TN: 2009 Family Winemakers Annual Tasting - Report on 222 wines tasted

WINE TALK
1

2009 FAMILY WINEMAKERS ANNUAL TASTING - Fort Mason, San Francisco, California (8/23/2009-8/24/2009)


photo by Stephen Timko

I always look forward to this event, both for the opportunity to try so many wines of producers I like and those that are new to me, as well as the opportunity to see friends in the wine business who come to town for this every year. This was a particularly satisfying tasting for me, as I felt I did a better job than usual of focusing on new producers I’d heard good things about, or who have winemakers of interest, and revisiting old favorites. As a result, the quality of most everything I tasted was good to excellent, and I tasted no lineup that I would consider “drek,” as has been the case when I’ve been a little less focused in my tasting plan in prior years. Of course, despite tasting for over 9 hours in two days, there were still producers that I hoped to get to, but didn’t, and old favorites that I had to miss. I did make it to 57 producers and tasted 222 wines. Particular standouts among the newer producers this year, for me, were Cabot Vineyards, Demetria Estate, Frostwatch Vineyard, Gemstone, Jemrose Vineyard, Krupp Brothers, Lone Madrone and Parallel Wines. Vintage-wise, the '07s continue to impress as powerful wines that will be great with a few years or more of age, '06s are showing better than they did a year ago, and the '08s I tried were very promising.
Amapola Creek
Richard Arrowood’s role as owner and co-winemaker in this project that started in '05 is what drew me to try these wines. Good efforts both.

  • 2006 Amapola Creek Zinfandel Monte Rosso - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (8/24/2009)
    Tight berry nose; silky, concentrated but elegant tart berry and boysenberry palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2005 Amapola Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (8/24/2009)
    Bright cassis and cedar nose; cassis, blue fruit, blue plum palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)

Arcadian
This was a good lineup overall, with the '05 Sleepy Hollow showing particularly well.

  • 2006 Arcadian Chardonnay Dierberg Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (8/23/2009)
    Lovely lemon nose with a flowery touch; ripe lemon, vanilla, rounded palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2005 Arcadian Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (8/23/2009)
    Deep cherry nose; lovely, tart cherry, raspberry, tangy and complex palate; medium finish (93 pts.)
  • 2005 Arcadian Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (8/23/2009)
    Brett on nose; brett, tart cherry palate with good acidity; medium finish (90 pts.)
  • 2005 Arcadian Pinot Noir Fiddlestix - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills (8/23/2009)
    Deep black cherry, charcoal nose; tart cherry, mineral palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2004 Arcadian Syrah Westerly Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (8/23/2009)
    Black fruit and herbal nose; tart black fruit, herbal palate; medium finish (91 pts.)

Audelssa
I’ve been a fan of Audelssa, and its talented winemaker Erich Bradley, for a few years. These showed well as usual.

Beau Vigne
I was interested in these as Dave Phinney is the winemaker. I liked the two Beau Vigne Cabs.

Big Basin
I usually try to taste these wines when they’re present, as the Syrahs are very good. The '07 Fairview Ranch should be another powerhouse Syrah.

Cabot
John Cabot

photo by Stephen Timko

This was a delightful new producer, recommended by Alan and people who had attend the San Diego FW event. This is unusual winemaking that is producing very tasty results.

  • 2006 Cabot Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, North Coast, Humboldt County (8/23/2009)
    Deep boysenberry, caramel, berry nose; unusual, touch of smoked pork, savory, charcoal palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Cabot Vineyards Zinfandel Tributary - USA, California, North Coast, Humboldt County (8/23/2009)
    Smoky, savory nose; tasty, smoky, tart berry palate with depth; medium-plus finish (20% Syrah) (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Cabot Vineyards Syrah Kimberly’s - USA, California, North Coast, Humboldt County (8/23/2009)
    Honeybaked ham nose; tasty, smoky, pork, meaty palate with a touch of pepper; medium finish 92+ pts. (w/ 10% Viognier; 33% new Hungarian oak) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Cabot Vineyards Syrah Aria’s - USA, California, North Coast, Humboldt County (8/23/2009)
    Pepper and tart black fruit nose; tart black fruit, pepper palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Cabot Vineyards Syrah - USA, California, North Coast, Humboldt County (8/23/2009)
    Smoky, savory, pan drippings nose; smoky, savory, meaty palate with a touch of green peppercorn; medium finish (100% Syrah; neutral oak) (93 pts.)

