GRAZ tasting: CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 1990 & 1998

Twenty people (16 series of 4 stems each) met in the restaurant „Im Fünften“ (on the Fifth Floor) in Graz/Austria on June 18th to taste through the top cuvees Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998 and 1990.

24 wines (12 of each vintage), the points are mine, we voted for the winner and the 2nd place of each flight by raising hands.
A 4-course-dinner accompanied the tasting.

The wines have been „Audouzed“ (slow oxy) for app. 4 to 4.5 hours – and decanted for 20 min. in advance.
I decided to „mix“ the two vintages, and it wasn´t easy at all to pick the right vintage …

Flight #1:

#1: full ruby colour, cherry nose, intense, good grip, noticable acidity, slightly leathery, good sweet fruit, remained a bit „simple“ compared with the others, but long and persisting, 93p

#2: bright full colour, more open, slightly cedric nose, tobacco, polished and modern, but high class, wood very well integrated, excellent balance, mouthfilling, remained a bit plump compared with #4, 95p

#3: bright red, hints of iodine, later animalic notes (horse sweat) came thru, soft and mouthfilling, excellent sweetness, very interesting, though some didn´t like the animalic style, 96p

#4: full red colour, red and dark berries and cherries, very classic, fine inner core, first a bit straight, opened up nicely, very long finish, 95+p

group winners: WOTF #4 (26 points), #2 (20), #3 (12)

#1: Beaucuastel 1998
#2: Mordoree RdB 1998
#3: Beaucastel 1990
#4: Janasse Vielles Vignes 1998
Flight #2:

#5: full bright ruby colour with brightening rim, very nice perfumed nose, sweet sour cherry fruit, almost burgundian, if slightly lightweight compared with the rest, 93+p

#6: saturated red, more dense than #1, sweet red and dark fruits, very long, even powerful, but great balance, best showing of this wine so far, 94p

#7: full colour, took a while to open up, very good grip, hints of alcohol and rumpot, but elegant and youthful, fine potential, 96p

#8a: fine full colour, corked [swearing.gif]

#8b: a substitute from the (already decanted) next flight, bright red with orange rim, slight hints of oxidation which almost (but not totally) blew off, sweet Grenache fruit, wet leaves, fully mature, would have shown better in the next flight, for drinking, 92p

group winners: WOTF #6 (29 points), #5 (21), #7 & 8 ex equo

#5: Clos des Papes 1990
#6: Cotes-du-Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette (Rayas) 1990
#7: Roger Sabon Secret de Sabon 1998
#8a: Pegau Reservée 1990 (a pity, usually 96+p)
#8b: Marcoux Vielles Vignes 1990

Amuse Gueule

Flight #3:

#9: quite bright colour, sweet nose of red berries, very open, sweet cherry fruit, long and intense, super finish, 97p
#10: full dark red colour, dark berries, even plums, masculine grip on the palate, but sweet and balanced, excellent mouthfilling qualities, (taken from the next flight as a subsitute for the Marcoux) 96p
#11: full orange red colour, corked !
#12: bright but rather full colour, very sweet elegant nose, soft but very long on the palate with just enough acidity, perfect balance, very enjoyable, 95p

group winners: WOTF #9 (36 points), #12 (19), #10 (5)

#9: Chapoutier Barbe Rac 1998
#10: Bosqet des Papes Chantemerle 1990 (would have been better placed in the next flight, but a subsitute was necessary)
#11: Chapoutier Barbe Rac 1990 (bullsh… [head-bang.gif] ), usually a great wine
#12: Rayas 1998

1st course: Filet Wellington (pork filet in buff pastry) with fine sauce

(to be continued)

(part 2)

Flight #4:

#13: dense ruby colour, grippy with noticable (ripe) tannins, masculine, intense, quite powerful, but finish shorter than the rest ogf the flight, 95p
#14: colour brighter, but more saturated, hints of beef blood, provencial spices, soft warm mouthfeel, great texture, great length, 98p
#15: dark ruby, cool aromas, some toast, cocoa, coffee, well integrated, modern style, but high class, very fine balance, elegant, great length, (substitute, not Audouzed, decanted for 40 min.), 97p
#16: very full purple colour, youthful, intense and concentrated nose, dark fruits, spices, leather, decent horse stable, high but sweet tannins, extremely intense and long, powerful, very youthful, great potential, 99+p

group winners: WOTF #16 (23 points), #15 (16), #14 (12), #13 (7)

#13: Bonneau Celestins 1998
#14: Bonneau Celestins 1990
#15: Clos du Caillou Reserve 1998
#16: Pegau Da Capo 1998

The Bonneau C. 1998 was slightly disapointing, nowhere near 100 points, lacking slightly in mid-palate. Da Capo as great a Chateauneuf as imaginable, I´m very proud of my music on the back label.

Main course: slowly (low temperature) roasted Styria beef with vegetables and potatoe gratin
(stunning)

Flight #5:

#17: full dark red colour, sweet intense nose, meaty, chewy, even hot, powerful but structure almost hidden, great length, 98p
#18: full purple colour, lots of dark berries in the nose, sweet fruit with animalic notes, great core and texture, a mouthful of wine, 99p
#19: dark purple-red, quite pure nose of black and red berries, even fruity on a high scale, very long, slightly straight, the others are more complex, 96p
#20: very saturated ruby colour, soft but chewy texture, even oily, sweet tannins, great elegance in a rustic sense, 98p

group winners: WOTF #18 (20 points), #17 (11), #19 & 20 ex equo (10)

#17: Bonneau Cuvee Speciale 1998
#18: Beaucastel Hommage J.Perrin 1990
#19: Beaucastel Hommage J.Perrin 1998
#20: Bonneau Cuvee Speciale 1990

3 great wines, and BJP 1998 only slightly behind (for me personally due to lack of complexity)

Flight 6:

#21: saturated ruby colour, classical nose, sweet cherries, hints of yoghurt, expansive palate, almost port like, very intense and long, but not that elegenat, 95p
#22: slightly brighter, a cocktail of red berries, soft and seductive on the plate, perfect balance, so delicious and mouthfilling, a point, 98p
#23: full medium red, no bricking, nose a bit restricted, more dark than red cherries, very nice sweetness on the palate, very long and lingering, great length and balance, only the nose not as expressive as usual (no cork detectable), 96p
#24: full bright red transparent colour, classical Grenache fruit, red berries and cherries, great sweetness, very nice ripe structure with just the right acidity in the background, absolutely delicious right now, 99p

group winners: WOTF #22 (21 points), #24 (20), #19 & 23 (14). #22 (2)

#21: Les Cailloux Centenaire 1998
#22: Les Cailloux Centenaire 1990
#23: Chateau Rayas 1990
#24: Marcoux VV 1998

Selection of fine cheese

Sweet wines:
a) Coteaux du Layon (Loire) Ch. De Richettes 1996 (good, eventually not sure if slightly corked)
b) Riesling Spätlese Kaserler Nies´chen KARLSMÜHLE (Peter Geiben) (Ruwer/Germany) – very good, especially for the 9.90 Euro-price (I think it was vintage 2007)
c) Gaillac doux „Vendange dorée“ – 2005
Domaine d´Escausses (Denis Balaran - F) – very interesting, „cool“ fruit (forgot the vintage) (vintage edited)
d) Zweigelt Beerenauslese 1990 – Martin Haider (Illmitz/Austria) – excellent
e) Colheita 1964 – Royal Oporto Wine Co. (very accessable, mid weight, very complex)

Dessert variations


My personal ranking:

  1. #16: Pegau Da Capo 1998 99+p
  2. #24: Marcoux VV 1998 99p
    and #18: Beaucastel Hommage J.Perrin 1990 99p
  3. #22: Les Cailloux Centenaire 1990 98p
    and #17: Bonneau Cuvee Speciale 1998 98p
    and #20: Bonneau Cuvee Speciale 1990 98p
    and #14: Bonneau Celestins 1990 98p
  4. #9: Chapoutier Barbe Rac 1998 97p
    and #15: Clos du Caillou Reserve 1998 97p
  5. #10:#23: Rayas 1990 96p
    and #10: Bosquet des Papes Chantemerle 1990 96p
    and #7: Roger Sabon Secret de Sabon 1998 96p
    and #3: Beaucastel 1990 96p
  6. #13: Bonneau Celestins 1998 95p
    and #2: Mordoree RdB 1998 95p
    and #4: Janasse Vielles Vignes 1998 95+p
    and #12: Rayas 1998 95p

(16 out of 24 wines between 95 and 99+ points – not bad)

The groups winners of the 6 flights were (in chronological order):
#4: Janasse Vielles Vignes 1998
#6: Cotes-du-Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette (Rayas) 1990
#9: Chapoutier Barbe Rac 1998
#16: Pegau Da Capo 1998
#18: Beaucastel Hommage J.Perrin 1990
#22: Les Cailloux Centenaire 1990

with 2nd in each flight:
#2: Mordoree RdB 1998
#5: Clos des Papes 1990
#9: Chapoutier Barbe Rac 1998
#15: Clos du Caillou Reserve 1998
#17: Bonneau Cuvee Speciale 1998
#24: Marcoux VV 1998

… but one cannot really compare the results of the different flights …

Conclusion: most if not all top 1990 are fully mature, with the possible exception of the 2 Bonneaus and Hommage JP. This particular bottle of Marcoux VV was even slightly over apogee, but I´m not sure if it has been stored perfectly (bought at auction).
The 1998s were more or less youthful, some are drinking great, some still need time (Da Capo!), many were impressive!

I´m curious about your opinions.

Gerhard

I love these tastings that you do, Gerhard!

Good timing with all the '98’s, as we have been discussing the variance in outcome for '98 CdP on here recently. It would also appear that you have quite a different palate preference than your colleagues, as you have nearly an inverse ranking. They seem to go for the more flashy, new world style CdP’s, you for the more traditional.

Really a fantastic tasting with a killer lineup of wines. Can you speak more to the vintage characteristics between 90 and 98?

I haven’t had a lot of 90 CDP but I’ve had my fair share of 98 and I would say it is probably my favorite vintage (hallmark depth of fruit, tertiary complexity and balance - not hot and overt like 03) for drinking now while 05 may soon be comparable in a decade.

Also, do you think the Audouze helped the wines show well? Would you repeat said opening for the same wines? I tend to Audouze young cdp (especially those heavy in granache so they blowoff some heat and balance) but have yet to do so consistently with older wines.

Wow! That is quite the list of impressive wines. Thanks for the notes. The recent 1998s I’ve had have also shown somewhat young still, especially Vieux Telegraphe.

Well, that might be so … on the other hand I don´t give much on group votings … to much variables … and to easy to overlook the really individual …


Well, there are producers which have changed their style (Beaucastel! - not for the good IMHO since I found the 98 a bit “boring”), on the other hand Bonneau seems to be the same as ever (reg. the Cuvée Speciale) … only this particular bottle of 98 C. seemed to be lighter than expected, but nevertheless in the same style.

Unfortunately we didn´t have Pegau and Barbe Rac 1990 for comparison due to cork, but I know both well enough to say they are fine as always if not better … DA CAPO is already a monument.

I think Marcoux has still improved, the 1998 being simply great while the 1990 is for drinking up - at least this bottle.

At Rayas Emmanuel has taken over … and as good as the 1998 is … it is no 1990 … and it took him a while to fully adapt to the estate …

On the other hand Bosquet des Papes and Clos des Papes made no special 1998s, so I left them out in advance …

There were some new producers or cuvées in 1998 - and we tasted some great ones … Janasse, Mordoree, Secret … and I even had to leave out some interesting wines (Bois de Boursan Felix for instance …)

Generally speaking the 1990 seemed a bit more old-fashioned, even Centenaire … while the 1998 were slightly more polished and fresher (not only due to less age), with noticable acidity and almost no jammy notes … with some modern stylistic additions …

Yes, I think the method works perfectly for aged AND young wines …
almost all wines seemed to be open and accessable - even the Bonneaus and H.J.Perrins … only Da Capo could have benefitted from another 6-10 hours flirtysmile

Do you think this is more a result of the age of the wines, or simply that the 1998s were always a bit more polished and maybe even more fruit forward than say the 1990s or the 1989s?

