TN: 1979 Claret in NYC

Tuesday a 1979 Bordeaux dinner at La Mangeoire. Lovely night for a walk from Grand Central, arrived to find Suzanne with a white at ready. The 2005 R&V Dauvissat “Les Clos” Chablis GC was big, ripe, and mature, not any overt oxidization, but feeling pretty ready. B

The 2011 Tribut Cote de Lechet Chablis 1er was crisp, a bit herbal, rocky. I preferred to the Les Clos B+

Suzanne suggested a blend of the two, and the 2008 Dauvissat/Tribut Clos de Lechet was a sucess.

We split a several charcuterie plates (smoked magret, pate, mousse, a dry sausage), most had cassoulet but in honor of the weather I stuck with the chicken. The truffle fairy appeared and upgraded the fries.

On to the red wines. All of these notes are from memory, I’ve misplaced my notes, so possibly even less accurate than normal

1979 Ch. du Tertre -I’m not very TCA sensitive, maybe a 3 or 4 on scale of 10, and on opening this had thought it showed a classic 79 du Tertre nose (one of my favorites years from this estate), but at table it was clearly corked

1979 Ch. Giscours- mature, floral, berry fruit, some thought getting a bit tired, but I really liked. B+

1979 Ch. Margaux- pleasant old claret, but I thought a bit clunky next to the Palmer, and not really something you’d call a first. B-

1979 Ch. Palmer- nice showing, elegant, cigarbox, redder fruit. A-/B+

1979 Ch. Pichon Lalande- pretty, elegant, hightoned, good fruit, a complex truffly nose. A-

1979 Ch. Lynch Bages - roasted fruits, VA, clipped finish, not sure if the wine or cooked. C- for this bottle

1979 Ch. Pape Clement -corked!

1979 Ch. Haut Brion- midbodied, pretty, tobacco. B+

1979 Ch. L’Evangile- corked!

1979 Ch. Cheval Blanc- crisp acids, red fruit, spicy, as someone says “a Bordeaux for Burg fans” A-

1979 Ch. Ausone -Mark felt this was an off bottle, leathery, a bit drying. B/B-

My votes went to Cheval Blanc, Pichon Lalande, and Palmer in that order. I think the totals were Cheval Blanc in first, Palmer and Haut Brion close for second, with a few votes for Pichon Lalande and Giscours with a show, but could be off. Fun night, and if it hadn’t been for corked wines we’d have a great batting average.

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Nice line-up! But that certainly has to be one of the worst records for corked bottles. What a pity.

I remember the De Tertre punched above its weight that year. The Palmer and Pichon-Lalande were always standouts. Margaux was generally viewed as being in a slump in that period, so I guess its showing isn’t that surprising.

Thanks for the notes - a vintage I spent a lot of time selling and drinking. The '79 Lynch Bages was always a midweight lightweight, and probably peaked in the late 1980s, their '78 and '79 were notorious underachievers.

Surprised the Margaux didn’t show better, but Palmer was always considered one of the top wines of the vintage.

Thomas - You confirmed my vague recollection about the Lynch Bages.

When I drank all the 1979 FGs back in May, Margaux was the clear winner for me.

Claffee, when I drank all your 1979 FGs back in May, do you remember what I liked best? I forgot. I think probably HB. I almost always like HB best.

I liked the HB best on Tuesday night. Dale, great notes from memory. The Haut Brion had dark fruit and tasted much younger that the rest of the 79’s.

I don’t know - for some reason you weren’t tagged in Delectable.

I know a lot of folks liked Cheval but I thought the acidity stuck out like a sore thumb. Pichon, Palmer, and HB were really good IMHO.

One thing about NYers, you can’t agree on anything. I’ve never had the 79 Cheval but out of the other favorites I’d go Palmer, HB and PLL. Too bad there wasn’t a Latour and LLC in there.

I’m generally a fan of the vintage, and admittedly a big fan of the 1979 Haut Brion. But, having had a few of that and a few of the 1979 Cheval Blanc over the last few years, I’m convinced that my preference veers slightly over to the 79 CB. The bottles during this fun dinner was no exception in terms of my preference. Here are my notes on both bottles from the dinner:

1979 Cheval Blanc continue to show that edge in mineral and herb notes which rounds up the acidity and the tasty layers of red/black fruit that helps make it a more contemplative, yet complex wine to my taste. A-

1979 Haut Brion with its wonderful wet earth and leaves on the bouquet was all balance, but also showed ample acidity. A delight to drink with plump-ripe black fruit that follows-through to the long delicious finish. A-

The rest of my notes to follow, but will thank the group for the enjoyable company and the wines. I also have to add that I enjoyed the rustic French food at La Mangeoire.

Ramon

I agree with Father Sax. I mostly do …

I’d never had the 79 Cheval Blanc before, and I really liked it. Well structured, with lovely fruit and spices hanging from the branches. A little skinny, but very seductive. Grip and complexity. Fan as always of the Palmer. HB lacked tobacco and didn’t really grab me like most vintages of HB do. PLL pretty but a bit blousy.

and Dale … thanks for the notes. You have an awesome memory and generous spirit.

Just piling on with the rest of my notes:
1979 Bordeaux at La Mangeoire

2005 Dauvissat Le Clos Chablis Grand Cru
Sulfur and confection on the nose. Lemony, but a little flabby. B

2011 Laurent Tribut Clos de Lechet Chablis 1er
Mineral. Lime with tinge of tropical fruit lushness. I like the feminine structure and drinkability of this young Chablis. B+

1979 Ch. Du Tertre, Margaux
Corked.

1979 Ch. Giscours, Margaux
Earthy notes, but nicely perfumed. Blue berries. Ripe. Good length. B+

1979 Ch. Margaux, Margaux
It’s that great Margaux bouquet again. Acidity. Not much dimension to talk about. Was looking forward to this one. B

1979 Ch. Palmer, Margaux
More great alluring bouquet. Acidity. More mineral and fruit complexity. B+

1979 Ch. Pichom Lalande, Pauillac
Here comes that cabernet nose. Slight dill, but overall well balanced. Voluptuous. B+

1979 Ch. Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan
Corked.

1979 Ch. L’evangile, Pomerol
Corked.

1979 Ch. Ausone, Saint-Emilion
Corked.