Search found 1438 matches

by William Kelley
October 12th, 2019, 1:54 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What is your Champagne of the year?
Replies: 82
Views: 3212

Re: What is your Champagne of the year?

Old: a 1940s Krug Private Cuvée
Young: 2008 Egly-Ouriet

Some old runners-up:
1964 Henriot
1961 Gimonnet
1966 Lanson
1973 Bollinger RD
1988 Krug (though this should really be classed as a young runner-up)
1961 Dom Pérignon
by William Kelley
October 7th, 2019, 8:13 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Pierre Girardin : new kid on the block
Replies: 31
Views: 2441

Re: Pierre Girardin : new kid on the block

Visited last week and had a very good tasting. Will be reporting in detail in TWA, but the whites are made with foulage and quite firm pressing (both pneumatic and Vaslin), followed by élevage in more or less exclusively François Frères barrels (I saw a few from Chassin too), with lots of larger fo...
by William Kelley
October 7th, 2019, 6:54 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Pierre Girardin : new kid on the block
Replies: 31
Views: 2441

Re: Pierre Girardin : new kid on the block

Visited last week and had a very good tasting. Will be reporting in detail in TWA, but the whites are made with foulage and quite firm pressing (both pneumatic and Vaslin), followed by élevage in more or less exclusively François Frères barrels (I saw a few from Chassin too), with lots of larger for...
by William Kelley
October 5th, 2019, 4:00 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?
Replies: 11880
Views: 568883

Re: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?

1x 1955 La Tour Haut Brion

Quite excited about that, as '55 La Mission is one of my favorite clarets of all time.
by William Kelley
October 5th, 2019, 3:11 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2018 Beaujolais
Replies: 8
Views: 1254

Re: 2018 Beaujolais

Have opened a couple of '18s from Métras, Chermette and others over the last couple of weeks and it really is a very friendly vintage. As I wrote in my big report in TWA earlier in the year, the high yields of the vintage did a lot to mitigate the sort of imbalances that can be found in (for example...
by William Kelley
September 26th, 2019, 9:56 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Help with buying a magnum of Burgundy near Beaune
Replies: 7
Views: 513

Re: Help with buying a magnum of Burgundy near Beaune

The Athenaeum book store also has an excellent wine selection. The Grand Boutique du Vin off the avenue Charles de Gaulle a ways outside of town also has a great selection.
by William Kelley
September 21st, 2019, 11:12 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Burgundy 2019 report
Replies: 29
Views: 2967

Re: Burgundy 2019 report

What about the Ente's report of levels of 15.7 % Can Meursaults carry that in any year? Chardonnay seems to be much higher than Pinot Noir this year! Certainly fully 14% seems to be routine. Clusters and berries were tiny, with a very poor juice yield. But there is acidity, and lots of concentratio...
by William Kelley
September 21st, 2019, 11:10 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Burgundy 2019 report
Replies: 29
Views: 2967

Re: Burgundy 2019 report

Despite the crazy temperatures and drought conditions, the red wine chemistry is actually pretty classical. I'm making a couple of barrels of Chambolle-Musigny this year—the best way to understand the vintage—and picked on Thursday. Potential alcohol is around 13.5% with a pH of 3.2 before malolact...
by William Kelley
September 21st, 2019, 9:14 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Burgundy 2019 report
Replies: 29
Views: 2967

Re: Burgundy 2019 report

Despite the crazy temperatures and drought conditions, the red wine chemistry is actually pretty classical. I'm making a couple of barrels of Chambolle-Musigny this year—the best way to understand the vintage—and picked on Thursday. Potential alcohol is around 13.5% with a pH of 3.2 before malolacti...
by William Kelley
September 16th, 2019, 9:05 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Why is Vatan Clos la Neore so expensive?
Replies: 23
Views: 1795

Re: Why is Vatan Clos la Neore so expensive?

Steven Dilley wrote:
September 16th, 2019, 7:08 pm
Do they still make a red?
No, 2003 was the last vintage of red.
by William Kelley
September 15th, 2019, 8:56 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Any recs for lunch in or around Beaune?
Replies: 22
Views: 1159

Re: Any recs for lunch in or around Beaune?

La Superbe hasn't been mentioned and I enjoy it very much. I need to go back.
by William Kelley
September 15th, 2019, 5:31 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Wines for 25+ years of aging
Replies: 39
Views: 1796

Re: Wines for 25+ years of aging

Being born in 1989... The Wine Advocate How did you land a gig at TWA before your 30th birthday? Or do I really want to know the answer to that question? Robert Parker founded The Wine Advocate aged 31, Jancis Robinson became assistant editor of Wine & Spirits aged 25, and Hugh Johnson started writ...
by William Kelley
September 14th, 2019, 11:58 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Wines for 25+ years of aging
Replies: 39
Views: 1796

Re: Wines for 25+ years of aging

My one piece of advice would be to buy some age-worthy inexpensive wines as well as well as a few rare bottles. Being born in 1989, I regret that my parents didn't buy e.g. 10 cases of 1989 Olga Raffault, or Clape, or Tempier, or anything else that was cheap back then. Having some volume of great ma...
by William Kelley
September 14th, 2019, 11:53 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?
Replies: 11880
Views: 568883

Re: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?

