TN: Burgundy 1ers over Christmas

  • 2010 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (12/24/2014)
    I love that a wine of this quality is widely available, without allocation. Similar thoughts to my previous notes this year. Served blind to friends with the balance of the bottle finished the next day. A rusty red colour, looking more evolved than the 2011 Fourrier beside it. A glorious bouquet, seemingly more evolved than the palate is actually. A complex, musky, savoury nose with aromas of spicy plums, warm earth, Porcini mushrooms, brown spices, rusty iron and dry Autumn leaves. I smelled a little brett and one friend noted a small green note but these elements, for me, just added to the aromatic complexity. My friends had this as clearly a quality Burgundy, not New World, but as Côte de Nuits, not Côte de Beaune. In the mouth, more youthful than on the nose. Excellent dry extract, structure and length. The flavours are savoury, earthy and red fruits, particularly plums and raspberries. Good bright acidity and focus and good, streamlined tannins. Perhaps beginning to shut down a little now. I need to stop drinking these and cellar for at least five years but it’s not easy! (93 pts.)
  • 2011 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (12/24/2014)
    Deep, dark colour. Excellent bouquet, classic NSG, of blackberries, dark cherries, a suggestion of crème de cassis, black spices and iron, with a hint of dark florals. On the palate, also dark and a bit brooding, quite primary and tannic, but they’re cultured, suave tannins. The wine has serious structure, a great acid profile and is beautifully balanced. Lovely texture and mouthfeel, flavours, again classic, top quality NSG, dark berries, tar, damp dark soil and iron. All class. The wine was relatively approachable but would of course benefit from 5+ years cellar time. Thanks Mark. (93 pts.)
  • 2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (12/24/2014)
    Colour fairly deep gold but not premoxed. A classic Chablis nose of lemon and grapefruit juice, chalk, oyster shell and salty sea spray. Also classic Chablis typicity on palate. The flavours are citric, oyster shell, blanched almonds, chalky and limestone, with real salinity on the long, dry finish. The wine has excellent, racy acidity, that provides great cut and focus. There is a beautiful balance between that freshness and acidity and the ripe, rich fruit here. Good architecture and fruit weight. There is the material here for many years’ cellaring. (92 pts.)
  • 2011 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/24/2014)
    Clean, bright cranberry juice colour. A gorgeous Fourrier Gevrey nose. High toned and pure aromas of red cherries, redcurrants, with a suggestion of cranberries, mixed spices, and underlying chalk, limestone and crushed granite. With time open, I also picked up a little Gevrey animale. The palate is also signature Fourrier: bright, pure, clean, energetic red berries, particularly raspberries, red cherries and a little cranberry. There is also some spice and a suggestion of that animale, perhaps bloody game meat. The first impression is of leaness but there is good fruit weight here. Beautifully integrated tannins. This bottle was drinking well but it’s infanticide of course. I’d say, hold for 7+ years. (92 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Hi Howard, Merry Xmas. Nice notes, you are definitely committing vinfanticide with the Fourrier and the Drouhin.

Cheers Brodie

Appreciated seeing these notes come across my CT screen earlier, very good stuff. Cheers, and Merry Christmas.

Hi Howard - thanks for posting, and thanks to Mark for giving me the remains of the Gouges to take home. Brodie is right - it was punishingly primary. The Drouhin CdM performed better on the day but the Gouges will be stunning in a decade.

Quite young stuff here though. [wow.gif]

As this is called 1er Crus over Christmas … I´ll chime in.

Meant for sirloin steak with roasted potatoes and root vegetables (self-made):

Pommard Pezzerolles 1989 - Billard-Gonnet.
Opened 5 h in advance, first taste slightly dusty and musty … but opened up beautifully in the bottle over the hours, decanted 1 min. before serving.
Mature ruby colour, slightly brown orange, but still saturated, mainly red berried nose with hints of earth, quite masculine with a certain backbone, very nice mature sweetness with good grip, still slight touch of rusticity, very traditional style, really long and standing up excellently against the (medium raw) sirloin … really perfect match - not really complex nose, but outstanding palate and finish despite the softer vintage.
91 points for the wine and the food flirtysmile
(and 95 points for the pleasure)

Never tasted anything from this producer before. Purchased at auction 2 y ago for about 30 EUR (all inclusive) - and it paid … still have another bottle.

PS: in a restaurant - without slow-ox - I would have had to send this bottle back due to the initial smell …

In defence to Brodie’s vinfanticide charge, I’d say it is often a good idea to get an early sighting of a red Burg in the first couple of years, before they shut down, to see where it may be going. I know that defence would not work for the Drouhin, because I’d be facing multiple charges. I’m confident however that no reasonable jury would convict, that wine is damn delicious right now!

More seriously, I do wonder if the Drouhin will shut down, or remain relatively open all of its life?

Andrew, that Gouges is definitely shutting down now, but it is a superb wine.

Gerhard, nice note, that sounds great value.

Gents, best of the Season to you, and to all WBers!

Cheers, Howard

Howard, did the Fourrier need a CO2 shake, or did you just pour and drink?

Hi David, as you might have read, I’m not really a CO2 shake guy. I didn’t get any appreciable CO2 on this Fourrier.