It was with a hint of sadness that thirteen food and wine lovers gathered last evening at the trés chic Tribeca digs of Joe Dougherty. The occasion was one last hurrah for Sharon Bowman, who has graced the New York wine scene since February, yet, sadly, has decided to return to Paris and does so tomorrow.
Hey, look over there. Manuel and Josie Camblor have made it in from the Dominican Republic to help give Sharon a proper sendoff and there’s our favorite on hiatus jeebus reporter, Chris Coad and his lovely other half, Dr. Lisa. The ever affable Jay Miller (the original Jay Miller) is here and is that Melissa Rice actually joining Don at a dinner? Who’s watching the kids? The starving one, Sasha Katsman, has made it. Wonder what time zone he’s in today? Sharon has invited a grad school buddy of hers, Mark and his wife, Helga and the host with the most, the guest of honor and your humble scribe rounded out the attendees.
Yes, the gang’s all here and with the usual assortment of interesting and wacky wines. An invite to Chateauneuf-du-Joe is always to be cherished as his cooking is just superb, but it should be noted that he really kicked things up a notch with one of the best risotto dishes I’ve ever had. It was a lobster based risotto with corn, carrots, black trumpet mushrooms and then a host of other spices and secret ingredients that came at me way to fast to remember. A truly stunning dish. Joe’s baby back ribs were scrumptious as usual.
Fare thee well, Ms. Bowman. Don’t stay away too long and now a bunch of us have another excuse to visit Paris!
Cheers,
Brad
Wines are in the order tasted, though I missed a couple of Champagnes at the start.
2006 Domaine de Cézin- Jasnières
A nice little kickoff here. Just bright, sunshiny and focused. A sec Chenin Blanc, but it’s not severe at all. Ripe yet vivid quince and mineral flavors and aromas dominate with hints of honey. Crisp acidity balances it out. Sure, I’ll have another pour. A-/B+.
1994 Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion- Pessac-Léognan Blanc
This isn’t doing it for me. I’m never been much of a white Bordeaux fan precisely because of what’s going on here. Too much oak and I’m not partial to Semillon unless it’s seen botrytis. The wine shows a certain elegance to it with a nice mineral and grapefruit character, but there’s just too much oak here for me to fully enjoy as well as an unpleasant vinyl note. Still, it’s not without some pleasure. B-.
1999 Domaine Francois Raveneau- Chablis “Butteaux”
A nice showing for this wine tonight. There’s a beautiful elegance and almost regalness to the texture. It’s just smooooth and round with yellowish fruits, crushed shells and lots of stones. Coad calls it an “over achiever.” Ha ha! Truth be told, I think Sharon is the only real fan of Chardonnay at the table, but we all seemed to really enjoy it, so that’s saying something. Low A-.
2007 D. Ventura- Pena do Lobo, Ribeira Sacra
100% Mencia. Bright and full of juicy berry fruit and hints of spice. It’s all stainless steel and shows that certain screechy character you sometimes get from that. Not complicated at all, but I don’t think it’s trying to be. At least I hope it’s not. A good burger wine. B.
1995 Montevertine- Il Sodaccio, Vino du Tavolo Toscana
Jay Miller has a penchant for bringing this wine to dinners, frequently from off vintages where ripening was a problem, much to my horror and his delight, but not this time. This is in a very good place. Alluring aromas of rotting leaves, red earth, leather and cherry. On the palate it’s soft and mellow like a well worn blanket. Earth and leather dominate, though there is a little bit of underlying cherry. It dries out a little bit on the finish, so I’d start to drink these up. A-/B+.
1978 Sterling Cellars- Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Another wine brought by Jay that’s in a wonderfully soft and mellow place. Fully resolved and silky across the palate. It has that lovely old style California Cab feel to it that’s not burdened down by oak, but rather shows ripe, yet not overripe cherry, herb and earthy/leathery flavors. With air the wine grew and the fruit got a tad sweeter. Lots of murmuring around the table that this was a “real” wine. Lovely. A-/B+.
1998 Giuseppe Rinaldi- Nebbiolo, Langhe
A good whiff of volatile acidity before more pleasant aromas of cherries, roses, leather and cedar escape the glass. The theme the past couple of wines seems to be comfortably soft and fairly resolved and this wine fits right in. It’s softened and drinking quite nicely. Plenty of cherries, earth, cedar and leather on the palate with an interesting apricot/peach pit note. The wine is a bit chunky on the finish. While talking to Greg dal Piaz about it today he informed me this is actually Barolo that didn’t go into the Brunate or Cannubi bottlings. B+.
1990 L’Eglise-Clinet- Pomerol
Continuing the theme…Soft, fleshy and a little Rubenesque. Plenty of sweet red fruit to enjoy with bit of herb and earth. It’s fairly low acid and has softened tannins. Very enjoyable and drinking at peak. A-.
1981 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva “Imperial”
Always great to have this wine as I’ve never known a dull showing. Just classic old school Rioja. Softened and not quite feminine, yet not quite masculine, with sweet aged cherries, worn wood, earth leather and a touch of spice. Beautiful sweetness and length to the fruit. Just a gorgeous mouthful. A/A-.
1973 Lopez de Heredia- Rioja Gran Reserva, Viña Tondonia
A debate quickly emerged as to whether this bottle was corked, or if it was just a dirty barrel. I believe the consensus was dirty barrel, but in either case, it was flawed. Come to think of it, the last bottle I tried of this showed similarly. Not a good sign. NR.
1976 Francois de Montille- Volnay “Les Taillepieds”
Corked. NR.
2005 Larmandier-Bernier- Coteaux Champenois “Vertus Rouge”
100% Pinot Noir. Very funky on the nose. Maybe a bit easier on the sulphur, folks? Thin and tart on the palate with red cherries, bark and underbrush. Not enough fruit to balance out the acidity, which is surprising given it’s an '05. C+.
1955 Huet- Vouvray Sec, Le Haut-Lieu
Once again Dougherty tortures me by bringing out an old Huet, but makes it a sec. Indeed, it was a pretty severe wine. It’s surprisingly muted on the nose, but on the palate it’s a razor wire bullwhip that thrashes the insides of your mouth with acidic fury. Yeah, there’s some typical quince, bergamot, shoe polish and mineral to add a little pleasure, but this is about as much into S & M as I want to go. Please pass the sugar. B-.
2006 Királyudvar- Lapis Terasz (L6)
A rare gift to Joe that had been hand carried back from Hungary by Huet and Királyudvar’s proprietor, Anthony Hwang. Made from 100% Furmint that were passilerage with no botrytis, only 100 cases were produced. It’s moelleux in sweetness, but seems rather light weight and delicate. Quite floral with citrus and fruit cocktail flavors and aromas with touch of an herb component. The acidity keeps the wine light on its feet. A-/B+.
1934 Henriques & Henriques- Madeira Verdelho
Plenty of VA, but it wouldn’t be Madeira without it. Burnt sugar, orange peel and nutty aromas. Pretty smooth and rich on the palate with citrusy acidity keeping things in check. Spice cake, apricot, citrus and toffeed nuts on the palate. Quite enjoyable. A-.
Some photos from the night:
Chris Coad snarls as Dr. Lisa plays his better half.
Sharon tries on a chic new hat.
Jay Miller and Don Rice strike a pose.
One of the best risotto dishes I’ve ever had.
Sharon and Joe Dougherty show their appreciation for my photographic efforts.
After much prodding by me, Lisa and Sharon say adieu French style!
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