It had to happen ... Suckling rates a NZ pinot noir at 99 points ...

Brodie sent me this Premier Cru advertisement (checking the website I see that the wines have largely sold out).

I’m no fan of Suckling but some will take notice of these reviews, inevitably pushing up the interest and prices … These wines are only produced in tiny quantities.

The other thing that’s interesting is Suckling’s hierarchy is a little the opposite of mine. I rate the Kiwa, one of the most Burgundian of NZ wines from 30+ old vines, as the best. I think that the more New World Kupe, from younger vines, is fast catching it in recent vintages however I wouldn’t put it as far ahead as Suckling does.

This is from Premier Cru:

A Quartet of Stunning New Zealand Pinot Noirs from Escarpment

Situated at the southern tip of New Zealand’s Northern Island, the Martinborough GI (“Geographic Indication,” the rough Kiwi equivalent of a French appellation or a domestic AVA) is only an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Wellington but a world away in so many other respects. The terroir here seems ideally suited to pinot noir: a genuinely cool climate incorporating one of the country’s longest growing seasons is married to a landscape of dramatic cliffs and escarpments carved out by the Rumahanga River and boasting alluvial terraces with exposed rocky sub-soils. Australian Larry McKenna, writes The Wine Advocate’s Neal Martin, “is a legend in Martinborough, indeed throughout New Zealand, the man who steered Martinborough Vineyards to international acclaim” during his 13-year tenure there. Along with his wife and another couple, he struck out on his own in 1998 to establish The Escarpment Vineyard. From the outset, the focus was on maximizing site-expression of the winery’s four single vineyards, something at which McKenna succeeded as early as their debut vintage, Neal Martin having noted back then that “like Burgundy, there were tangible differences in character between [vineyard sites in] these intense, full-bodied, still primal wines.” As the scores below attest, these are some of the most amazing pinots to emerge from Martinborough, indeed from New Zealand as a whole. All wines are in stock, but quantities are limited and will sell through quickly.

New Zealand

2013 Escarpment Pinot Noir Kiwa 49.95
95 points Suckling: “A dark and brooding pinot that is reticent and introspective. Pleany of earth, mocha, dark chocolate, dark plums, slate, graphite, and black cherries. The finish runs out smooth, long, and even. Drink in 2019.”

2013 Escarpment Pinot Noir Kupe 59.99
99 points Suckling: “A striking wine thanks to the many complex facets to its personality. A profound pinot noir. A triumph not only for Escarpment and Larry McKenna, but for New Zealand pinot noir at large. Drink in 2015.”

2013 Escarpment Pinot Noir Pahi 49.95
97 points Suckling: “A darker expression in 2013, this has deep, spiced complexity, anise and other woody spices. The perfumed lift and hints of dark purple flowers lead to meaty nuances where there’s plenty of depth. As for the acidity, it’s wired and deep and adds turbo-like power to the finish. Drink in 2019.”

2013 Escarpment Pinot Noir Te Rehua 49.95
97 points Suckling: “The most brooding of the Escarpment pinot noirs. This has a dark, minerally nose with graphite and slate that builds into earth-crusted herbs, toasted nuts, adrk chocolate and orange peel. A classic rendition of pinot in the iron fist and velvet glove style. Drink in 2019.”

I like that the wine receiving 99 points has no useful information in the tasting note.

That is quite amusing. Goes “wow” over a wine and does not even offer a single descriptor for the wine itself. Who follows this clown?

I guess when it’s 99 points it doesn’t even matter.

I think that’s about right: When Suckling gives a wine 99 points, it doesn’t even matter.

Does anyone know if he drank it out of his 100 point Lalique Glass?

Let’s be fair. I have never tasted these wines and so far, none of the rest of you profess to have done so. I checked the CT scores for Escarpment pinot and they were limited, but pretty high. Tanzer seems to have not rated the ones from the last decade very highly. Has anyone actually tasted these.

Full disclosure: From what I have seen of Suckling, he seems like a putz.

here the 2011 with 19.5/20

2013 had 92 in WA,2011 93+

Good on you Jay…it’s way too easy to bash Suckling these days, to even put up half of a defense is worth a few points. I think Suckling would give you at least 95+ points on this.