An eclectic bunch of older stuff:

1x 1989 Yquem
1x 1970 Gloria magnum
4x 1971 Poulet Morgon
1x 1966 Callot Morgon
1x 1982 Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre
3x 1985 Clos du Marquis
1x 1959 Bouchard Savigny Lavières (magnum)
3x 1962 Fernand Morey Chassagne-Montrachet blanc
by William Kelley
September 14th, 2019, 8:35 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Will there ever be another vintage like 1992 White Burgundy?
Replies: 19
Views: 1518

Re: Will there ever be another vintage like 1992 White Burgundy?

Based on how the wines taste, I always assumed botrytis was quite widespread in 1992, but a number of producers have corrected me on that. Leflaive, for example, insist that there was essentially no botrytis in their 1992 Chevalier, though it smells very exotic. Given how the 2017 whites are showin...
by William Kelley
September 14th, 2019, 8:29 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Will there ever be another vintage like 1992 White Burgundy?
Replies: 19
Views: 1518

Re: Will there ever be another vintage like 1992 White Burgundy?

I always think of 92 as a fatter California-like vintage though they tightened up and lasted so much longer than I expected. Yet remarkably the pHs of the 1992s are actually very lively! Some numbers from the Leflaive Chevalier vertical I did earlier this year for context: 1993: 13.6% alcohol, pH 3...
by William Kelley
September 13th, 2019, 3:03 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Will there ever be another vintage like 1992 White Burgundy?
Replies: 19
Views: 1518

Re: Will there ever be another vintage like 1992 White Burgundy?

Based on how the wines taste, I always assumed botrytis was quite widespread in 1992, but a number of producers have corrected me on that. Leflaive, for example, insist that there was essentially no botrytis in their 1992 Chevalier, though it smells very exotic. Given how the 2017 whites are showing...
by William Kelley
September 13th, 2019, 2:59 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: For BAMA fans...
Replies: 50
Views: 2055

Re: For BAMA fans...

Just a little cold water here... I am a big, big fan of old school, traditional Bordeaux that new world wine lovers usually find austere, hard, dirty, thin, charmless, etc. However, I tried a 2000 BAMA and while I liked it and would be a buyer if substantially cheaper, I didn't think it merits its ...
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 11:09 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Tasting in Burgundy/Rhone
Replies: 113
Views: 3392

Re: Tasting in Burgundy/Rhone

Finally, even to the extent you cannot get into smaller growers, you can taste and buy wines from smaller producers in the Caveaus in various towns. The Caveau de Chassagne Montrachet is esp. good. http://www.caveaudechassagne.com/ This was unfortunately a disappointment for us when we visited in J...
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 7:59 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: For BAMA fans...
Replies: 50
Views: 2055

Re: For BAMA fans...

Agreed. Have a 1981 La Conseillante lined up for some time soon as well.
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 7:57 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?
Replies: 42
Views: 2200

Re: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?

Tom G l a s g o w wrote:
September 12th, 2019, 7:41 pm
I think CSW had an offer for 1998 Chamonard. It may be hard to source older Beaujolais in volume for import.
They late release! Offering 1997s and 1999s at the moment along with newer vintages.
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 7:23 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?
Replies: 42
Views: 2200

Re: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?

The trick with aging Beaujolais is not to drink it young. :) Even among the AFWE for lack of a better term, including many friends, they don’t let their Beaujolais age. Or don’t want to. Should we create a poll? Who has aged Beaujolais more than 20 years after vintage? My oldest are just getting th...
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 7:20 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?
Replies: 42
Views: 2200

Re: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?

If you've never met and talked to Eric Texier you should make the trek down to Charnay. He's literally down the street from John-Paul Brun and has made a study of this. His wines are great too. I am a fan of Eric's wines and have long wanted to meet him. I need to get my colleague Luis to introduce...
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 6:33 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: For BAMA fans...
Replies: 50
Views: 2055

Re: For BAMA fans...

Old school Medoc more than Margaux, IMHO. Definitely Bordeaux. Nothing else. What else could it be? For me, it's very much Margaux. It's just the sort of Margaux that you read about in old books—floral, perfumed, elegant, fine-boned but concentrated and flavorful—rather than what one typically tast...
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 5:34 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?
Replies: 42
Views: 2200

Re: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?

