After just spending some time touring the Loire, I thought I might pass on some observations as well as a tip regarding a producer that I haven’t read much about around here. First the tip, the producer is Jacky Blot (no affiliation and not someone I’ve met) of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups and I was really taken by his dry (sec) Chenin Blancs from Montlouis. My understanding is that Jacky has been a pioneer in the region for decades. His wines are fairly similar to those of Francois Chidaine (another advocate of Montlouis with some fans on this board). As a bit of background, Montlouis is across the Loire River from Vouvray and the two areas are quite different. Montlouis is more north-facing (to Vouvray’s south) and the soils are more shallow and rocky with a many variations on a theme of flint (silex) and limestone. In contrast, much of Vouvray features deep limestone-derived clay soils. The shallower soils and increased rockiness of Montlouis gives the wines more finesse (compared to Vouvray’s richness) and increased minerality that I really enjoy (and in fact prefer to Vouvray). The wines are a ridiculous value as well with most available in the $20-30 range. The 2014 vintage is terrific for whites in this region and I highly recommend any of Jacky’s 2014 sec (dry) Chenins.
A couple of observations (rife with personal opinion):
-Much like Alsace, I think the Loire (and possibly the Chenin Blanc grape itself) suffers in the market due to consumer confusion over sweet wines also produced in the area
-No matter where I go in the wine world, I find all of the greatest white wines are grown on rocky soils.
-Many Loire producers think that Schist (Anjou) or Silex/Flint (Montlouis) soils produce better wines than limestone
Love Jacky Blot’s wines. If you like sparkling Chenin, his non vintage Triple Zero is impossible to beat for the price. The sommelier at Arpege is another fan (and also hails from Montlouis).
Brad,
Good point. I had intended to mention that, much like Chidaine, there is a minor oak element (I believe it is ~10% new for most cuvees) in Jacky’s wines. I did not feel that it obscured the terroir or featured prominently but of course YMMV.
Kevin, thanks for the notes and impressions. I don’t own Jacky Blot but will look for it and try some if it makes it into So Cal on offer. I am one of the Chidaine fans you mention, owning those wines, especially the Sec cuvees, as I don’t care for the sweetness levels past Sec.
In contrast, much of Vouvray features deep limestone-derived clay soils.
FWIW, you can’t derive clay soils from ‘pure’ limestone. Almost definitionally, clay soils can only be derived from a marl (or at least, a marl-y limestone), since pure calcium carbonate won’t weather to clay. Of course, the same is true for chert/flint bedrock - they can develop clay soils because of clay impurities in the underlying rock. But pure chert (pure silica) and pure limestone (calcium carbonate) won’t weather to clay.
Which is a fancy way of saying that distinguishing the soils based on the underlying bedrock is probably not quite accurate. I would bet that slope and exposure probably have a lot more to do with the maturity of the soil than the underlying rocks.
Kevin, thanks for the introduction. Can you say anything about the individual bottlings? In particular, which are commonly sec? Or any in particularly that caught your attention?
Fwiw, I’ve never found any kind of an oak presence in Chidaines wines, as I do in Blot’s.
I agree with you, for the most part, that the oak doesn’t obscure the terroir in the Taille aux Loups wines, but it does leave an unwelcome vanilla/pineapple imprint, imo.
Alan,
Dry Chenins are a primary focus. There are at least 5 different Montlouis secs:
Dix Arpents
Remus
Remus plus
Clos Michet
Clos Mosny
I highly recommend the Remus (one of the larger bottlings). I had a terrific 2013 and the 2014 is even better.
Meanwhile I think I found story on the oak. Apparently it varies from neutral to 33% new oak depending on the cuvee so that could explain the differing impressions.
Indeed. It’s frequently stated that demi-sec is the best expression of Chenin Blanc and I find that to be true, but that’s what makes horse races. Of course, some of what now passes as sec are at similar sugar levels as what demi-sec traditionally used to be.
Thanks Kevin. I’ve got a couple of Jacky’s '12s gathering dust – been meaning to open one and this is a good reminder. Tonight I just cracked open a '12 Sandlands Chenin and it is starting to hit its stride. Not quite the aromatics of a good Loire Chenin Blanc but more dry fruit on the palate. Tasty!
Alan - we should do a tasting some time and compare the Blot, Chidaine, Huet Chenins, etc. with some Chenin Blancs from California. As we usually do mid-peninsula Kevin you’d be welcome to join us.
HiTime had some Blot a few years ago, but it may have been a Chinon. Don’t know if you remember, but someone brought a Taille aux Loups white to the second Suntacular at your place, and it was one of my favorite bottles of the day. Couldn’t find any local and sorta forgot about it. I’ll check with Scott at Envoyer to see if he can find any for us.