Twenty people (16 series of 4 stems each) met in the restaurant „Im Fünften“ (on the Fifth Floor) in Graz/Austria on June 18th to taste through the top cuvees Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998 and 1990.
24 wines (12 of each vintage), the points are mine, we voted for the winner and the 2nd place of each flight by raising hands.
A 4-course-dinner accompanied the tasting.
The wines have been „Audouzed“ (slow oxy) for app. 4 to 4.5 hours – and decanted for 20 min. in advance.
I decided to „mix“ the two vintages, and it wasn´t easy at all to pick the right vintage …
Flight #1:
#1: full ruby colour, cherry nose, intense, good grip, noticable acidity, slightly leathery, good sweet fruit, remained a bit „simple“ compared with the others, but long and persisting, 93p
#2: bright full colour, more open, slightly cedric nose, tobacco, polished and modern, but high class, wood very well integrated, excellent balance, mouthfilling, remained a bit plump compared with #4, 95p
#3: bright red, hints of iodine, later animalic notes (horse sweat) came thru, soft and mouthfilling, excellent sweetness, very interesting, though some didn´t like the animalic style, 96p
#4: full red colour, red and dark berries and cherries, very classic, fine inner core, first a bit straight, opened up nicely, very long finish, 95+p
group winners: WOTF #4 (26 points), #2 (20), #3 (12)
#1: Beaucuastel 1998
#2: Mordoree RdB 1998
#3: Beaucastel 1990
#4: Janasse Vielles Vignes 1998
Flight #2:
#5: full bright ruby colour with brightening rim, very nice perfumed nose, sweet sour cherry fruit, almost burgundian, if slightly lightweight compared with the rest, 93+p
#6: saturated red, more dense than #1, sweet red and dark fruits, very long, even powerful, but great balance, best showing of this wine so far, 94p
#7: full colour, took a while to open up, very good grip, hints of alcohol and rumpot, but elegant and youthful, fine potential, 96p
#8a: fine full colour, corked
#8b: a substitute from the (already decanted) next flight, bright red with orange rim, slight hints of oxidation which almost (but not totally) blew off, sweet Grenache fruit, wet leaves, fully mature, would have shown better in the next flight, for drinking, 92p
group winners: WOTF #6 (29 points), #5 (21), #7 & 8 ex equo
#5: Clos des Papes 1990
#6: Cotes-du-Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette (Rayas) 1990
#7: Roger Sabon Secret de Sabon 1998
#8a: Pegau Reservée 1990 (a pity, usually 96+p)
#8b: Marcoux Vielles Vignes 1990
Amuse Gueule
Flight #3:
#9: quite bright colour, sweet nose of red berries, very open, sweet cherry fruit, long and intense, super finish, 97p
#10: full dark red colour, dark berries, even plums, masculine grip on the palate, but sweet and balanced, excellent mouthfilling qualities, (taken from the next flight as a subsitute for the Marcoux) 96p
#11: full orange red colour, corked !
#12: bright but rather full colour, very sweet elegant nose, soft but very long on the palate with just enough acidity, perfect balance, very enjoyable, 95p
group winners: WOTF #9 (36 points), #12 (19), #10 (5)
#9: Chapoutier Barbe Rac 1998
#10: Bosqet des Papes Chantemerle 1990 (would have been better placed in the next flight, but a subsitute was necessary)
#11: Chapoutier Barbe Rac 1990 (bullsh… ), usually a great wine
#12: Rayas 1998
1st course: Filet Wellington (pork filet in buff pastry) with fine sauce
(to be continued)