Search found 1429 matches

by William Kelley
March 26th, 2016, 5:21 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Henri Bonneau has passed
Replies: 42
Views: 3003

Henri Bonneau has passed

Hank: The last time I tasted with him, Henri opined that the 1989 Celestins was the greatest wine he ever made. I see no reason to argue with that. I expect that the 89-90 comparison with Celestins will ultimately play out the way the 89-90 Rayas comparison has already played out, and that Henri wil...
by William Kelley
March 23rd, 2016, 10:15 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Henri Bonneau has passed
Replies: 42
Views: 3003

Henri Bonneau has passed

This is devastating news. I probably learned more about wine tasting in Henri's cellar than anywhere else. A lot of his personality is captured in his uniquely personal wines. And a lot of Châteauneuf du Pape's heritage too. Henri used to say that diabetes had kept him alive by enforcing moderation ...
by William Kelley
March 19th, 2016, 12:42 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 1991 Williams-Selyem Rochioli Vineyard
Replies: 4
Views: 310

1991 Williams-Selyem Rochioli Vineyard

Sounds lovely. I interviewed Burt a few weeks ago and he opened his penultimate bottle of the 1988 Summa which was drinking similarly beautifully, with no signs of decline whatsoever. You're lucky to have a nice stash of his wines remaining!
by William Kelley
February 23rd, 2016, 8:20 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2010 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes
Replies: 12
Views: 540

TN: 2010 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes

Well I had a stunning bottle three months ago... What do you guys really expect from a 6 year old bottle of Ramonet Ruchottes? Time was when people wouldn't even look at their cases of this wine until it was age 10+... The consumer mentality that demands something different has got to be contributor...
by William Kelley
February 23rd, 2016, 7:24 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2010 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes
Replies: 12
Views: 540

TN: 2010 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes

Nice note, harsh score. This would be more like 94/100 for me. 1er cru Chassagne doesn't get much better to my palate. B. Moreau's Ruchottes, PYCM's Caillerets and Fontaine Gagnard's La Romanée are the only wines that rival this cuvée for me. And 2010 was terrific for Ramonet. Touch-wood no premox y...
by William Kelley
February 23rd, 2016, 7:22 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Poll: how many btls of V. Dancer would you buy?
Replies: 30
Views: 1300

Poll: how many btls of V. Dancer would you buy?

While I agree that this is reduction rather than oak, Dancer is pretty well-known for having a very bad premox record. But the wines are lovely young, and he is a very nice guy, as well as a part-time fireman. The last time I was tasting there he got paged and had to dash off to the fire station.
by William Kelley
February 23rd, 2016, 8:33 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Best QPR California rose
Replies: 34
Views: 1438

Best QPR California rose

A small project worth checking out is Belharra. They made a Syrah Rosé (a barrel fermented saigné) that is hard to beat at $20:

http://belharrawines.com/shop/2015-belh ... s-of-syrah
by William Kelley
February 21st, 2016, 10:31 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Horizontal
Replies: 28
Views: 1551

1998 Chataneuf-du-Pape Horizontal

1998 VT has been pretty consistently like that in my experience. A London restaurant I know well returned five cases to their distributor. I've also never had a good bottle of 1998 Beaucastel. It is rumored that it contains about 8g/L residual sugar. Certainly a far cry from Beaucastels like 1981 or...
by William Kelley
February 18th, 2016, 4:13 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2008 Vintage Assessment and Premox Check Dinner No. 1
Replies: 94
Views: 6118

2008 Vintage Assessment and Premox Check Dinner No. 1

It's sad that this is the ~20 year anniversary of premox. Not exactly something to celebrate. Does anyone know how common it was to do Milk/Casein fining on white Burgs in the early 90s and before...and if anyone is doing it now? I've heard various anecdotes regarding Casein fining in the 90's earl...
by William Kelley
February 18th, 2016, 2:45 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2008 Vintage Assessment and Premox Check Dinner No. 1
Replies: 94
Views: 6118

2008 Vintage Assessment and Premox Check Dinner No. 1

I had been looking forward to this thread, which is fascinating and corresponds in its conclusions with my personal experience and anecdotal impressions. It is a pity it is so hard to really learn much about the minutiae of élevage practices and how they have changed. A number of vignerons I've spok...
by William Kelley
February 18th, 2016, 2:38 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 15 Monte Bello
Replies: 67
Views: 6538

15 Monte Bello

When I corresponded with Eric Baugher at the end of last year he was very happy with the vintage and made comparisons with the 1995 - which is drinking very well right now.
by William Kelley
February 14th, 2016, 10:39 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Undervalued wine regions?
Replies: 67
Views: 2957

Undervalued wine regions?

Cru Beaujolais (while some are creeping up in price producers like Bouland and Clos Roilette are making seriously age-worthy wines for a tiny tarrif) Muscadet (from a handful of producers) A few northern Rhone producers (e.g. Levet) Loire (pretty much everyone except Clos Rougeard and Joly's wines) ...
by William Kelley
February 12th, 2016, 9:49 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 1999 Rene Engel Vosne Romanee Brulees
Replies: 12
Views: 984

1999 Rene Engel Vosne Romanee Brulees

A strong case could be made that 1999 was Engel's strongest vintage. For me the other contenders would be 1993 and 2002, which are also really successful, but I think just a bit more marked by the vintages as opposed to the sites. Whereas the 1999s are lovely glasses of Pinot and very clearly differ...
by William Kelley
February 11th, 2016, 4:21 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Saturday Wines -'88 Haut-Brion, '90 La Mission, etc.
Replies: 3
Views: 387

Saturday Wines -'88 Haut-Brion, '90 La Mission, etc.

I can see the 88' Haut Brion cruising along for several more decades. It's interesting how some of the better 1988s have begun to really shine, in some cases arguably outpacing their 1989 or 1990 counterparts (e.g. I would suggest Léoville Barton). And I agree that the 1990 La Mission is drinking ve...
by William Kelley
February 8th, 2016, 3:24 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Question: Burghound vs A View from the Cellar
Replies: 25
Views: 2062

Question: Burghound vs A View from the Cellar

I am a Gilman fan. While he does not attempt to taste 'objectively', a dubious proposition at best to my mind (though one better not debated here), he does taste very consistently. He also tries to give ageworthy, traditionally-style wines their due, which is helpful if those are wines you appreciat...
by William Kelley
February 5th, 2016, 3:59 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Natural cork news
Replies: 152
Views: 5327

Natural cork news

William, Oliver and Doug addressed your issue with reduction, but on your second point, that of winery procedures prior to screw-cap bottling, care to expand on this? You make it sound as if there's something not-quite-right going on. Thanks. Wines to be bottled under screw cap are typically fined ...
by William Kelley
February 5th, 2016, 2:54 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Natural cork news
Replies: 152
Views: 5327

Natural cork news

We are living in an era of nanotechnology and still use something as ancient and variable as cork to close expensive bottles of wine. IMO the wine producers still using corks should be a bit ashamed of themselves. Variability between corks (and wines) has been a problem that has been known to exist...
by William Kelley
February 5th, 2016, 2:52 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Natural cork news
Replies: 152
Views: 5327

Natural cork news

Chris, What do you think about the issue of reduction in screw cap wines? How much do you know about how wines being bottled under screw-cap are processed in the winery? To me, those to issues are far stronger points against screw-caps than any of the complaints one might make against natural corks...
by William Kelley
February 5th, 2016, 2:50 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2012 Vincent Paris Cornas La Geynale - Finally . . . .
Replies: 21
Views: 2002

TN: 2012 Vincent Paris Cornas La Geynale - Finally . . . .

This is good to read.

