Search found 50 matches

by JasperMorris
June 20th, 2020, 10:25 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
Replies: 16
Views: 764

Re: TN: 2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles

Marshall, that was true of Francois Jobard, less so with his son Antoine. I think the reason was connected to not settling out any of the solids after pressing, and then a very long time in barrel - 24 months or occasionally more. Plus, it is true, higher sulfur levels than would be used today. Grea...
by JasperMorris
June 19th, 2020, 9:29 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
Replies: 16
Views: 764

Re: TN: 2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles

The issue, as I understood it at the time, was that the domaine had used a sulfur dose in the vineyard shortly before the bunches closed up, fixing the sulfur with talcum powder (not as weird a practice as it sounds). There had been a lot of rain but at this point a drier patch followed, the bunch c...
by JasperMorris
June 19th, 2020, 5:25 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: books ?
Replies: 53
Views: 2484

Re: books ?

I can very much recommend Bouquet, GB Stern (1927 re-released in 2011) On the war, Wine & War is agreeable journalism, Christophe Lucand is proper history by one of the Burgundy's best historians, though he had to get it out quite rapidly as soon as new papers were released. It will make you think t...
by JasperMorris
June 18th, 2020, 9:28 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Climate change and Burgundy
Replies: 18
Views: 817

Re: Climate change and Burgundy

I have wondered if wines from villages higher up like St. Aubin will be more prized in the future. Also, I have really been enjoying reds the last several years from Chassagne Montrachet. Is this climate change or my former ignorance (or both). Howard, it is at least partly that there has been a gr...
by JasperMorris
June 17th, 2020, 11:27 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Etienne Sauzet Montrachet
Replies: 14
Views: 702

Re: Etienne Sauzet Montrachet

NB Not their own vineyards - this comes from Baron Thenard who deliver the wine after malo, having used barrels of Sauzet's choice. Shows well when I taste it pre bottling but I have not drunk it in bottle.
by JasperMorris
June 17th, 2020, 11:02 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Climate change and Burgundy
Replies: 18
Views: 817

Re: Climate change and Burgundy

I am about to start a series of zoom webinars on this, taking a look at various different parts of Burgundy week by week (starting this Saturday 11am EST / 8am PST) to try to tease out vineyards or villages that might be rising or falling in potential with global warming, as well as looking at produ...
by JasperMorris
June 13th, 2020, 1:23 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Terroir vs winemaking -- Neal Martin lays the smack down
Replies: 193
Views: 6806

Re: Terroir vs winemaking -- Neal Martin lays the smack down

Robert, typicity certainly enters into the equation. I tend to mark something up if not only is it a high class wine but it seems to me that it absolutely hits what I expect from the vineyard - and we do know approximately, sometimes exactly, the vineyard in question during Burgfest. So for example ...
by JasperMorris
June 11th, 2020, 10:13 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte - Transformer
Replies: 11
Views: 452

Re: TN: 2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte - Transformer

How wines perform and occasionally transform - endlessly fascinating and sometimes frustrating
by JasperMorris
June 11th, 2020, 12:23 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte - Transformer
Replies: 11
Views: 452

Re: TN: 2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte - Transformer

2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (6/10/2020) Wonderful wine - perfect drinking window. Upon first opening, I feared premox, as the wine was quite waxy and flabby, reticent on the nose. Very quic...
by JasperMorris
June 9th, 2020, 12:37 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Terroir vs winemaking -- Neal Martin lays the smack down
Replies: 193
Views: 6806

Re: Terroir vs winemaking -- Neal Martin lays the smack down

Neal felt like making a particular point, possibly chose the wrong vehicle to attach it to, but broadly speaking most of us would agree with him in not going along with terroir being trumpeted too loudly, especially in relation to producer. It should never be either/or in any case. Wine in general, ...
by JasperMorris
June 9th, 2020, 8:29 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Terroir vs winemaking -- Neal Martin lays the smack down
Replies: 193
Views: 6806