Calera
This was a good opportunity to retaste the '06s, and the Ryan is showing particularly well. The sweet wine was a treat.

  • 2006 Calera Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Mount Harlan (8/24/2009)
    Deep cherry, roses nose; tasty, cherry, elegant, tart red fruit, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Calera Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Mount Harlan (8/24/2009)
    Roses, tart cherry nose; roses, mineral, tart cherry palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (planted in '98) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Calera Pinot Noir Reed - USA, California, Central Coast, Mount Harlan (8/24/2009)
    Herbal, tart red fruit nose; green notes, tart red fruit; medium-plus finish (100% whole cluster) (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Calera Viognier Dessert - USA, California, Central Coast, Mount Harlan (8/24/2009)
    From 375 ml - apricot and mineral nose; apricot, cream, mineral palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)

Carrefour
I tasted these on someone’s recommendation, and was favorably impressed. The Cab was quite good.

  • 2006 Carrefour Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Ripe grapefruit, mineral nose; soft grapefruit palate with good acidity; medium finish (stainless steel fermented) (91 pts.)
  • 2005 Carrefour Vineyards Pinot Noir Carneros - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros (8/24/2009)
    Roses, rosehips and mineral nose; tart red fruit and rosehips palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (Vyd planted in '86 & '87; 50% new French oak) (91 pts.)
  • 2005 Carrefour Vineyards Merlot Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Nice plum, black fruit, mineral nose; nice berry, tart plum, black fruit palate with sweet, firm tannins; medium finish (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Carrefour Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Tight, tart cherry nose; tight, soft, velvety textured red fruit palate with firm, sweet tannins; medium finish (88 pts.)
  • 2005 Carrefour Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Black fruit, espresso nose; poised tart black fruit, espresso and charcoal palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot) (92 pts.)

Cavus
Another one where Dave Phinney is the winemaker, but I was underwhelmed by the oaked up result.

  • 2005 Cavus Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District (8/24/2009)
    Deep chocolate, black fruit nose; odd black fruit, oak palate, kind of a mess; medium finish (94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc) (83 pts.)

Chasseur
I love Chasseur Chards and Pinots, and it was great to retaste the '06s and try the '07s.

  • 2006 Chasseur Chardonnay Sonoma County - USA, California, Sonoma County (8/23/2009)
    Floaty lemon chiffon and ripe lemon nose; lemon, vanilla palate; medium finish (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Chasseur Chardonnay Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/23/2009)
    Focused lime, lemon nose; solid, tart citrus, lime and mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Chasseur Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8/23/2009)
    Rich cherry, berry nose; nice tart cherry, cranberry palate with good acidity; medium finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Chasseur Pinot Noir Sonoma County - USA, California, Sonoma County (8/23/2009)
    Nice, deep cherry, berry nose; tart cherry palate, tight yet but very good; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Chasseur Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/23/2009)
    Deep tart cherry, mineral nose with a green note; nice tart cherry palate with depth; medium finish (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Chasseur Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/23/2009)
    A little horsey, with tart cherry on nose; tasty, tight, tart cherry and black cherry palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)

Clos Pepe
Although I expected to see Wes Hagen here, it was a treat to see instead owner Steve Pepe again, after many, many years. We worked together at the same law firm in L.A. a zillion years ago, from which he retired as an entertainment law partner.

  • 2006 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills (8/23/2009)
    Nice tart cherry nose with depth; tart cherry palate with green notes and good grip; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills (8/23/2009)
    Lovely tart cherry nose; tight, tart cherry, cranberry palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)

Darms Lane
A micro producer I tried on another recommendation from the earlier FW, and was impressed.

  • 2005 Darms Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Bon Passe Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Lovely berry, chocolate nose; tasty, rich, berry and chocolate palate; medium-plus finish (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, with a little Cab Franc and Petit Verdot; vineyard planted in '02; 75% American oak, 25% Hungarian) (92 pts.)

Dashe
I have friends who are big fans of Dashe, and I appreciate the chances Mike takes. The results at this tasting didn’t bowl me over though.

Deerfield Ranch
A friend in Sonoma who has a very good palate has raved about this producer over the last few years. It was a good lineup overall.

