Although it doesn’t come as a surprise anymore, it is still remarkably gratifying to have so many fine people gather to see me and my friends Dave and Andrea for another terrific dinner filled with good food, great wines and better camaraderie. My deep thanks to Loren and Jane for organizing and for all for coming out, especially Berto Dorta who made a special trip from his place in Pennsylvania to join us.
THE WINES
2012 Kreuth Chardonnay
From Alto Adige, this starts us off with sweet spiced apple and some tropical fruit. In the mouth, this is followed through but not much verve or interest for me, I’m afraid. It is candidly the rare Italian white that sparks that interest for me
1997 Terreno Chianti Riserva
Lightish aromatic notes of soy and crabapples. To taste, apple skin and a certain smokiness now. Attenuated, but sort of a faded elegance here. Probably best about 3 years ago, but still has something nice to say
2009 Guidalberto Tenuta San Guido
I like this! Strawberry, licks of sweeter rhubarb to sniff. Dans la bouche, still tight, but plenty of stuff, anise, cherry, touches of cloves. Good.
2004 Isole e Olena Cepparello
Loren really enjoyed this and I found it quite intriguing, with a sine smoky, dark berry and sweet currant bouquet, also what seemed like roasted mushrooms. Fruit shows too. Palate is very sparkly, zappy currant and sweet raspberry but also some nice herbs. Plenty of length here, while I like the multifaceted showing, I would also like to see a tad more harmony across the whole of the wine. But it may—and should—get there.
2005 Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore
Berto decanted this for 4 hours. And I’m grateful he did. This is love-ly. Only slight touches of raisins around cocoa-ed red fruit and leather. Beguiling. And on the tongue, rico suave, boy. It flows so very smoothly and silkily, and it only gets better with more time in the glass. In stark contrast to the Isole, this is wonderfully harmonious. Won’t get out of my head, and not for some time. WOTN
2010 Voliero Brunello di Montalcino
Smoky and cherry and interestingly, some pine nuts. Very vibrant and tangy…and tasty! Lots of plum and raspberry in a very nice combo, and leather and crabapple too. A lot going on, and Dave is right, this also develops a bit and opens up with time in the glass. Bottom line, full of promise and I think I’ll grab another bottle on the way back to town. #4 tonight
1996 Lazzarito Barolo
Still shy, a lot of swirling teases out some tar, blackberry and tea. Good, but it still lashes at you with spiky cherry, woodsy and herbs on the cheeks. Plenty of backbone, but another 7-8 years will do it some good.
2000 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia
I was chatting with a couple of the other about how the 2000s, some of them have fulfilled their promise and some have failed of their promise. I think this one is sort of in between. Berto and I remark that it’s so much more expressive than the Lazzarito. Sweet strawberry scents mix with roses, it’s very aromatic. Has body and carry and shows quite nicely with replays and a touch of licorice, but also has a definable ceiling. Should hold its line for 10 years but don’t see improvement coming.
1965 Minuto Barolo Riserva Speciale
And special this was, as Mike and Lori brought this for us. Huge thanks! And people, it’s just beautiful, in a way I can’t describe with precision. Ah, now I can. It’s filled with soul That extends to the palate, soulful extraordinaire, with baking spice-filled dried currant and cherry and a fine pepper note at the back. A definable pleasure. #2
2004 La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino
Chocolatey, and also coffee notes in the nuzzie. In the mouth, pretty and lilting sweet palate, lush cherry pie and mixed in with sandalwood. It does lack that extra “something” to make it special, but a rather nice drink and, I’d say, fully mature.
1959 Cantine Antonio Ferrarri Calliate Solaria Jonica
Loren does a search and tells us this is essentially a late harvest Primitivo that they had decided not to do anything with, forgot about it, then discovered it 6 years ago or so and decided to bottle. We’re glad they did. Like mincemeat and plum pie mix on the bouquet. Still smooth to taste, reminds me a tiny bit of a very light ruby port, but it’s certainly a wine. Remains lively and hasn’t lost that vitality at all. A treat to try. Andrea and Dave both liked this a lot.
2001 Prunotto Barolo Bussia
Hmm, this is nice too. Delicious aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry, tar and coffee cake. Very good structure here, the 01 structure with traces of sweetness around still-sharp black fruit and perhaps some nut skin. Good but does need more time, IMHO.
2004 Dal Forno Vigna Seta Amarone
A dessert from Berto, nip of motor oil but only the entry to a really splendid dried cherry tart showing. Taste is fine, fine stuff. It has a second gear as it stays in your mouth. #3
2006 Prunotto Barbaresco
To sniff, rhubarb, raspberry, currant ant herbs. Has good presence and while it has some steel and sternness to it, it also is approachable. I think what I like best is the purity of the raspberry fruit here. Not sure I love, love it. But admirable certainly, and I know this had many fans.
2007 Il Carbonaione Podere Poggio Scaletti
My last one for the night gives me nips of cardamom, swirling around red plum and berries. Still lots of growing to do, some meats and some tart black fruit, but it does have bones and a good future ahead.
Again, huge thanks to the gang for once again making me feel so welcome here.
Slainte,
Mike