My first experience with Burlotto was through pelaverga. Theirs is probably my favorite rendition of the grape. Through the graces of Chambers Street, I’ve been able to try the 95 and 96 Neirane and Monvigliero Baroli on a number of occasions over the past two years, and I loaded up on the 95 Monvigliero. I have relatively little experience with them in more recent vintages, but the cantina was high on my list of places to visit on a quick trip to the Langhe a month ago -– indeed, it was my first stop.
My first hour there, the elder Signor Alessandria, who does not speak English, patiently dealt with my rusty pidgin Italian, and responded in his heavily accented Piemontese Italian. His son, Fabio, who is now making the wine, took over later, and we switched to English.
Unfortunately, they have sold out of the 06 Baroli, so I didn’t get to taste those, but it was a terrific line-up. I’ve put asterisks next to the ones that I’d seek out.
2010 “Viridis” Langhe Bianco (sauvignon blanc)
Crisp, fresh “vitale,” I wrote.
2010 “Elatis” Vino Rosato (60% pelaverga, 20% barbera, 20% nebbiolo)
Pure pelaverga on the nose – that lovely, light pepper note that marks the grape. Lampone/strawberry notes, with some grassy/weedy elements that I liked. Lovely, crisp and intriguing. This could win over those who don’t ordinarily gravitate toward rosé – like me.
2008 “Mores” Langhe Rosso (50/50 barbera/nebbiolo)
Nice grapy fruit on the nose and in the mouth; fairly chewy texture. Some oak notes (it’s aged in 500hl barrels). Nice but not a lot of character. But I’ve never been a fan of barbera/nebbiolo blends.
*2010 Verduno Pelaverga
A star in the line-up. Powerful peppery nose, with strawberry fruits. As good as it gets. A wine that gives great pleasure in warm weather. This was €8.20 at the cellar door.
*2009 Langhe Freisa
Chewy, but the tannins are soft. This is more like a big chewy Dolcetto di Dogliani than your average freisa. Fabio said the secret is really ripe grapes. I’m sorry I drank the one bottle I bought with friends. But it is available in the U.S. I’m going to track some down.
2009 “Aves” Barbera d’Alba
Nice but not a standout. Aged in 600hl barrels, and there were oak traces.
The serious stuff:
2007 Barolo normale
Lovely, fairly drinkable now. Very pure nebbiolo scents and flavors (rosehip, licorice).
2007 Barolo Acclivi
A blend of the best fruit, they say, but the cheapest of their bottlings except for the normale. Great grip. Simply delicious. Lots of ripe, fairly soft (for Barolo) tannins. Great purity and balance. 92+ points (and I’m a fairly tough grader).
*2007 Barolo Cannubi
This had a more distinct character, to my palate, than the Acclivi – whether because it’s a single cru or because the fruit is perhaps a little less ripe. The aromas were classic La Morra: on the feminine end of the spectrum, less brooding, less black fruit. Yet there is a distinct masculine side, too, which creates a tension I thoroughly enjoyed. Seems to have huge potential. 94+
*2007 Barolo Monvigliero
Monvigliero is sui generis, due both the terroir in Verduno and the winemaking technique, apparently. The grapes are not destemmed (rare in the region) and are pressed by foot, so there is some whole-cluster fermentation. The maceration is a mind-blowing 60 days (21 days is usually enough to qualify as “traditional”), and yet the wine is perhaps the most feminine Barolo I know of.
This, like other vintages, has a unique strawberry flavor profile that reminds me distinctly of the best Chambolle-Musigny.
By this point we were talking intensely so I didn’t write more detailed notes or a score, but I was torn between the Cannubi and Monvigliero – the former much more classic Barolo, and the latter unique and exquisite.
Of the five cantine where I tasted (Rizzi in Neive, Marcarini in La Morra, Brezza in Barolo and Vajra near La Morra), the Burlotto 07s were the strongest, for my tastes. I’m only sorry I couldn’t sample the Burlotto 06s, since I preferred that vintage to 07 every place else.
Here are my notes on Rizzi. I’ll post on the others when I have time.
Fabio Alessandria and his father:
