Another observations: The tattoo has come into fashion for men and women in Italy. Groan. Another American cultural export, I guess.
Actually, that’s been there for quite some time. I lived in Italy in the early 2000’s. I belonged to a local gym in the North. Almost every Italian, mainly younger people who were regulars, had several. Some had whole sleeves or thighs, even back then.
Great report, well written and filled with details while sustaining the overarching theme. Nice balance between narrative and analysis. I really like your emphasis on work-a-day wines and normales which provide me with so much uncomplicated enjoyment (and hardly any disappointment).
What’s your favorite barbaresco outside of Giacosa, Gaja and Produttori?
I don’t drink enough Nebbiolo to have a very strong opinion (though I love the stuff when it is on), but I’ve been wowed by some Roagna barbarescos through the years.
Anders,
You’ll note I was referring to how the wine tasted, rather than any other measure of tannin. It doesn’t appear to be a linear process at all.
I misread your post. But the Rosanna is rosé, to be clear; pale pink but pink nonetheless. ‘Nebbiolo di Barolo’ just means it comes from vineyards that are within the appellation.
Yes, I noted that. And I don’t think that the process is necessarily linear. What I was trying to say was simply that the longer you macerate, the more phenolic compounds you will extract (i.e. the extraction is monotonically increasing with time although not necessarily in a linear way). But I also tried to say that there are lots of variables other than maceration time (e.g., temperature, alcohol level during the maceration period, and the extent and type of “agitation”) that also affect exactly what and how much is being extracted. Furthermore, the raw material you are extracting from of course strongly affects what you end up with as well, as does the time and type of ageing after vinification. If you consider the joint impact of all these variables rather than just maceration time alone, they may well explain why you find wines macerated for longer period of times rounder than those given less time.
Yes, I realize that. But I was unclear when I spoke about “rosé” in my reply to you. I should have said “still rosé” as I did in the reply to John to which you first responded.
I realize that. But what Marina said was “Nebbiolo per Barolo” which translates as Nebbiolo meant for Barolo.
I don’t disagree about the impact of soil and elevation. But I think you should accept the river influence, too, given that two of the top producers cite it as a key factor.
I went most years from 1996 to 2005 just out of curiosity and love of the wines. I’ve only been twice since – 2011 and this year. I’m not in the trade.
FYI, more notes to follow tomorrow. I’ve been in transit for 20+ hours, which gave me some time to write but put me off line.
As already indicated, I do accept it.
Here’s a video from the Vinous site of Vittore and Fabio discussing Monvigliero. Fabio discusses the impact of the Tanaro, along with the soils, on the aromas of the wines. It also gives you a good sense of these two, very thoughtful winemakers.
On Sept. 1, under a baking sun, I visited Fratelli Oddero, near the hamlet of Santa Maria on the lower northeast slopes of La Morra. I don’t have a huge amount of experience with Oddero, but I’ve had some older ones that showed very well and I remember the 06 normale/classico was exceptional. The visit proved to be one of the highlights of the week.
2013 Langhe Bianco Collaretto: A 50-50 blend of riesling and chardonnay grown in La Morra, I believe. I kind of shrugged at this one. Pietro Oddero said they started adding riesling because they weren’t too excited by their chardonnay and his mother likes riesling. The result didn’t seem to have much character of any grape – remarkable given the high proportion of riesling. (Howard Davis found riesling on the nose, but I did not.) Pietro said they have considered acquiring land in the Alta Langa to plant riesling (where Germano’s riesling is grown). I’d say: Go for it, and skip the chardonnay.
2013 Langhe Nebbiolo: From 25 to 40-year-old vines in the Santa Ambrogia vineyard and younger vines in their main Barolo sites. Eighteen months in botte. Nice body, lots of fruit and grip. A half bottle also showed well the next night with dinner at the excellent Osteria del Vignaiolo just up and around the bend in Santa Maria.
Next were a trio of 2012s that showed very well. Pietro said they may make a riserva in 2012, but not in 2014.
2012 Barbaresco Gallina: A big step up. Good concentration and a good measure of tannin, though less of both than the Barolos. A nice wine but overshadowed by what followed.
2012 Barolo classico: A blend of three vineyards: Bricco Chieso near the cantina and Cappellato, also in La Morra, as well as from Fiasco in Castiglione. Pietro said this is not intended as a lesser Barolo, but as one made in the old way, by mixing complementary vineyards (a la Bartolo Mascarello), albeit with a little shorter maceration (20-25 days). I found this elegant and I wrote “good concentration … a really good mid-palate.” I’d guess this will be a very good value. Not to be dismissed for lack of a cru designation.