Demetria
This was a new producer to me, and I was particularly impressed by the Cuvee Constantine.

  • 2006 Demetria Cuvée Papou - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (8/24/2009)
    Lovely floral, apricot, yellow fruit nose; tart yellow fruit, peach, floral palate; medium finish (33% Marsanne, 24$ Grenache Blanc, 24% Viognier, 19% Roussanne) (88 pts.)
  • 2006 Demetria Pinot Noir Cuvée Sandra - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills (8/24/2009)
    Nice roses and ripe cherry nose; tasty, ripe cherry, black cherry and pomegranate palate; medium finish (3 clones but mainly Pommard; 20 mos in French oak, only 20% new) (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Demetria Syrah North Slope - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (8/24/2009)
    Earthy, tart black fruit, charcoal, pepper nose; tasty, tart black fruit, charcoal palate with green notes; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
  • 2006 Demetria Cuvée Constantine - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (8/24/2009)
    Aromatic black fruit, charcoal, blackberry and chocolate nose; taty, rich but complex, tart black fruit, blackberry, mineral, chocolate powder palate; medium-plus finish (44% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre, 1% Viognier) (93 pts.)

Donum/Robert Stemmler
These were good, solid Chards and Pinots.

Esterlina
I like what the Sterling Family does very much. The '06 and '07 estate Pinots were very good as usual.

Frostwatch
Owner and winemaker Brett Raven was on hand to explain what he’s doing with this project, which started in '02. Very nice wines.

  • 2007 Frostwatch Kismet - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/24/2009)
    Light, dry peach nose; tart peach, lemon grass palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Chardonnay) (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Frostwatch Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/24/2009)
    Light apple, ripe citrus nose; tasty, poised, ripe lime, apple palate with balance; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (indigenous yeast; 6 mos. malo; 43% new French oak) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Frostwatch Merlot - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/24/2009)
    Focused plum nose; tasty, ripe and tart plum palate with depth; medium finish 92+ pts. (86% Merlot, 14% Napa Cabernet) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Frostwatch Zinfandel - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/24/2009)
    Tart berry, boysenberry nose; tight, tart berry, boysenberry palate; medium finish (91 pts.)

Gemstone
I happened to watch the re-airing of the “In Wine Country” segment on this producer a day or so before this tasting. The flagship wine was quite good. Philippe Melka is the winemaker.

  • 2006 Gemstone Facets - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Nice ripe berry, plum and black fruit nose; deep black fruit, berry palate, tight yet; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 7% Cabernet Franc) (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Gemstone - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville (8/24/2009)
    Deep, intriguing blackberry, berry and plum nose; blackberry, berry and plum palate with depth and purity; medium-plus finish (98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot) (93 pts.)

Grassi
A respectable effort by winemaker Peter Franus.

  • 2006 Grassi Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Big berry, eucalyptus, mint, cassis nose; big, a little aggressive, tart cassis, berry, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot; 60% new French oak) (90 pts.)

Indigene Cellars
owner/winemaker Raymond Smith

Raymond Smith has been a bottler for 20 or more years. I don’t care for the label artwork (a feeling that I and a couple others at the table shared with Raymond) but he’s doing some interesting blends and trying for a very different kind of Syrah. I appreciate his efforts to do something new.

  • 2007 Indigene Cellars Philanthropist - USA, California, Central Coast (8/24/2009)
    High pitched berry nose; berry, blackberry palate; medium finish (co-fermented Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot) (90 pts.)
  • 2004 Indigene Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (8/24/2009)
    Nice berry, cassis nose; cassis, berry palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2006 Indigene Cellars Syrah Parenthesis - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (8/24/2009)
    Black fruit, berry, white pepper nose; different from your usual Cali Syrah, tart plum, berry palate, with depth, needs to settle out though; medium-plus finish (Estrella River clone) (89 pts.)
  • 2008 Indigene Cellars Riesling I=MB - USA, California, Central Coast (8/24/2009)
    Ripe peach, stone fruit nose; tasty, ripe stone fruit, mineral palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish (88 pts.)

JC Cellars
It’s always great to see Jeff, who always seems to be enjoying himself immensely, whatever he’s doing. A very tasty lineup, and a treat to try the “Condrieu” he made with his buddy Francois Villard.