Nice that he kept the old Michel label too.
by William Kelley
February 5th, 2016, 10:37 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: SQN Syrah question: 2010 Five Shooter or 2011 Dark Blossom
Replies: 5
Views: 387

SQN Syrah question: 2010 Five Shooter or 2011 Dark Blossom

The Dark Blossom is extremely strongly marked by its barrel regime right now, the Five Shooter less so—for what that's worth.
by William Kelley
February 5th, 2016, 10:34 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Natural cork news
Replies: 152
Views: 5327

Natural cork news

We are living in an era of nanotechnology and still use something as ancient and variable as cork to close expensive bottles of wine. IMO the wine producers still using corks should be a bit ashamed of themselves. Variability between corks (and wines) has been a problem that has been known to exist...
by William Kelley
February 3rd, 2016, 9:46 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: At what age will/did you stop buying new release wines?
Replies: 109
Views: 4091

At what age will/did you stop buying new release wines?

This is a genuinely interesting question. I talked about this with a UK collector / drinker last year who has a truly amazing cellar:—ranging from magnums of pre-1995 Ramonet Montrachet to old Henri Gouges blanc to 1950s Rayas—all bought pretty much on release. His advice was to aim to stop buying a...
by William Kelley
February 3rd, 2016, 10:23 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Best Californian wine from today in 2100
Replies: 37
Views: 2023

Best Californian wine from today in 2100

John has already corrected me on that point Doug!

Thanks,
William
by William Kelley
February 3rd, 2016, 9:50 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Best Californian wine from today in 2100
Replies: 37
Views: 2023

Best Californian wine from today in 2100

Thanks for the Heitz insights, John. I will have to head down the road to taste there some time soon. I am pretty familiar with their wines from the '70s, but my experience with recent vintages is only episodic by comparison.
by William Kelley
February 2nd, 2016, 10:02 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Best Californian wine from today in 2100
Replies: 37
Views: 2023

Best Californian wine from today in 2100

Hi Folks, Really a fun idea to throw around. There are lots of Burgundies and Bordeaux that make it that long- for instance, good grand crus from 1937 are still brilliant- Drouhin Bonnes-Mares a fairly recent case in point- and 1928 Bordeaux still have decades and decades of life ahead of them. So,...
by William Kelley
February 1st, 2016, 10:39 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Building a beaujolais cellar.... 10 bottles
Replies: 32
Views: 2539

Building a beaujolais cellar.... 10 bottles

I second the plaudits for Bouland's Morgons — both Delys and Corcelette. Those wines age very, very well, and I am surprised they do not get more attention.

While I haven't tasted the new Lafarge Beaujolais wines, I would imagine they might well be worth considering too.
by William Kelley
January 31st, 2016, 8:51 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: your hypothetical wine bar: pick 5 Burgs to serve by the glass
Replies: 21
Views: 1373

your hypothetical wine bar: pick 5 Burgs to serve by the glass

A fun challenge. I wonder if it makes sense to include sought-after wines like Tremblay or Mugneret Gibourg, even lower appellation wines, BTG, as those might be better-placed on the main list? Maybe by including Bachelet in my list below I'm contradicting myself... 2012 Pattes Loup Chablis AOC 2012...
by William Kelley
January 31st, 2016, 1:00 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Tasting of 2013 Burgundies
Replies: 38
Views: 2024

Tasting of 2013 Burgundies

Really nice notes, which very much align with my own perceptions. Spot on about the PYCM Caillerets. I often think that wine is as good as any he makes, often surpassing the higher appellation negoce wines to my palate. And good to be reminded about how successful Bart and Jouan so often are. I reme...
by William Kelley
January 30th, 2016, 3:12 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 14' Eyrie Pinot Gris Original vines
Replies: 5
Views: 314

TN: 14' Eyrie Pinot Gris Original vines

Agree this is consistently a special bottling. There is a particular herbal /spice signature to this wine that I have trouble pinning down. Nice to have a source for Pinot Gris made in this style outside of Alsace, a region to which climate change has not, to my mind, been kind. As for Eyrie longevi...
by William Kelley
January 30th, 2016, 3:08 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: Lunch with 2012 and 2013 Fourrier CSJ and Griotte, 95 Raveneau Blanchot, 05 Leflaive Chevalier and more
Replies: 11
Views: 686

TN: Lunch with 2012 and 2013 Fourrier CSJ and Griotte, 95 Raveneau Blanchot, 05 Leflaive Chevalier and more

