La Tour d'Argent and Roumier

Yeah. I know. LTdA is so old school, food has seen better days, etc. I say a No! In what has become a casual world, it’s great every once in a while to get all dressed up, put on a tie, and go out for an old school dinner. You arrive, greeted outside, escorted into the lounge area. Can have a drink there (and start looking at the wine list) or be escorted down the passageway (walls lined with framed letters written by luminaries from the past, thanking the restaurant for the experience), to a manned elevator. A quick trip upstairs and the doors open to the beautiful room. We had a table for 2, on the window (a must!), closest to the ‘curve’, so the best view of the seine and Notre Dame. Just fantastic. Waiters everywhere in coat and tie. Lots of attention. We had the ‘classic’ for dinner, the duck 2 ways. Was it great? Nah. But good and it’s a classic. And the room and view more than make up for what is a good but not great (but old school) dish. Now the wine list. As always, wow. Go back in time and order something at least 20 if not 50 years old. The ‘new’ stuff is generally at market price. But the old stuff is way, way under auction. We had the 1990 Roumier ‘Bonnes Mares’, a wine I’ve had there a few times before. The price doesn’t change as the auction market marches ever higher. E490 all in here, vs like $1,800 at auction. A really good wine, what you want in your aged Burgundy. Fruit shows both a sweetness and a hint of mushroom. Good persistence. Just a really good aged Burg. And so many others on the list at such reasonable (relative to current auction) prices. Might go again for lunch today!

Agree 100%. When we went 5 years back it was out of this world on all fronts. Sounds like we had the same table too! That wine list is epic, next time I want to try and get a tour of the cellar.

I thought the duck was amazing personally. When do you get to have your meal prepared using a “duck press”?

This is on my to-do list for my next Paris trip.

Thanks for the heads up. I remember a distinct cinnamon note in the 1990 from the last bottle several years ago.

I love this place and find it to be all that I want and desire from a high end restaurant. For me, it has been a consistent consummate experience with stellar views actually from all tables with some a bit better. The service is professional and dedicated to serving, the ambience is ornately impeccable, the food has been presented and prepared in exquisite manner and as you state, the wine list is full of treasures at very relatively reasonable prices. The wine list Ive had is rolled out on a cart since its an upper body workout to carry it to and fro. Its an experience all unto itself. Im a big fan of La Tour d`Argent.

In the FWIW category, the book, “La Tour d`Argent” by former owner, Claude Terrail, is a must read for anyone who goes or is interested in this iconic restaurant. It is not only a great read, but a detailed history of some of the highlight recipes and people who have frequented it since the beginning.

Also, it should be noted, their classy boutique shop down on and across the street is also a must visit with fantastic gifts, logo related items, wine and gourmet food items and more.

And then there is the sister restaurant, La Rotisserie [formerly Rotisserie du Beaujolais], is fabulous and can hold its own with most of the above average restaurants in the City. Its also located across the street on the Quai.

same. Just couldn’t get my wife to agree to eat dinner here. I was compelled by the wine list, but the thought of having to dress up in basically work clothes to go eat dinner is a non starter for both of us.

Hey Charlie, I hear you re the attire so there is a solution. Do lunch. Although I wear a jacket, I`ve seen shorts, not recommended, jeans and other garb scattered among the really dressed up regulars, locals and tourists.
Daytime is not as romantic, but the views are even more magnificent because they extend beyond what can be seen at night although there is a lot of magic with the lights of the City.

IMHO, it`s worth any inconvenience to just surrender and go for it any least one time.

I dunno. Haven’t been there, but any good view of Notre Dame from behind (or the side) at night is really amazing.

Edit: thinking about this, I remember walking up the quai just across from Notre Dame one evening. Forgetting where I was, I looked up and it caught my eye from across the river. Breathtaking!

True and it also includes the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre and more in the background.

What a blast from my past! Went there after high school on a “study abroad” trip (aka having a blast touring Europe while your parents are thinking you are studying “world culture” :wink:. Our sponsors insisted we go there for dinner one night. We didn’t really want to go, but they had been good sports, so we got dressed up and went. I remember NOT having the duck (I detest duck for many reasons), but remember the incredible views and the wine. The white wine I had that night still haunts me to this day (such a beautiful floral bouquet, but wasn’t sweet, and could kick myself forever for not paying attention to what it was). This was back in the July of 1976…fond memories.

I screwed the pooch last month and went to L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in St. Germaine and was very disappointed. His London restaurant was 10x better. The service at the Paris restaurant was horrendous by Michelin star standards. Service in Paris is almost an oxymoron. Fortunately our culinary journey was redeemed by an outstanding festivus at les 110 de Taillevent. Best Risotto on the planet earth! Their wine parings are spot on.

Ya, Robuchon in Paris is a total joke. My parents went to La Tour 30~ years ago and it sounds like I should check it out. Normally we go to Le Climats, a burgundy focused restaurant but unfortunately most of the wines are too young.

Ooops…wrong edit…If anyone has a guess as to what floral white I might have been drinking there back in 1976, please PM me…I would love to have a ballpark to look into.

Thanks for the report, Peter; I’ve never been, but I’d pay even to have just a cup of coffee in one of those window seats overlooking Notre Dame and the Seine.

I’ve seen some incredible wine lists over the years, but nothing even comes close to the one at The Tower of Money (or Silver). I was at Bern’s in February, but there’s no comparison if you’re looking for Burgundies or Rhones. I don’t think I’ve ever even gotten to the Bordeaux pages at La Tour. If I went with just one other person who wasn’t as into looking at the wine list as I am, I’d feel guilty, because that person would be largely ignored for at least 45 minutes. It’s a candy store for French wine lovers, there’s nothing like it.

C’mon Fu, roll in there with the Armani.

I get it that some people find “dress up” clothes uncomfortable, but I truly don’t appreciate a great formal meal as much if I don’t dress up and make the effort. It enhances my experience to know I look great in this beautiful place with this beautiful food, and that I am treating the occasion as one of consequence which I meet with respect and preparation. I hate it when people roll into someplace like this in shorts or sneakers and hoodies. It’s part of the package for me, when going to a Grande Dame restaurant, to take special care with my appearance, especially since it won’t so much be about how amazing the food is, but largely about setting and atmosphere and overall feeling. Again, I know lots of people (let’s be honest - mostly men) get all upset about having to meet a dress code and wear a jacket or (God forbid!) a tie, but I don’t think an experience like this should be treated the same as a Sunday watching the game in your living room. Very much my opinion…

The wine list at La Tour d’Argent is phenomenal, and I make a point of visiting, not every Paris trip, but certainly every few trips.

Thank you, my sentiments exactly.

Sarah, how do you like the food there?

It is fine, some dishes are quite nice, classic and well executed. Not exciting or innovative, and honestly not so much my style, but it’s a good backdrop to the rest of the experience. I wouldn’t go if it were in my home city, probably, but every once in a while, I quite enjoy it - the old school romantic setting and trappings have a place in my heart. I go with the right expectations, I think, and have not so far been disappointed.