Brief notes from dinner last night at Salil’s, with Mike Shor and Brian Marshall:
2013 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs
Closed in and perhaps even a bit reductive at first (it is, like all Gunderloch wines under screw cap), but an hour or so later it deepened, showed more spicy and earthy elements. It’s a unique wine, and represents the red soils quite well, but not for everyone.
1996 Chateau Certan de May
Showed quite a bit of volatility when I tried it. I heard it opened up later, but I never got back to it.
2005 Clos Rougeard(Foucault) Saumur-Champigny
Very closed in for the first 30 minutes or so. After that it was quite well integrated, with deep red fruit and a touch of spice. While it developed additional earthy/leafy layers later on, it never rose to the level that the hype would indicate for Rougeard. I like these wines (a 2010 Poyeaux a couple of weeks ago was much more interesting, but not life changing), but they do not thrill me, so at least no need to chase them.
2012 Henri Jouan Morey St. Denis
This was in fact thrilling. This was the closest thing to Truchot I’ve ever had. The aromatics were beguiling, swirling and endlessly fascinating. I really do not know how to properly describe them. I could use some list of fruits and earth tones, but that would not convey the whole experience. Normally one of the highest compliments I can pay to a wine is that I would be happy just to smell it. That applies here. That being said, drinking it was just as thrilling, as the delicacy aligned to the complexity caused a completely visceral response. This is great wine.
1997 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò
Another delicious wine, though it was somewhat unfairly overshadowed by the Jouan. I revisited a couple of times, and was very impressed by the sweet cherry fruit and the overall delicacy of the wine. It was quite easy to drink, tannins were well in check and I would not discourage anyone from trying it now.
1976 Chateau Cos d’Estournel
This only held up for about 45 minutes, but it was a very nice 45 minutes. The forest floor (dried leaves, mushrooms, etc.) elements were certainly at the fore, but there was still some deep, though fading fruit there for a little bit. I would open any bottles and drink soon, being prepared to focus on this wine, rather than putting it in a larger setting where the brief window may get missed.
2001 Meßmer Burrweiller Schloßgarten Riesling Eiswein
Clearly a botrytis influenced eiswein, and while that is not my choice, I cannot deny that this was mighty tasty. Orange peel, baking spices, honey, dried pineapple, etc. all came together in a slightly viscous, sweet, yet balanced wine. Very good, though except for the acidity more in the mode of BA than eiswein.