Your next Beaujolais epiphanies could be with 20-30 year old bottles. That would take this whole thing to another level. Too true! I am planning to write an article on aged Beaujolais, and going into some depth on Beaujolais' 20th-century history, looking at the evolution of viticulture, winemaking...
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 12:07 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?
Replies: 42
Views: 2200

Re: Beaujolais, where have you been my whole life?

Your next Beaujolais epiphanies could be with 20-30 year old bottles. That would take this whole thing to another level. Too true! I am planning to write an article on aged Beaujolais, and going into some depth on Beaujolais' 20th-century history, looking at the evolution of viticulture, winemaking...
by William Kelley
September 12th, 2019, 12:01 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: I Went Back to WA.
Replies: 15
Views: 1629

Re: I Went Back to WA.

Thanks for all the kind words, folks, it is very warmly appreciated indeed!
by William Kelley
September 11th, 2019, 9:18 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.
Replies: 55
Views: 3256

Re: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.

releasing the 09 here now I believe. Personally I'm on the 90's vintages and 2001. That's right, they held back the 09 a bit longer for the US, releasing this year to coincide with the Martine's anniversary. Funny - so it doesn´t only depend on the ideas of winemakers, but also on anniversaries of ...
by William Kelley
September 11th, 2019, 1:15 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.
Replies: 55
Views: 3256

Re: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.

Didn't know there was a set plan for Rayas. Good to know the pain. How about the 2010 ? 2010 is already released (I think this spring) - don´t know if everywhere. But my warning is: it won´t be fully mature before 2025-2028 ... better drink 2008, 2006, 2004 and older now ... However I don´t underst...
by William Kelley
September 9th, 2019, 1:52 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.
Replies: 55
Views: 3256

Re: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.

I think it's a good thing. I want wineries to continue to produce age worthy wines, as the complexity and texture and sapid nuance that comes with age cannot be attained any other way, but fewer and fewer people have cellars —to say nothing of the habit of delayed gratification. Either wines will i...
by William Kelley
September 9th, 2019, 1:20 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard
Replies: 12
Views: 974

Re: TN: 2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard

I opened my first bottle of 2013 Alpine Pinot Noir the other day, somewhat impulsively, and had a similarly fulfilling experience! Truly a beautiful showing.
by William Kelley
September 9th, 2019, 12:46 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?
Replies: 11880
Views: 568883

Re: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?

A few older Californians:

1979 Kalin Cellars Pinot Noir Cuvée D
1978 Kalin Cellars Zinfandel
2x 2000 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon
2x 1974 Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon
by William Kelley
September 9th, 2019, 9:36 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.
Replies: 55
Views: 3256

Re: Postponed releases - RAYAS, OGIER, MUGNIER etc.

I think it's a good thing. I want wineries to continue to produce age worthy wines, as the complexity and texture and sapid nuance that comes with age cannot be attained any other way, but fewer and fewer people have cellars—to say nothing of the habit of delayed gratification. Either wines will ine...
by William Kelley
September 9th, 2019, 9:25 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: For BAMA fans...
Replies: 50
Views: 2055

Re: For BAMA fans...

Nice!
by William Kelley
September 9th, 2019, 9:23 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 1995 Verget Chablis Valmur & 2001 Mondavi Cab
Replies: 6
Views: 331

Re: TN: 1995 Verget Chablis Valmur & 2001 Mondavi Cab

From my cellar, the 1995 Valmur is still good! The source of the grapes was, I believe, the Robin family, who have enviable old vine holdings in Valmur and Les Clos. There is also a bottling of so-called "Valmur Sud" in 1995, which is rumored to be 50:50 Valmur - Les Clos, but which had to be sold a...
by William Kelley
September 8th, 2019, 2:26 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Comparing the St-Jacques vineyards
Replies: 12
Views: 1432

Re: Comparing the St-Jacques vineyards

Mark C Johnson wrote:
September 8th, 2019, 1:24 pm
William, what do you mean by "filigree structure"?

mtia
Just that the tannins tend to be quite fine and acids quite high, so the wines are generally structurally delicate and precise. The opposite of a structurally muscular, chunky, imposing wine.
by William Kelley
September 8th, 2019, 1:12 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: The Best California Chardonnay That You've Had In The Last 5 Years?
Replies: 154
Views: 8777

Re: The Best California Chardonnay That You've Had In The Last 5 Years?