Jemrose
A couple of friends recommended this new producer, whose winemaker is the esteemed Michael Browne, and I’ve tried their fruit in Shane’s Syrahs, among others. I thought this was one of the most impressive lineups of the tasting, and definitely a producer to watch for. I loved the Cardiac Hill Syrah and the Cab/Merlot blend.

  • 2008 Jemrose Viognier Egret Pond - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/23/2009)
    Tart white fruit and floral nose; tart peach palate with good acidity; medium finish 91+ pts. (stainless steel fermented) (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Jemrose Syrah Cardiac Hill Bennett Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/23/2009)
    Nice black fruit, lifted nose; tasty black fruit, sprightly, with good acidity; medium-plus finish (30% whole cluster; 5 clones; new oak) (93 pts.)
  • 2007 Jemrose Grenache Foggy Knoll - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/23/2009)
    Rich berry nose with a hint of roses; tasty, tart berry, charcoal palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (20% new oak; Tablas Creek clone) (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Jemrose Gloria’s Gem - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/23/2009)
    Big cassis, berry nose; poised, rich cassis, berry palate, tight yet but full of stuffing; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (60% Syrah, 40% Merlot) (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Jemrose Viognier Late Harvest - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley (8/23/2009)
    Pear, green apple, floral nose; tart peach, pear, apricot and apple palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (just bottled) (91 pts.)

Jordan
Very good Cali Cab, as usual.

Justin
It had been a few years since I tasted through Justin’s lineup, so I very much enjoyed doing so at this tasting. I think the Tempranillo is one of the best versions of that varietal in the country, and I loved the Isosceles as usual. The Savant is a new blend that was quite good.

  • 2008 Justin Vineyard Chardonnay - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Vanilla, butter, lemon nose; nice tart lemon, mineral palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Justin Vineyard Tempranillo Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Nice tart berry, boysenberry nose; smooth berry and blackberry palate; medium finish (among the best of the few dozen domestic Tempranillos I’ve tried) (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Justin Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Nice, dusty currant, cedar nose; cassis, oak palate with good acidity; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Justin Vineyard Justification - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Nice black fruit, berry and blackberry nose; soft, berry, black fruit palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot) (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Justin Vineyard Savant - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Lovely berry, black fruit nose; tasty, deep, black fruit, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (62% Syrah, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Justin Vineyard Isosceles - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Plus berry and plum nose; poised, tight, cassis and berry palate; medium-plus finish (86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot) (93 pts.)
  • 2007 Justin Vineyard Obtuse (Traditional) - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Deep fig, black fruit nose; youthful, fig, black fruit palate; long finish (91 pts.)

Kenneth Volk
I went here on a couple of recommendations, and the Malvasia was probably the best of that varietal I’ve had from California, and the Pinots were all strong.

Klinker Brick
This was another recommendation, but I was underwhelmed.

  • 2007 Klinker Brick Syrah Farráh - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi (8/23/2009)
    Black fruit, clove nose; oaky, chocolatey, black fruit, berry palate, with some residual sugar; medium finish (84 pts.)
  • 2006 Klinker Brick Zinfandel Old Ghost - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi (8/23/2009)
    Big tart berry nose; tart berry, black fruit, mineral and charcoal palate with some complexity and depth; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (from 96 yr old vines) (90 pts.)

Krupp Brothers
These were exciting wines I tasted on my friend John’s recommendation. From the blends to the packaging, there’s a strong and confident point of view here.

L’Angevin/Peirson Meyer
This was a good lineup, but I was getting a little confused as to which was L’Angevin and which was Peirson Meyer, and why the distinction.

L’Aventure
Wonderful wines as usual.

  • 2007 L’Aventure Côte-à-Côte Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Big berry, boysenberry nose; tight boysenberry, blue fruit, plum palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2007 L’Aventure Estate Cuvée - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/23/2009)
    Rich, deep berry, plum nose with an herbal note; berry, plum, graphite palate; long finish (93 pts.)

La Fenêtre
A new producer to me, I quite enjoyed these.

La Sirena
Remi Barrett

These were impressive wines–the Moscato Azul has really grown on me since I last tried it. The estate Syrah is particularly good. And what a treat to meet Bo and Heidi’s daughter Remi!