The 2013 Fourrier wines showed beautifully from barrel samples in London. I would feel very confident owning them—in fact I do. I just wish I had some Griotte. Seems like the 2013s are for the most part shutting down hard thanks to their acids. But there have been enough misjudged vintages like 80, ...
by William Kelley
January 30th, 2016, 3:03 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Best Californian wine from today in 2100
Replies: 37
Views: 2023

Best Californian wine from today in 2100

Can see Togni's 2013 going that long.
by William Kelley
January 29th, 2016, 10:19 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: New Somm Movie - Into the Bottle
Replies: 33
Views: 2507

New Somm Movie - Into the Bottle

The film is really fun. I have an interview with Jason Wise coming out online for Decanter Magazine on February 2nd, which is the date the film goes live on 'rest of the world' iTunes.
by William Kelley
January 29th, 2016, 5:49 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: A couple of Overnoys
Replies: 14
Views: 614

A couple of Overnoys

Agreed, the 2005 Chardonnay is spectacular!
by William Kelley
January 28th, 2016, 9:31 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: UGC 2016 (2013 Bordeaux)
Replies: 14
Views: 1250

UGC 2016 (2013 Bordeaux)

The critical assessment is about right. Bon Pasteur seems to have got off pretty lightly, but you had tasted quite a few wines by then, and it is possible that after Troplong Mondot it did indeed seem pretty middle-of-the-road.
by William Kelley
January 28th, 2016, 9:28 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TNs: blind tasting 14 red Burgundies
Replies: 10
Views: 1443

TNs: blind tasting 14 red Burgundies

Good showings from the 2006 Jadots are totally in keeping with a few bottles I had over Christmas, most memorably a very youthful but very correct Echezeaux. Good to be reminded that there are some very serious wines being offered by the big houses, as it is so easy just to fixate on the sought-afte...
by William Kelley
January 28th, 2016, 9:22 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: DRC GE and RSV 2012
Replies: 18
Views: 1278

DRC GE and RSV 2012

I tried the RSV last February at the Domaine. It is a striking wine: large-scaled (by the standards of DRC RSV), beautifully balanced, and with immense incipient complexity. It is also youthfully reductive and endowed with a very serious, if refined, structural chassis; so opening magnums—or bottles...
by William Kelley
January 23rd, 2016, 2:17 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Fourrier and question about Bourgogne Rouge
Replies: 20
Views: 1272

Fourrier and question about Bourgogne Rouge

This raises a more general question about how strongly longevity and hierarchy correlate in Burgundy. While there obviously is a correlation, and a pretty strong one too, I would suggest that it is sometimes assumed too uncritically. On the one hand, it's easy to imagine a Clos St Jaques or Cros Par...
by William Kelley
January 17th, 2016, 10:59 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Killer Loire/Chinon (1977-2010) Night w/Tooch, Corey N., and Marc F. [and a '65 Mouton for kicks]
Replies: 110
Views: 5393

Killer Loire/Chinon (1977-2010) Night w/Tooch, Corey N., and Marc F. [and a '65 Mouton for kicks]

Nice notes! In 2005 Clos Rougeard made a stunning set of wines. The 05 Bourg is probably the best young red Loire I've ever had. And that Vatan 2010 is so tight but so good!

Did you guys really drink an entire 750 of PX though!?
by William Kelley
January 11th, 2016, 10:54 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Excuse me!?!
Replies: 34
Views: 2652

Excuse me!?!

While the broader discussion this quotation raises is certainly interesting, I would caution against taking Monsieur Engerer's statement too literally.
by William Kelley
January 10th, 2016, 3:40 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2006 Clos des Lambrays
Replies: 6
Views: 475

TN: 2006 Clos des Lambrays

Interesting note. My sense of the archetypal Lambrays nose is rather different, featuring quite dark fruit tones, smoked duck / grilled game and pungent, spicy earth—but also quite fragrant like the wine you've described. It sounds like the 2006 is a bit more open for inspection than the 2005 I tast...
by William Kelley
January 10th, 2016, 3:12 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: The Climats and Lieux-Dits of the Great Vineyards of Burgundy
Replies: 13
Views: 1404

The Climats and Lieux-Dits of the Great Vineyards of Burgundy

I got a copy of this for Christmas and can second what others have said about this being the best book of maps on Burgundy that one can find. Really excellent.
by William Kelley
January 8th, 2016, 3:20 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Has Clape Rouge Gone Rogue?
Replies: 16
Views: 1034

Has Clape Rouge Gone Rogue?

