Here's a quote:
Any winemakers want to comment? Comments from the peanut gallery are welcome too.In the best cooking, the hand of the chef is invisible, a guiding principle nowhere more central than in wine. Aromatic integration into a soulful single voice requires a well-formed structure of fine, stable tannins. Oak is like cosmetics – ideally invisible in its enhancements. Proper presentation of terroir requires great effort.
Critics who have never actually made wine can have no idea how much skill and attention goes into invisibility. The fallacy is to demonize manipulation instead of ineptitude.
EDIT: Clark pointed out to me that the link above doesn't even link to the article I intended to reference. Here's the much more recent article by Clark -- the article to which I intended to link -- that contains the quote above: http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2015/04/ ... winemaking
My apologies for the error and any resulting confusion.