Do Wines From Warm Vintages Age?

There seems to be a belief that wines from warmer vintages that produce riper wines do not have the capacity to age. As I postulated in another thread, I think that it depends on what one means by aging. My experience has led me to the anecdotal conclusion that while these wines may not develop the level of complexity one would expect from cooler vintages, they do often become more balanced and less aggressive by diminished overt fruit and perceivable alcohol. I also believe that it is a misconception that these wines will necessarily go south in a relatively short period of time. What do you think? Thanks.

I could not disagree with you more. I am not sure where this belief comes from that hot vintages do not age, or that hot vintages do not develop complexities, when compared to cooler vintages. In fact, for me, my experience shows me that is the exact opposite, at least when it comes to Bordeaux, and probably the Rhone Valley as well as to what takes place.

In Bordeaux, 1928, 1929, 1945, 1947, 1953, 1955, 1959, 1961, 1982, 1986, 1989, 1990 are all products of hot, dry conditions and those vintages have all aged extremely well, and show more complexity than cooler vintages.

I think one needs to define hot and/or warm and look at different regions, grape varieties etc.

I am beginning to have my doubts about 2005 in Burgundy. 1971 was a vintage greatly heralded at the time, but did it really develop as promised there??

Perhaps by current standards and by California standards, the vintages Jeff cites are not so warm.

Here in California bad Cabernet vintages are oftentimes excellent for Pinot and vice versa…

But Jeff, in an age of average EtOH in the 14% range in Bordeaux, whereas the average ABV in those great vintages of yesteryear was closer to 12%, doesnt that beg another question? Namely, in a hot and overripe vintage, where, to get phenolic maturity, you have to pick at high brix and get a high alcohol wine, are these inherently unbalanced wines ever going to “come around” and seem balanced?

The only things that don’t age well around here are broad generalizations.

Has anyone had a 2003 Donnhoff lately?

Noah… Sorry, but I do not see these wines as unbalanced. Nor, do I find wines in hot vintages overripe. There are some wines I do not care for, but overall, that is not how I see it. YMMV.

For a matter of reference, the current hot years in Bordeaux include: 1995, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2009, 2010 and 2015

I drink and taste a fair amount of these wines, and while it is just my taste, I do not find the wines from these years, unbalanced, or overripe, with the exception of 2003, which produced a limited number of extraordinary wines, and several wines that are already at peak, and wines that have probably slipped past their peak tasting period. It is not the high alcohol that is the culprit, it is the low acidity and the extreme heat and drought. In parts of some vineyards, I know that there were days that hit 128 degrees for a few days! Now, that is hot.

Depends . . .

I have not the slightest doubt than they can age - wines are not only aging on their acidity, but also on their fruit concentration and quality, on extract and tannin - and on the balance between everything …

(and I have enough experience with it)

My experience is that if a wine is out of balance at its inception, it does not later become balanced. However, as a wine ages, the acids can be less dominant, and if there was sufficient fruit present at the outset to balance out against those acids, the wine can become brilliant. But I think it a misnomer to say that such a wine when young was out of balance.

All wine ages. Just depends if you like it or not.

Whoa! In Bordeaux? I knew it was hot, but not that hot!

Of the list that Jeff gave, the only one that I’d heard of as being a “hot” vintage was 2003. Maybe we are just defining things differently.

Come on now,128 degrees? Farenheit? Maybe on the surface of a parking lot at one of the chateau. But for air temp to be that hot don’t you have to be in something like Death Valley?

I agree it is not the absolute heat during the year, but a complex matrix of all factors in a “balanced” wine, whatever that means. I do think that without heat and the maturity of the grape there is not going to be any chance of a wonderful aged wine. Better to err on the side of full ripeness than not get the mean greens out of the fruit.

Oh, absolutely! One of the Chateaus must have had bedbugs, and prolonged extreme heat is one of the very few ways to kill them now that DDT is banned. Mother Nature was just helping the owners out.

128˚ - I call shenanigans too Dennis.

Mel,
What leads you to this conclusion??

TTT

Dennis… Do you think I make this stuff up? No, it was not over all of Bordeaux, but in parts of vineyards in the Northern Medoc, it reached 129 F, 54 C at its peak in the afternoon for a few days in August! All the workers just sat in the cellars. Have you looked at how many people died in heat related deaths in August 2003? It is over 10,000!

Noah… You can read summaries on all those vintages, including peak temperatures and decide for yourself. After reading the stats, I’d be curious if you still felt that 2003 was the only hot vintage in Bordeaux. Bordeaux Vintage Guide 1900 to Today, Vintage Character, Buying Tips

Jeff, looking at 2010, 2009, and 2005, I can’t find any info in your reports on peak temperatures. Just generalizations about whether the summers were “hot and dry” or not. Is there more specific information anywhere on your site?