TNs--birthday celebrations at Actinolite, Toronto, incl 11 MI, 93 Ebenezer

BBer Jay Shampur and our friend Linda Sinozic were both celebrating birthdays. To help them along, Tran, myself and our friends Heather and Michael descended on one of the rising stars in the tasting menu scene here, Actinolite. Service and ambiance this time were splendid and so was the food—where I was somewhat interested but not truly engaged my first visit, I was excited and definitely engaged this time. I will leave Tran to provide more details on the food.

THE WINES

Domaine de Montbourgeau NV Cremant de Jura

Certainly an interesting way to start–we think it’s Chard and Savagnin for the grapes. nice and light with some sweet pea scents and apple, this doesn’t drink as a sophisticate, but it doesn’t have to—this shows dashes of sweetness around some green beans and yellow fruit, and is quite food friendly across a number of courses. it also has that hay and loam-like thing that I sometimes get with Savagnin. Again, while not mindbending, it was certainly enjoyable in its own right

Serveaux Fils Carte Noire NV Champagne

My conversion to Champagne continues. This is lovely both in the sniffer and on the tongue, with lots of speaking parts. Apple, lemon, salinity/brine and some pepper notes, there’s a fine conversation with the mousse and the crack-spark that I got from this wine. Holds itself quite erect and…proud…that’s a descriptor that comes to mind. It was good

2010 Chateau Montelana Chardonnay

We didn’t decant this, and we should have. While some creamed sweet corn and candy apple starts wafting up the glass, it is joined later in the evening by hazelnut and gingerbread notes, a lot going on. On the palate, this is long and a combination of lean and lush in parts. The best part is that all this begins to harmonize and come together the longer it sits, going from a bit sharp at the back and gangly through the taste to knit itself together. Whisky/peaty notes show up later too. I think in 3-4 years, this will be a real star.

2010 Vincent Girardin St. Aubin Muergers des Dents de Chien

Hits you right upside the nuzzie with matchstick and wood, but that definitely settles down. This is dynamite, guys. Great, great feel and a fine binned apple and pear accent to the nuts and mineral. This just keeps getting better and more authoritative as the night goes on, and punches way, way above its weight—as in Perrieres or even Corton Charlie level. And it’s certainly ready to drink. Wish I had more, WOTN though it was very, very close…

2011 Remelluri Bianco

…with this, which Heather brought for us to try. This is, I think, my first chance to try Sissek’s wine. From Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier and Viura–Heather thinks it’s about 15%, I hope it won’t be my last. It totally throws off the aromatics of a white hermitage—the beeswax and honey, white fruit, florals and nuances of 'shrooms and salt. My goodness–tongue jumps up and parties! Liquid silk and such a fine, focused presence. Some aromatic replays and sugared lemondrop candy as well for me, the texture of this wine is the sale closer. What was supremely interesting is that, unlike the other two for me, this held absolutely rock-steady in presentation throughout the whole night. Regardless, a remarkable wine and a very, very close #2

2001 Kistler Sonoma Coast Chard

Probably engendered the most conversation–of the whites. The bouquet isn’t at all oxidized, but it does smell faded to me, certainly the fruit is less. To taste, Tran is right, real caramel corn aspect and it does have taste, but energy and balance, I’m not nearly as convinced. It tastes, well, “strained”. Probably the best way I can describe it. yet it’s far from lifeless, as it went the best with some of the dishes. I do just think that it would have showed best 3 or 4 years ago.

2011 Maison Ilan Volnay Robardelles

My first of these Volnays, and the first try for everyone from Ray’s winery except Jay. Probably engendered the most conversation between Heather and me. Gave it a 1.5 hour decant and it started shy in the nuzzie and indeed somewhat hollow and thin in the mouth. And Heather, I think, nails something on the head that I haven’t seen described—that it throws off, for her, the scents of an “organic/natural” wine, with all the perils that can come with. The happy news is that this changes rapidly and for the better once it spends some time being swirled and sipped. Almost like a back-running horse, the fruit really gets unbuttoned with time, singing cherry and raspberry at the fore and a cinnamon note creeps into the aromatics late. Both Heather and I (the others haven’t yet had that much Volnay) agree that we’d not identify Volnay with this. But where I started with a light Savigny or Marsannay, I might finish with a light Pommard in sense. At any rate, there was certainly interest in how it developed and I will keep my other bottle a few more years to see what happens.

