Maybe it was the solstice or something. Blame the moon.
Robert Weil 1976 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Auslese - brown, smells like hairspray, muddled and over the hill. One sip then dumped. Tried again later and dumped again.
Ponsot 1995 Clos de la Roche - first sip was nice, palate-filling and silky. Unfortunately started to thin out and crumble a bit after that. Half-glass then dumped.
Armand Rousseau 1997 Charmes-Chambertin - not bad, but noticeably disjointed in comparison to the Ponsot, with a wincing bitterness. Half-glass then dumped.
Louis Jadot 1993 Clos St. Denis - much more supple compared to the previous, thought we’d have a real winner for a moment but the structure quickly asserted itself and cobwebbed up all the fruit. Not bad, but this bottle just wasn’t in the mood. Nor was I. Half-glass then dumped.
Jaboulet 1989 Hermitage La Chapelle - pruney scents had me thinking this might be a bad bottle, but nothing about the taste suggested cooked wine. It still had an adolescent red color and a mildly varietally correct peppery flavor, but it’s still much closer to generic red wine than Hermitage with the tannin seriously drying out the fruit. Can’t say whether this was damaged along the way or damaged before it even went into the bottle, bad whether it’s a bad wine or a bad bottle it was just plain bad. A few sips then dumped.
Jean-Louis Chave 1989 Hermitage - clearly more interesting to taste than the Jaboulet, but this is way more tannic, way less savory, and way less fruited than other bottles I’ve had of this. The disturbingly large amount left in the bottle at the end of dinner testified that this was not a good example of this wine. Good examples of this won’t have a drop in the dump bucket. I dumped much more than that. Forgot to note whose import strip.
Jean-Louis Chave 1998 Hermitage - intermediate stage of development, which is the most benefit-of-the-doubt way of saying this offered absolutely nothing. Plenty of tannin, no gloss at all, not showing any fruit. No importer strip. A few tastes then dumped.
Chateau Latour 1971 - very, very tannic. It’s soft but there’s a whole lot of it. This wouldn’t be so disappointing if it had come out of an old cru bourgeois bottle, but this didn’t offer anything in the same hemisphere as a first-growth experience. Others noted some lead pencils… I think they were fishing. A few tastes over a long period to see if anything would come of it… and then the rest dumped.
Bruno Clavelier 2002 Vosne-Romanee Beaux Monts - thought a young Burgundy would be a nice reset after all those tannic and anonymously old duds. Wrong. The first sip offered some nice youthful fruit; five minutes later when I came back to the glass it was so tannic, inelegantly muscular, and dull that I thought I had grabbed one of the Hermitages by accident. Dumped.
Muller-Catoir 2003 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spatlese - first bottle we opened, really tasty then, and the only one I came back to at the end of the night. Started out fresh and pineapply, eventually turned more apply and less tropical, a real bright acidity running through it and just the right amount of the sour at its core to balance out some of that luscious '03 fruit. At least we had one thing worth drinking! A Christmas Eve miracle!