The Commanderie de Bordeaux Puerto Rico chapter met yesterday to review and enjoy several vintages of Chateau Gruaud Larose. The wines were presented in three flights.
Flight #1 1928, 1953, 1959, 1975, 1979
All the wines in this flight had great color and sheen. They looked alive and it was to be one of those nights in which the wine gods were with us. The three elder wines were in perfect condition. The 1928 was a regal claret with balance, structure, and perfect aromatics. The 1953 still had an echo of sweet fruit with nice acids. The 1959 was more muted but it only suffered in comparison with the 28 and 53. On its own it was also good. The 1975 was dry and a bit austere while the 1979 was another classic claret with Gruaud Larose style. It was interesting that even though there was a 51 year delta between eldest and younger of the wines in this flight there was an uncanny consistency in flavors, aromas, and style. In order of preference the group rated 1953, 1928, 1959, 1979, 1975.
Flight #2 1978, 1981, 1982, 1985, 1986
These wines all reflected their particular vintage. The conversation here drifted to whether the trio of 82,85, and 86 would develop to the level of the 28 and 53 or if the more modern winemaking techniques would develop different wines. The surprise of this flight was the 1981 which was really gorgeous and hedonistic. The 78 was satisfying but uninspiring while the 82,85, and 86 performed as expected. In order of preference the group rated 1986, 1985, 1981, 1982, 1978. Some of us thought that the 82 had a touch of cork taint.
Flight #3 1988, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996
Again these wines reflected their particular vintages. The 1990 was a joy to drink and extremely elegant. The 1989 was somehow tainted and had an overbearing aroma of peanut butter (anyone can chime on what this can be?). The 1995 Gruaud Larose has to be one of the best wines of the vintage while the 1996 show tons of promise.
Overall this tasting reinforced the incredible quality and value for money offered by this estate. Through the 68 vintages of the wines presented the Chateau presented a unified style and a clear expression of their terroir.
Cheers and thanks for reading.
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