1993 Barossa Valley Estates Ebenezer Cabernet Sauvignon

What a wonderful surprise Michael brought us! And yes, boys and girls, this IS a Cab Sauv/Merlot/Cab Franc blend from Barossa! Lights up your sniffing life with blackcurrant, whisky and baked chocolate scents. And this is, 22 years after it was born, in a super place. Complete and utterly resolved, it’s sublime with black fruit, very smallest touches of molasses and meats and smooth but firm. Interestingly, for Michael, this was still on the tannic side for his own tastes. I do think, after discussion, that this will attenuate in 5 years, but it is sublime right now and #3 tonight.

2001 Kracher #6 NV TBA

How fine of Tran to share this with us. This is the Welschriesling/Chard blend. Dee-lish aromas of what I’d described as lightly smoked or caramelized apricot and peach. This is a bit richer than some Krachers I’ve had, but still full of flavour–toffee, pear ginger, apricot and orange. A very nice way to finish the night.

I think Jay and Linda have to have a birthday every 3 months. But that’s just me, I guess

Kwa heri,

Mike

Mr. Grammer fails to mention that it was also a belated birthday for himself and myself as well, making it a four-member TWEC ™ Belated Birthdays Bash.

Domaine de Montbourgeau NV Cremant de Jura – Bright and lemony, this was a refreshing cremant with crisp acidity and lively green apple and lemon flavors but was very light in body for a sparkler. Fruit-forward and refreshing but also nowhere near as complex or rich as the champagne that followed. Undoubtedly high value and quality, nevertheless.

Serveaux Fils Carte Noire NV Champagne – Now this is more my style! 50% each Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, this was rich and complex with huge toasty lees and anextremely rich body. The lees at times overwhelmed the fruit but very good overall and the fruit came out more as it sat in the glass. I stopped going back to the cremant and finished this off as the evening went on.

Chateau Montelena 2010 Chardonnay – A little fresher than the recent 2008 I had, this was another great MOntelena Chardonnay that let the fruit speak with fresh sweet green apple and light butter flavors. Smoothest texture and mouthfeel of all the Chardonnays at the table. Very interestingly, when paired with the scallop and crab, the Montelena actually became sweeter and fruitier. Very close to a baked apple, in fact. Tradeoff was less acidity than the other Chards.

Vincent Gerardin 2010 Saint-Aubin 1re Cru – Much more of a classic Burgundy Chardonnay, Heather summed it up perfectly: the Montelena was an expression of the wine, this was an expression of the winemaking. Indeed, this was quite concentrated in flavor with much more oak and lees present as well as intense fruit and acidity. It actually had a slight touch of bitterness on the finish. Nowhere near as fruit-forward as the Montelena above. However, I think it is nowhere near WOTN despite what crazy man posted above. Not even close.

Remelluri 2011 Rioja Blanco – #2 WOTN? See what I mean about being crazy? Michael is of course insane, this ridiculously good white Rioja from Spain was Heather’s contribution and is actually more of a Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc as it’s made with Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier, Viura and Garnacha Blanca (aka Grenache Blanc) and is tied for WOTN. This vintage apparently also has Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the blend. Golden in the glass, creamy and full of melon and vanilla flavors with a honeydew nose. Absolute white WOTN for me and went with everything. $75 CDN according to Heather and worth every freakin’ penny. Puts some equivalent priced CdP Blancs I’ve had to shame.