2012 Barolo Roche: From 75-year-old vines. A trace of celery on the nose (which I like). In the mouth this had a sweetness almost like you get from some barriqued wines, though they use only botte. “Luscious, rich, intense/concentrated,” I wrote. I gave this 94. One of the top wines of the trip for me. Greg dal Piaz put this among a handful of 2012s he liked, with 92 points. (He said the ‘12s at Oddero were “brutally tannic,” but I didn’t find that at all.)
2007 Barolo Bussia Soprano - Vigna Mondoca: This is at a good moment, though it has that slightly diffuse quality I’ve found in many 2007s. I’d like a bit more focus – a bit more acidity and real fruit concentration.
2006 Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva: This is a 10-year riserva that will be released later this year after 30 months in botte and seven years in bottle. What a nose! Deep, brooding dark, dark cherries. Great concentration, great balance, and totally fresh in the mouth. This shows both its Serralunga origin and the vintage character. It’s a wine to be reckoned with it. I wrote “94” in the margin on this one, and that’s probably stingy, as this is still young.
I couldn’t disagree more with Howard Davis calling these “good, honest, workmanlike but unspectacular wines.” I think they are excellent traditional Langhe wines.
Photo added Sept. 22. There is a new rule that nebbiolo that has not yet been certified by the relevant consorzio as Barolo or Barbaresco cannot be labeled as such on the barrels. Weird, yes. As a result, those barrels and botti now have signs that were translated for me as “Nebbiolo aspiring to be Barolo.” 
Here’s one at Oddero. Maybe someone can tell me why vertical pictures from my phone turn sideways here.
I couldn’t disagree more with Howard Davis calling these “good, honest, workmanlike but unspectacular wines.” I think they are excellent traditional Langhe wines.
+1
I’ve watched Luca’s evolution (since his first year) and the evolution in the vineyards (since mid 90s), these guys are really killing it right now - and they’re just getting (re)started. All the hard work is really paying off. Their new cantina, which formally opened last Saturday, is just brilliant.
Did Pietro mention he was going to Dujac (to work) for this year’s harvest? The Oddero family has become quite good friends (and students of) Roz/Jacques/Jeremy/Diana - and Burgundy - in their quest for quality.
Yes, that 2006 Riserva is wonderful. I believe it’s completely sold out, not sure. I’ll be there in about 70 days and will grab a mixed case or two of 11s and 12s as dinner companions for my three month stay.
I too regularly eat at Vignaiolo - the next mediocre meal will be the first one. Love that place.
thanks for the notes
Do they charge for tastings, and if so how much does it cost? Do many of the places allow you to taste their older bottles?
The only place I’m aware of that charges is Cogno, which is 25 euros. You shouldn’t expect older vintages, but if the host/hostess takes to you, or there’s an older wine already open, you may luck out.
Great notes, John. Thank you.
My first visit to G.D. Vajra in 2011 was kind of a revelation – the quality was so strong across the board – so I was eager to return. (Here’s my posting on that visit.) I was not disappointed. This time Melina Vaira poured and generally exuded charm.
2015 Langhe Riesling: From vines in the Fossati cru and in Sinio, just outside the Barolo DOC near Serralunga. I’ve liked every vintage of this wine that I’ve had since I first stumbled on it maybe eight years ago. The 2015 was true to form. There’s a trace of reduction on the nose along with white peach aromas. In the mouth I got that peach with a good spine of acidity. This resembles a German Trocken versus the more Austrian/Alsatian (or Grosse Gewachs) style that Germano makes (see above). I like both, but I lean toward this leaner interpretation of the grape. Melina said she feels it should be aged for 10 years but realizes that few bottles are. A 2012 I stumbled on in Massachusetts this summer was very pleasing. Now I want to lay away a few bottles.
2013 Barbera d’Alba Superiore: The warm vintages always seems to pay off with barbera, and this had oodles of ripe black cherries for me, plus an earthiness that the best barberas offer (think G. Conterno). Lots of acid but there was so much fruit here that the acid didn’t dominate, as it can too often with barbera. First rate. Howard Davis was told this is from vines that are 35+ years old and that it’s macerated around 30 days. I just ordered some here in New York.
2014 Langhe Nebbiolo: From young Barolo vines plus fruit from the Cascina Bertone vineyard in Sinio near Serralunga (Ken Vastola posted a map). The fermentation is 15-20 days and it’s aged all in steel. Notwithstanding the challenges of the vintage, this turned out well, and I guess I’ll have to question my view above that nebbiolo needs some time wood. This is less ripe than the ’09 and ’11 versions, which I own, and not on a par with the ’11, which punched well above its weight. But it’s still good.