2010 seemed correct to me. Don't really understand the sudden slew of scores for a wine that had been exceptional for decades. I would personally approach prognostications of early drinkability with some skepticism, and it sounds you have significant experience of your own to extrapolate from!
by William Kelley
January 8th, 2016, 2:50 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: POVs on Mazis
Replies: 47
Views: 2880

POVs on Mazis

I too wish I knew this vineyard better. I have found it to be one of the more wild, untamed of the Gevrey grand crus (in contrast, for example, to Griotte-Chambertin), often with quite a smoky signature, and in the Dugat Py Mazis almost always graphite-like mineral aromas. The Dugat Py example I lik...
by William Kelley
January 7th, 2016, 7:34 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Eating and drinking in Barolo, Burgundy, and Barbaresco
Replies: 72
Views: 8269

Eating and drinking in Barolo, Burgundy, and Barbaresco

Lovely photos and commentary. It sounds like you had a leisurely drive through the Alps. The last time I attempted that itinerary, in the opposite direction, we had to leave Burgundy in time to visit Giacosa at 9 am!
by William Kelley
January 5th, 2016, 7:50 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: A Barrage of Burgundy
Replies: 19
Views: 1264

A Barrage of Burgundy

If I had to make Dugat comparisons re. Mortet, I would say Claude Dugat rather than Bernard Dugat-Py. Arnaud's wines are really not anywhere near as extracted as Bernard & Loïc's. He is also working in a pretty reductive style, which certainly marked the 12s and 13s from barrel and is going to need ...
by William Kelley
January 4th, 2016, 4:34 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: A Barrage of Burgundy
Replies: 19
Views: 1264

A Barrage of Burgundy

Nice notes! I have a six-pack of the 2012 Rousseau Clos des Ruchottes that I'm going to start drinking in 2032 or so. Interestingly Rousseau's website suggest they rank 2012 above 2010 for their wines. I'm not inclined to dissent. Was the coffee note on the Cathiard Malconsorts coffee as in coffee g...
by William Kelley
January 4th, 2016, 6:52 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2005 Domaine Denis Bachelet Côte de Nuits Villages
Replies: 2
Views: 316

TN: 2005 Domaine Denis Bachelet Côte de Nuits Villages

It doesn't surprise me that this is still improving. Consistently good stuff. The 2011 for example is lovely.

As I recall, the bulk of this comes from the Brochon lieu-dit Queue de Hareng. No good reason in terms of terroir why it shouldn't be Gevrey (or Fixin) AOC really.
by William Kelley
January 3rd, 2016, 12:40 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Speciale
Replies: 35
Views: 2616

TN: 1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Speciale

Seems like a tragic way to handle a very special bottle.
by William Kelley
January 3rd, 2016, 11:22 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 1966 Bordeaux
Replies: 15
Views: 533

TN: 1966 Bordeaux

With levels and colors like these, you should risk decanting some of these bottles. Could make the fruit really pop!

Some of the 1966s are showing really well right now. Haut Batailley is remarkably good, probably the best Haut Batailley I've ever encountered. And the '66 Ducru is magical!
by William Kelley
January 2nd, 2016, 3:30 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TNs: Royal East offline notes
Replies: 10
Views: 596

TNs: Royal East offline notes

I have encountered a lot of stewed, boderline oxidized bottles of the 1998 Vieux Telegraphe. The owner of a restaurant in London that I like told me he'd returned several cases for the same reason. So it may be the wine, not the bottle. A lot of the 1998 CdPs haven't turned out that great. Beaucaste...

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