Chateau Margaux has an ongoing study in which they’ve put wines from the 2004(?) vintage under multiple closures (cork, diam, screw-cap, etc), and are checking their progress every few years by tasting them blind. Of course, the obvious problem is that A) they won’t have conclusive evidence for another 20+ years, and B) the screw-cap technology is likely to be significantly different by the time the evidence is in.
Do any Bordeaux producers-classified or otherwise-use screwcaps?
[quote=“T. Schaffler”]One would think that y’quem would be ideal candidate for screw cap. Same for first growths. If they start doing it, everybody will change.
This I totally agree with.
Seems I remember a report in Wine Business Monthly about two years ago where a Bordeaux house (not first growth) did a comparison and decided that screwcaps were superior. When asked if they would switch I think they said “maybe in about 10 years…”
Each and every winery I’ve known that has done comparisons comes to the same conclusion…
Peter Rosback
Sineann (ITB)
That’s a great point, Peter. It’s not just the avoidance of taint.
The 2nd wine of Pichon-Longueville Baron was under screw-cap for a period, I believe, at least in some markets. I do not know if it still is.
I also believe that Chateau Couhins Lurton is under screw-cap, or at least it was. But that is obviously not an 1855 property, but it is part of the P-L classification.
Taint finally convinced me to drop cork - that is, cork taint in both TCA form and other contributed odors. After many years bottling under screwcaps and glass stoppers, it is the comfort and confidence that every bottle we open is the same as the last one (and the one before that and the one before that…) that really feels good.
Also, as many others have stated: the wines age as we expect wines to age, though with fresher fruit expression. And, they stay better longer once opened. These are all things we love.
Peter Rosback
Sineann (ITB)
A lot of folks are replying with screw cap vs cork. What about the more advanced synthetic (co-extruded, not solid) corks? Both synthetic cork and screw caps involve synthetic materials, so I find it odd that one would be unwelcome while the other is preferred. Is that changing? If not, why not?
Our industry here in Oregon trialed the synthetic “corks”. Universally, the wines prematurely oxidized. I’m told the best (Nomacorc) is about an 8 year proposition.
I won’t even go into the attempt of trying to emulate a cork with plastic…
Peter Rosback
Sineann (ITB)
Exactly. Synthetic corks failed. Why bother pursuing pretend corks, which necessitate a cork screw, when a screw cap is (fairly) proven and much more customer friendly?
There is little doubt of the efficacy of the screwed closure, however it is not sexy nor will it ever be sexy.
Exactly! The emotional( pull of cork) has to be overcome. I personally don’t care how bottle is opened, as long as what’s in bottle is Good!
If we all acted as conscientious consumers rather than fetishists, the sexiness of the closure would be irrelevant.
Nomacorc is what I am currently considering - either their Select series or the Bio 2. I am curious to talk with someone who has experience with these closures, if you know anyone.
Can’t help you with Nomacorc in their new configurations. Coatings to resist oxygen transmission for plastics are an evolving industry so maybe you will have some luck.
Since the plastic corks are such a good seal, I wonder why they have exhibited such oxidative results. I used to design plastic parts and understand that all plastics with elastic properties (like those used for synthetic corks) have volatile organic compounds as part of their make-up. Do those as they out-gas cause some enzymatic reaction?
I always love how the Nomacorc reminds me of a cigarette butt - that outer shell with the foamy interior…
Peter Rosback
Sineann (ITB)
Parliament baby.
Peter, are you happy with how your wines are aging under glass stoppers? From an aesthetic standpoint, I do think glass stoppers do a nice job of replacing cork. I’ve wondered how they hold up for aging.
Matt,
The glass stoppers: better than cork, not as good as the tin-lined screwcaps.
I was talking with (what I consider) the best winery in NZ the other day and we both felt that the best closure was the one that protects the wine for the longest time, and that, right now, is the tin-lined screwcap. I know there are now controlled oxidation screwcaps and they may be a great choice for some, many even. My strong inclination is to package wine in a manner that keeps the wine as good as it can be for as long as possible.
Peter Rosback
Sineann (ITB)
It’s really interesting to hear from producers and my bias in favor of screwcaps is increasing!
Thank You to all the winemakers who took the time to provide some very interesting insight to this topic. I for one, loved the professionals opinion. Me personally, hope all the wineries I love and purchase from take a second look at what seems to work the best at preserving what really matter, what is IN the bottle!