Interesting article written by David Darlington for Wines and Spirits on changes in RRV pinot over the past 15 years or so. Insight offered by Paul Sloan of Small Vines, Bob Cabral, Tom Rochioli, Dan Goldfield, Merry Edwards, and others.
One of my favorite quotes is from Merry Edwards and it’s sure to ruffle some feathers:
The fashion norm is shifting now; people are listening to Raj Parr (the In Pursuit of Balance ringleader), and French marketing has convinced people that you should pay a lot of money for wines that are light and watery. I’m on the opposite side—we’re not in France, we’re in California.
In any event, to me, a well written article with lots of different points of view. Can’t wait to hear what Adam Lee and others have to say . . .
Thanks for posting the link Larry. Definitely a good, interesting read covering many of the dangers of generalizing about RRV pinot noir. I found the quote by Dan Goldfield to really resonate with me.
Still, Goldfield said, “On weighted average, I think winemakers are making what they want to make. If I and three of my colleagues make wine from the same vineyard, there will be more difference between those wines than there is between wines from three different vineyards by the same winemaker.”
I’m not sure whether he was insinuating a producer’s influence starts as far back as tending the vines or if simply provided with the same fruit, but the winemaker’s style does tend to outweigh the vineyard in most CA pinot IMHO.
Hopefully this thread won’t devolve into a discussion about ABV, comparisons with Burgundy, OR, AFWE…
To me, that statement certainly rings true. I can take some of the vineyards I work with and one might be ‘challenged’ to find as many similarities as you find differences in finished wines based on ‘winemaker preferences’ - and that would be the case with any variety from any vineyard.
Goldfield’s vineyard vs. winemaker theory is true based on my experiences.
The Merry Edwards quote doesn’t strike me as controversial. She should make the wines she wants to.
I don’t follow Raj Parr and he hardly appears to be the ringleader of more than his own wine ventures (Somm, winery involvement, etc.) and yes, the IPOB group he helped create and runs with Jasmine Hirsch. I suspect that I like many wines that he does. I’ve never once looked for or used his advice with respect to buying or tasting a wine. He advocates the Pinot styles he prefers and Merry advocates hers.
Serious question on Merry Edwards. If she is so successful with her two receptionists, Napa styles winery, making wine for herself and her “followers”, why on Earth is she worried about Rajat Parr & IPOB’s influence?
Also what is “French Marketing” & where is all the nefarious material leading people to pay more for watery wine?
Perhaps he’s a windbag…but he makes pretty good wine. His Combe Trousseau (Stolpman) is mighty fine expression of Trousseau.
And his Sandhi wines are very well-crafted.
But what would I know…my palate was obliterated by LateHrvst Zins back in the '70’s!!!
I thought David’s article was well-written (they always are) but didn’t cover much new ground. Not one of David’s better efforts.
Good overview. As stated at the start of the article “they were beautiful” sure rings true. Not many producers even touch on what I loved about RRV PNs back in the '90s that made them so special. I manage to get my grubby big hands on enough good ones to keep me happy, but it’s still sort of sad.
Harsh, Alan. I just opened her 2010 Estate, which is quite average for RRV at 14.2 alcohol. The wine is beautifully perfumed and delicious; I simply cannot see how it could be seen as overripe or heavy in the context of New World Pinot. If you haven’t had any ME wines recently I suggest a visit.
I have enjoyed reading the article’s in Wine & Spirits magazine for years; I just received about 8 back issues from eBay today (2002-2003). They do a better job than Wine Speculator or Wine Enthusiast,IMHO. I actually find articles that can teach me something new, rather than rehash the same material over and over.
Nick, I haven’t had one in a couple of years, for sure, but all my notes on vintages from 2005 and later have the words “ripe” and “sweet” in them. And I did visit there within the last 5 years, though I can’t seem to find notes or a post on that - maybe it’s over on ebob. I was not impressed at the time. The Sauvignon Blanc, to me, is grossly overripe and lacks any authentic SB character. I know she’s supposedly a pioneer, and revered in many circles, but I’m not a subscriber.
And I find the statement darned controversial. Yes, she should make what she wants. That’s not by a long shot where her remarks end. She reminds me of someb… can’t think … uh…
Many points that are very topical to winemakers/growers today. I remember a discussion I had with Bob Cabral about Dijon vs. Heritage when we planted our vineyard and then another after he planted Litton, not to mention the manner they planted which would prevent anything but field blend/complexity of ripeness. I was involved in the same discussion last week at a Gap grower expo. Merry Edwards has a more than pertinent point about harvesting. Dijon and heat spikes when you don’t have your crew lined up can ruin the best laid plans. It seems with the labor shortage and the huge harvests over the past 3 years you really have to have things lined up and with Dijon and mother nature it can be a damn frustrating task. I also agree with Dan Goldman about the winemakers thumbprint. It is Pinot after all. Unfortunately there is no history I can look back on and see the sine waves for growing with climate change like you can with winemaking and say barrel use.
I don’t think her comment was insulting, she was just giving her opinion. I’m no fan of Raj Parr either but I wouldn’t turn down a glass of his wine if offered. Merry Edwards is a bigger Pinot but I haven’t had one in 3-4 years.
“pay a lot of money for wines that are light and watery” sounded like quite an insult to me when I read it. Followed by “I’m on the opposite side—we’re not in France, we’re in California” makes it pretty unmistakable. She’s calling out anyone striving for a less rich, ripe, opulent style, which she (somewhat ignorantly, IMO) associates with France.
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