  • 2007 La Sirena Moscato Azul - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Lovely, big Muscat, orange blossom nose; ripe nectarine, orange blossom palate with good acidity; medium finish (92 pts.)
  • 2006 La Sirena Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (8/24/2009)
    Ripe berry, plum nose; tasty, ripe berry, blackberry palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2005 La Sirena Syrah - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Deep berry, blackberry nose; tasty, tart blackberry, black fruit palate, still very tight; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
  • 2005 La Sirena Syrah Barretts Vineyard Syrah Barretts Vineyard - USA, California (8/24/2009)
    Ethereal blackberry, berry, lavender nose; tasty, tight, tart blackberry, berry palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
  • 2006 La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Deep black fruit, licorice nose; licorice, black fruit, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc; 100% French oak) (91 pts.)

Lagier Meredith
I adore Carole Meredith, and, fortunately, I love her Syrahs as well. I didn’t taste through the older Syrahs she had at this tasting, as I get a chance to try those out of my own stash fairly regularly. The '07 Syrah is another unique individual, and quite stunning. The joint venture Zin she and Stephen made with their neighbor was my favorite Zin of the tasting.

  • 2007 Lagier Meredith Syrah - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder (8/24/2009)
    Great aromatics, with blue fruit, black fruit, berries and floral nose; blue fruit, honeycomb, sage, berry, blackberry palate, surprisingly accessible now but lots there; medium-plus finish (for Sept. '09 release) (94 pts.)
  • 2007 Lagier Meredith Pott Zinfandel Chester’s Anvil - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder (8/24/2009)
    Evocative berry, dreid berry nose; dried berry, berry, chocolate palate with depth; medium-plus finish (best Zin I tasted at '09 Family Winemakers) (93 pts.)

Lail
Erin Lail

Very good wines from Lail.

  • 2008 Lail Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Blueprint - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville (8/24/2009)
    Tart grapefruit, mineral nose; tangy, tart grapefruit, mineral, lemon grass palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (stainless steel fermented) (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Lail Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Blueprint - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Poised plum, cassis nose; tasty, tart plum, cassis palate with balance; medium finish (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Lail Vineyards J. Daniel Cuvée - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Intriguing cassis, eucalyptus, berry nose; tasty, rich but elegant plum, black fruit, berry, cassis palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.)

Littorai
It’s always worth tasting these wines. The best for me of this particular lineup was the '07 Thieriot Chard.

  • 2007 Littorai Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8/23/2009)
    Green apple, citrus nose; tasty, poised, citrus, mineral palate; medium finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Littorai Chardonnay Thieriot Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8/23/2009)
    Minerally, tart lemon, citrus nose; tasty, citrus, lemon, mineral palate with good balance; medium finish (93 pts.)
  • 2008 Littorai Pinot Noir Les Larmes - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (8/23/2009)
    Tart red fruit, mineral nose; cherry, cranberry, mineral palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (blend of 4 vineyards) (91 pts.)
  • 2008 Littorai Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8/23/2009)
    Cherry, sandalwood nose; light bodied, cherry palate; short-medium finish (89 pts.)
  • 2007 Littorai Pinot Noir Mays Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/23/2009)
    Nice roses and floral nose; tasty, tart red fruit and mineral palate; medium finish (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Littorai Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (8/23/2009)
    Roses, tart red fruit nose; tart red fruit, tight yet, with good grip; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Littorai Pinot Noir The Haven - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8/23/2009)
    Intriguing tart red fruit nose with green notes; tart cherry palate with a touch of gree; medium finish (92 pts.)

Lone Madrone
Marci Collins

This is the project of Neil Collins, Tablas Creek’s longtime winemaker, with his sister Jackie Meisinger. It was nice to see Neil’s wife Marci here, as we’d had dinner in L.A. several years ago and I haven’t seen her since. I really enjoyed these unusual wines, especially the Zin/Petite Sirah blend and the yummy Viognier sweetie.