Re: Terroir vs winemaking -- Neal Martin lays the smack down

Exactly right, Scott

and it is me who organises the event... (which originated as an extension of Clive Coates' Bordeaux blind tasting sessions)
by JasperMorris
May 21st, 2020, 11:09 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Pinot Noir vine genetics in Burgundy: some photos
Replies: 34
Views: 1865

Re: Pinot Noir vine genetics in Burgundy: some photos

What part does root stock play in this William?, and could you cut back a Pinot Droit and graft another clone onto the existing root system. Yes you can, and indeed DRC have in Corton, while another well known grower is considering it for a recently acquired plot. But it only works if the vines are...
by JasperMorris
May 21st, 2020, 10:57 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Pinot Noir vine genetics in Burgundy: some photos
Replies: 34
Views: 1865

Re: Pinot Noir vine genetics in Burgundy: some photos

William, I don't know for sure, but there was more than one plot in the Engel Brulees and I don't think it was all pinot droit. Certainly Engerer & team at Eugenie immediately declassified some but kept the rest. Would be interested to know more
by JasperMorris
May 20th, 2020, 10:03 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Burgundy | Baie par Baie "technique"
Replies: 23
Views: 1514

Re: Burgundy | Baie par Baie "technique"

In fact I haven't tasted at Moron Garcia David Duband pioneered the pedicel thing quite a while back They used to destem by hand the three barrels worth of Musigny at Domaine de la Vougeraie but it simply isn't workable, and anyway they have moved to whole-cluster. Thibault Liger Belair tried it on ...
by JasperMorris
May 18th, 2020, 1:06 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Lafon Volnay Tete de cuvee
Replies: 6
Views: 672

Re: Lafon Volnay Tete de cuvee

Just to clarify, the mention of Tete de Cuvee or not is purely a labelling issue, not two separate wines
by JasperMorris
May 18th, 2020, 5:32 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Lafon Volnay Tete de cuvee
Replies: 6
Views: 672

Re: Lafon Volnay Tete de cuvee

Just had this thread pointed out to me (thank you William). I have checked my own last bottle of the 1983 Santenots which I have had since first shipment and it does not specify Tete de Cuvee on it, though the label is otherwise identical. I wouldn't read anything into that though. However I do reme...
by JasperMorris
May 18th, 2020, 4:51 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Three adjacent parcels of Meursault Perrières this Spring
Replies: 57
Views: 2541

Re: Three adjacent parcels of Meursault Perrières this Spring

Great post William I agree with Bill that the yellow in Darviot-Perrin's vines is a virus problem and as such may not be typical of other plots of his - but clearly worrying here. Would be very interesting to repeat these shots in mid season and again as you suggest on the eve of harvest. Possible e...
by JasperMorris
May 16th, 2020, 10:41 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Ponsot wines without Laurent?
Replies: 18
Views: 1286

Re: Ponsot wines without Laurent?

Laurent kept the sharecropping contracts which had been in his name when he was at Domaine Ponsot (Clos St Denis, Griotte-Chambertin etc), and also the negociant contracts which he had already established. Since setting up on his own he has added more negociant contracts and has been able to buy som...
by JasperMorris
May 15th, 2020, 1:42 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Ponsot wines without Laurent?
Replies: 18
Views: 1286

Re: Ponsot wines without Laurent?

There's actually a possible double upside here - Domaine wines improving post Laurent - there have been a couple of useful tweaks - and Laurent's own wines being better than anything he made during his later years at the domaine.
by JasperMorris
May 12th, 2020, 11:37 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What did Jasper get wrong? (Burgundy)
Replies: 42
Views: 3873

Re: What did Jasper get wrong? (Burgundy)

Many thanks all, and especially Jacob - great stuff! Some of which I was aware of, and some not. On the Outstanding/Exceptional 1ers crus, Corbeaux was indeed a mistake and we should have picked up on the confusion between outstanding and exceptional. All in hand for version 2. Echezeaux numbers sti...
by JasperMorris
May 3rd, 2020, 9:28 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Domaine Guillemot-Michel, Burgundy
Replies: 56
Views: 3256

Re: Domaine Guillemot-Michel, Burgundy

Fascinating, Gautier
I agree with William's view that your explanation of Vire-Clesse and Quintaine is the best I have seen.