Howard, curious to try these wines!

Hey, just for the record, I broke up with the Suckling way back in the '90s! He was one of the primary reasons I ended my WS subscription. But true, I have not tried this Pinot.

I don’t follow any critics, and very rarely drink NZ wines, but what I adore here is a 99 pt, 2013 “triumph for NZ” PN with the recommendation to drink the wine in 2015.

Don’t blame you Robert, we all (or 99% of us) know he’s a joke. Just fun to see someone take up for him a little.

Don’t get me wrong, I think the great reviews are much deserved. Escarpment produces some of NZ’s best pinot noirs and follows a Burgundian type terroir-based approach with these SV wines, which increases the interest. I’m pleased Larry and Huw are receiving this recognition and I know they’re pleased with the reviews.

As a buyer of the wines most years I’d be less pleased if critic hype starts to push the prices and supply out of my reach. Generally 2013 in NZ is a very good vintage and I would not be surprised to see Suckling and other critics start to push it …

Here’s some information and reviews from Andrew and me on the 2013 and 2012 Escarpments:

https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=25018&searchId=E7BCFDC9%23selected%253DW1847355_2_K387328257849d816e82d28c9aae43d5f&UISource=list

Was just browsing around wine retailers, and found (what I’m guessing is) the full Suckling review of the wine.

“A striking wine for the many complex facets to its personality, this is the zenith of the Escarpment pinot noir collection, a wine that gathers the personalities of its siblings and adds its own layer of class and complexity to the mix. Orange blossom, ripe dark cherries and fresh-tilled earth, deep-wound, woody spices, dried plum and fresh black cherry, with some beef stock and a hint of pepper - complex and regal. The palate is textured like deep velvet, profoundly flavored and woven together with deep-seated tannins, seamless and long, with every type of cherry, blueberries, red and dark plums layered in softer, fleshy sections, building in layered waves of tannin as it goes, the acidity creeping up to illuminate the finish. Profound pinot noir - this is a triumph for not only Escarpment and Larry McKenna, but also for New Zealand pinot noir in general.” (JS)

Oh no. I guess Larry should be pleased, and if it helps him double yield from the US that’s all good. What awful “tasting notes”, but perhaps we’re being unkind assuming that’s what they are supposed to be.
Good wines; much longer cellaring windows than the comments suggest, and certainly better than “turbo charged iron fist” would tend to make you think.

Well at least the 97 point wine had “hints of dark purple flowers”.

As we can see, Suckling can taste colors. Crocuses, asters, chrysanthemums, African violets, verbena, irises, lilacs, lavender, catmint and allium all smell exactly the same if they’re purple. If they’re a different color, I guess they smell different from the purple version.

FWIW, I haven’t had these wines. I’ve had 2 of them in the past but not this vintage. Nor would I try them, much less buy them, based on Suckling’s reviews. If Howard has indeed been tasting these over the years, I’d be much more inclined to give his comments some credibility rather than the comments of someone who pops over to a region, throws out a bucket of useless comments and scores, and leaves.

Sucklings scores are indeed lofty. I brought these wines into Sweden for my former employer, and in my opinion, Larry McKenna does belong to the NZ-elite when it comes to PN. As I’ve left, I haven’t tasted the '13 vintage yet, but I know that Larry personally was very happy with it already after harvest.

As I’ve followed Larry’s work closely since the 2003 vintage, I can testify that he has received numerous great reviews since the launch of his own label some 15 years ago. He’s named Mr. Pinot in NZ, and for sure he’s one major reason that PN these days is so strong and quality-oriented here.

I look forward to taste the 2013’s, and even though I assume my personal scores will be 3-5 points lower, compared to JS, I’m sure that I’ll adore them. Finally, about their longevity; they easily last 10+ years, regardless of vintage.

Drink in 2015

I don’t follow Suckling but is he implying this 99 point Pinot won’t age?

“turbo charged iron fist” is one of two (possibly wonderful) things.

1. A new kung fu movie starring Jet Li.
2. A Valentine’s day gag gift that my wife did not find as amusing as I did.

Seriously stupid… From this reportedly great vintage, I assume 15 years won’t be a problem.