can get wonderful things from Weygandt in DC - ask for Warren and he will suggest some wonderful Austrians to try.
I think they are both stellar. I just have a sweet spot for Goldtropfchen. I haven’t drunk the Schubertslay for 2015 as they were in short supply. I worked my tail off to skeech 7 bottles from multiple sources, but haven’t had a good opportunity to pop one yet. The Goldtropfchen was much easier to source. If you get a chance try the 14 and 15 Goldtropfchen.
It is, unfortunately, a little bit difficult to get wines from NY retailers to IL.
I agree with David; 2014 is a write-off.
As far as how to pick up some rieslings, I strongly recommend stopping by Plum Market and speaking to Anthony or Terry. They have a very good selection in-store, and they can help you source others as well. Binny’s does pathetically in the German department.
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. Different situation for us wine buyers up here though!