Kistler 2001 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay – This wine was all gunpowder and flint. Do not drink near an open flame or candle, it’ll go off! No fruit to speak of at all at first. As it evolved in the glass, however, the flint subsided and super concentrated green apple and unripe pineapple started to come out which surprised me. Fantastic match with the seafood dishes, whose texture and salinity tamed the flintiness and brought out even more fruit. While I prefer the Montelena from a pure drinking standpoint, this was by far the better food matching wine.

Maison Ilan 2011 Les Robardelles Volnay – Note: this is all repeated verbatim in the Laura’s House charity thread. This wine caused a bit of controversy at the table as unexpectedly I enjoyed it the most and the other far more experienced palates at the table seemed a tad disappointed. I believe this is the first of Ray Walker’s vintages. Bright ruby purple in the glass, it has a vegetal nose that gives way to perfectly balanced but subtle cherry, vanilla and spice flavors with a nice seam of adequate but not overbearing acidity. No Cali fruit bomb, Mr. Wright summed it up perfectly by saying there are wines that come to you, and there are wines that you have to go to. This was one you had to go to. I think the others were expecting some kind of Nirvana given Mr. Walker’s fairy tale story of becoming a winemaker in France.

Judging solely on the wine itself, this was a very decent red Burgundy. I think the negative reviews of the wine I’m seeing on the Internet are far, far too harsh to the point of actually making me suspicious about them. I freely admit Burgundy inexperience and would be happy to concede this is not as good as I believe it to be but only once someone treats me to an equivalent priced Volnay that is much better and shows me a serious quality difference. I’m gathering by the general disappointment at the table and on the Net beyond that people have in fact had better from others and Mr. Walker himself.

Barossa Valley Estate 1993 Ebenezer – Essentially a Meritage/Bordeaux style wine done in Australia, Net research shows this has been changed to 100% Shiraz in modern vintages. Truly a shame, as this treat from Mr. Wright was the red WOTN for me. A smooth and delicate red that was heavy purple in the glass, great nose of ripe Bing cherries and plums, and full of rich red fruit (plums, Bing cherries, raspberries) flavor in the glass. Tannins are completely receded but they definitely left a touch of sweetness to the wines. Spectacular match with the beef dish. Fabulous stuff and a bit of Aussie wine history given that they don’t make it like this anymore.

Kracher 2001 #6 Grand Cuveé TBA – This Welchriesling and Chardonnay blend – my contribution, natch – was literal and figurative gold in the glass. Dark orange gold in color (bad lighting on my pic, it is not brown in color), beautiful aromas of glycerin and orange blossom honey give way to honey, citrus and glycerin flavors. Almost candied orange and lemon going down, but that description really doesn’t do the wine any justice. At one point, Mike G simply put aside his dessert, cupped his glass with both hands and just sipped and enjoyed the wine. That really said it all for me. As perfect a dessert wine as you’ll ever have and another testament to the genius of the late Alois Kracher. Would’ve taken WOTN by itself but for the greatness of the Ebenezer and the Remelluri. Fantastic wine.

Nine wines total with 3 WOTN candidates tying for the evening’s WOTN. When a Montelena, Kistler and Volnay – all excellent wines – don’t even qualify to compete for the WOTN, you know you’re having a great night of wine drinking. They were made only better by the amazing food presented to us this night. Food porn postings to come later tonight!

Tran—tu es loco, amigo. Fou. The St. Aubin ruled!

Tran misheard me on the MI—it is, of course, Ray’s third vintage, but his first for the Robardelles. I wasn’t at all expecting nirvana—in fact, I was curious to open this because of many of the TNs I’ve seen, to look to calibrate.

I did enjoy the Kracher, for sure. But next to the 01 D’Yquem? or the recently-consumed 01 LTB? Those were better…

Regardless, enjoyed the evening’s vivacious discussion and great to have your counterpoint and thorough thoughts on the wines.

Salud,

Mike

Guys – Happy Birthday (belatedly)!

Best,
Angelo

2011 is the first vintage of MI Volnay Robardelles, but 2009 was the first MI vintage overall. In our horizontal tasting last year, a number of people found it somewhat un-Volnay-like.