I tend to get most excited about older wines these days, as my day job has me over-exposed to current releases, so my vote would go to:

1995 Kalin Cellars CH
1995 Kalin Cellars LV
1980 Chalone Reserve
by William Kelley
September 8th, 2019, 9:32 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Tasting in Burgundy/Rhone
Replies: 113
Views: 3392

Re: Tasting in Burgundy/Rhone

Some advice: - avoid trying to contact producers during the vacation and harvest: so wait until mid-October to start requesting appointments - if you speak some French, take the time to write in French - don't plan too many tastings a day: professionally, I sometimes do as many as five or six in a d...
by William Kelley
September 7th, 2019, 5:33 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Comparing the St-Jacques vineyards
Replies: 12
Views: 1432

Re: Comparing the St-Jacques vineyards

Also a big fan of Estournelles! Cool and with thin soils, the wines can be ethereal and perfumed, with lovely filigree structure. In LSJ the soils are deeper and it's warmer, south-exposed but with a cooling evening breeze down the Combe. LSJ is highly morcellated and there are lots of tiny parcels....
by William Kelley
September 4th, 2019, 9:54 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Underrated burgundy vintages
Replies: 76
Views: 3563

Re: Underrated burgundy vintages

1997 whites in Chablis and the Mâconnais have given me great drinking this year, and Vincent Dauvissat was waxing lyrical about the harvest. Huh. I had my last bottles of 97 Dauvissat Forest and Clos this year, and felt that both of them were past best. Past bottles have been better than the vintag...
by William Kelley
September 3rd, 2019, 8:48 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Underrated burgundy vintages
Replies: 76
Views: 3563

Re: Underrated burgundy vintages

1997 whites in Chablis and the Mâconnais have given me great drinking this year, and Vincent Dauvissat was waxing lyrical about the harvest. But given pricing on the US retail market, it is hard to see any Burgundy vintage as actively "underrated" these days. Red 2013s would get my vote though, if I...
by William Kelley
September 2nd, 2019, 6:07 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Which Champagne are you drinking?
Replies: 800
Views: 52316

Re: Which Champagne are you drinking?

Michel Fallon Ozanne dg. May 2014. Vinous, concentrated and very Selosse-like, with a long and sapid finish. Still fresh and lively after five years on cork.
by William Kelley
August 30th, 2019, 6:57 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: The Brian Devine Cellar
Replies: 43
Views: 3531

Re: The Brian Devine Cellar

Makes one wonder, what exactly is wrong with the 2005 vintage?
by William Kelley
August 28th, 2019, 2:50 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: A night of old/young Burgundy, unicorn N. Rhones but WOTN was the natural wine from Jura
Replies: 15
Views: 1953

Re: A night of old/young Burgundy, unicorn N. Rhones but WOTN was the natural wine from Jura

Great notes. Interesting to see your report on the 2009 Criots. I passed up an opportunity to drink it earlier this year in favor of what turned out to be quite a boring 1999 Leflaive Bâtard, and I have been kicking myself ever since. Oh, and for "probably the best white wine being made in Burgundy...
by William Kelley
August 28th, 2019, 2:48 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Herbert, the Suckling Pig, and 1977 Cabernets.
Replies: 25
Views: 1345

Re: Herbert, the Suckling Pig, and 1977 Cabernets.

Thanks for the notes! Did Philip Togni make the 1977 Chapellet? Cheers, Hal No. Should have been Joe Cafaro's last vintage. Philip Togni was at Cuvaison from 1974 onwards until he opened up his own winery. It is my understanding that Tony Soter made the 1977 Chappellet. I thought Tony Soter made on...
by William Kelley
August 28th, 2019, 2:47 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Favorite Vintners in Savoy?
Replies: 22
Views: 904

Re: Favorite Vintners in Savoy?

I love both Curtet and Ardoisières!
by William Kelley
August 27th, 2019, 4:07 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: A night of old/young Burgundy, unicorn N. Rhones but WOTN was the natural wine from Jura
Replies: 15
Views: 1953

Re: A night of old/young Burgundy, unicorn N. Rhones but WOTN was the natural wine from Jura

Great notes. Interesting to see your report on the 2009 Criots. I passed up an opportunity to drink it earlier this year in favor of what turned out to be quite a boring 1999 Leflaive Bâtard, and I have been kicking myself ever since. Oh, and for "probably the best white wine being made in Burgundy"...
by William Kelley
August 27th, 2019, 1:38 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Calon Segur 1996
Replies: 19
Views: 1754

Re: Calon Segur 1996

The 1995 is finally starting to unwind, too. Had a bottle last week. Will be interesting to do the two side-by-side in another five or six years.
by William Kelley
August 27th, 2019, 1:35 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers
Replies: 46
Views: 1987

Re: Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers

Give Cayron another try. The last two vintages have been some of my favorite wines. The most herbes de Provence/garrigue I've ever encountered. Cayron '15 last week was pretty liqueured and super-ripe in style, with nothing that could be described as garrigue. I drank cases of the 1998 as a student...
by William Kelley
August 25th, 2019, 5:40 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Forman x Thorevilos
Replies: 23
Views: 2212

Re: Forman x Thorevilos

Ric (not Eric) has often included Thorevilos fruit in his Cabernet over the years. I thought he co-owned it as well as co-managing it (as is quoted here) with David Abreu. I don't think his estate vineyard loses anything by comparison, though.

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