I have never heard/read any negative comments about Troisgros. Reactions are universally positive. It is absolutely on my list.
I suspect there is some politics at work with the Guide Michelin. Bocuse wields a tremendous amount of influence in France and commands so much respect that the Guide Michelin would not dare take away a star or two from him. Can you imagine the reaction and outcry in the culinary world if this were to happen?
There is politics when the Guide Michelin awards stars as well. Some years ago, Les Jardins des Sens in Montpellier was awarded 3 stars. As my friends in the area told me, this was done because the Languedoc region, which is a major travel destination and is heavily trafficked, lacked a 3 star restaurant. I ate there twice, and both times the food was at best of one star quality. Service was unpolished and at times unprofessional. This must have drawn the attention of the Guide Michelin because the restaurant was demoted to two stars and then recently, to one. The brothers who own the restaurant do not come close to having the stature of a Bocuse.
I went to that restaurant in Tokyo. In one of the Hyatt hotels. Beccat was the chef at the time. It was pretty good, but not memorable.
Guy Savoy was at his Paris Restaurant the last time I was there. I think he is pretty involved in the kitchen of his restaurant.
Agree with a comment on this above
They will not remove stars while Bocuse is still alive.
Similar situation with Maxim’s in the late 70’s. Everything I said about Bocuse applies to Maxim’s at that time. But, as I unsuccesfully tried to explain about Ami Louis in that topic, Maxims holds great cultural significance and so instead of removing stars, Michelin and Maxim’s negociated and the outcome was having Maxim’s removed from the guide.
These comments about whether the chef is present or not are somewhat naive. The value of the chef being present or not depends on alot of factors. Sometimes it makes no difference for a day or 2.
I would expect no less from you.
Really too bad to hear about the fall of Bocuse. I have been there a few times with the first in the summer of 1992 and the last either in the fall of 2000 or 2001. The first time in 1992 was spectacular - I still remember with great fondness the truffle soufflé soup with spoonfuls of truffles, the Bresse chicken in the bladder and the three or four dessert carts that surrounded the table for the final courses - my first grand dinner of that scale when traveling on my own (I also remember the perfect and gracious/warm service we received notwithstanding being a couple of 22yr olds obviously out of our element). The last dinner there was also quite good though perhaps not as good a Ducasse or Troigros on that trip but it was as good or better than a couple other ***s from the same week. During my last visit it was clear that there was no innovation going on and just more of the same standards, though executed still at a very high level with terrific service.
Decline like this is probably inevitable without the next generation taking over. No longer any desire or energy to innovate, evolve and keep the imagination … Good enough to fade into the sunset making plenty of money and enjoying semi-retirement. The poster child for “riding on reputation” - in fact given the longevity and scale of doing it, probably one of the most remarkable examples anywhere.
What are you waiting for? We went last year. EPIC.