Four of us got together for a cost share lunch. The restaurant kindly let us have the private room. Since it was a small group, I provided wine service. I “seasoned" the stems, ie pour a half ounce to an ounce to coat the bowls. The result was very positive. It also gave me the opportunity to smell the stems which was fascinating. The noses were consistently more vibrant, purer and more detailed.
Four of us have been drinking together for over ten years so it was male bonding as much as a wine dinner. We had such a great time conversing, our lunch lasted until 6:30. Bacchus was smiling on us as all the wines showed well.
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2008 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Pop and pour. Seasoned the stems with a half ounce to an ounce. Having had two exceptional bottles of the 08 Perrieres recently, it is fascinating to try the Corton Charlemagne. Incredibly precise and focused nose displaying lemon curd, fresh key lime, saline, wild flowers, ginger, honey and spicy spices. I don’t get much Coche flint or sesame/toasted oak. Exceptional concentration, tightly coiled, lemon oil and ginger driven palate impression, bright acidity, incredibly amount of mineral, perfect precision and a long clean mineral driven finish. It is quite dense yet perfectly pure and precise. It feels a bit closed compared to the Perrieres which showed a generous amount of yellow and white fruit. This is even more precise if that is possible. The precision and incredible density is similar to the 08 Dauvssat Clos but even richer and purer. Incredible showing. Decanting is not a bad idea. Also may be need another five to ten years to reach the peak. (99 pts.) -
1990 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Pop and pour, the nose is very muted in the bottle which is worrisome. However as I season the stems, it smells ethereal, purest delicate red and black berry, essence of raspberry, only a hint of sous bois and light caramel in the background. It reminds me of the 91 Chambertin that I had during the 2015 Villa D’Este wine symposium. Pour to the widest part of Zalto Burgundy, very ripe red fruit, a hint of cherry, stewed tomato, caramel, a hint of Chinese medicine, cinnamon, sous bois, flat cola, black truffle and earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered ripe red fruit, silky and fluid, good mineral expression and a long sweet finish. Surprisingly the nose is the best with only an ounce pour, reducing the expression of ripeness and accentuating the purity. It is at the first stage of peak but will last for a few more decades due to the excellent fruit concentration. Excellent showing and really enjoyable. (98 pts.) -
1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Sourced from a European cellar, never moved since release. Pop and pour. Seasoned stems with a half ounce to an ounce. Fully mature nose with mostly tertiary notes with strong soy/hoisin, cherry compote, Chinese medicine, sweet spices, licorice, Tieguanyin tea, sous bois and earth. Fully integrated incredibly sweet palate, silky and polished, a hint of soy, beautiful balance and harmony and a very long lingering finish. This also shows the best with an ounce or less, showing very little soy which makes the nose purer and more detailed. (97 pts.) -
1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
Pop and pour. Seasoned stems with a half ounce to an ounce. Perhaps the most youthful example that I had, similar to the bottle drank in June of 2014. Powerful youthful nose displaying intense blackberry and a hint of raspberry, licorice, dark spices and incense. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of decadent blackberry, very energetic and precise and an incredible long finish. About two hours later, it finally starts to reveal its exotic nature, displaying Vosne spices, oolong tea, candied rose pedal, roasted coffee bean and liquid smoke. The palate also becomes more precise and detailed. It remains incredibly youthful. If cellared properly, this consistently flirts with perfection. (98 pts.) -
1991 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Pop and pour. Seasoned stems with a half ounce to an ounce. The nose is very Leroy, concentrated decadent red and black fruit, caramel, cedar, a strong note of Vosne spice and a hint of sous bois. Excellent concentration, nicely layered fruit, decadent black fruit and exotic spice driven palate impression, nice balance and a long Vosne spice and cedar driven finish. This is a really youthful showing, somewhat similar to the 90 version but a bit more structured and not as exotic. It clear shows the Leroy’s hedonistic magic! (95 pts.)
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