  • 2008 Lone Madrone La Mezcla Paso Robles - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Ripe lemon, sweet herbal nose; light ripe grapefruit palate with cut and balance; medium finish (blend of Grenache Blanc and Albarino) (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Lone Madrone Roussanne Points West Paso Robles - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Nice lime cream and yellow fruit nose; ripe lime, peach, white fruit palate; medium-plus finish (100% Roussanne) (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Lone Madrone “Old Hat” Osgood Family Vineyard Paso Robles - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Deep, evocative, berry, black fruit nose; tasty, black fruit, charcoal, pepper palate; long finish (78% Zinfandel, 22% Petite Sirah) (93 pts.)
  • 2005 Lone Madrone Tannat Paso Robles - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Deep, black fruit, berry nose; deep black fruit, charcoal, graphite palate with depth; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Lone Madrone Viognier Sweet Cheeks - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Killer floral, apricot nose; poised, tart, sweet apricot, backed clementine, floral palate; long finish (100% Viognier, not late harvest but dried, vin de paille style) (93 pts.)

Mahoney
Winemaker Ken Foster

Francis Mahoney has been growing great Pinot forever. Ken Foster seems to be doing an excellent job with the fruit, and I enjoyed the more unusual varietals as well, especially the excellent Albarino, certainly one of the very best from California that I’ve tried.

Martinelli
These were pretty good, but I expected more.

Navarro
Navarro is one of my favorite places to visit in Anderson Valley, and I hadn’t done the lineup in at least a couple years. It was nice to be reminded of the terrific Gewurtztraminer, which I think is the best that is produced domestically. I also really enjoyed the Riesling sweetie.

Orentano
Not a recommendation from anyone, just a Russian River Pinot producer that wasn’t familiar to me. Nothing special.

  • 2005 Orentano Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/24/2009)
    Deep black cherry, cola nose; black cherry, RC cola palate; medium finish (87 pts.)
  • 2007 Orentano Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/24/2009)
    Black cherry, berry nose; berry, black cherry, cola palate; medium finish 87+ pts. (87 pts.)
  • 2006 Orentano Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/24/2009)
    Black cherry, berry, herbal nose; black cherry, berry, herbal palate; medium finish (88 pts.)
  • 2004 Orentano Pinot Noir Reserve - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/24/2009)
    Berry, black fruit nose; oak, berry palate; medium finish (84 pts.)

Orin Swift
David Phinney must be one of the best young winemakers in California in terms of marketing and packaging, and being attuned to what consumers want. There was a mob scene around the table during the public portion of the tasting on Sunday, so I waited until Monday to taste these. The Mercury Head continues to be a very respectable Cab, and I think the Prisoner is better than prior incarnations I’ve tasted. You’ve gotta love the packaging though. :wink:

  • 2008 Orin Swift Veladora Tofanelli Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Grassy lemon grass nose; tart lemon, grapefruit palate; medium finish (mainly Sauv Blanc, with some Semillon) (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Orin Swift Zinfandel Saldo - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (8/24/2009)
    Deep berry, raisin nose; nice tart berry, raisin palate; medium-plus finish (85% Zin, 10% Syrah, 5% Petite Sirah; cool Dymo label maker retro label) (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Orin Swift The Prisoner - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Tart berry, plum nose; ripe plum, berry, black fruit palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2006 Orin Swift Papillon - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Nice blackberry, black fruit nose; tasty black fruit, blackberry, berry and tar palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Orin Swift Cabernet Sauvignon Mercury Head - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Pure cassis, berry nose; rich but poised tart black fruit, tart berry palate with a touch of eucalyptus; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)

Outpost
Daniel

This was a great lineup. The Cabernet is terrific and the Petite Sirah is stunning. (Daniel’s not bad looking either. :wink: )

  • 2007 Outpost Grenache - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain (8/24/2009)
    Nice black fruit, charcoal nose; tasty, black fruit, charcoal palate with structure; medium finish (50% whole cluster) (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Outpost Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain (8/24/2009)
    Raisin, currant, berry nose; god raisin and berry palate with structure; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Outpost Cabernet Sauvignon True Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain (8/24/2009)
    Nice, rich, cassis nose; berry, cassis and espresso palate with purity of fruit; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc, 2.5% Merlot; 100% new French oak) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Outpost Petite Sirah The Other - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain (8/24/2009)
    Deep black fruit, blackberry nose; tasty, tight but good blackberry, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)

Pahlmeyer
Solid results, as usual.

  • 2006 Pahlmeyer Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8/24/2009)
    From magnum - berry and oak nose; tart cherry, oak palate; medium finish (89 pts.)
  • 2005 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Herbal, plum nose; plum, espresso palate; medium finish (91 pts.)

