Great read. I love their wines, and always thought that there was a parallel with Burgundy whites, but I lack the tasting experience to come across knowledgeable about it. Those prices, though… are they correct???
The single vineyard Chards are generally about $38-$44, but to me represent a pretty solid value, comparing favorably with $60-$70 White Burgs (Meursault, or even Puligny, Chassagne, etc.), with MORE consistency than most white Burg, but also certainly not an apples to apples comparison (to the extent that the Kumeaus, as much as they have in common with the Burgs, are still a slightly more fruit-forward, New World style as compared to the Burgs).
I find them to be a very useful wine to the extent they are “in between” classic White Burg and a New World Chardonnay, with enough minerality and tart citrus fruit to be enjoyable by me, while having enough fruit for those who generally prefer New World styled wines…And the similarity of these wines to a really nice Meursault is pretty striking.
John, fair comment, I agree and think about Kumeu similarly.
Drew, the UK pricing will be right. Farrs are the UK importer.
That would have been fun! I wonder how often the Kumeu got picked out blind.
While Kumeu River makes reasonable wines I for some reason have never been ‘that’ attracted by them.
May be now I should become a a Kumeu River ‘label drinker’ and then I might find them more attractive.
I will give them a another try again.
Which are the best vintages for this winery in the past decade?
Have they got much better in the past few years compared with the earlier decade?
I have no idea Sanjay, having not bothered with them much in the last decade. You’ll see my last TN was for a 2000…
each to their own Rauno. but I’ve always enjoyed their wines across all price points, and whenever I’ve shown them at tastings, almost always they show very well. I would say 06, 10 and 12 are the vintages to look for, although not tried many 07’s from which the Hunting Hill did so well in this tasting. I find the Mate’s and Hunting Hill the most elegant and consistent, while the Estate and Coddington show more upfront fruit and oak influence, but can both be very good in certain vintages. The entry level Village always punches a bit above its very modest price too. (about 19 here in Oz).
They all show best with 4-10 years of age, depending on price level and vintage. the 10’s and 12’s will show much better in 3-5+ years from now.
Cheers
Tim
Hi Sanjay,
I’m not surprised by the results of this blind tasting. Kumeu River is at the top level of NZ Chardonnay, one of our best producers.
Also, in a blind tasting like this they have an accessibility or immediacy that stands out against white Burgs of similar age. Generally, Rauno and I recently had a similar experience with NZ wines ‘winning’ most flights blind against similarly aged white Burgs (with a bunch of Burgophile palates in the room) in an International Chardonnay tasting. It doesn’t necessarily make them better wines …
I agree with most of what Tim says.
In terms of vintages, I haven’t tasted everything, but, generally, I’ve liked 2008, 2010 and 2012, in that order. However, KRs are generally pretty consistent vintage-on-vintage.
Probably, it’s more important to work out which single vineyard style you like best …The lower level wines are good QPR but the real action is with the SVs: Coddington, Hunting Hill and Maté’s. That’s the pricing hierarchy (in ascending order) and what people often think is the quality hierarchy. However, often, like in 2008, I prefer the Coddington or, as in 2010, the Hunting Hill to the Maté’s.
You can see something of the character of each wine from the Burgundy communes they are grouped with ie Coddington (lush, often a little exotic or tropical fruit, Chassagne), Hunting Hill (more ethereal, lighter, Puligny) and Maté’s (heavier, denser, structured, Meursault).
Here’s some more background information:
And I think somebody needs to get Rauno some younger NZ wines … 
I don’t know whether KR Chardonnays have improved in recent years but, with increasing vine age and specialisation in the winery on Chardonnay in recent years, I would expect so …
I should clarify - my “not bothering with them” comment is more a reflection of my slothful nature and not intended as an indictment of their quality. Sure, there were oxidation problems in the 90s and I’m less a Coddington fan, but they certainly can deliver as only a small handful of NZ Chardonnay labels.
And I just finished a Cloudy Bay 2012 during the week Howard 
!
Rauno, thread drift I know, but how was the Cloudy Bay - I haven’t had one of those in years?
Cheers, Howard
The CB 2012 Chardonnay was good - I like their flavor profile which is less soft / fruit oriented than many. I think it’s always been a good wine. Now the Pelorus on the other hand… 
not as nice as I recalled from 10+ years ago or so. Got a mixed case through charity auction (4 P, 4 SB and 4C).
The prices are for a case, I assume.
It says in the article - prices per case, in bond
Apart from Kumeu River which would be your top five Chardonnay producers from NZ?
Sanjay - thought I would jump in before Rauno…
In no particular order
Neudorf
Bell Hill
Martinborough Vineyards
Sacred Hill - Riflemens
Church Road - TOM
Top 5 besides Kumeu River SVs is tough, but … (not in order):
Ata Rangi Craighall
Felton Road Block 2
Sacred Hill Riflemans
Neudorf Moutere
Bell Hill (newest to the list).
So no room for Martinborough Vineyards unfortunately … I hope I didn’t leave anyone off I shouldn’t have …
Don’t ask Rauno, he’s only just onto his early 2000s … ![[wow.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/7/7d450e9830889c8943b674446a21b7254cad657e.gif "wow"){kind=small}
Based on the dinner last month, I think it’s unlikely you would get a consensus - there were three NZ wines that various people preferred as “best” NZ wine of the evening, quite diverse likes and dislikes. About the only thing people will agree on is that Neudorf will always be on the list (and probably Bell Hill, but so few people have actually had to opine)
Kumeu River
Bell Hill (but only had one!)
Pyramid Valley
Neudorf Moutere
some daylight… then… all the others people have mentioned. (Not actually tried the Craighall though Howard, will try when in Martinborough in August).
Throw in Cloudy Bay and Villa Maria Ihumatao.
Other than these, (and I think it’s changing slowly), oak overuse or poor integration/quality of oak is my main issue with most lower tier NZ Chardies.
Cheers
Tim
Edit : sorry Sanjay I note you said ‘apart from Kumeu River’… ah well…
Tim, Ata Rangi does two Chardonnays, the Craighall and the Petrie.
The Craighall, that I typically prefer, is from older vines on a vineyard on the Martinborough Terraces, while the Petrie vineyard is near Masterton, so it’s officially a Wairarapa wine. Even in NZ terms these wines are only made in small quantities.
PM me if you want me to put you in touch with AR’s winemaker Helen Masters closer to your visit.
Cheers, Howard