The Santa Barbara County Vintner`s charity auction benefitting Direct Relief International was held this past February at the esteemed Bacara Rssort. The feature lot was a celebration of the 10th anniversary of the movie Sideways.
It included a reunion dinner at Jim Clendenen`s picturesque ranch estate prepared by top notch chefs, fine wines, many found in the movie, and attendance by some of the cast including Paul Giamatti, the director, Alexander Payne and many people who worked for and on the movie.
The night before, at the same venue, there was a pre- celebration reunion party featuring a roasted pig, a plethora of wines and over 100 folks in attendance, most of whom are local winemakers. Notes for that night have already been posted.
The events were co-created by Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat and Frank Ostini of the Hitching Post restaurant and wine label.
I found Paul Giamatti to be the real deal and so easy and approachable. During a fun and engaging conversation, he shared with me a very interesting story as to how Merlot was picked to be the villain in the movie. Alexander Payne, who also co-wrote the script was struggling to come up with an antithesis to Pinot Noir and after a lot of consideration decided Merlot sounded better than any other varietal. It had nothing to do with the varietal itself.
One of the highlights of this evening was a Skype call to Virginia Madsen who was in Budapest working on another movie. It was projected onto a large screen on stage above which Sideways had been playing throughout the evening.
The chefs included local favorites Michael Hutchings and james Sly of Santa Barbara, Jim Clendenen who is a chef par excellence, members of Hitching Post`s stellar crew headed by Frank Ostini and assisted by the quite capable Brad Lettau who joined HP in 1981.
See the menu attached in 3 parts.
All guests were greeted with a glass of NV Bollinger Special Cuvee and as tasty appetizers were being circulated, 2009 Clendenen Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc from Stallion Vineyard and 2013 Hitching Post “dry rose” called PINKS were added to the mix with generous refills offered for all.
NV BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVEE BRUT- I`m of the opinion, Champagne should be poured upon entering any home or venue at the outset to set the tone for celebration whatever the case may be and this filled the bill; a consistent winner, this was the perfect palate cleanser to start off the night; full of pleasant citrus notes and with good acidity, it drinks so easy and provided delight for all who treasure fine bubbly; there was so much poured, the Champagne glow was evident throughout.
2009 CLENDENEN FAMILY VINEYARDS STALLION VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC- soft and smooth, this glides all the way to the back end and carries along nice herbal and grassy notes with a hit of citrus.
2013 HITCHING POST du ROSE PINKS- 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Grenache and Val Diguie- while this was being poured, Im standing next to my friend, the co-owner of this label which is also known as Hartley- Ostini Hitching Post, Gray Hartley. He informed me of the blend, the Saignee method used on all of the fruit and that Val Diguie is AKA Napa Gamay; some may be aware its AKA Gros Auxerrois from the Languedoc; we had the perfect evening for this rose; it was a warm and slightly balmy night and this chilled and concentrated beauty shined and satisfied.
Paired perfectly with the Ranch`s own salad fixings, we moved inside a large tent and started with our first course:
2001 AU BON CLIMAT HILDEGARD ESTATE WHITE WINE- a blend of 55% Pinot Gris, 40% Pinot Blanc and 5% Aligote; named after Charlemagnes second wife, this consistently fine white wine blend was superb; its also a consistent treat each and every vintage; with good minerality and acidity, it delivers fresh citrus and stone fruit character; it`s so refreshing, crisp and savory.
The 2nd course of grilled shrimp and delicious Piruana beans with a corn salad prepared by Jim saw another great match with the next 2 wines:
2001 AU BON CLIMAT NUITS BLANCHES au BOUGE HARMONY CHARDONNAY- I love this wine and we had it just last night as part of the stellar lineup of “entrance” wines on the patio; I`m into smooth and creamy mouthfeel and this delivers in spades; it is replete with lots of citrus, especially lemon and lime and has some white melon and apple notes to add to the fruit profile; layered and complex with nice length.
2001 HITCHING POST BIEN NACIDO PINOT NOIR- one of the best HPs I`ve enjoyed over many years; loved the spice and touch of pepper that compliments the red and black berry fruit; beautifully balanced, seamless and sooooo tasty.
The 3rd course of BBQ`d quail got 2 more gems plus an add on I opened and shared with our table including the one who made it and my new buddy, Paul Giamatti:
2003 AU BON CLIMAT KNOX ALEXANDER PINOT NOIR- of the 2 children labeled wines, Knox has been really shinning of late as we had the 99, 03 and 04 last night and now happily get another round or 3 of the 03; serious and elegant, complex and charming, intense and sophisticated; coming together nicely and has the stuffing to go on for many years.
2003 HITCHING POST HIGHLINER PINOT NOIR- Highliner was already the champion of the HP lineup and after Sideways, it took off in major proportions and has not looked back since and with good reason, it`s fine Pinot Noir; this bottle gave and gave; the fruit and bright acidity hallmark this refined and yet complex winner.
2008 AU BON CLIMAT 20 YEARS IN THE SHED WITH BOB PINOT NOIR- this is one of my favorites from ABC through all of the years even though it is so youthful and still evolving; its got that smooth and creamy texture and the fruit profile is of the strawberry and raspberry type, but this gets some cranberry too; theres a touch of spice and cinnamon and a lot of pleasure here; already rounded, balanced and approachable; yes, it will move into greater dimensions with time; I will keep my hands off of most of the bottles I have; epio.
Oak grilled filet mignon gets the next wines which worked magic on the palate:
2001 VITA NOVA “ACRONICUS” BLENDED RED- 34% Petit Verdot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; named after the silent now deceased co-owner, Steve Acronico, this was made by the others, Jim Clendenen, Bob Lindquist and Doug Margerum; soft, elegant with deep rich color and a medium full body; it`s still youthful and vibrant and has the tannic backbone to handle years of aging.
2001 HITCHING POST PURISIMA MOUNTAIN VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON- many who know the HP label did not know they made other than Pinots in their red lineup and this is one that stands out; it`s quite splendid, easy on the palate, long on the finish and a doubt eraser for those who do not believe good Cab Sauv can be made in this area.
The dessert wines could have been served by themselves as they were in effect, dessert in a glass:
2008 CLENDENEN FAMILY VINEYARDS LATE HARVEST RIESLING- honeyed stone fruit especially peach and apricot with some pineapple notes are served up in a viscous texture and test the tipping point for exotic, tantalizing pleasure.
2009 HITCHING POST LATE HARVEST GEWURTZTRAMINER- at 12.5% RS. this honeyed stone fruit delight coats the palate with a thick and creamy substance of pure sweetness.
What a night! If anyone left not fully satiated, they would have to been on a fast. The entire evening was so well thought out and organized. The service was superb and the wines and food were over the top. New and old friendships were cultivated and I join many who stated this would be a good act to follow up with for special Sideways reunions. I`m in.
Cheers,
Blake