Paloma
The Richards have been at every Family Winemakers I’ve attended, I believe, so it was painful to see Barbara there without her recently departed husband, but it was also good to see her and how strong she seems despite the terrible loss.

  • 2007 Paloma Merlot - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (8/23/2009)
    Lovely plum, black fruit, red plum nose; tart plum, berry palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (pre-release) (91 pts.)

Parallel
Philippe Melka is the winemaker here, which is what drew me to try the wines. I was impressed by the Cabs.

  • 2007 Parallel Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Ripe citrus, oak nose; ripe lemon, oak palate; medium finish (only 1 of the 5 barrels went through malolactic) (88 pts.)
  • 2006 Parallel Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Nice berry, plum nose; tasty, berry, plum palate; medium finish (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc; 18 mos. in oak, 40% new) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Parallel Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Deep berry, black fruit nose; coffee, black fruit, berry palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)

Pierce Ranch
I had recently tasted the Pierce Ranch lineup at a domestic Spanish and Portugese varietal tasting, and been very impressed. I think they’re doing the best job with Portugese varietals of anyone in the country. I just quickly checked in on the Cosecheiro before continuing with my must-do list.

Pisoni
I beelined for Pisoni as my first wines of the tasting, since the Pisoni fruit is very special, and because Jeff just keeps growing enormously as a winemaker (I love what he did for Baton Wines last year). The '07 Pisoni Pisoni is a beautiful powerhouse, and was a great way to kickoff another FW.

  • 2007 Lucia Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (8/23/2009)
    Ripe peach, melon nose; nice ripe pineapple, lemon palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Pisoni Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (8/23/2009)
    Lovely cherry, black cherry, berry nose; tasty cranberry, tart red fruit palate, tight yet; medium finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Pisoni Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (8/23/2009)
    Beautiful berry, raspberry nose; tight but very tasty raspberry, cherry palate with pure fruit, needs a few years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)

Pride
I didn’t try the whole lineup, as I was up at Pride a few months ago. I did taste both the the Merlot and Cab Franc, though, on a friend’s recommendation, and I think there’s been improvement in both those varietals there.

Ramey
Solid producer, as usual.

Robert Foley
I hadn’t tried these for a couple of years. The '06 Petite Sirah is quite nice.

  • 2008 Robert Foley Charbono - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/23/2009)
    Nice berry nose; berry, oak palate with good acidity; medium finish (89 pts.)
  • 2006 Robert Foley Claret - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (8/23/2009)
    Deep berry, plum nose; tart berry, blalck fruit and oak palate with definition; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Robert Foley Petite Sirah - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (8/23/2009)
    Tangy black fruit and charcoal nose; tasty, deep, black fruit, graphite and pepper palate; medium finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)

Rock Wall
This is a new project by the Rosenblum family, and the Rosenblum daughter is the winemaker. I didn’t try the whole lineup, which was mostly Zin, because my low Zin threshhold had already been breached, but I quite enjoyed the Riesling sweetie.

  • 2006 Rock Wall Wine Co. Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Deep berry, blackberry nose; rich berry, blackberry palate with excessive oak; medium-plus finish (100% French oak) (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Rock Wall Wine Co. Riesling - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County (8/24/2009)
    Nice apricot, apricot honey nose; tasty, ripe apricot palate with good acidity; long finish (bottled 3 weeks earlier) (92 pts.)

Saddleback
Good wines as usual, but the rep behind the counter was so earnest and determined in his marketing and follow up efforts, even late in the day on Monday, that I was getting creeped out. Give it a rest, dude!

  • 2008 Saddleback Cellars Viognier - USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg (8/24/2009)
    Apple, cream nose; good floral, tart lime, peach palate; medium finish (89 pts.)
  • 2004 Saddleback Cellars Merlot - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville (8/24/2009)
    Nice plum, coffee, caramel nose; tart berry, plum, caramel palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2004 Saddleback Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (8/24/2009)
    Coffee, espresso, black fruit nose; black fruit, espresso, tight palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)

Scott Cellars
A recommendation from prior FW attendees. Good wines.

Tablas Creek
I love Tablas Creek, and what they’ve done for Rhone varietals in this country, nut rarely get a chance to taste them at large tasting where I’m trying to discover new producers. The '06 Esprit red may be the best Esprit red that I’ve tasted.