Somewhere I thought I saw some who tasted the 1998s when they were young suggest that the 2007s may age similarly to the 1998s. I certainly hope that’s true because the 1998s seem to have turned out quite nicely IMHO.

Love your notes Gerhard. Many thanks for posting.

A nice panel … [cheers.gif]

Agree for a non ultimate Rayas 1998 (91/100), one of the weakest in our verticale.

Which vintage for the Gaillac Vendanges dorées (the 2001 is very good, 2001 being a very good vintage for sweet wines in this area) ?
Many sweet Gaillac can prove excellent (Palvié Esprit, Rotier Renaissance, Rieux Concerto, Causse Marines délire d’automne, Gineste Coulée d’or, Plageoles Autan, …).

Darryl,
there are two points IMO:

  1. 1998 was a less hot year than 1990, less extreme, slightly later harvest, and I think that´s the reason for the greater freshness, slightly higher acidity and less “jammy” character in several wines …

  2. Several estates have updated their wine-making (if for the good or bad remains to be seen) - and in addition many new producers made it up to top-level at all - often with a new generation of wine-makers …

2007 was a hotter and drier vintage than 1998 … many wines are more concentrated, the mean alc. is higher … so comparison is difficult.
I think some wines which avoided extreme extraction and kept a certain balance could turn out even better than 1998 …
but some others might turn out unbalanced eventually … or at least lack freshness and briskness to a certain degree …

Laurent,
while Rayas 1998 might not be as great as maybe possible (e.g. if Jacques still would have been alive), this bottle was really fine and most probably better than your 91/100 score suggests …

Reg. the Gaillac I will ask the guy who brought it - I simply forgot to note the vintage …

The very context …

Rayas not the same among others and in a verticale …

In my Rayas-verticale 18 months ago:

Rayas 1998:
#12: full colour, initially quite soft, but opened up nicely, gained strength and real power, tannic, long, 94p

So the 1998 seemed slightly improved now - best showing so far, but I always had it in the 94-point-range …

Gerhard

Thanks. I am just hoping that in 10 years I won’t wish I’d have drank all my 2007s young because they didn’t follow the track of the 1998s or the 1990s. However, as normal, only time will tell.

Laurent,
the Gaillac was vintage 2005 -
Domaine d´Escausses (Denis Balaran) …
I have asked the guy who brought it to the tasting … and edited above.
Cheers

A good domain for white, red and sweet Gaillac (Mauzac blanc 30 % - Loin de l’oeil 60% - Ondenc 10%).

'07 was hotter then '98? Surprising and '07 was down right cool with close to or lower than '04 temps. Gerhard, any idea on the average temp in '98?

Jeb,
I wrote this from memory … if 2007 wasn´t the “hottest” year in degrees - then the year with the most sunshine overall …
I have no time yet but I think the info is in Harry Karis´ book …

… however - 2007 “showes” slightly hotter than 1998, but with definitely more freshness than 2003.

As far as my experience leads: 2007 is a mean stronger vintage than 1998 and 1990, simply because there are so many more fine producers …
If you like the 2007s now, and if you like aged CdP … there is no reason that you won´t like it in 10-15 years …
My only concerns are with the (few) wines that I find too extracted, alcoholic and imbalanced now … they won´t be much better with time, too …

(BTW: Rayas, Pegau, Marcoux VV, P.Usseglio MA … Clos des Papes … will be elegends in 2010+ …)

Tip: the day after this CdP tasting I helt a birhday-tasting at my home for a lot of friends.
report HERE:

GRAZ birthday tasting fun - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Gerhard