2012 Barolo “Albe”: This is the base bottling at a good price (as low as $30 in the U.S.). The name means sunrises is the local dialect, and I believe Melina said it refers to easterly exposure of the three sites from which the fruit comes. The 2012 shows a lot of fruit on the nose and is rich on the palette. It’s actually riper than the ’12 Barolo crus but lacks a little concentration and structure and is less complex. Still, a step up from most Nebbiolo Langhe/d’Alba and not that much more expensive.
2012 Barolo Bricco delle Viole: Vajra’s signature wine, from the vineyard surrounding the cantina, near the upper elevations of the Barolo commune (~400 meters). I found this exceptional. Intense floral notes on the nose (the vineyard name means ridge of the violets) and dried strawberry and other lighter red fruits – definitely toward the feminine side of Barolo. Think Chambolle-Musigny. Same thing in the mouth: elegant, red fruits but with good structure to match. I was sold at the first sniff, but it delivered in the mid-palate and the finish and I kept returning to this glass in the line-up. I gave it 92 at the time. Ken Vastole gave it 94. Howard Davis was not so keen, saying it wasn’t a strong example of BdV. Greg dal Piaz gave this 91 – one of his higher scores for a 2012.
2012 Barolo Ravera: Deeper, more dark-fruited on the nose, and also less open than the BdV. Same story in the mouth – tougher, more tannic, more masculine, less fruity. More tightly wound at this point. Hard for me to put a score on this. Howard had the opposite experience, finding it more open. It may be a matter of time and air. Barolo can be a furtive beast at this stage in its life. Greg was a little less keen, giving it 90.
2012 Luigi Baudana - Barolo Baudana cru: From the small estate in Serralunga that Vajra purchased in 2008. If the Bricco delle Viole is Chambolle, this is Gevrey-Chambertin – beefier, more masculine and spicy. I liked this as much or more than the BdV. I got a floral profile on the nose that was similar to the BdV, and it was quite elegant in the mouth. “Really outstanding,” I wrote and gave it 93. Ken was similarly enthusiastic (92). Howard found it “a lesser Barolo than the two Vajra Baroli.” Greg also scored it lower than the wines under the Vajra name: 88 points.
2012 Langhe Freisa “Kyè”: It’s probably unfair to judge this wine now. It is darker in color than the Barolos, with an intense, almost cherry/plum liqueur-like bouquet. In the mouth, it was coarser than the Barolos, as you’d expect from freisa, but it’s balanced. Having drunk the ‘89 and ‘90 of this wine seven or eight years ago, I’d guess this has a lovely, more complex future ahead of it. After 18 years or so, those Kyes had converged with Barolo.
(Edited to add link to 2011 thread.)
Good stuff, John!
BTW Aldo Vaira said that Teobaldo Cappellano told him that Nebbiolo from Bricco Bertone went into older bottles of Cappellano Barolo.
GD Vajra is the only 2012 I have tasted so far. I quite like the house style. I did like the 2012 Albe and Bricco. Bricks is a step up. Softer style. Good use of the vintage. Relaxed easy to drink. Not as layered as the 2010 but a nice wine to drink in the near future. I did buy a few.
John, thank you for posting all of this. Making room for some 2013s
Thanks for that. I wasn’t aware of this video yet although I had come across another one, where Galloni interviews Fabio about the particular way Burlotto vinifíes their Monvigliero and which may be of a certain interest with regard to the parallel discussion about fermentation/maceration times.
What Fabio says in the video you link to puts the pieces we have been talking about together in a way that makes a lot of sense to me. The exposure along with the relatively low altitude makes Monvigliero a quite warm/hot site during the day. At the same time, the proximity of the river has a cooling effect at night, which increases the day/night temperature variations that just about everyone considers so important for aroma and tannin development, particularly at a late stage in the growing season.
A question that remains, at least to my mind, is exactly what it is that elevates the quality of the grapes from Monvigliero above that of the other Barolo sites in Verduno. The proximity to the river is roughly the same everywhere and its cooling effect thus conceivably the same everywhere as well (although the ridge between the river and the Barolo zone is higher in the more eastern parts which could perhaps make a difference). It could of course be that the soil type at Monvigliero is slightly different from elsewhere. But it could also be that the exposure along with the altitude is more optimal. Most other MGA zones in Verduno are either lower or higher and/or less well exposed, except possibly Riva Rocca, from which there was, until recently, only one single-vineyard bottling available (Claudio Alario; now Michele Reverdito makes one too).