  • 2008 Tablas Creek Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Light red fruit, tart berry nose; tasty tart berry, herbal palate; medium finish (89 pts.)
  • 2008 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Light lime, chalk and mineral nose; tart chalk, mineral, lime cream palate; medium finish (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Unusual mineral, green fruit, herbal nose; tasty, tart green fruit, herbal, lime, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Nice berry, dried berry, herbal nose; tasty berry, dried berry, herbal palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
  • 2005 Tablas Creek Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Nice tar, plum, black fruit, spice nose; tight herbal, tart black fruit, charcoal palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (8/24/2009)
    Sexy tart berry and herbs palate; tart berry, black fruit, herbal, pepper palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)

Tandem
I generally like the Tandem Pinots, and enjoyed the '07 Silver Pines a lot.

  • 2006 Tandem Pinot Noir Van der Kamp Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain (8/24/2009)
    Savory, tart red fruit nose with a touch of brett; tart red fruit, savory, smoke palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Tandem Pinot Noir Silver Pines Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain (8/24/2009)
    Tart cherry, mineral nose; tart cherry, mineral, herbal palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (for fall release) (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Tandem Peloton - USA, California, Sonoma County (8/24/2009)
    Tart cherry and smoke nose with a touch of brett; tart red fruit, smoke, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (58% Pinot Noir, 30% Zinfandel, 2.5% Caringane, 2.5% Sangiovese, 2% Syrah, 2% Charbono, 2% Gewurtztraminer, 1% Pinot Meunier) (90 pts.)

Turley
Turley is usually represented by just one wine at these events, and this year was no exception. Very good as usual.

  • 2007 Turley Zinfandel Cedarman - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain (8/23/2009)
    Big ripe berry and raisin nose; ripe berry, raisin palate with depth; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)

Valdez Family
A couple people recommended this newish producer, where Jeff Cohn is consultant, but I was not all that impressed.


Posted from CellarTracker

2

Holy shit! You actually did notes on all those wines?

You are the man. [worship.gif] [worship.gif]

BTW, Remi Barrett is a babe. [wink.gif]

3

Great detailed notes Richard. I actually have tried of few and my recollection of the wines were very similar to your notes, excellent job.
It’s great to see that our fine and fun Board members John and Kimberly Cabot are lighting up palates with their Humboldt produce. flirtysmile

4

Easy there Kocheesy. She’s young enough to be your grandaughter.




Great notes…very impressive.

5

Richard,
Your notes are always ones I look forward to from Family Winemakers. I wasn’t able to attend this year.
It’s too bad Valdez wasn’t pouring the Rockpile Zinfandel. I like what David Phinney is doing with the Beau Vigne wines.
Thanks for the great notes

6

How did you write after all that tasting??
Whew.

Great notes, Thanks.

7

WOW.

8

like all i am both impressed by, and thankful for, your notes.

9

Thanks for the wonderfully detailed notes on so many wines.

10

Richard, great notes as usual. Seems that we agreed for the most part on wines we both tried, good to know :slight_smile:

Cheers

11

Amazing notes as always Richard. At these events do they indicate the cost of the wines? If so did any stand out as being unusually good values?

12

Thank you all for the very kind word. I really enjoyed writing up my report for Wine Berserkers this year. I found myself feeling less constrained (in terms of adding pictures and certain comments) than I did in writing such reports for that old, non-independent wine board. I do appreciate this forum, and the fact that it’s not under the control of any one critic.

Most producers are very open about the retail and wholesale cost of the wines they’re showing. Many of them are looking for representation, or simply additional retailers and restaurants interested in carrying them. The Navarro Gewurtz I love is a great value, at $18 or so. The Navarro lineup is very reasonably priced. Cabot Vineyards wines are a relative steal, ranging from $12 to $32. The Carrefours are pretty reasonably priced ($20-$42), as is Frostwatch ($30-46), Indigene ($13-$35), Kenneth Volk ($24-50), La Fenetre ($20-55), Lone Madrone ($25-50), Mahoney ($13-$36), Pierce Ranch ($16-$45), Scott Cellars ($18-36), and Tablas Creek ($25-45).

13

Wow, nice report.
Thanks!