For those interested also in saké, Gautier has written an excellent book on the subject in French - not sure if it has been translated into English though.
by JasperMorris
April 27th, 2020, 1:10 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Best books on Burgundy
Replies: 53
Views: 6017

Re: Best books on Burgundy

I have just reviewed the Meadows & Barzelay Vintages book for World of Fine Wine, should appear any day now - it is a brilliant book, as William suggests and does indeed break new ground. Now back to work on my second edition - which will have a great deal more detail on who owns what of each lieu-d...
by JasperMorris
April 25th, 2020, 8:25 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Faiveley and Drouhin holdings?
Replies: 51
Views: 2320

Re: Faiveley and Drouhin holdings?

Dennis, Yes, Faiveley have indeed made a small bottling of Amoureuses for quite a while. It may depend on the nature of the agreement as to whether or not they can call it Domaine. They were not able to declare the Matrot Wittersheim holdings as domaine, when they had that contract, because the arra...
by JasperMorris
April 22nd, 2020, 11:12 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Faiveley and Drouhin holdings?
Replies: 51
Views: 2320

Re: Faiveley and Drouhin holdings?

Dennis, Jasper says he is working on the book. By the time he is done maybe bookstores will be open. Yes, lockdown is helping me catch up on the book, zooms notwithstanding. These are the domaine figures which I currently have, but will verify them again before publication. Hectares rather than acr...
by JasperMorris
March 31st, 2020, 1:30 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Your thoughts on Morey 1er Cru's
Replies: 32
Views: 1359

Re: Your thoughts on Morey 1er Cru's

Faconnieres is a signature bottling of Lignier-Michelot and the larger portion of the H Lignier MSD 1er VV (which is probably the best wine of that appellation). + 1 The survey is a geological one carried out by the excellent Francoise Vannier and her colleagues. Lots of holes in the ground to see ...
by JasperMorris
March 31st, 2020, 9:30 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Your thoughts on Morey 1er Cru's
Replies: 32
Views: 1359

Re: Your thoughts on Morey 1er Cru's

I am a big fan of Faconnières

The growers in Morey have just paid for a geological survey of their vineyards, but the results aren't out yet
by JasperMorris
March 28th, 2020, 12:08 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What red and white Burgundies are currently in your cellar - by vintage
Replies: 66
Views: 2225

Re: What red and white Burgundies are currently in your cellar - by vintage

Here's my Top 20 reds: not enough variation in the whites to be of interest. I have some 2016s still to come. Almost all wines are original purchases though I was able to backfill some 1993 and 1998 recently. 1 2005 14% 2 2010 11% 3 2015 11% 4 2009 9% 5 2008 7% 6 2011 6% 7 2012 5% 8 2014 5% 9 2007 ...
by JasperMorris
March 27th, 2020, 3:02 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What red and white Burgundies are currently in your cellar - by vintage
Replies: 66
Views: 2225

Re: What red and white Burgundies are currently in your cellar - by vintage

Here's my Top 20 reds: not enough variation in the whites to be of interest. I have some 2016s still to come. Almost all wines are original purchases though I was able to backfill some 1993 and 1998 recently. 1 2005 14% 2 2010 11% 3 2015 11% 4 2009 9% 5 2008 7% 6 2011 6% 7 2012 5% 8 2014 5% 9 2007 5...
by JasperMorris
March 26th, 2020, 10:08 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Natural wine - now an officially recognized designation in France
Replies: 53
Views: 1652

Re: Natural wine - now an officially recognized designation in France

I'm worried about the H2SO4

"Poor Old Stinky's dead and gone
His face you'll see no more
What he thought was H2O
was H2SO4"
by JasperMorris
March 26th, 2020, 6:04 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Vintages that have surprised you to the upside
Replies: 58
Views: 2097

Re: Vintages that have surprised you to the upside

The occasional lesser 2013 has been relatively forward, but I have not tackled any of the grander ones yet. I think they may start to drink reasonably soon though I suspect that the real successes of the vintage will be for the long haul
by JasperMorris
March 26th, 2020, 4:09 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Vintages that have surprised you to the upside
Replies: 58
Views: 2097