Food porn posting was delayed due to spending US Thanksgiving mini-tour to visit Humberto Dorta in Pennsylvania. Here’s what we had:

The food was excellent as always with a couple of new items done especially for us to try. Chef Justin did stop by and chat with us about his passion and committment to sustainability first in the food chain.

At one point, he also checked up on me after my umpteenth trip to the washroom and I had to tell the table that I wasn’t inebriated, I just had low Asian genetic tolerance and my kidneys and liver were thus going into overdrive to rid my body of the alcohol as they always do on nights like this. Sorry, I am still a lightweight. Yet, I will actually become seriously concerned on the day that I don’t have to go to the washroom repeatedly, which might mean the liver and kidneys are actually failing.

VEGETABLE “SNACKS” – This vegetarian amouse-bouche was composed of a trio of upscale vegetarian bites. Crisp reindeer moss dressed with juniper oil; roasted carrot basted with blackberry juice; and a fermented cabbage chip topped with powdered mushroom “snow.”

BREAD LOAF CASSEROLE – The famous Actinolite bread served in its own cast-iron casserole. For winter, it has been changed to a heartier grain loaf made with the same grains as a Saison-style craft beer and handmade cultured butter. Sadly for one Mr. Nick Christie, none for him.

CELERIAC PANNA COTTA – A savory panna cotta made from cream and celeriac topped with shredded fresh and roasted celeriac and fresh foraged herbs. Delicious with the Montelena and the Remelluri.

OYSTER/DAIKON – A pair of fresh Canadian oysters topped with fresh white Daikon radish slices and a milk and cream crumble and brussel sprouts. Great combination. This was great with the Kistler, bring out much more of the fruit in that wine.

SHITAKE/RUTABEGA IN KELP BROTH – Local Ontario Shitake mushrooms, fermented onions, and rutabega were served in fresh kelp broth. Delicious vegetarian dish that went well the Chards at the table, cutting down a lot of their flintiness. Also helped bring out fruit in the Volnay.

SCALLOP/TURNIP – Fresh diced Nova Scotia scallop, braised kohlrabi turnip, and barley sit in a pool of beef fat and are topped with a kohlraba leaf chip.

CRAB/SUNCHOKE – Sweet Maritime crabmeat is dressed lightly and tossed with Jerusalem artichoke chips. A Canadian cheddar puree and carrot dots finish the dish. The crab was succulent and sweet, I could’ve eaten a bowl of this.

POTATO/CHEESE --A fresh local potato was perfectly braised and served with a house made fresh cheese and foraged thyme and then served in a whey butter sauce made from the cheesemaking whey.

BEEF/GARLIC: A beef short rib is slow-roasted and finished with a chocolate garlic molé sauce served with braised broccoli and kale on the side. Sinfully rich, I would’ve loved to have the beef served medium.

PEAR/BIRCH – An Ontario pear is poached in birch syrup and topped with a chocolate sorbet and candied birch leaves.

MIGNARDISE – The evening finished off with a housemade sponge toffee coated with chocolate and topped with candied moss.

Coincidentally, I drank a bottle of 2011 MI Robardelles last night. Very short finish, and not interesting in the least. I drank the bottle (by myself) over the course of several hours, so it had plenty of time to unwind if it was ever going to. Glad you guys found some interesting things in your bottle, they were lacking in mine. I bought 6 of each of the MI 2011 wines, and so far it was the worst $3,600 I’ve ever spent on wine.

Thanks for all the pics and extras, Tran, and Chuck and Craig, appreciate you both weighing in. I’ll hope, Chuck, that my bottles of Mazoyeres and Aux Charmes, in particular, have good performances—I have 3 of each of those, along with a remaining Robardelles and a bottle of Chaffots.

Angelo, great to hear from you. How go things in Boston? Any chance of a visit from you in the next little while? some people here are pining away for some older Rhone —or perhaps a blind Gaja

cheers,

Mike