Madeira Question

Was reading an interesting article in the latest Wines&Spirits magazine (one of the few wine publications that actually has writers of some competence and articles I occasional learn something from) about the attempts in Madeira to revive the plantings of the Terrantez grape variety. Apparently, TintaNegraMole (as opposed to Verdelho/Malvasia/Sercial/Malmsey), a Grenache X Pinot, is the most widely planted grape on Maderia and accounts some 90% of the grape production there. That’s a new one on me.
Apparently, after the oidium/phylloxera outbreak in the late 1800’s, there was a lot of transition in plantings from the traditional Madeira varieties, with a lot of plantings of direct producers (American hybrids and Labrusca) going into the ground.
The article implies that these direct producers still play a sizeable role in the production of Madeira.
Anyone who knows Madeira have any idea how important these direct producers are in the production of Madeira?? I would think that the estufa process used in Madeira would obliterate any (less than fine) character these grapes would impart.
Tom

But Tom, didn’t you follow them from the very start?!

I would almost say that an equally important, if not MORE important, factor in the production of quality Madeira is the gradual shift from growing grapes on the North side of the island from the (historically) more prized South side of the island.

I recently reread the book “Oceans of Wine” by David Hancock. His history of the early American love of Madeira is a central theme in this comprehensive exploration of Madeira winemaking, commerce, and wine drinking culture.

As early as the 1760’s, small firms began sourcing wine from vineyards located on the less-esteemed North side of Madeira. The lighter-colored, less flavorful wines were subject to “improvements” in order to draw maximum $$ from their sales. The fine line between corrections and adulteration was a primary concern at the time.

The wine merchants were incredibly creative in fine-tuning their goods to match the expectations of American wine consumers - a remarkable parallel to the things I hear about modern winemaking/marketing.

Today, it is the commercial development of land that has pushed almost ALL of the Madeira vineyards to the North side. I don’t think many of the winemakers’ ancestors would believe such a monumental shift could be possible.

To answer the OP, I have read conflicting information on the topic of grape varieties approved for Madeira wines. I suppose it would be of benefit to purchase only from those who can honestly tell you what is in the bottle. If the label doesn’t assert enthusiastically the presence of Malvasia, Bual, Sercial, Verdelho, or Terrantez, you can almost guarantee that the wine includes TNM or Bastardo, or some other hybrids.

The fact that most Madeira winemakers include old barrel sprinklings of this and that to enrich the final bottling almost ensures that some lesser grapes are represented in all of the wines.

Yes. Tinta Negra Mole is the dominant grape for pretty much any Madeira that is just labeled that (vs varietally.) It can make some very good Madeira. We had a new release from Barbeito.

The other island of Porto Santo has a lot of plantings of non-vinifera including aestivalis. They were not good and I like hybrids/non-vinifera. The grapes were probably not the reason they weren’t good. Roy might post some pics or I will pull them from my back-up drive. The vines are done in this crazy ground-training just a foot above the soil.

Home winemakers/growers do have plenty of the post-phylloxera hyrbids. My surf camp instructor’s family grows Isabella which has higher levels of methanol and, I think, is not allowed many places. Not so good either, but may well have been far better when it was fresher.

Andrew, did you just say “methanol”?!?

Tom, I would like to say that, so long as you buy from a producer who can assert that the Madeira in question is made via Canteiro Method vs artificially heating the base wines, and the label lists one of the key Noble Grapes, you are bound to do no better!

Yep.

eta - Isabella is not used in any commercial production of Madeira (or table wines) and might be barred in the EU. I was making a broader point that Madeira is pretty wild (and amazing) There are some weird grapes on Porto Santo such as Cunnignham but I don’t think anything we tasted is available commercially outside the wineries themselves, if even then.

A.

Prior to Phylloxera, Verdelho was the predominate variety making up about 75% of plantings. Afterwards hybrids were widely planted and even made it into the fortified Madeira. Among vinifera varieties, Tinta Negra (formerly known as Tinta Negra Mole but the old name is now not authorized) now makes up about 75%. There are still some hybrids (known as direct producers since the cuttings are planted directly into the soil) but these are not authorized in Madeira. They are used for table wines for local consumption. The neighborly island of Porto Santo has some fortified wines made from the direct producers, but they are not legally sold as Madeira. Some are not so bad. Verdelho had been promoted to a recommended variety, along with the classic varieties of Sercial, Bual, Malvasia, Terrantez. Tinta Negra can now be used on labels as of last year. If a variety is on the label, it must make up a minimum of 75% of the volume. Terrantez was almost extinct some years ago, but a recent push has been made to revive it. Still minuscule amounts however. In 2013, there were 254 hectares of Tinta Negra on Madeira, 54 of Verdelho, 37 of Malvasia (of all types), 18 of Sercial, 14 of Boal, and 1.4 of Terrantez. Since then the Madeira Wine Company has planted some more Terrantez and more at the Faja dos Padres. Bastardo has also started making a comeback as well. The majority of Malvasia is the variety Malvasia Sao Jorge. The classic Malvasia Candida is planted in only a couple of places including the Faja dos Padres.