Re: Vintages that have surprised you to the upside

Definitely agree on 1993 white burgundy and 2000 red

1976 red burgundy took 40 years but can now be thrilling

2012 white and 2013 red may outperform expectations (depends on your expectations of course)
by JasperMorris
March 26th, 2020, 4:04 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2011 Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Three “Mostly Montrachet” – March 27, 2019 at Spago
Replies: 44
Views: 2543

Re: 2011 Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Three “Mostly Montrachet” – March 27, 2019 at Spago

Don This is what I wrote about 2005 in my now slightly out of date paper on the premox pox. Written in 2013 maybe? Growers commented during the harvest that the chardonnay must was oxidising very quickly. This may not be a bad thing however as it removes the oxidases at an early stage. First tasting...
by JasperMorris
March 11th, 2020, 9:49 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: CA Pinot vs Burgundy — why are critics kinder to CA?
Replies: 112
Views: 4456

Re: CA Pinot vs Burgundy — why are critics kinder to CA?

This is a professionally interesting discussion, though also a bit of a rabbit warren (when I want to avoid getting into it, when people ask me about scoring, my stock reply is that, being British, I score out of 20 and then simply multiply by five). In Burgundy, however, where there is also an eve...
by JasperMorris
March 11th, 2020, 7:58 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: CA Pinot vs Burgundy — why are critics kinder to CA?
Replies: 112
Views: 4456

Re: CA Pinot vs Burgundy — why are critics kinder to CA?

I thought about this for a long time before crossing over from wine merchant to critic, knowing that I would need to use the 100 point scale but wanting to find a way that successful wines from lesser appellations in Burgundy could still have a chance to shine. My solution is to score out of 100 bu...
by JasperMorris
March 10th, 2020, 10:55 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: anybody traveling in France?
Replies: 99
Views: 6438

Re: anybody traveling in France?

Just to advise on Beaune situation There have been no cases in Beaune so far. A Chinese tourist did indeed die of a heart attack, and so his group were kept in quarantine just for the length of time necessary for confirmation that the victim did not have the virus. Grands Jours de Bourgogne was sens...
by JasperMorris
March 10th, 2020, 11:27 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: CA Pinot vs Burgundy — why are critics kinder to CA?
Replies: 112
Views: 4456

Re: CA Pinot vs Burgundy — why are critics kinder to CA?

I thought about this for a long time before crossing over from wine merchant to critic, knowing that I would need to use the 100 point scale but wanting to find a way that successful wines from lesser appellations in Burgundy could still have a chance to shine. My solution is to score out of 100 but...
by JasperMorris
March 10th, 2020, 7:35 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Marchand-Grillot? Anyone??
Replies: 14
Views: 760

Re: Marchand-Grillot? Anyone??

I tasted the 2018s in November and was impressed - 1er Cru Petite Chapelle outstanding, Champerrier vieilles vignes and Ruchottes plus most of the village cuvees very good
by JasperMorris
March 2nd, 2020, 7:00 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: ProWein 2020, VinItaly both will be rescheduled?
Replies: 26
Views: 2705

Re: ProWein 2020, cancelled. Is VinItaly next?

Grands Jours de Bourgogne now cancelled with just under a week's notice - but so far VinItaly still claims to be going ahead despite its location near one of the prime danger zones
by JasperMorris
March 1st, 2020, 11:28 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro
Replies: 168
Views: 10624

Re: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro

Tasting notes on a couple of 1996s from a Meursault Genevrières masterclass (mostly Lafon) I conducted recently in Hong Kong: 1996 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru Domaine François Jobard 93 **** Agreeable lightish colour, with some of the classic menthol character which I associate with this domaine (...
by JasperMorris
February 29th, 2020, 1:17 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro
Replies: 168
Views: 10624

Re: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro

Hi Mel One point to be aired about Leflaive 2006s is that they picked this vintage too late in a year where it was essential to react quickly - I don't think those wines were ever likely to last long. As such I have avoided them so I don't know if the experience of others has been more connected to ...
by JasperMorris
February 27th, 2020, 8:05 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What would your classification of Loire reds be?
Replies: 330
Views: 15609

Re: What would your classification of Loire reds be?

I have become a big fan of a new young grower in Bourgueil, Aurelien Revillot

loved Druet back in the early 80s (magnums of Grand Mont 1983 drunk 30 years later...)
by JasperMorris
February 25th, 2020, 8:27 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro
Replies: 168
Views: 10624

Re: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro

[/quote] I respect Jasper greatly, and he has more experience with burgundy than anyone I know (and lives there.) I am not a wine chemist by any means, and my knowledge is rudimentary. However, to the best of my knowledge, reversal of the oxidation of ethanol to return the wine to its original state...
by JasperMorris
February 15th, 2020, 11:30 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro
Replies: 168
Views: 10624

Re: 2011 White Burgundy Vintage Assessment Dinners – Night Two – March 14, 2019 at Drago Centro

A note on the Bernard Moreau Chevalier-Montrachet (and other grands crus when made). These are only made in tiny quantities and are negociant cuvees rather than domaine wines. Ditto Francois Carillon Chevalier for that matter. Might be worth slipping in a top Chassagne 1er cru from Moreau as a ringe...
by JasperMorris
February 5th, 2020, 10:21 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What did Jasper get wrong? (Burgundy)
Replies: 42
Views: 3873

Re: What did Jasper get wrong? (Burgundy)

Official price was UK £50 and US$75 but second hand copies have sometimes appeared on Amazon for way more, at moments when it has been out of print. Am working on second edition now for release in first half of 2021. Reason for previous reticence was not about wishing to avoid hurting business relat...
by JasperMorris
February 20th, 2019, 12:01 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Understanding the Producers of Volnay
Replies: 115
Views: 6134

Re: Understanding the Producers of Volnay

Impressive work, Bill
Danius, the list you refer to is defined by those who elect to sign up to it, hence a few big names missing
by JasperMorris
February 19th, 2019, 11:08 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Premox'd White Burgs Turn Great? (per Jasper Morris)
Replies: 117
Views: 5336

Re: Premox'd White Burgs Turn Great? (per Jasper Morris)

Thanks Peter! Stuart, I do indeed remember meeting you in Chablis, and indeed the conversation with Vincent. I think you took the wise course! Stuart, Alan: As far as I can tell, there has been no formal research by any official body within the Burgundy hierarchy. There has been plenty of research i...
by JasperMorris
February 19th, 2019, 10:14 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Understanding the Producers of Volnay
Replies: 115
Views: 6134

Re: Understanding the Producers of Volnay

thanks, happy to!
by JasperMorris
February 19th, 2019, 5:53 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Understanding the Producers of Volnay
Replies: 115
Views: 6134

Re: Understanding the Producers of Volnay

A couple of things to add to William's great post (and elsewhere in the thread): B & T Glantenay and Domaine Francois Buffet are both worth a look, the latter if you like stems. Also as mentioned in other posts, Lafon and Bitouzet-Prieur. Howard cleared up the 2 x Louis Boillot issue, but the one wh...
by JasperMorris
February 18th, 2019, 9:53 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Premox'd White Burgs Turn Great? (per Jasper Morris)
Replies: 117
Views: 5336

Re: Premox'd White Burgs Turn Great? (per Jasper Morris)

I am at last back at my desk and it is a bit clearer than it was! Many apologies for the delay in responding. I don’t want to rehash all the ideas that everybody is so familiar with, but just a few observations on the possibility of coming back to life My experiences are that (1) some vintages which...
by JasperMorris
January 21st, 2019, 8:36 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Premox'd White Burgs Turn Great? (per Jasper Morris)
Replies: 117
Views: 5336

Re: Premox'd White Burgs Turn Great? (per Jasper Morris)

hi all I am currently travelling in New Zealand with not much time available to compose a detailed post, but I will try to flesh something out as soon as I can. Its a really interesting field of discussion (albeit one that has been frequently covered as some posters have noted) and I am not offering...

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